Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!

Sounds like you have all the right stuff to do a good job Kurt

You are welcome thanks for watching Kurt

Douglas, I will put weight in the front of the car to account for a low fuel amount. When you set up the alignment you want the car at its curb weight, meaning full tank of gas, all fluids topped off, spare tire, and tool kit installed. I wont usually weight the car for just a driver. The weight of a driver alone is pretty insignificant to the handling characteristics of the car. The only reason that I could see was if the driver was unusably heavy to a point that it affected the handling of the car. In that instance I could see weighting the drivers seat. The only issue with doing that is that if anyone else drives the car it will not handle the same for those individuals. Thanks for watching Kurt

Rod, Thanks for your comments but a couple of things you might want to consider. When it comes to doing corner weights that work needs to be done first not after an alignment. Checking corner weights is a diagnostic function as it will show you a bad spring/torsion bar as well as allowing you to fine tune the ride height. However, the alignment has to be re-done after any changes have been made to the ride heights or spring/torsion bar adjustments. The other issue is measuring off the center caps to set the strings. The track, (Width) is different on the front versus the rear axles on all 911 models. To get the strings parallel to vehicle you would need to know your offsets and be able to measure accurately to compensate for that difference. You will also have a hard time ascertaining the thrust angle, it would be very hard to measure if you base your strings on the wheel hub measurements. lastly the wheel hubs move ever so slightly when adjusting toe and camber. This means that your strings will start off not being parallel and hence result in an inaccurate measurement and adjustment. The Reason why you need to lock the brakes when doing an alignment is for the castor sweep. If the wheel is allowed to rotate even in the smallest amount it will give you a false castor reading and hence a bad adjustment. Ride heights are key to a vehicle driving and handling the way it was designed to. However sometimes ride heights need to be adjusted for certain applications and conditions. For example our own 911SC is set higher than a stock 911SC as we live in area that is on dirt roads and snow in the winter time. The car with a stock ride height lacks the ground clearance to operate in these conditions, hence the need to raise the car. The trick is when either raising or lowering a vehicle is keeping the suspension within it usable operating ranges. Going too high or too low is a problem that can result in a very poor handling vehicle. Kurt

@@klassikats I had the cars re checked at an alignment shop to see how close I was. Both an early 911 and a 1998 993. My settings were not stock but set up for Autocross, and the tires (Goodyear cantilever slicks) and the settings I got were within tolerance I always check before and after settings, and corner balance to get a baseline. I have a program on the computer for corner balancing. Both cars handle great. The early car was way off on corner balance The 993 was bump steering in the back, due to the kenematic toe being way off on one side. I have a very robust alignment platform, I bought from Rod Emory. which is so heavy it’s a Pain to set up. I had installed all new suspension on both cars, so I wasn’t worried about anything being bent. I follow the directions that Rich Walton at Jerry Woods’ shop gave me. I work off an alignment spec sheet, that gives the proper order for all adjustments. I have the drivers weight in the car, and the amount of fuel that I expect to have. The early car is set up low, but I have adjustable front spindles, with Fox racing shocks, and custom length triple adjustable Bilstien schocks in the rear, and of course a professional bump steer setup. Thanks for the feedback.

All the adjustments are done while the vehicle is sitting on its wheels. I you tried to jack the car up and make an adjustment nothing is going to be within spec because of the way the suspension moves. This is why we have to use slip plates under the wheels, to allow things to move while everything is under load. Thanks for watching

Rob, yes you are 100% correct the suspension set up is key to success in a race car. It is also one of the most over looked setups by amateur racers. Setting suspension heights is best done using corner scales if available and getting camber, castor and toe settings right for the track you are on. Tracking tire temps across the tire will help tell you how your suspension set up is working. You cannot easily use the center hubs to set your strings parallel to the chassis as you will need to take into account that the track sizes are different front to rear. To build you an adaptor for your longearce gauge I would need to know what size your hub cap hole is, Porsche uses to different sizes on there rims. If you are not using a Fuchs rim I would also need to know if there is a groove in the rim to hold the hub cap in as I use that same groove to hold the adaptor against the rim.

@@klassikats Thanks Kurt. I measured the 4 wheel hubs using a telescoping gauge and then a mic. I get measurements ranging from 65.98mm to 66.06mm. My guess is they are 66mm and I’m just seeing measurement variability. The wheels are all Fuchs. Let me know how you would like to proceed - through the comments or email. Thanks, Rob

I built those Tables Thanks Kurt

You dont ever want toe out on one of these cars. There is going to be no difference between the track and the street settings for toe in. Kurt

There is no subframe on a 911 Kurt

I have no idea???