Yes you are 100% correct, we cover that in our connecting rod rebuilding video. Unfortunately we have not posted it yet as it is still in the production phase. Thanks for watching Kurt

Rob, The "B" dimension is the internal dimension of what ever piece you are working with. For Example: The first dimension on that page labeled "B" is for the connecting rod little end without the bushing installed. The Size should be 25.00 /-0.00 +0.021 mm. The next dimension is for the outside of the rod end bushing, "W". That number is bigger than the Rod bore as the bushing is a press fit. Its dimension is 25.035 to 25.055mm this is so we will have an interference fit of at least .035 mm to a maximum of .055 mm. This is because the bushing is larger than the bore on the connecting rod. When we look at the next dimensions they are giving the operating clearance between the wrist pin and the bushing. The finished installed bushing I/D size should be 22.02 mm to 22.033 mm. Our wrist pin O/D will be 21.994 mm to 22.00 mm. This will give us a maximum running clearance of 0.039 mm and a minimum clearance of 0.020mm. The reason the bushing we measured 22.08 mm was discarded was because the maximum operating clearance was to big, (22.00 pin - 22.08 bushing = 0.08mm clearance), maximum usable clearance is 0.55 mm. hope that helps to explain it Kurt

@@klassikats Kurt, thanks for the explanation. I spent 20 minutes with the book out in front of me reading your explanation but I think I’ve got it. Reading these specs has always been a bit of a mystery for me so I really appreciate you taking the time. For the first time I feel confident in measuring all the components in my engine rebuild.

@@robhurley5258 glad I could help Kurt

All the machine shops I have ever been in have just used a hammer to knock out the rod bolts. Its is always good to check your rod sizes and check the weight difference between rods.

@@klassikats Thanks. I took them to the machine shop and they had to press them out. I had ruined the threads on one of the old bolts trying to hammer it out so didn't go any further. These were original rod bolts so maybe they were seized in there. Well got them out and the shop installed the new OEM bolts so will be putting the rods back on the crank this week and hopefully closing up the case on Saturday or Sunday!