Hi Todd. Great to see the car coming along. You ARE using the right oil. These engines use a flat tappet arrangement with big end bearings that require high viscosity ensure oil to ensure a long life. The oil should also (importantly) have a hi ZDDP (zinc) content to offer film strength to protect all those metal-on-metal components. Here in Australia on a popular 928 site, there have been legendary "discussions" about oil. The bottom line is 20W50 with hi zinc (ZDDP) levels (1000ppm++). The wrong oil and too low a viscosity (less than 15W50) will cause some wear and harm even after a short period and especially if engine is up to temp. German engines knew what they were doing when they stated the use of 20W50 oil in the owner's manual. As we say, RTFM Cheers Tony

Great video Todd, I just did mine, put it on 4 axle stands to keep her level, precharged the replacement filter ( they hold a fair bit of oil) and while she was up did the gearbox level as well. You have to use 20/50 oil as the book says and earlier comments reference flat tappets and using the correct grade is essential. Oil film shear between the moving parts is very bad news for these older engines and will lead to accelerated wear. Newer Porches are built to different tolerances/materials and also different emission controls which is where the 'synthetic' oils became the norm. I use VR-1 20/50 and it is great. I get mine from Opie oils (not plugging them but they always have it). keep it up I love your channel

Car sounds fantastic!

I'm using Millers 20W 50 for mine. So I think you're correct. 👍

I've been using 20w-50 mineral oil change ( whatever is on sale) every year in southern California I use RV ramps so no need for jacks. 1986 928S with almost 200k miles.

Hi Todd, some remarks on your oil filling: - better use two ramps of about 8 inch height. Or jack up the car so that you can easily go under it, and do it at the right hand side so that all oil is flowing to the oil tap Also much easier to remove the old and put the new oil filter - also better prefill the oil filter with oil. This prevents possible lack of oil at the bearings during the first start - it is not normal that your oil was black…it should be brownish. This could be related to a too rich mixture setting. How are your spark plugs looking? - as for the little filter at the oil fill : when there is brownish sludge with water, it means you always made short rides, not warming up the engine fully as it would do during long runs Also possible that your compression is not good. Did you measure the compression on each cylinder? I had that same problem with an engine with worn piston rings. btw : I am using Marly semi-synthetic oil 10W40 (contains graphite for lubricating the cams) since more than 10 years now. I find it strange that you are using mineral oil while Porsche advises semi-synthetic oil. That’s why a 928 only needs oil change every 26000 km (under normal circumstances) Nevertheless, I like the sound of your engine humming smoothly 😊

Nice! Sounds good. 👍

Valvoline 20/50 VR1 is defiantly the way to go. Ticks all the boxes and a the product is first class. It ensure that the correct oil (as per Porsche spec) is met. Getting hold of the correct oil (VR1) can turn put to be an issue but trust me, it is absolutely spot on. Have used it with great results for years (as opposed to the suggested Porsche synthetic oil at twice the price). it is first class product and has always outperformed my expectations.

Another great Video Todd, that oil was black as night, good to change it Along wiith the Mayonaise in filler filter which I hope is just condensations with winter just been, keep a close eye on this Oil filter I hand tighten with a little oil on on rubber seal its all it needs, who ever changed oil last on my car had it right as it was able to be removed by hand I chose 15w/50 for my first change, as was going into summer here, then change to 20w/50 for winter but oil still looks like new so feeling a little reluctant Took exactly 8lt, first time ever I carefully measured a fill Car sounding great, always nice to have little differences for good with each fiddle on the car

Accumulation of condensation Todd, I've owned my 928S for 32 years and its exactly the same as mine, do a run and it'll dissipate .

there are some plastic cans that have 10l of capacity. that have a hole and the shape of a "funnel". I use one of those but I use a real funnel in the hole, when i finnish i lift the real funnel, put the plug in the can, and i don't spill oil in the floor. It has two plugs to empty the oil. they are not good to keep the oil inside (not great for being stored with oil and hot days... don't ask me why) but makes life easier. Cost:20-25€ and you can find them online easily What i do on my car is put new oil (around a liter) without the drain plug, watch the oil as is falling and plug the drainplug when i see clear oil. is not a flush, but helps cleaning the botton of the pan. the fill the rest of the oil. I use every two oil changes an engine flush, it is around 20€ from xenum. you have to put it in the oil, let it run 10-20 minutes without revving, and change the oil normaly the residue can be condensation inside the engine i saw that in several cars, at first we thought the headgasket was gone, but the test show it was fine.

Engine sounds great. You should leave the fingerprints on the side of the car :)

I'm guessing about 4000 rpm.

I'd say you were at about 3500 rpm....🤔