I had managed to not think of Hambini for many, many months. Don't read the comments they said...

Hambini is an aerospace engineer as well as a real eye opener. I'm waiting for someone to follow through on their toothless threats. I'm not holding my breath. I am a quality manufacturing expert, machinist and mechanical inspector in aerospace, carbon and medical manufacturing. Not to mention several other expensive industries. Nobody's going to fool me. I know what real and actual high quality looks like. I can measure, prove or disprove it. I know where to find interference fit bearing tolerances too. It Seems like the larger bike industry just makes up their own 'standards' and lets retailers clean up their freakin mess. But don't bother listening to us when you've already drank the marketing BS koolaide. Theyve got to justify their own idiotic purchases! Haha! In my retirement I wrench in a nice clean high end shop just for the fun and to keep my wife happy. Modern 'bike technology' is merely job security and more sales for me!! So keep spending! We've broken all sorts of sales records in the 60 year history of our company during this current bike boom!

All the changes of ‘standards’ and creation of even more ‘standards’ are further proof of the joke that press-fit BBs are. All mechanics love to hate them! But its job security and more sales!! I sell at least one or two a week. More after winter! If bike ‘engineers’ and ‘designers’ had ever bothered cracking open ‘The Machinery Handbook’ (a common mechanical reference) press fit shit would have never existed. I was a machinist for 30 years, now a bike mechanic for fun in retirement. If I didn’t understand and comply to manufacturing tolerances and standards I would have been fired. I dont have a degree but I can read and am mostly self taught, I can understand what engineers talk about so I dont believe bike companies should have any excuses. Pressfit BBs were designed with profitability and cheap manufacturing foremost in mind. EVEN AT VERY HIGHEST END OF PRO LEVEL BIKES!

Wise decision in my opinion.

Please bring back the Porcupine!! Especially a ‘cross version. I loved that tire!!! I also still use your stainless chainrings!

christian parker I have 2018 specialized S-Works Vengevias PS with Praxis FP30 conversion bottom bracket for shimano. But I'm still getting some noise coming from my bottom bracket, how would you recommend fixing this issue?

@@Engineerbydey Praxis did a redesign of their BB's last year, the old design creaked on pretty much every model year 17 and some 18's, all of them had the old design. I would say try replacing the BB with the updated version or I believe Wheels Manufacturing also make a compatible BB if you can't source the Praxis one. When installing either of these make sure to use retaining compound(green Loctite or Park BRC) and let it sit for at least a day. A combination of these two fixes has worked for me 100% of the time.

Bearings are extreme precision devices. If bearing holes are not machined to very close tolerances bearings cannot be expected to function correctly or last very long. Bearings wont work well in egg shaped holes!!Threaded designs are so simple and suffer NONE OF THESE PROBLEMS. They are simple to manufacture and maintain!! WHY do you all buy junk designed by IDIOTS who cant even read ‘the Machinery Handbook’ ??? This is a bible for mechanical engineers. All the specs and data for proper manufacturing and installing bearings is in there!!

@@rollinrat4850 I believed in that until watching a Hambini video showing otherwise. Really eye opener.

I got a buddy with these alu cups and the tarmac still creaking. I told it's a spz marketing strategy to draw people attention to the brand.

If you're thinking of switching that bottom bracket, take a look at BBInfinite.

@@yonglingng5640 The retaining compound only worked for a few rides. Went to a Wheels Mgf. BB and it's working well.

Simon Guard Riders who complain about frame stiffness need to learn how to pedal properly! Especially non racers! Try a fixed gear. It will force you to learn to pedal better. It will make you stronger and develop muscles you never knew you had!

These bottom brackets thread together: wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets.html?bb_standard=6851 wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf30.html wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/pf30-outboard.html

kivriel2 Yeah! An area abused, neglected, subjected to tremendous leverage and torque. The area where moisture collects!

Same issues there.

All pressfit frames are junk. Ever wonder why there are so many different BB 'standards'? Look at mechanical engineering STANDARDS. There's a big difference. Bearings last way longer when they are installed in holes that meet said STANDARDS.

I always used V2 bearings as my first line of remedy in Treks. My Madone has had them for about 8 years. I've had a couple customers who, through neglect, wore out their V2-widened shells. At that point I'd insert new V2 bearings with Loctite 609. The problem seems to be continuing to ride the bearing after it has been damaged. The bearing resists rolling so the race starts to spin inside the shell.

Could be. I think my observation has favored the drive side, mostly because of dirt. But in general, I was dealing with a hard-riding but neglectful clientele.

Wising up, never buying pressfit shit in the 1st place. Since it's well known there is little if ANY QC in bike manufacturing, there is no ASSURANCE you will get what you pay through the nose for. Many manufacturers have returned to threaded standards. Tried, true and proven 'standards' having proven themselves over nearly a century.

If you know how to pedal, stiffness isnt that big an issue. Sean Kelly won numerous races on a Vitus,screwed and glued, aluminum frame. These were known to be noodles back in the day! Lots of teams used them. They were relatively affordable. If you want to learn how to pedal correctly, in a circle, get on a fixed gear and ride it training or in winter or on a velodrome. Its what the pros did back in the day! Ive gotten to the point where coasting on my derailleur bikes feels odd and wrong!

The idea was to get the bearings back inside the shell so they could make wider chainstays. I always believed that after a certain point, more stiffness at the bottom bracket was more about marketing.

axxxxman The wear is caused by improper bearing fit in the BB shell. Bearings need to remain round and free spinning once pressed in yet tight enough so they dont shift position. Its a shit design. Wrong from the very point of conception. The engineers should be ashamed on numerous accounts. PEOPLE, this is very basic mechanical design! The marketing departments should be proud they deceived so many consumers. I guess they figured YOU cant see a BB so its not so important. YOU CAN hear them however! Even on new bikes!! Buy ONLY THREADED FRAMES!!! Theres nothing wrong with them.They suffer NONE of the issues that pressfit SHIT do!

The bearings are not your problem. They are just the part that fails. The problem lies in the frame that the bearings are pressed into.

Oliver Higbee that sucks!

just stumbled onto here. Oliver Higbee, your canyon ultimate is a pf41? C-bear has pf41 bb for shimano, gxp and 30mm crank. office@c-bear.com

I've noticed those bbs' that thread together in the middle. Looked like a good idea to me. Lets us know how you get on with it. Did you get it fitted ok?..

The best solution is to get a ‘properly engineered’ frame with threads. Many pros still race them! They dont have pressfit BBs! Its a horrible design with only profitability and cheap manufacturing in mind. Its obviously flawed considering all the issues you’ve had. Why do you keep returning to it?

If they are hammered out can they be put back in or do you need a new set?

the story goes: it was a new frame. Wrench pressed the cups in. i took the frame home and noticed he was not paying attention. the cups were side specific and he screwed up. i took the frame back and the wrench hammered them out. about 8 months down the line the shell went out of tolerance and would not hold the cup anymore. the frame had to be warranted.

Never reuse bearings that have been hammered

Finder 22 I can almost guarantee your frame was originally built wrong as is your new one. It doesnt really get worse by installing and removing bearings. Theyre ALREADY WORSE! Id be interested in the ‘tolerances that went out’. Pressfit is PRESSSHIT. You cant mold the tolerances required for press fit bearings. Period. Thats basically what he says in this video. Bearing bores MUST BE MACHINED to attain proper tolerances and roundness. Ive measured lots of bb shells for roundness and proper bearing fit. It is NEVER good enough! It is NEVER WITHIN PROPER ENGINEERING SPECIFICATIONS! Im a retired machinist and now a bike mechanic. Ive machined and installed countless bearings in things much larger and more critical than a bicycle. The kind of stuff that lives depend on(we trust our lives to our bikes)and cost millions of $$$$$. There was never ANYTHING wrong with most threaded standards. Even my old ISIS BB outlasts pressfit shit. They dont suffer the issues caused by press-fit-SHIT! They are perfectly quiet and last a long time, even the old loose ball variety! You were sold a lie. Its what marketeers do best. I know its frustrating. Us mechanics love to hate pressfit SHIT! Pressfit SHIT is a solution to a problem that never existed.It was designed for profitability and ease of manufacturing. My best advice is to sell your frame and get one that is threaded. Or use a Praxis, Wheels Mfg or Hambini screw together type BB. Those work ok but still will creak eventually and are only a bandaid for a very simply, poor design. If youre interested in mechanical truth, reference ‘ The Machinery Handbook’ , a common mechanical engineering reference. Specifically the section concerning press fit bearings and the related manufacturing tolerances required. All the info is here and bike ‘engineers’ ignored it to their own profit and to the cost and frustration of all their consumers and customers. The marketing departments ought to be proud!! Its not funny nor surprising in the least that there are even worse safety related issues related to many carbon frames. Theres a few people talking about it. Im not the 1st. But marketing continues to do its job really well. What do you think you pay for?

The WM bb is superior to just a press fit in all ways except weight and cost. They are of course a bit heavier and costlier than the cups. First hand experience with a bbright bike. Problems solved. Also, the shell is re usable can be transferred from bike to bike and bearing replacement can be done without bb removal.

mmooppaarr6699 thanks for the input!

Wheels Mfg and Praxis BBs are a definate improvement but can also suffer from noise and wear issues. For pressfit shit frames, BB Infinite or Hambini probably offer the highest quality options. But they are by no means inexpensive. You also need the tools and expertise to install them. A BSA frame will always be superior. A Dura Ace or XTR outboard bb is only about $40-50. They last for years and are simple and quick to service. 4or 5 Dura Ace BBs might last you the rest of your life!

same thing just longer spindle.

bullwhip johnson says: "For once I'm glad that I don't have the money to follow the latest trends in cycling..." == Blessing in disguise.

"I've had to stick with the older slightly heavier" If you didn't have to stick with heavier would you?

Keith Bontrager: "Stong, light, cheap. You can only choose two."

@@glennoc8585 I still ride my mom's old Raliegh from the '70s as a rain commuter bike. It still uses steel cottered cranks. Its using the original steel BB into which I installed grease zerk fittings. Why you may ask? It just hasn't worn out yet. Cycling is supposed to be a 'green' sport. Bicycles are merely a tool to get from point A to point B. Heavy steel bikes give me a better workout on mundane daily rides. I own a dozen custom built bikes and can afford any bike at cost in my shop I want. I choose to pay full price to a custom frame builder. Oh, the irony....

No.

I get numerous years life out of my threaded BBs. I got 10 years of hard wet mtb use out of an inexpensive Shimano cartridge bb. Ive never had a single creaking issue out of a threaded bb frame that was tapped, faced and installed correctly. Not one problem in over 50 years AND DOZENS of bikes in my riding experience.

Creakinfail invented BB30. Probably the most notoriously crappy bb standard. Creakinfail is now using BSA shells on some of their bikes. What would this tell you?? BOYCOTT ANYTHING with pressfit shit. There are clear and obvious alternatives.

Paint all metal. Leave no metal exposed, and understand bare carbon fiber also increases galvanic current. Use paint, anti corrosive surface treatment, adhesive, locktite, anti-seize, or lubricant between differing materials to seal out water and dirt and partially isolate materials. Find parts made with more galvanically compatible metals. Store everything dry since moisture drives corrosion and galvanic action. Likewise keep things clean but understand cleaning with water can introduce water in unseen interface areas.

Wash your damn bike buddy.

If you sweat a lot, lightly spray down your bike after every ride. Salt destroys bikes! Ive seen frames, stems, steerers, headsets and seatposts practically welded together by salt. Also, during the assembly process, use grease, anti-seize, loctite or fiber paste, as applicable on EVERY SINGLE component interface on your bike, including every screw. This is how professional mechanics operate and not just on bicycles. This is never done on production bikes, and frequently missed on high end bikes. I fix assemblers mistakes all the time. They are usually paid by the bike!Your bike will be much quieter and easier to service if you do so!!

So true! At least Merida made a recall in a carbon fork that turned out to have a weak steering carbon tube and gave a new one back to the affected costumers.

I’ve often thought the same thing. Stay with proven designs. Threaded BBs are much less expensive to manufacture. Compare the cost of bb taps and facing tools vs the cost of machine tools! Threaded designs require the least amount of tools to maintain and are easily serviced by novices. Service life of bearings is much more predictable. DONT DRINK THE KOOLAID!!

Abc Cba Not only that, some of the issues are safety related. Look into issues from some of the drop in headset bearings like Crackenfail or Creakenfail!! (Cannondale), consistently the worst frames where bearings are concerned, Haha, they invented BB30!!! I used to build carbon satellite components as a machinist. I know what good lay ups look like. We were part of the inspection process. I wrench in a bike shop now for fun (Im retired) and have cut up numerous crashed carbon frames. What I found is that there is very little to no QC happening on EVEN THE HIGHEST END BIKES! Scary stuff. You can never know the quality of carbon tubes without cutting them up and closely managing quality. I wont ever buy a carbon frame that I cant witness being built! Ive worked in bike shops a little over 3 years. I have seen dozens of carbon frames relegated to the dumpster. In 50 years of being involved with bicycles, I have seen less than 10 METAL frames that were beyond being repaired. I trust my life to a custom builder in my community, not some unknown factory worker 5000 miles away. I know him personally and he knows me and my riding style. Ive ridden with him. Hes my friend. I can visit his shop anytime and witness my own or other frames being built. I know his reputation and long years of experience. I do my best to avoid all products made in China. I try to buy US made products, where I live. Its really hard and needlessly expensive! But thats another conversation!

@@rollinrat4850 Agreed. I prefer external BB too. However, a threaded BB requires alloy insert to be bonded to the carbon fibre frame so they are prone to galvanic corrosion, in maritime environments especially.

seahog32 Please read my comments above! I dont recommend carbon frames or components , period. Asian carbon is as good as landfill! I used to inspect and machine carbon satellite components. I know how its supposed to be done in a safe, quality and reliable manner. Ive worked in all sorts of high reliability scenarios. I believe human life and reliability aren’t something to be compromised. That clearly isnt happening in Asia. Its all too apparent to me that there is little to no QC happening. Ive cut up numerous crashed frames. The voids and discrepancies are obvious. Ive precision measured every pressfit shell Ive worked on in my shop. Out of over 100s Ive seen, NOT ONE met mechanical press fit specs for cartridge bearings.That alone is enough to convince me. I seems that manufacturers dont take bearings very seriously. Go figure. These ‘engineers’ should be ashamed!

When will the average donkey arse customer who rides 18mph on average, with his hands on the shifters most of the time, begin to buy what they need and is appropriate for them and stop thinking what the pros are using is appropriate for them?

squartaper is a crank standart and not a bb standart but nice try

When will the larger bike industry begin to recognise tried, true, tested and proven design as 'standards'? The term 'standards' in the engineering world refer to proven ideas known to work well, not only over time but in a safe manner. The way the industry uses the term 'standard' is a big joke to anyone familiar with manufacturing STANDARDS. When will the larger bike industry stop using consumers as guinea pigs and the means to their profit, bottom line and greed? Consumers had best WISE UP! Begin to think for yourselves. It is your own money you spend. That is your decision and responsibility. Once you spend it, it is no longer yours. WHY do companies in the larger bike industry invest in large marketing firms, departments and campaigns? They wish to separate consumers from their money. This reminds me of snake oil salesmen.

@@allgoo1990 The only way to 'ASSURE' your own quality is through DIY and mechanical knowledge. Mechanical 'STANDARDS' rely upon a degree of quality to be a given. Look into the differences between QC (quality control) as compared to QA( quality assurance) These are two separate terms, Sort of inter related.

@@allgoo1990 I dont disagree with you. I'm just only referring to bicycles. In the high reliability manufacturing world, where human lives and vast amounts of money are in the balance, we rely upon QUALITY ASSURANCE. Ive help build surgeons instruments and hardware that flies in space. Along with that comes rigorous testing, engineered procedures, not to mention serious traceability and humans being held responsible for their work. Human lives are at stake.

Cut your losses. Get a threaded frame preferably metal. Sell your frame to another sucker. Creakenfail is among the very worst where bearings are concerned. Not only BBs, headsets have some safety related issues as well. Scary stuff. I only use custom built frames built by the friend I know and ride with. If my frame fails(it wont) I can stick a pump in his wheel on the next ride!!

E C Precision is required when using cartridge bearings. Plastic is a very unstable material to house precision bearings. Precision and quality control are imperative. Plus or minus .0002”, those are tolerances we used for machining bearing bores. Thats how you make bearing assemblies that last!!That costs lots of money the bike industry simply cant afford. I know. Ive machined and installed precision bearings in aircraft, spacecraft, defense and medical applications. The bearings are only a clue to the quality of everything else on the frame. I know what quality carbon manufacturing looks like. Ive cut up bike frames too. Lots. QC is practically ignored!! Ill never buy a carbon bike I cant witness manufactured! I wont buy one. Period. Steel, aluminum and titanium have served me well. For 50 years! I dont have these problems!!This garbage is apparent on the highest end bikes! Metal bikes are real!! Plastic is fake! Much of the bike industry and marketing is FAKE NEWS!! Why cant designers simply read “The Machinery Handbook” all the data is in there!

It's not about the bottom bracket. It's about the frame. And the all-purpose answer is, if it isn't threaded, it sucks.

Rixter, I think the best and most durable is the threaded BB. The system may be a little heavier than press fit, but it is easier to maintain. Even many professional riders still use it.

Rixter: BSA, or any threaded BB standard, all day long. Invest in some decent bearings and cups and they will last for years, hassle free. Buy a decent cup tool (~$10) and a cheap mechanics torque wrench with at least 50Nm (~$25) and you can fit and service them yourself.

RelentlessC2C Threaded is definitely the way to go, but unless you have a metal frame with threads (AL or Ti or Steel) doesn’t there have to be a shell inserted between the carbon frame and the threaded BB bearings?

Yes. Nobody is saying you need to avoid the bonds between carbon and other materials. Every carbon bike is covered in them: dropouts, crown race, headset, cable guides, seat collar, derailleur clamp, QR skewers, bottle mounts, etc etc. Threaded is better than pressfit, DESPITE the carbon/alloy interface, which is otherwise undesirable. If you want to avoid bonding altogether, you are going to need one very expensive bike made entirely from carbon.

Ive gotten great service life out of all threaded BBs. I ve got high end BBs still working since 80s. Shimanos outboard cups are their best valued parts. XTR or Dura Ace bb cups are only $40. Tool costs another $20. Easy to change , any garage mechanic can do it. Many of my customers go thru 2 or 3 press shit BBs in a year.

Thread-together PressFit BBs usually minimise the chances of creaking compared to pure PressFit units. However, to know why it creaked in the first place, you first need to analyse your frame's BB shell. Is it out of square? (this will lead to angular misalignment) Is an interference fit present? (ie. if you can push the cups in by hand, especially all the way, then there's no interference fit, which isn't good) Other than the two PressFit types you know, there's a third: one-piece PressFit BBs. Currently, only two companies manufacture their BBs in this manner: BBInfinite and Hambini Engineering (I think the latter doesn't have MTB units) The idea of a one-piece BB is to not only eliminate creaking, but offer perfect angular alignment for the bearings because the BB module is what determines the angular alignment of the bearings instead of the frame's BB shell. In the end, not only do you end up with a creak-free BB, you also get one that spins your crankset like no other BB, even if you're on steel bearings.

Thanks for the help ! The one piece is new to me and very interesting ! It's' likely to be the most acurate but I tend to go with thread together aftermarket solution. I'll look into it further. Again Many thanks ! :-)

My process takes significantly more time and care which I believe is well spent for my own bikes.

Pressfit shit, poor frame manufacturing and virtual non existent QC is caused by corporate greed. Is this not clear? The only way to solve such problems is to boycott them. As long as demand exists, it's par for the course. Look at demand RIGHT NOW! Why would anyone ever pay for 'potential problems'? Are you all dense? Look at all the companies returning to threaded standards. Even Creakinfail, who invented BB30!

45.00 - 0.05? That's like a millimeter under-size?!?

Lite Roadie .05 mm undersize. About .002 of an inch. Thats about right for a 1 1/2” bearing. The real question is if the hole is round- thats kind of important. The other issue is maintaining those tolerances over over the production run. Generally these sort of tolerances need to be machined.

Crackenfail ( or Creakenfail!) should have offered a diamond hacksaw to alleviate the issues! Or maybe just some earplugs!They are among the very worst where bearings are concerned! Both BBs and headsets. Scary and not safe. They invented BB30, didnt they? Do your homework kiddos! Research and talk to experienced mechanics (like me) or real engineers.Don’t drink marketing koolaide! If you want to know why bikes cost what they do look to the marketing departments. Seems like they do their jobs well considering how many have been suckered to buy shit design. They are just another means of propaganda!

Hard points in carbon manufacturing are very common in use throughout industry. They are used for threads, bushings etc. We used bonded metal inserts in carbon satellite structures all the time. QUALITY, true manufacturing standards, proper (common sense) design and real mechanical standards are what is most important. Ironically, exactly the traits greedy bicycle manufacturers forget after a stockholder meeting!!

You got lucky.

Since its an aluminum bike/ bb shell. It is a lot easier to control for tolerances as you do not have to worry about thermal expansion as much as you do with carbon. Also CNC

Kaylan Gray but thought he said it’s hard to control tolerances of machined parts due to tooling wearing during the mass production of parts

High Carb Rider if you rewatch video from :50 he does say that machined tools wear down, I agree. However, through the entire video he only mentioned carbon fiber bikes. He mentions aluminum shell bonded to carbon frame (BB30), carbon shell bonded to carbon frame then plastic sleeves are pressed in (PF30). Your bike, a CAAD 10 comes as bare aluminum onto which bearings are pressed directly into frame. This means at the shell there is only one interface. I think a lot of the tolerance issues arise more from the shell being bonded into a much less round hole which carbon produces as compared to a metallic frame. When something is bonded into carbon B.B. area, the alignment of shell can be thrown off because this area undergoes a lot of deformation when cured. If you throw bearings into this situation it is hard to keep things as rounds as you could with metal

Kaylan Gray Machinist here. Anything requiring precision bearings to function properly requires absolute precision and inspection. Tolerances are in tenths of thousandths of an inch. Thats about 1/20 of a piece of hair. Yes cutting tools wear, thats why you measure and make adjustments. In Asian bike factories inspection hardly exists. Dont get me started on quality carbon lay ups. Is it enough to say Ill never ride one? I value my life. I work in a bike shop now for fun in retirement. Ive measured many bearing holes with my precision tools. Ive cut up many crashed carbon frames. I used to be an inspector. Its obvious no one inspects this shit. Consistency in quality is what I look for. Its simply non existent. I used to machine bearing components for aircraft , spacecraft and medical devices. Ive even worked on carbon satellite components. I know what quality is.

What BB standard is it using?

Aluminum bonded to carbon doesn't have galvanic corrosion issues, this is only an issue between two dissimilar metals like putting an aluminium screw on a steel bolt.

@@lukew2194 The two metals need to be wetted/connected by an elecrolyte which is usually rainwater and/or sweat. So if the bonding is good, tight and complete it will keep water/electrolyte from the interface between the metals so there shouldn't be a galvanic problem. If some of the bonded areas are exposed to an electrolyte then you could still have galvanic corrosion.

.

Richard Liston Outboard bearings are the best most reliable set up currently. Most bikes that have Shimano cranks use outboard BBs and are threaded. No issues at all! Shimano does make some pressfit cups for some pressfit shit frames. The issues are created by the frame, not the bearings. Bearings need to be pressed into round, proper sized holes or they dont function properly and wear out prematurely. Every year more companies are abandoning the press fit shit. Outboard threaded BBs are the best available option right now. Pro teams use them. Theyre easy to replace by anyone with a few inexpensive tools and just a little mechanical know how. A perfectly toleranced threaded bb shell is attainable at any decent shop with simple affordable hand tools. The threaded Dura Ace or XTR bb is their best valued part in those lines at about $40 retail. Cheap for highest end. Great upgrade for lesser gruppos too! They last for years, not months!

The problem is the frame, not the bearings. When the equivalent bearings were pressed into precision-machined threaded cartridges there were no problems, regardless of brand or nationality.

Depends on materials as you shouldn't need to use grease unless you are trying to reduce galvanic corrosion. If you have creaking then loctite is a solution or a better pressfit sleeve/cups.

@@glennoc8585 Plus, loctite needs time to cure to achieve max. shear strength. 641, for instance needs 72 hours according to the Henkel's manual. The surfaces may also need an activator, before the actual adhesive is applied. I suspect many people ignore this as the bb manuals, the ones I have seen, never include this information. Last but not least, I wonder how much of the loctite stuff in retail is actually real loctite and how much is fake. Ultimately, loctite or other adhesives are adding another interface to the fit that shouldn't really be there. These kind of fixes make proper engineers laugh their arses off.

@@glennoc8585 Look advise to put some grease into the bb shell when installing bearings into their bb65 zed 2/3 system. The bb shell is made of aluminium. But they were caught talking out of their arses many times in the past.

@@82vitt well there are fakes adhesives out there including loctite. So many different types from blue to red to green and some are semi hard to hard once cured. I've used the blue for threads that are reported to come loose and some I've discovered by trial. Ive used red semi seal and hard on cylinder head bolts after modifications beyond original spec. Good engineering should avoid fixes i agree.

You could machine a metal frame pressfit BB by hand with a tool just like a headset reamer/facer. No expensive machinery required. Do you know what precision machinery costs? Do you know what machine time costs? Skilled machinists? Inspection? With the hand tools that most decent bike shop already possess, none of the expensive machinery is required. Used properly, no inspection is required! Hand tools with diamond cutters for carbon frames might even exist. But Ive never seen them in any bike shops. You need diamond cutting tools to machine carbon composites. Its an incredibly abrasive material and wears even carbide cutting tools out quickly. Carbon is simply an overly expensive material to use in reasonably affordable high quality production. So manufacturers compromise and lie to consumers about how awesome their products are. Their motivation is the bottom line. Profit and pleasing stockholders is their motivation. These corporations are in business to earn a profit, at the cost of their consumers. They only give a damn about consumer's money.

"Just glue that fucker in" A manual of a 3k bike, probably. Oh my, didn't notice who I am replying to. Love ya man - you have tought me a lot

Dreamin'

You can certainly train a young child (or a monkey) to put stickers on things. My daughter is now grown up, moved out and married, but I'm still finding stickers all around our house! I guess my house will pass an inspection!

It sounds like you're talking about a crankset with a 30 mm spindle diameter where two spindle lengths exist. Those with a shorter spindle only fit on bikes with a BB30 (BB30A for Cannondale) and PF30 (PF30A for Cannondale) BB standard, as the bearings sit inside the frame. Those with a longer spindle fit in almost any BB standard, but if you were to install it on a bike with BB30/BB30A/PF30/PF30A, don't use crankset spacers alongside the frameset's own BB. This because the bearings aren't sitting right next to the crankarms and the overall interface stability would be worse as the spindle can lever on the bearings since there's a fair distance between the bearings and crankarms due to the bearings' narrow stance. What you want is a BB of the frameset's corresponding BB standard with outboard bearings. That way, the bearings will now sit right next to the crankarms. As a result of the wider bearing stance, this is a lot better for the overall system.

Oscar Feliciano For some frames you can get adapter cups. But its just another component to cause the same fit problems and more noise. The c bear, praxis or wheels BBs are the only ‘solutions’ that may or may not work. Theyre basically a bandaid for an unhealable wound. The bearings never last as long as a threaded set up because the cartridge bearing is forced into a shape in which it wasnt designed to operate. Ball bearings need a very high degree of accuracy to function QUIET and smooth, to be efficient and last a reasonably long life. Press fit is shit and the ‘designers’ should be ashamed.

@@rollinrat4850 Said the die-hard retrogrouch who also claimed that freewheel hubs are superior to freehubs, despite its history of bent axles

wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets.html

Shannon Trainer I never said that. Ive owned many freehubs on my derailleur bikes.DONT put words in my mouth. I use freewheel hubs on my narrow axle bikes, mostly singlespeeds and fixed gear bikes as well as track hubs with a lock ring. My SS wheels all have zero dish. I probably ride my SS bikes nearly as hard as I beat my mtb on rocky technical singletrack. Ive never broken a rear axle except on old bmx bikes. I never broke an axle on my older bikes before freehubs existed either. I was modifying and riding road & ‘cross bikes offroad before MTBs ever existed ! To be honest, as a mechanic, Ive seen examples of broken axles in both varieties of hub types, not only freewheel hubs. Personally Ive developed a pretty smooth riding style so as not to break things. Im kinda old and don’t take big risks like I did as a youngster! Now you can waste all the money on pressfit shit you want. They’ll always be shit because its a poor design for current manufacturing procedures. They’re job security for me and lots of sales too! Regarding press fit shit, 1st read ‘The Machinery Handbook’(an engineering reference),specifically the section relating to bearing interference fit tolerances. Bearing bores must be round and sized properly for the correct amount of interference fit. Now take that information, get some precision measuring tools(you’re measuring in .0001“ !) and see what you find on modern press fit shit carbon frames. I have done this on dozens of frames. I was curious as to why they’re so short lived, inconsistent, noisy and ineffecient. What Ive found is a testament to poor manufacturing, little thought to function and no thought to long life of the bearings. I find this on all sorts of frames no matter the cost. EVEN on the very highest end frames. Ive installed brand new $100 ceramic bearings into very high end frames and they feel as rough as a worn out bearing, remove them and they are like new! What does that tell you? Very rarely will you find a frame with proper tolerances molded into it. Bearing bores need to be machined, NOT MOLDED! to tolerances in the tenths of thousandths of an inch for the bearings to function smooth and properly, QUIETLY, and for the bearings to last a long life as they should. That is common knowledge that engineers apply on bearing fits. This is very basic, easy to understand stuff!Its obvious you should not put a round bearing into a non round hole. Its also obvious you shouldnt put a PRECISION bearing into a hole too small or large than it was designed to operate in. This is basically whats happening, not to mention non- concentricity of the 2 bearings. Pressfit shit CLEARLY IS SHIT evidenced by bearings that are noisy and frequently require replacement. The number of changes and new bb ‘standards’ is further evidence of what BS the unknowing user is being sold. Like I said , these so called ‘bike engineers’ should be ashamed! The marketing departments should be proud of all the mechanically uninformed they have deceived!Threaded BBs suffered none of the fit, noise or short life issues that are prevalent with press fit shit. Ive got loose ball BBs (over 40 years old)STILL IN SERVICE. Even a cheap old cottered unit on an old Raliegh that is amazingly smooth AND QUIET after years of use and abuse. Threaded shells and outboard cups such as Shimano’s are currently the best design commonly available, simple enough for a home mechanic to easily service with minimal affordable tools. They are also affordable to replace and have a long service life. If youve bought something else, sorry. My best advice is sell your frame, get a threaded one. Press fit BBs are very obviously flawed! Mechanics all hate them. But we love to hate them! Its job security and more sales! They are designed with profitability foremost in mind and to use commonly available bearings that are not of a type that are best for this particular application. Angular contact bearings are best as tradition shows (engineers back then were no less smart!) MANY companies are abandoning pressfit SHIT and returning to threaded standards. I was a 30 year career machinist. Ive machined and installed bearings on surgical hardware, aircraft, spacecraft and defense hardware in all sorts of high reliability scenarios. Ive wrenched on machinery and vehicles most of my life. I worked in a test engineering lab at NASA. Ive also built carbon satellite components. The questionable Manufacturing Quality of most carbon frames is another story we can save for another time! Ive cut up carbon frames too! Now I wrench for ‘fun’ in a high end bike shop. Im not the 1st person to make these claims either. The gentleman in this video says the same thing as well as Hambini. I appreciate new tech when its well engineered. But you dont ‘need’ this new stuff to have fun or to go fast! You dont need a technician such as me to fix your bike! I can fix any of my bikes out in the field 2 days ride from civilization! Im a retro grouch because the good old stuff works and works. I appreciate things that can be maintained to last indefinitely and things that have been proven over the test of time, reasonable use and even abuse.I appreciate simple machines that roll down the road and take me where I need to go. Whether thats commuting or winning that sprint up a hill. Thats all a bicycle is.

You need a bearing retaining compound.

Before resorting to retaining compound, have your shop order a pair of V2 bearings. These have a slightly larger outside diameter. They're manufactured by Enduro, but they need to be purchased from Trek. Retaining compound is the second line of remedy. If the V2 bearings are still a loose fit, scrub the surfaces clean and refit with Loctite 609.

Thanks for advise!

Tomasz Ciesla Please, refrain from giving advice. Foil is a really bad idea. You'd be better off trying 'cylindrical' loctite. Its the type used to repair 'worn out' loose bearing housings. Up to .005" in diameter I seem to recall. That's a mile where bearing fit is concerned. I just forgot the model # . The actual fluid is green. One big issue is loctite doesn't come cheap, not like a roll of foil!!

@@rollinrat4850 All green loctite are high strength. Use it and you can forget about being able to remove your bearings from the shell, cup, or whatever else as they need very high temperature to let go.

Cattani Green loctite designed to take up space on loose bearing fits. Up to .005" radially if I remember correctly. It might even be more. That's its purpose. We use it frequently on this pressfit shit garbage. You can remove the old bearings then scrape out the old loctite. Sometimes it requires a big hammer! Its not stronger than metal. And Ive done it many times. Im a shop mechanic and machinist. Yeah, it's a ridiculous pain in the ass. To repair such junk is ALWAYS a compromise. We make the best of a bad situation. There's really no excuse for such stupid designs. Bike 'engineers' and designers should be ashamed! The reality is all these 'fixes' are mere bandaids for shit designs, Evidenced by the numerous and changing shit standards, short life of bearings and NOISE! Press fit cartridge bearings are designed to function properly in a hole that is sized to an extremely close tolerance. Tenths of thousandths of an inch. These tolerances are well known to real engineers and interference fit standards are well known in REAL industry. In the way that most manufacturers build frames, they will never ever achieve proper bearing function and acceptable service life. If they did consumers couldn't afford such frames. No matter what promises (or lies) marketeers and sales dummies tell you, Press fit BBs are merely a means to make frames cheaper and increase profits. No matter what they tell you, it is your money, your decision and you will be stuck with the problems. Threaded standards are tried,true and proven for decades. A few smart companies have returned to threaded standards. Maybe they give a damn about their customers! I'll never buy a pressfit shit frame because I simply know better, it's common sense to a mechanically minded person, especially one who's got lots of experience with installation and manufacturing of bearings in all sorts of machinery and vehicles. Ive got old loose bearing BBs that still work fine after over 40 years of riding.

@@rollinrat4850 absolutely, but if you want a light carbon frame for racing that has good geometry, stiff and is a good fit, you're not going to have a lot of choices out there. I primarily race crits and I want a frame that performs. Sadly, it's a reality that we have to deal with.