Good you enjoyed. Kurt

Your welcome. Kurt

Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it. Kurt

My pleasure! Kurt

Tear down is the easy part, just take your time and work through each stage. Then start cleaning and cleaning, then clean some more. Kurt

Great tear down video - thanks for posting. @ 9:00 mark - air injection that you removed ? Is that only on Euro engines? I recall USA/Calif models had them in earlier SC’s. My California 83 SC doesn’t have that.

So the 1980-83 911SC engines delivered to type USA were very different than the ROW models. In the USA The 3.0SC models were delivered with smaller port size heads and manifolds, KE-jetronic fuel injection using an O2 Sensor for fuel control, Double pull vacuum cans on the distributor also using a different advance curve, a Catalytic convertor and were 24 less horsepower. USA engines 180 Hp Versus ROW engines 204Hp. The ROW engines were more like the 1978-79 Engines that the USA received just without EGR valves. This was done so that the 911SC could meet the emissions standards of USA at the expense of drivability and performance. Emissions requirements are also why between 1980-85 Porsche did not ship the 930 models to the USA. Kurt

Appreciate the follow up and explaining the USA vs RoW versions.

Your Welcome Kurt

Thanks Kurt

Thanks, Glad your are enjoying the content Kurt

I hear you there... Kurt

Glad you liked it! Kurt

It happens more than you think. Thanks Kurt

Dealers and” Specialists “ No doubt the oil was still on the bill though

Thanks glad you enjoy our videos Kurt

Glad you are enjoying the video. When it comes to pricing it is really hard to put an exact number on it because every engine is different and every expectation is different. A general range for an engine like this could be $18K to $28K but it just depends on what happens. When is comes to transaxles they can also range greatly in price between $3.5K to $7K depending on what they need. Kurt

hope you enjoy it Kurt

Time check over everything. Kurt

Darren, Yes the turbo valve covers rarely give you any issues. Usually when they leak after a valve adjustment it can be due to the surface not being clean and dry enough. The other reason can be using a poor aftermarket gasket. They are a couple of different styles of gasket out there. I like to use the OEM one that has a raised rubber bead impregnated in the gasket. It seems to work the best. For the tightening torque I use 20 NM (about 15 FtLbs), and yes always new nuts and washers. Kurt

@@klassikats Kurt, I have the ones with the silicone or rubber bead on them, I’ll just make sure everything is really clean and dry, and I have new nylocs and washers so I should be good to go. 20 NM it is. Thanks for all your help! Cheers Darren Ps: I can’t wait to see more of the SC rebuild videos, that engine will be way better than new when you get done with it! I really like the shorts too. It’s a shame it was poorly maintained these engines are just amazing, pay me now or pay me later seems appropriate for that one. I believe it will be worth every penny when your done.

Then most likely you were just not clean enough then. Thanks and good luck Kurt

Glad you learned something Kurt

Lukas, No you cannot clean the engine by vapor blasting it while assembled. For one you will still get a bunch of media inside the engine. Two you would be very hard pressed to fit it into a vapor blast machine, Three the pieces you are blasting need to be degreased and completely dis-assembled before blasting. There are no short cuts with any of this work. I will spend about 40 hours cleaning an engine just to get it ready for machine work and measuring work. Hope that helps Kurt

Rockers yes, Rocker shafts not so much. With the shafts I will just have to clean them up and measure them. If they are under size all I can do is replace them. Rockers we can rebush and the faces did not look bad, once again still cleaning and measuring will know more once everything is cleaned. Kurt

Yes, its possible. I see the effects of different oils on engines, and there some oils out there that are definitely dirtier than others. Kurt

So the rocker shafts fitted by the factory will not have the rubber seals installed. That was a technical update that cam along later. As far as loosening the shafts is concerned you need to use a high quality Allen Wrench and they will feel really tight especially if they have not been loosened in a long time. The real trick here is a good fitting quality tool so that you do not round out the heads of the bolts. Kurt

We do about 50/50 on that one. We get a lot of just engine and transmissions and then sometimes we will get the complete vehicle. It just depends on the job and where someone is in the country. Sometimes we will get a hybrid where and owners pulls the engine and transmission and ships them to us then sends us the vehicle once everything is ready to go back together. I like having the complete vehicle at the end because it gives me a chance to look at other systems that can impact the performance of a component I just rebuilt. For example the front cooler system on a 911, The oil tank on a 911. These systems need to be cleaned and flushed before installing a rebuilt engine. The shifter bushing and gear shift assembly needs to be in good shape, new bushings installed and linkage correctly adjusted. Kurt

@@klassikats Thanks for the info Kurt. How far out are you scheduling for potential engine rebuilds?

Right now, we are about 8 weeks out. If you like, feel free to reach out directly to us at contact@klassikats.com thanks Kurt

Jason, The early Porsche 911 engines came in 2.0L, 2.2L, 2.4L, and an RS 2.8L race engine. There were no 2.6L production engines, although that's not to say that someone did not create one. As far as integrating the cambox into a complete head assembly, that only makes sense on a water-cooled application. In fact, Porsche did precisely that with the 996 Water-cooled engines. However, It would be tough to manufacture the cylinder head with all the cooling fins in a single casting for use in an air-cooled application. So much so that it just would not make sense to do so. Every engine I have ever seen that has neglected maintenance will build up sludge and debris. I have seen small block Chevys with so much sludge in the engine that on a big rev, all the oil ends up in the valve covers because it can't drain back to the oil sump. Yes, I have seen rocker and cam failures due to a plugged oil spray tube, but never a completely dry cam box. As far as the alternator is concerned, if the mechanic can't remember 3 wire colors and where they go, and what they do, then they should not be working on any car. I certainly would not want him or her working on anything I own. It is easy to sit back and judge or say that they should do this or that. But they didn't they did it the way they thought made the most sense at the time. The other thing to remember is this is 40-year-old technology. If you look at a new Porsche engine today it is nothing like this. All manufacturers evolve. As new materials become available and new manufacturing techniques help to bring costs down engine design becomes refined. In its day this was cutting-edge and was at the tip of the spear in production sports car engines. Thanks for watching Kurt

The cost of the steel, shipping and labor is way more than just buying the new part. Plus the plastic gets old and tends to want break anyways, so its better to just replace. Kurt

Support, A well held crankshaft can be lighter therefore more responsive. Kurt

I never recommend running an engine oil designed for diesel engines in a gasoline engine. Diesel oils have a very different additive package than gas oils. These additives can adversely affect the components in your engine, like bearings and seals. Diesel oils also have different molecular makeups, which can result in increased oil leaks. The detergents used in some diesel oils can also be corrosive to engine components that are not designed to be used with these oils. The moral of this story is to use an oil designed for the application you have. To this point, for about the last 10 years now, I have been using Porsche engine oils. These oils are designed not only for gasoline engines but specifically for Porsche air-cooled engines. Kurt

@klassikats T4 through T6 are SN rated as well for gasoline engines. It's higher in anti wear agents, and the T5 blend has a decent amount of moly. Many well-respected P car parts sites sell it with a Mahle OC 54 filter as a change kit. It's been one of the most widely used oils in the air-cooled 911s since the 80s. As a builder, other than owner neglect with lazy oil change intervals, have you seen specific issues related to use of Rotella 15W40?

Just because you can buy an oil change kit from an aftermarket supplier using Rotella does not mean that its right. The biggest issues that I see from people using Diesel oils over the years is oil leaks while in service. I would have to say the engines we do show so many signs of age and poor workmanship in the past that it is hard to attribute a failure to just one type of oil. When I looked at the T5 blend it did not carry the "SN" rating. In the end its up to you. Its your car and if you feel that this is the oil for you, then use it. You will be a better judge of its effect than I will as over time you can track oil consumption, leakage, and if you put enough time on the engine eventually you will be able to inspect wear internally. Kurt

No just doing the Porsche TSB up grades and keeping it stoke. Kurt

Thanks Kurt

When ever you are read Chuck Kurt

Not so much. Just a lot of parts to deal with... Kurt

Yes, I done one or two of these before. Kurt

Okay. Kurt