Hey there! When useing this system, maybe you could've mentioned "the spot on the wall" in this video. Ofcourse , I know it really vary from table to table, and if it even is a spot on the wall you could follow! :)

Why high left? You say it again and again but you did not explain why.

@@marcooilman8360 Because thats the spin you need to get from those reference points to each diamond. There is no greater explanation.

Brilliant

high left in your examples yes, running english would be better

Same though. Practice night!

That is awesome!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you a lot buddy!

You're very welcome!

Thanks Mike!

You're very welcome John!

Thank you!

me.

it was probably some one who don't want pool players to give all the secrets away

You're very welcome :)

Hi there. Thanks for your comment. This video is not about bank shots, but how the cueball path can be changed when hitting a rail. Through spin transfer this can be adapted to bank shots. Maybe there are some parts in it that will help you to understand bank shots more: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nqyVmKae1JbNnIE.html

You can't consistently use that. It works great on your table at home but if you go to a bar or pool hall you don't have time to find it for each and every table.

@@seanwood4032 If I'm playing an unfamiliar table, I'll always hit a few bank shots to test cloth and rails. As a part of this, I use what you call reference line one from at least two corners. Once I establish the "error", if there is one, I know where to put my spot on the wall. I personally find this faster, easier and more accurate than trying to maintain the constant angle of splitting the difference. However, there are circumstances when there is no easy way to put a spot on the wall, so it's good to have both methods in your bag. Pretty much a personal choice as to which you pull out first (they both work). :)

@Tixe 100 Thanks bro,I took it as my inspiration. Have a nice pool carrier ahead!

That's because of the adjustment I had to made because of this particular table. But usally it's indeed just aiming towards the diamond and not hitting the rail in front of the diamond.

@@Sharivari Thanks for the reply Shari! I used your diagrams to duplicate the system using the online pool table drawer you so generously provided. Very helpful. You are one smart guy! I wanted to print out copies to give to a friend. If I want to be more exact I guess I'll have to just figure out where the actual contact points are for the table we usually play on (a Valley bar box) since all tables are different. BTW - I tried this system yesterday and it works great! Thanks! Just curious, were you using the same 1" adjustment for all of your shots?

@@rawhideleather Yes indeed, I adjusted the same for all of my shots. And sorry for latre reply, I was a little busy :)

Indeed " spot on the wall " is much easier!

Spot on the wall is easy, but it comes at the cost of being unreliable. It's not always possible to pick a spot on the wall due to people or other obstructions. And many tournaments are held in halls where there just isn't anything good to use as a reference. The distance from your reference to the table plays an important part in accuracy as well. So moving between different rooms can produce different results. All-in-all, you should use whatever tools you practice with. But understand that spot-on-the-wall does have its limitations. Personally, I use both. I use one to double check the other.

Hi Andrea. This means that the object ball has to be in this area. When the cueball hits the third rail it can reach the places in this area. A little more to the long rail and short rail is possible, but let's say this is the marked area is an "easily reachable area".

@@Sharivari Great, thanks for the clarification .

Sharivari Hi, great explanation. Please know that the cueball can also lie far outside of those areas depending on how the table is running. To make the proper adjustment, if you know approximately where the cueball will hit the 3rd rail, go from that diamond through where a ghost ball to cut your object ball would be. Where that line continues to pass through a diamond on the object ball side of the table, add it to your first rail hit point. Example: If the object ball is 1.5 diamonds up rail (or 1.8 or 1.3, wherever the ghost ball would be). If your 1st rail hit point were the 2 diamond, to now cut the objectball at the 1.5 diamond, add the 1.8 (distance to the ghost ball) to your original hit point, so 2 + 1.8 = 3.8. 3.8 now becomes your orignal hit point on the 1st rail. You can also make adjustments exactly how you did in the video for the cueball except you also would now need to do it the same way for the object ball from that 3rd rail hit point. So 1/2 of the parallel for the cueball adjustment. then add half of the parallel distance from your objectball to the 3rd rail hit spot. I make these shots and hits fairly frequently, even from near the middle of the table

No, because the ratio is the same.

Pros eyes are better than the normal player and many play by rote. However, there are mathematical diamond systems. The math can be negated using simple spot on the wall and the method shown in the video. In many instances, where the math fails because of how the table is running, spot on the wall can be adjusted more easily. In this video, the way the math works for a 3 rail kick is: On the cueball side of the table the diamonds (including where a diamond would be on the side pocket) are numbered in half diamonds. The pocket the cueball ii is numbered 5, the diamond to the right of it (from the viewers perspective) number 4.5, next 4, then 3.5 and so on... On the object ball side of the table, the object ball is at diamond 8 and diamonds on that side of the table are numbered in whole numbers: The object ball is at 8. The second position he put the object ball is at 7, then 6 and 5 and so on. Every table runs different and this table ran a little slow, but the math is: Cue ball diamond - object ball diamond = X (the spot you should hit on the rail). This works well in billiards but not in pool. Pool tables run slower because they aren't heated and are generally dirty. A brand new felted table may run close to this until it settles. So to figure out how the table you are on runs, do exactly what Sharivari did in the video. He saw that the table ran slow so adjusted down rail 1" inch. Mathematically, the distance between each diamond can be easily divided in 10ths. So the distance halfway between diamonds would be .5 of a diamond. In Sharivari's case he aimed at almost the 2 diamond. 5 (the line the cue ball is on) - 2 (the hit point on the first rail) = 3. So this table if it ran true, would be running at what I call a 3. What ever line your cue ball is on, simply subtract 3 from it and it then gives you the proper first rail hit point to return to the object ball pocket. In Sharivari's case, he had to hit at diamond 1.8. So the formula to find out how the table is running is 5 - X = 1.8, or X = 1.8 - 5 = 3.2. So this table is running at 3.2. Whatever line your cueball is on, simply subtract 3.2 from it and it gives you the exact hit point on the 1st rail. (There are 3 things to note: A) to determine what line your cueball is on -because it gets harder as the cueball is out near the center of the table, always line your cueball up with the 2 diamond on the object ball side of the table. The diamond it passes through the cueball to on the cueball side of the table is the diamond (or line) you are on (for 3 rail kicks it doesn't have to be super accurate diamond 5 or 4.5 or 4 etc. is fine. No need to go 4.8 or anything, but you can. Math: 4.8-3.2 = 1.6 (should be the contact point on the first rail). B) the cueball diamonds change to the right of the cueball along the short rail. Instead of going by 1/2 diamonds, they begin going by whole numbers so 6, 7 and 8. C) the reason you don't need to be as detailed like 4.8 is because you can simply make the adjustment from the closest diamond to the cueball by the method Sharivari showed. Making a parallel line from the closest diamond over the cueball and then taking 1/2 the distance from the cueball to that diamond you originally used. As you can see, the math can get quite convoluted. Spot on the wall or the method Sharivari showed keeps it simple. K.I.S.S.