These are fun machines. I hope you keep it going.

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

Awesome.. Glad the video helped.

Oh it did just wrapped it up today! Thanks! !

Awesome, I'm glad you attempted it.

Awesome. Glad you're back up and going.

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.

Yeah, hopefully it helps.

+W01191 ADM There is more than likely just some debris holding open the float needle.

Float/Needle/seat not sealing.

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful.

Ben Champoux I can't really remember off the top of my head. Besides the oil injection line the others just hook up and vent below the motor. They aren't critical.

+John Tsarnas The compression on your engine is more than likely getting low. To make the choke system work, you can't give it any throttle. Once it fires you can give it gas. So start it without touching the thumb throttle and see if that makes a difference.

I believe that is the stock Polaris rack.

Just wire it to the headlight wires.

Thanks for the heads up. Sounds like you've done your fair share.

Yeah, owning a shop in a small town will teach you a lot. Love the vids. If I could have found some help with your knowledge, I might have kept it going. It is just hard doing everything yourself, especially after a few years when you are well established.

+Chance Dayton Sorry, I can't recall off the top of my head as I work on so many different machines. Some connect to the back of the carb and others to the intake area of the engine.

+john tsarnas Severe overflooding causes this.

One from the side next to the choke fitting and the one at the air breather end are supposed to connect together at a tee then has a 1 way flow fitting. The 3rd is under carb bowl and is just a overflow routed downward.

If any of the air vents are leaking gas generally the float/needle isn't seating. This will cause the fuel level to rise too high or never stop flowing and gas to leak out.

The throttle slide has locating pins so it really only goes in 1 way. It shouldn't be excessively difficult to screw on the top cap. You should feel smooth movement of the throttle slide while operating the thumb throttle. I would pull the spark plug, open the thumb throttle all the way(choke off) and crank it over a few times. This will clear any excessive fuel. Clean/reinstall the spark plug and then give it a try to start.

Thank you allot man. I was having issues with the carburetor flooding and I finally figured out why I was having so many issues. My throttle cable wire was coming apart and getting caught up. Ordered me a new one. Should be in on Friday. I'll keep you updated! Thank you for the response and the video

+Reverend_Toast Carb cleaner, which is just Acetone is the best and quickest thing to dissolve old gas.

+John Tsarnas Too much fuel so the engine is flooded and the addition of starter fluid will just make the flooding worse. You need to de-flood the engine by pulling the plug, and use a lighter to burn off the excess fuel out of the plug, then with the choke off and the throttle held wide open(still no plug in motor) spin the engine over a few times. Then replace the plug and she should start.

Reading below , looks like that "air vent line " is called: "overflow drain". You mentioned it is for extreme angles, however mine is on a flat area inside the garage. Why is it overflowing? what should I do?

Herly Sarmiento The needle isn't sealing. This can be from sticking floats or a needle that is sticking in the seat housing. It can also be from the miss adjusted needle lever or debris from the gas tank holding it open.

Adjusting the idle speed is simple with the screw attached to the flexible extension on the side of the carb. If the engine bogs under load, it is generally either a fouled spark plug or worn piston rings. So put a new plug in or clean the old one(vid on my channel) and if this doesn't fix it, do a compression test.

I adjusted the idle screw. But i havent gotten the rings yet. And the spark plug is brand new. And compression is fine

+Mark Paez Jr Yes, the carb needs cleaning.

I do so many different models, I can't recall the exact location for the oil hook up. Some hook on the carb and some hook between the carb and engine in the intake boot/manifold.

thanks it sounds like it doesn't matter a whole lot then as long as it's getting the oil pulled into the manifold

If you're ensure, you can always just premix the gas oil in the gas tank and pinch off the oil inject line.

It screws out out of the carb with the bolt. Then there will be a spring and plunger that goes into the carb. That will just pull straight out after the bolt is unscrewed.

@@sixtyfiveford the spring and plunger isnt sliding out. I didn't know if there was something else that was needed to allow it to come free. Im lost at this point. Thanks.

@@ericoliver6802 I assume you have the nut completely out and its dangling by the cable? Spray penetrating oil into the hole and wait.

You have an air lock. Put your mouth/hand over the gas tank(cap off) and blow to pressurize the tank. This will force fuel into the carb.

sixtyfiveford ok kool I will do that. (I haven't had time to mess with it ) Thank you!

+zsamuco10 Test for spark.

+W01191 ADM Yeah, they can get flooded pretty easily. Along with flooding you can foul a spark plug. To clear a flooded condition, pull the spark plug and crank the engine a few times(throttle open no choke) and then you can clean the fouled plug kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mr-nhrKTyqnFhY0.html

+sixtyfiveford great video. Is this mikuni carb the same as what is used on the polaris 400 2 stroke engines.....it looks almost the same. I would suspect that only jet size and settings would be what the difference between the usage on one size engine and another.

Roger Bradshaw Thanks for watching.

Go to rockymountainatvmc.com and look up your machine. Then go to amzn.to/34HFVae and enter your machine and see if you can find one.

Any 2 stoke or sometimes called 2 cycle oil. Don't use motor oil(like 5w30, 10w40 ect) Here's the good Polaris Synthetic stuff amzn.to/4bZK7Tm they call for. A gallon lasts for a long time. The 250 Polaris uses a ration of 40:1 or 3.2oz of oil to 1 gallon of gas and mixes it for you from this tank. Just add this to the front tank and go. If I recall you only have to fill the front tank after you've burned 4-5 gas tanks full.

Thank You so much I appreciate you replay n help me 🙏🏻

I generally slowly work it in with gravity. So fill the reservoir and loosen a bleed screw by the wheel. Let it sit and occasionally slowly squeeze the back lever and slowly release. This should allow the fluid to start flowing. You can also loosen the brake like at the reservoir to help the fluid flow faster into the master cylinder.

Sounds like your throttle slide is hanging up make so it doesn't drop low enough. This could be a cable issue or a physical obstruction.

sixtyfiveford Thank you so much I will concentrate on this portion of carb , I'll let you know the out come … Thanks again ! Awesome video .

sixtyfiveford Also I have a different question I bought this bike from a friend and he had it park for about 6-7 years without running. Reverse doesn't work at all is that a major issue ? The shifter when in the back position the bike bogs down a little but doesn't move at all. Thanks for your time !

It takes a little bit of time to remove the gearbox but it is very basic once you open it up. I just sounds like something simple is binding. It is probably something very inexpensive it just takes hours to get to it.

+1982pantro Play with the key switch and the kill switch as they could be killing spark.

+sixtyfiveford hi,thanks for yiur reply,i noticed that when you turn on the ignition the dash light go off sometimes,i have to turn it with some force then they stay on,also where is the kill switch located?

+sixtyfiveford i removed the black wire "killswitch "and started right up" it stoped about a minute later and it was leaking a lot of gas on the clear hose nextto carburater i think its an overflow hose. what does it mean? cdi? new carb kit?

You have 2 kill switches: one on the handle bar and the key. Either will kill the motor. If you're leaking gas your float/needle seat are leaking and you need to clean the carb.

I cleaned the carb and i javent seen any leaks so problem solved. But what remains is that when i put the wire back ont he cdi it doesnt even start. But it does when i unplug it,but dies after a lil while i have a new coil on the way but i dont know what else to order. What could it be. It only starts when i pull the cord not with the electric. I cant pin point the problem. By the way thanks again for helping me before with my polaris 250trailblazer you i did everything in your video on cleaning carb and replaced the gas hoses and new filter and haven't had a problem since.

+Ed Friesen I believe it was a 8mm(same as 5/16")

+sixtyfiveford thanks man. Great video by the way.

+1982pantro Fuel/fumes could be loading up in the exhaust after sitting while hot.

+sixtyfiveford thanks

+sixtyfiveford hey buddy its me again. i installed the new CDI and new coil on my 2001 polaris trailboss 325 2x4 and still no fire i disconected the black wire from the new cdi and started but died few seconds later. im going crazy there are no poched wires anywhere the atv is in very good condition. also i cant find anything on the web to show me where the gas lines to the carburetor are supposed to go. i just want to make sure yhey are all connected well.sounds like a gas issue to me.canyou please show me how the carb gas lines are installed.thank you very much for all of your help.

It seams you have at least 2 issues. The first is your kill switch is killing the spark. But you're removing the black wire will bypass that. So you're left with fuel delivery or compression issues. If you can't get it to restart with a "LITTLE" starting fluid after it dies you need to check the compression. A cold engine will have higher compression than a motor that is even slightly warmed up so sometimes they will start but not continue to run.

+sixtyfiveford on the carburetor,on the side where the idle screw is,there are two pivots where you connect the gas hose, they are close almost on top of each other, i have the hose conected to the top.is that the right place? ?

allan cooney I'm not sure... The rebuild process will be the same for both as the only difference should be a 30mm bore vs a 32mm bore.

+Randy Osborn OK. Never mind. Mine was so massively stuck that I had to pull on it to the point I thought I was going to break it. (No wonder my bike didn't run right) Now, on to the cleaning...

+Randy Osborn I'm glad you got it freed.

+sixtyfiveford Thanks man! Great vid. Took me about 2 hrs. She started 3rd pull. Running great. Wont let gas set in it next winter. Ha! Next project gonna replace or rebuild the rear (foot) brake master cylinder. I own 3 popos and none of the foot brakes work?

+1982pantro You're fuel filter is more than likely clogged. It sounds like it's limiting the fuel flow, so though fuel can flow into the carb it can't keep up with the demand of the engine.

thank you very very much buddy,i just bought it for 400 dlars and i was afraid i was going to spend more on the top end,ive been reading alot of blogs and some people said they were having the same problem and had to do a new top end,the local shop here in az is very expensive because they are the only ones around where i live,and thanks to your carburetor cleaning vid i was able to do mine. i just placed my order on ebay for a new filter,the one on the quad looks old and dried,i didnt know such a small thing can stop the machine from running. one more thing if it came down to having my top end done what do you thing ill be looking at price wise? thank you very much for taking the time.

I did the top end myself last year in an 01 for around $30. All you generally need is new piston rings.

thank you,illwait a couple of days until filter arrives,I'll plug it in and see hoe it goes. you have a new loyal subscriber. I'll keep you updated man,thanks.

Generally a top end that has low compression will start when cold but quickly die within minutes and not restart until completely cold hours later.

Craig Spears It should unscrew with the bolt.

Decompress your choke first should come right out.

Yes. But it injects the oil separately through a tank mounted on the front vs mixing the gas oil yourself. However if you don't trust the oil injection system you can mix it yourself and add gas/oil 2 stroke mix to the main fuel tank

dorian james They're actually very reliable machines with few problems. With all the work you've done, someone has used it hard.....

sixtyfiveford Yeah man I did a compression test this morning, and its at 90 again. I just rebuilt the top end under a year ago. This bike is going to ATV heaven

That sucks.

Did you replace the coil and cdi box that the the problem with mine when I got no spark start with the coil

Fuel line? connects to the fuel inlet on the side of the carb.

What about little black hose on the bottom...that has a clip to it? small black hose?

Right hand side?

It is an overflow drain. If the fuel level gets to high from the atv being at an extreme angle or something it drains excess fuel out this hose onto the ground. It's not really important. The other misc lines are vents for the carb bowl.

Thank You..It all work out run like pussy cat.!!!

Miguel Cervantes These are fixed jet and you really can't adjust them(only very fine virtually unnoticeable adjustments). First: These are notorious from foul running due to low engine compression and running poorly due to fouled spark plugs. If it ran great and you just let it sit for a long time then the carb could be the issue. If it slowly developed this issue then it is likely compression related. If it is hard to start, the air passages I show at the mouth of the carb are dirty and or the main jet. If it sputters and bogs as you try to accelerate the main jet is dirty. If it won't idle then the idle circuit/jet is dirty. There are a lot of tiny passages that even I miss once in a while an have to take a carb back apart.

Already. Clean the carb 4 times. I been messing with the air screw I did turn on. But it turn off again it's hard to turn on again when it was on u hear a knocking sounds I took the cilinder offf and on the piston has little play I don't know if that's the way it's suppose to be like dat I haven't check the compression yet don't know how to do dat this is my number call me plz 7135303920 so I can explain u better

If you've cleaned it 4 times it should be clean. Diagnosing over the phone/internet is hard and virtually impossible. Knocking is not good nor is piston play. It is more than likely piston slap and worn rings. I show basic piston ring replacing here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mdB7pdipsLiYgXk.html

The Doors?

@@sixtyfiveford , I see a broken garage door spring you are using as a paper weight

@@jruda60 oh that. I don't do doors for a living, just as part time for friends and family.