Don’t forget to up your coil pack voltage, it will really get the iridiums firing. Cooler plugs would help too. I’ve got a 2.9 stroker kit in my 2.5L. Been a busy guy, just terrible with the video stuff. I’m glad someone else is getting to it.

Thanks for the video, was going to do that with my reman engine install!

Another great video! Learning so much from you. Thx

Thanks for the 2.5L love. :)

At WOT these engines run rich naturally based on the tune, so bigger throttle and bored intake and better injection spray pattern WILL gain you some power gains near the top end. Not real practical for daily 3k rpm shifts, but more power is more power! It’s also a great supporting mod to do when you add a header and get some bigger valves in it. Then you can really use that CFM rate throughout the powerband.

Your on the right track, don’t forget your TB spacer plate mod to buy. You can get the air raid brand or jeepers and creepers brand.

It is incredibly hard to tell. but it is the "correct" thing to do if you have a 4.0L throttle body

4:55 the valve Gap is what controls the air amount .. one of many ways around this ☝️ 👀 look in changing your Rocker arm ball bearing type with different clearance 1.5 1.6 it changes the valve clearance . FYI

Honestly, when I started watching this I thought it was going to be you showing your intake pictures of a family reunion or a vacation video on a cruise ship.

So did this make a difference?

Thank you! You are the first, and as far as all the clips I've seen, the only one to explain the relationship between the TB and the intake valves. SO to make sure I understand, because I'm kinda slow: by installing the 4.0 TB, and porting the intake manifold to match, while not increasing air volume, except at full throttle, we are decreasing air-flow-resistance? Allowing the four-squirreled beast to breathe better. Correct?

I assume when you dremel the bore of you manifold theres significant aluminum shavings that fall into the manifold. How did you go about cleaning the shavings out? Did you use vacuums? Shoot compressed air into it?

I'm new to your channel and was wondering, could you add a turbo to the 2.5l?

So the gains with a 4.0 tb, spacer, and ported manifold all together total 24hp, but is that by themselves, or does that include other mods like 12hole injectors, header and full exhaust? What could one expect by running EVERYTHING? Injectors, header and exhaust, tb, spacer, ported manifold, intake, 180* thermostat, and anything else I'm forgetting.

did this make a noticable difference, as you said a simple install made no difference?

Computer is going to hold back the motor. 1.6 rocker arms are the best bang for the dollar.

Hey what year is you Jeep??

I see that these improvements has fallen off, The power commander 3, it seems a limited amount of a computer modification are not available... or is there? Now in the end of 2021

On the subject of air needed by an engine there is a simple mathematical equation at least for older vehicles that manufacturers used to use to determine the CFM requirement of the engine to put the correct size carburetor on a specific application CFM stands for cubic feet per minute it's basically how much air can flow through something like a throttle body or carburetor the math ematic equation that I'll put on here is for a street engine only needing an 85% efficiency rating I'll use your Jeep engine as an example to show you what the CFM requirements are for your engine first you start with how many cubic inches the engine is yours translates to 150 cubic inches then times that by the red line of the engine or the maximum rpm operational which on your engine is 5550 RPM times that by 85% divide it by 3 4 5 6 it should look like this 150x5550x85%/3456=204.75 CFM requirement. And on a full racing engine you would replace 85% with 110% efficiency rating what I like to do on my performance Street engine which means it has a mild cam upgraded intake and exhaust you want to hit it somewhere in the middle between 85% and 110% to get a good CFM flow for your throttle weatherby carburetor or throttle body at 234.75. This is a approximate guideline not an exact equation meaning there are other factors that come into play like /stroke /compression ratio etc but you are correct in the fact that no matter how big you put of a throttle body and or intake manifold the air still has to make its way past the intake valve and into the cylinder what would basically be happening on an old engine is you would be doing what's called over carburetion by putting too big of a carburetor on the vehicle will cause it to bog because it can't use all the air it's receiving but the reason you don't notice much of a difference is because the computer system will compensate and adjust your fuel and air mixture accordingly so the only real way to get more air into your engine and make use of a larger throttle body would be to put a larger lift and longer duration camshaft along with if available larger valves in addition porting and polishing the cylinder head you would definitely notice a horsepower gain after all of that. Then of course there's always a turbocharger kit lol the only way to get a lot of horsepower out of that engine but your gas mileage will suffer greatly LOL not to mention adding more moving parts to your drivetrain.

you mean grinding out by hand, NOT boring totally different process