Precise Protection: The Wild Country Zero Friends | Climbing Daily Ep.1721

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EpicTV Climbing Daily

EpicTV Climbing Daily

Күн бұрын

Matt takes out the brand new Wild Country Zero Friends For A Test Run On A Classic Crack Climbing Crag In Chamonix...Get ready for some exposure...
Find out more detail about the Wild Country Zero Friends: bit.ly/2F1JP3A
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Precise Protection: The Wild Country Zero Friends | Climbing Daily Ep.1721

Пікірлер: 115
@WideBoyz
@WideBoyz 3 жыл бұрын
I used these alot in yosemite on my 2019 trip and found them to be pretty bloody good, especially in the smaller sizes. I did a bunch of solo aiding on that trip and actually had some Totem Basics rip on me when i stood up on them. I then used the WC equivalent in the same place and it held. This scenario probably happened about 4 times to me on the same route. Now...I understand that i am sponsored by WC, so it's not like I'm going to write anything negative here, however if i thought they were rubbish i just wouldn't write anything at all. I was honestly impressed and impressed that it trumped a cam (the totem basic), which I have been using reliably for years. Just thought I'd chip in for folks that are interested. Nice one, Pete. P.s. Hope you're doing well Matt.
@markhalsall2250
@markhalsall2250 3 жыл бұрын
Where's the big whipper on the baby red cam? Not tested them properly
@robertosullivan9027
@robertosullivan9027 3 жыл бұрын
Don’t watch this for any insight on how to place cams! Loads of dodgy cam placements and good looking nut placements that were ignored for a tipped out cam? And why isn’t he extending the slings???
@JohnGM96
@JohnGM96 3 жыл бұрын
Nah, if you dont take a whip on them you haven't really tested them ...
@koltface
@koltface 3 жыл бұрын
My favorite thing about smaller cams is being able to place them so they don't get in the way of the good holds and jams. Also, Zero Friends reminds me of what Siri says when you ask what zero divided by zero is. It's a good laugh.
@mariamueller1946
@mariamueller1946 2 жыл бұрын
Haha just asked her this. Thanks for the laugh Kolton and Siri!
@DerelictChad
@DerelictChad 3 жыл бұрын
8:02 wow thats tipped out
@heli400
@heli400 3 жыл бұрын
ya, I would've place it lower where it was narrower
@isaacewing1013
@isaacewing1013 3 жыл бұрын
I saw that and winced😬
@YannCamusBlissClimbing
@YannCamusBlissClimbing 3 жыл бұрын
Creating bad rope drag at 7:02, bad cam placement at 7:59 and backclip at 8:09... I still like the video and editing! THANKS!
@stevensalgan5495
@stevensalgan5495 2 жыл бұрын
Homie was gripped
@doormat321
@doormat321 3 жыл бұрын
What is a "thin head angle"? I work in the climbing industry and I think it's important to communicate correct information to the public. Honestly Matt seems like a very competent climber but in my eyes doesn't know that much about trad gear. Instead of reading off of a spec sheet, I think some comparison to the features of other brands of small cams would be valuable. I very much don't mean to be rude but this just feels like paid product placement and doesn't say anymore about the cams than I could learn on the Wild Country website.
@darkstepik
@darkstepik 3 жыл бұрын
welcome to epicTV climbing daily
@SeraphinoII
@SeraphinoII 3 жыл бұрын
@@darkstepik You are a Sir. It couldn't have been said any better. Matt Is a far above average climber and a good guy. But the reviews in this channel are just consistently lacking of some deepness or actual opinions or real world knowledge.
@JasonOgasian
@JasonOgasian 3 жыл бұрын
Right on Matt. I for one would not want 200,000 subscribers critiquing my gear placements 😅
@adriansth
@adriansth 3 жыл бұрын
Who in the world hate thumb loops?
@eliothack7206
@eliothack7206 3 жыл бұрын
8:02, mega bomber would whip, Come on Matt really, I know you want to show off the kit, but make it safe!!
@CaldDesheft
@CaldDesheft 3 жыл бұрын
I’d love a comparison video between these and the new BD Z4 cams.
@ZOMGerms
@ZOMGerms 3 жыл бұрын
Isn't that even the same crag or even route where they did their last test on the new BD cams? could be interesting to hear some opinions on feelings with both.
@elonmusk452
@elonmusk452 3 жыл бұрын
Z4 camalots are great. Dual axel down to .3 will be a huge advantage over the friends.
@CJski
@CJski 3 жыл бұрын
@@elonmusk452 Idk specs look so similar that it probably just comes down to preference. Single axle has advantages too. What advantages did you have in mind?
@elonmusk452
@elonmusk452 3 жыл бұрын
Chet Szwejkowski dual axel have more range per cam, they are much easier to place, they are way more stable, and walk less. But beyond dual axel the z4 lobes and rigid flex trigger are quite nice. I’m personally not a huge fan of my single axel cams. Except totems. They are god
@CJski
@CJski 3 жыл бұрын
@@elonmusk452 Hmm. It looks like the zeros have a similar rigid flex technology with that cable cover. I wonder what totem does to make single axle work. I always heard single axles have more "holding power" and less range. Yet metolius master cams seem to have a huge range.
@MokoLime
@MokoLime 3 жыл бұрын
I would not use this as a guide to start Trad, sorry EpicTv I don't personally agree with how the cams are placed and clipped in. The cam should be the in the direction of a fall, meaning down. I noticed Matt plugged in his gear sideways increasing risk of the cam walking into the crack further or swing up increase the fall factor a bit more than needs to be, basically saying that it can be easily prevented. I would also clip a QD into the sling reduce the cam walking if you are not going to extend the sling. Just some preventative measures, that should become habitual no matter what can you're using. Cheers guys! Love your videos, always happy to talk climbing with this community and discuss ideas.
@TheAwbid
@TheAwbid 3 жыл бұрын
“Pure grace” 😂😂😂
@coryupton669
@coryupton669 Жыл бұрын
I feel like the girl that belayed him should have ask him the same question he did at the beginning of the video. 0:13 😆🤣😆 2:33 and 7:02 are the same clip of him placing a piece that clearly should have been extended. My god look at the rope dragging over that edge 😆🤣😆 "pure grace"
@TimKnoxFilms
@TimKnoxFilms 3 жыл бұрын
Did you climb that twice? Did not see Hugo in those drone shots :)
@xpadseyx
@xpadseyx 3 жыл бұрын
Looked like a fun route fore sure! I've been looking at these for a while as I have a set of the regular size Wild Country friends and I have liked them so far. I guess I have to save my pennies!
@antonyabegay425
@antonyabegay425 3 жыл бұрын
Looks like a blast!
@spavelt
@spavelt 3 жыл бұрын
Am I the only one who thinks that he should have extended most of his pieces?
@ryanc9432
@ryanc9432 3 жыл бұрын
The built in slings on those cams are useless. They're often too short. I think they give people a false sense that they have extended their pieces properly.
@coryupton669
@coryupton669 Жыл бұрын
^this guy gets it. I feel like the girl that belayed him should have ask him the same question he did at the beginning of the video.
@ZaneShami
@ZaneShami 5 ай бұрын
Crazy back clip at 8:15
@Cookie_Monster42
@Cookie_Monster42 3 жыл бұрын
I love Matt`s humour!
@luigibenignochiappero5589
@luigibenignochiappero5589 3 жыл бұрын
CONGRATS!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!! Best Wishes.
@markedwardsclimbing
@markedwardsclimbing 3 жыл бұрын
Just be aware of clipping a piece above a sharp ledge (as in the crux move on this route), the sharp edge will cut your rope during a fall, extend that piece to avoid this happening, preferably so the rope is clipped in below the sharp edge. Apart from that, I enjoyed the video.
@susanholl5994
@susanholl5994 3 жыл бұрын
So important! This part of the video made me cringe.
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 3 жыл бұрын
Agreed. It’s also one of the reasons why half ropes are great for trad climbing (because the second rope acts as a back up and because you have less sharp angles).
@artkingvie
@artkingvie 3 жыл бұрын
Hi Matt! What are those pants?
@JoshNeck
@JoshNeck 3 жыл бұрын
You definitely need to do a micro cam off the zeros vs the alien and there off sets vs the new black diamonds.
@bios546
@bios546 3 жыл бұрын
just what I needed
@kubachrzan2701
@kubachrzan2701 3 жыл бұрын
Hi why didnt you take some falls on them ?
@NOorah-oj8gt
@NOorah-oj8gt 11 ай бұрын
Wow that rope over a sharp edge?? That last can would probably break that flake...
@philbox4566
@philbox4566 3 жыл бұрын
Oh what? No hexes or trad draws. ;) Heh, seriously though, I would have liked to see a couple of those placements extended. And yeah, never place them near their fully open limit. These cams are part of the family of Alien clones. The inventor of Aliens showed remarkable fore sight. I was astounded when I was first shown a set and how flexible they were. Rushed out and bought as many as I could. Love em. Beautiful engineering Wild Country, I think you've improved on an already brilliant piece of climbing protection engineering.
@JasonOgasian
@JasonOgasian 3 жыл бұрын
Yer Gonna Diieeee!!! God I miss the Super Topo forum 😢
@Destort
@Destort 3 жыл бұрын
lol a lot a yall armchair climbers got some strong trad opinions. My man did not wear a helmet and back up his gear so yall can nitpick his (relatively decent) cam placement and extensions. I for one like to see Matt use the gear EpicTV is featuring rather than just talking about it in the studio.
@drstrangelove85
@drstrangelove85 3 жыл бұрын
Perhaps you should mention that the 0.1 has a holding power of 5kn, which is more for aid climbing and not for taking lead falls.
@beingaware8542
@beingaware8542 Жыл бұрын
Nice!!!!
@Inigo_0
@Inigo_0 10 ай бұрын
that placement @ 8:00 had me say no out loud. from what i understand, with microcams you want them to be engaged closer to 100% than not. that placement was almost 0%
@oldi6btm6t9d4
@oldi6btm6t9d4 3 жыл бұрын
Did matt do two laps on this route? one with camera man for close ups, and one without?
@andris788
@andris788 3 жыл бұрын
How do you take them off? Is the second climber collecting them doing top rope?
@smashbadger2460
@smashbadger2460 3 жыл бұрын
FYI the top 3 Zeros overlap the bottom 3 Friends!
@5upl1an
@5upl1an 3 жыл бұрын
Did Matt do the route twice for this video? Because I can't see the camera man on the drone shots.
@philippkummer5771
@philippkummer5771 3 жыл бұрын
can anyone explain to me the big advantage of micro cams instead of nuts? I have an full DMM nut set (with offsets) and don't see why i should need micro cams...
@alexwebber1790
@alexwebber1790 3 жыл бұрын
Parallel and/or horizontal cracks.
@itsyaboi77
@itsyaboi77 3 жыл бұрын
What is the reason to dislike thumb loops?
@pranavsharma5102
@pranavsharma5102 3 жыл бұрын
Nice video.....
@cillijed4291
@cillijed4291 3 жыл бұрын
matt testing evolv phantoms interesting
@Your_dads_account
@Your_dads_account 3 жыл бұрын
How are these fundamentally different from Metolius master cams?
@jeggings95
@jeggings95 3 жыл бұрын
Aren’t these just a copy of the fixe alien cam?
@jgrrv686
@jgrrv686 3 жыл бұрын
You gonna review those Evolv Phantoms Matt?
@vincentkrause7097
@vincentkrause7097 3 жыл бұрын
Two promos shot in ins Video.. win win
@Nothinglessthenbest
@Nothinglessthenbest 3 жыл бұрын
So trad question. Do you clip QDs to cams or use the racking carabiner??? I've heard both ways. In the vid, you hook directly to the cams.
@ryanc9432
@ryanc9432 3 жыл бұрын
Either way is fine. Depends on the extension that you want.
@marco_plebani
@marco_plebani 3 жыл бұрын
As said, either way. If you extend the cam sling with a quickdraw, clip the quickdraw in the sling and NOT in the carabiner that comes with the cam. I've rarely seen people clip carabiners on carabiners but it's bad practice: the carabiners can scratch each other, create dangerous leverage forces, and they double the chance of them unclipping by accident.
@heli400
@heli400 3 жыл бұрын
@@marco_plebani uhhh No! Never clip biner to biner, they will snap like twigs!
@heli400
@heli400 3 жыл бұрын
@@marco_plebani kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iceJrJWUntPPe30.html
@marco_plebani
@marco_plebani 3 жыл бұрын
@@heli400 exactly my point. Maybe not quite "like twigs" (the video you show is an extreme scenario with fall factors way above 2) but why using extra gear to create extra risk?
@grahammeigh
@grahammeigh 3 жыл бұрын
What's the name of the crag?
@ripapa6355
@ripapa6355 3 жыл бұрын
Why would you hate a thumb loop? Super thick gloves?
@marcushausch
@marcushausch 3 жыл бұрын
Some placements didn't look so Solid,especially last one needs an extension. Show it the right way please.
@FlatOutFE
@FlatOutFE 3 жыл бұрын
@@marcushausch what does your comment have to do with thumb loops?
@marcushausch
@marcushausch 3 жыл бұрын
@@FlatOutFE nothing, no plan why my comment landed there.
@patrickblais2389
@patrickblais2389 3 жыл бұрын
Where is that climb?
@odavies5617
@odavies5617 3 жыл бұрын
Another video enticing beginners into buying expensive kit they probably don’t need.
@ryanc9432
@ryanc9432 3 жыл бұрын
Those were some bad cam placements!!! Pick a 'less baggy' size.
@davidharrington4346
@davidharrington4346 3 жыл бұрын
No shit. Can we say “tipped out”? 😳
@ajacobs223
@ajacobs223 3 жыл бұрын
extend that #1 at the crux
@hoppy1970
@hoppy1970 3 жыл бұрын
@5:48 I thought that chip was going to come out and splatter chica below.
@oldi6btm6t9d4
@oldi6btm6t9d4 3 жыл бұрын
Do you have a dog? 6:19
@user-sp4nx4ho1i
@user-sp4nx4ho1i 3 жыл бұрын
You made that look really hard.
@adamborg1
@adamborg1 3 жыл бұрын
What a meanie
@user-sp4nx4ho1i
@user-sp4nx4ho1i 3 жыл бұрын
Ohh, I was jk. Ya did good! ;)
@meganwong9508
@meganwong9508 3 жыл бұрын
Noobie here - what could the benefit of a micro cam be compared to just using something like a nut or tricam? Especially if a lot of those fit those smaller crack sizes. Potential forces that could be withstood if there is a fall or ease of placement are things I'm thinking of, but any other thoughts? Thanks!
@JasonOgasian
@JasonOgasian 3 жыл бұрын
Cams are generally easier to place, especially for newer climbers who don't have the experience of placing a bomber nut or finding a good spot for a tricam. I personally feel really happy when I have a cam that I can just slam into place versus having to faff around a little to get that nut to sit just right. But that definitely means I just need to place more nuts :).
@meganwong9508
@meganwong9508 3 жыл бұрын
@@JasonOgasian Yeah, makes sense. Also seems like nuts/tri cams were a lot more "popular' or at least comon, but I guess with all the companies coming out with even smaller cams...certainly gives the climber many more options. Thanks for the response - much appreciated!
@robertosullivan9027
@robertosullivan9027 3 жыл бұрын
I almost always prefer a nut or hex over a cam all things being equal. You can’t beat a bomber nut if you learn how to place them quickly.
@meganwong9508
@meganwong9508 3 жыл бұрын
@@robertosullivan9027 Thanks, for the response! Yeah, it's sort of funny because I'm currently finding it easier to place nuts than really small cams at the moment. I find the latter to be hard to inspect at times whereas to me, a nut is much easier to read in the rock!
@sp3k1974
@sp3k1974 3 жыл бұрын
Aren't you supposed to use 2 ropes with trad climbing?
@TobyClimbs
@TobyClimbs 3 жыл бұрын
it can help to reduce rope drag or make traverses safer but isn't needed
@ryanc9432
@ryanc9432 3 жыл бұрын
No. Not at all.
@ladnir
@ladnir 3 жыл бұрын
In the US almost no one half rope trad climbs. Mostly just the UK I think.
@leewilliams6174
@leewilliams6174 3 жыл бұрын
Hardly a review more of an advert, or perhaps that's what this is.
@Alessandromarangoni123
@Alessandromarangoni123 3 жыл бұрын
Is like alien copy
@Lisztomaniiia
@Lisztomaniiia 3 жыл бұрын
Yikes to that tipped out red at 8mins. All I could think about after seeing it
@sadlfjasdfacv
@sadlfjasdfacv 2 жыл бұрын
If you Euros are looking for some "trad", come out to Joshua tree...3000+ named trad routes in one place.
@derekcraig3617
@derekcraig3617 3 жыл бұрын
when gumbies go trad climbing. Be cautious when taking this guys word about how good a new cam is...
@ryanc9432
@ryanc9432 3 жыл бұрын
You mean "gumbies*"
@JanSchrewe
@JanSchrewe 3 жыл бұрын
They can't be reslung :(
@yomchadash
@yomchadash 3 жыл бұрын
Guy sounds like bear Grylls
@pranavsharma5102
@pranavsharma5102 3 жыл бұрын
Try climbing El capitan once
@LastCookieToCrumble
@LastCookieToCrumble 3 жыл бұрын
How can you pretend to test the cams and not even take a fall. You didn't test shit, just advertised the cams.
@derekcraig3617
@derekcraig3617 3 жыл бұрын
No mention at all that these are basically replacing the hole left in the industry by Alien cams going under
@susanholl5994
@susanholl5994 3 жыл бұрын
Nothing will ever replace Aliens. I think Fixe bought the business. Aliens are still widely available new in the US.
@derekcraig3617
@derekcraig3617 3 жыл бұрын
@@susanholl5994 correct, but they are a little different now. If people can't recognize the attempt by WC to use the Alien traits then they just don't know ...
@smashbadger2460
@smashbadger2460 3 жыл бұрын
Alien cams are still available....
@derekcraig3617
@derekcraig3617 3 жыл бұрын
@@smashbadger2460 no, FIXE cams using the alien patents are available
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