Brilliant Mark, thanks. To give the rest of us a chance you should use the controller one handed next meeting.

Like the setup videos, keep up the good work, most informative for sure.

Really helpful man! Great stuff!

Interesting and timely about the chassis flex for the outdoor car makes sense how you explained it and sheds some light to why F1 is banging on about it at the moment 👍👍👍👍👍👍

Great video as always! Very similar set up to my TT02 👍🏻

Nice one, valued information.

Mark I want to give you a huge Thank You for this video. I recently rebuilt and updated my tt01 to run at our local track in the VTA class and was fighting an oversteer problem. I set mine up exactly as your setup for a starting point, and now the car is perfect i bly have to do a couple minor changes to it now to run it on carpet and then change my t back for asphalt. Thank you so much for your tips

I was playing around with the diffs on my TT-02 (pretty much identical when it comes to setup as far as I can see, still need to get an upper deck for racing on carpet) and I read a really good way to not quite lock your front diff. You get Tamiya Differential putty (which is designed for diffs so won't break any rules against using non diff stuff in your diff), you stick a 2cm bit to each of the bigger gears then squeeze it all together. this gives a really nice firm diff but with just a little give! Also you get loads of Diff putty for about 15 quid :) Thanks for the tips on tires though, need to order some of those!

very good baseline setup. similar setups on my 1/8th scale on road

Super helpful, thank you for sharing

Nice tamiya AW G. tip. Thank you.

excellent vid. What pistons are you using? and where can the longer hexes be had? Cheers.

Great video.

Valuable info, thanks! I'm just trying to get a stock class setup for practice indoor too. I've got an M-05 pretty ,much set up now for just getting the track time hours in and improving. I'm loving it, total noob at track work but it's great and I love the cheap aspect of these sort of simple setup.

Thank you for this

Hi PopalongRC, any chance you could do this type of set up video Les for the euro truck and team associated buggy’s you race please?? This video really helped me racing indoors on carpet. Cheers and keep up the good work lads 👌🏻

Awesome🤘y'all have a badass day🤘🍻🤘

Just got into touring cars so massive thanks for the videos and advice worlds apart from buggys. Out of interest what pistons do you guys run in the shocks? Just about to build a set.

Great video guys would love you to do a video about tto2 rc cars 🚗 😀

Great stuff. I'm assuming this information will also apply to the TT02 chassis, or is that not the case?

Hi Again, a "Few" of questions if you please; When trying to use the wider rear wheel hex on my TT-01E, (with Euro Truck Wheels) there isn't enough thread for the wheel nut to go on completely. Am I doing something wrong or Is there a longer rear axle hub that I could use or do you just locktite the rear wheel nuts. Suggestions? Could you see any advantage to running the truck as a short wheelbase version? We run a parking lot track that usually has about a 80-100ft main straight and couple of TIGHT 180 degree turns and a mix of medium tight corners. Here's a link to the RCTech forum where "The Lap Factory" has it's race results, race day info and track layouts. Note my post at the bottom (pg 26) and reply on the next/last page. So far not many people seem to be following the "Euro Truck" rules and my stock geared (19/61) truck has been getting it's headlights sucked out by other trucks coming from behind down the main straight. "oh it's got stock motor and gearing" they say. Yeah, Right!!!! :-( BTW; They use Sugar Water (Root Beer) sprayed first thing in the AM as a traction aid and the temps these days are 80-90+ degrees F. Sunny So. Cal., eh Wooot! I'm using WD40 on the rear tires and it seems to work quite well. Your thoughts on WD40 vs SXT 3.0. Which version of the SXT 3.0 do you use for outdoor tracks. Red cap/Max or "Light"? What motor are you running in the outdoor car? It looks like it's Brushed? I'm restricted to the Tamiya "Torque Tuned" 25T motor. I used the low voltage ie 4 volts/long slow (3-4hr) break-in method. After 3 practice days and about 600 laps, my brushes are finally fully seated on the Comm. I use Tri-Flow as my motor and bearing oil of choice. Is there a particular brand/type of bearings you prefer? Should I run the Tamiya 53673 3(?) degree (TT-01R?) rear toe in blocks on the Euro Truck? What are you using in your cars? Any thoughts on getting the (Must run) "pogo stick" stock shocks to work better/damping? I'm a pretty aggressive driver and my truck is a bounce myster in the long bumpy high speed sweepers. Should I run the rear shocks at the top inner mount holes or outer? How about the tie rods; inner mount holes or outer? My setup; At the moment I've got the front (shocks)s at the top outer and rears at the top inner. Tie rods in the outer position. I'm using 1 Mil in the front Dif at the moment and noticed it improved the low speed turn-in a bit. Rear Dif has just a light coating of the Kit Tamiya Gears on the gears. I use Powdered Graphite on the Pinion and Spur gears. I've got some Tamiya AW Grease coming to try as well. I'm using the MAN Cabover body shell with the Conventional Buggyra Fox Body waiting in the wings for paint and assembly. I'm aware that Cabover is too tall and heavy so I'd like to try the Bittydesign Cabover but need to get our race director to approve it. I'm getting severe Fr/Rr inner tread wear and would like to figure out a way to change/adjust the Camber. Your thoughts. Thanks in advance for your time, suggestions and consideration. cheers Boots Langley La Mesa, Ca

I’m very new to this and I just bought the TT-01E clk-gtr. I bought the same esc (hobby wing 1060) and I wanted to know if I can run LiPo with the stock motor ? I ask because I don’t see any 7.2V LiPo Thank you in advance!

Hi there. Do you shim the arms and/or use wheel spacers?

On the hpi Nissan body you say you gave it a light coat of paint because it is heavy. What is the finished weight of the body ? Cheers

How do you feel about Ball diff gearing? have you've tested it on your TT01s

Hi bud so on the tt01 for in doors you said a bout adding weights how much weight did you add plz 👍love the tt01s

I just started box stock racing and I did the grease mod to the front diff and guys come up to me asking what I did different. The front end can totally pull it out of a situation being almost locked..😅

If you were allowed would you lock out front diff? And is suspension low and stiff? I'm looking at going to RC kicks track day with a tt02 cheers..

Spring rates?🤔

thank you. would the setups work on the tt02? thanks

What shell is that for your outside car mate ? A scoob I’m guessing ?

Thanks so much for your insight. I'm running Euro Truck so I can't use most of your tips, but I also have built a 2nd TT-01E chassis as a back up and practice truck. With a body shell change, I can use your tips and run it as a touring car, so I look forward to a Team Tamiya with parts spares and swapability inhouse. Good luck with your future racing. "Break a leg"!!! ;-) cheers Boots Langley La Mesa, Ca PS; I've subscribed and "Liked" all the videos of yours I've seen. Good stuff!!!!!!!!!

Just out of interest, why do you put the blue springs on the front and yellow on the back? According to Yeah Racing the blue are medium and the yellow are soft, so I would have thought they would be the other way around on your car? Same question for the shock oil, you’ve put the more viscous in the front and less in the back? You clearly know your stuff so I’m interested to know