How do you determine when to make a cut from the top and when to cut from the bottom? How do you prevent the log from pinching and getting your bar pinched in the tree like it did just before you cut the video on the maple? Yours is the first video I've ever watched on how to use a chainsaw so I wanna get a couple more buzzwords before I make my own video on how to use a chainsaw. Thanks for telling me about Humboldt, I'm gonna repeat that in my video. Cant wait to see how you do it on the 10 year review of your new saw after you have run 100 tanks of fuel through it. Be safe even if you have to find someone experienced to show you how.

Two

A testament to how rugged they are for just a "homeowners grade" saw. thanks for watching.

It‘s the 251 these days.

You guys dont have trees down there worth cutting do ya?

I've got an old 025 (ms250 predecessor) that was discontinued in 2002, and still runs like a champ! I got it for $100 because it needed bar studs

Thanks, I have 2 Husky's that stopped running. Very frustrating.

I say fire it up and let it rip! Just Kidding (kinda). I typically run them easy for a few minutes then don't go full bore for a minute or two.

If it doesn't oil enough, drill out the oil ports on the bar. I believe a 3/16 drill bit is what it takes. Edit: *spelling correction

Check out the new light 04 bars they came out with

It's better balanced with the 16 for sure.

Glad you liked it!!

It’s a great all around saw for 90% of people. Thanks for the kind words.

Hey JML - did you have to change the sprocket for the 3/.8 PICCO chain?

@@robertstellato5172 Yes. The p/n for the appropriate 7-tooth sprocket is 1123 640 2002. The bar and chain I used are p/n's 3005 000 4813 and 3636 005 0055 respectively.

Thanks, you too! Thanks for Watching!

She’s definitely a keeper my girl bought me the MS 250 shaaoou!!

She also bought a drone to record it 🤫🤫🤫

The 250 is a good saw. The 260’s/261’s are very easy to rebuild. The only parts that suck is if you have bottom end work or antivibe work. If it’s just a piston and cylinder it’s a fast operation to change on the pro saws. Even the aftermarket pistons and cylinders can be touched up/polished to run nicely and at a fraction of what a true Stihl one costs

@@nsatoday I've just been rebuilding a 250 today as it happens. The previous owner had run it for so long with a loose, and then cracked/disintegrating, exhaust that it had melted the main cradle, brake lever and engine cover/rear handle! He said it had just got "a bit noisy".. I forgot they were a clam shell engine, horrible design. I hope it doesn't have to come apart again any time soon.

@@buggs9950, it’s been a long time since I messed with a non pro Stihl or Husky but I do remember the non pro saws being a PITA to work on and the bearings tended to be lower quality

I popped the jug in mine within 2 years. Only did 9 cord. I gave it away after I rebuilt it. I will never buy a non pro saw again. Too much time to rebuild.

Out of curiosity, why the shorter bar?

@@boston7704 Our trees are smaller...

@@markkuvuori4300 so in finland "tree" are smaller than other country?? ooo i get it,treessssss,,,

@@markkuvuori4300 Are the operators smaller as well? Run a longer bar and stand up and buck it is easier on the back.

You could get by with a much smaller saw using that small of a bar and chain.

Just bought an ms180 for work at a Tree service. It’s cheap, light and should run forever as long as I keep the chain sharp. Thanks for the good content!

DAMN! she must REALLY love you!!! Lol

Johnny Autoseed yes it does. Thanks for commenting.

I recommend that your friend finds a pro level saw that is a few years old. The pro saws are just a lot better for heavier use and they have more power to weight and when you are logging or cutting firewood you will thank me. I do mention the caps in the video but I don't mention that they are bad because I have had a good experience with them. They function fine for me and I like that I can use them with my gloves on and they have a good click feel when they close. I would recommend that you friend gets a 1-2yr old 362 or 261. Either saw can be found for about $400-500 used and they will last a lifetime if maintained.

I'd recommend a older pro saw like 372xp or ms 360

All of my stihls have the floppy caps,I like em. My ms310 is 15 years old,my ms441c is almost 12 years old,and my newer ms250 has them. I've never had any problems with them other than saw dust collecting around the oil fill cap. If ya dont wipe around it with a rag it's easy to get saw dust and chips in your oil or stuck to the cap.

I run the stilh 261c and a echo cs590 both with 20" bars and I can say the echo is more powerful and quieter . Both good saws but the echo is half the price and so far way less repairs . Just my experience.

Stihl you cannot go wrong with it

Go with the STIHL. You cannot go wrong with a STIHL. It will still be working in 20 years! Husqvarna is a solid second place. Echo has come a long way with chainsaws, but professional loggers still mainly use the Big two brands.

​@@JmmMartin-lj5woalso 2 lbs heavier though. The cs590 is closer kin to an ms362 or ms311.

Thats what I thought!! should give it some light break in stuff before going full beans!! He doesent know!

Homeowner saws have modular engines that bolt into plastic chassis.

You would be impressed by the higher end Stihl string trimmers. The straight shaft models are beasts.

@@Jazzking22 km 110r kombi system with a straight shaft is what I got… love it… and pro saw or no saw

Thanks Richard! I am excited to get a 16” bar on the 261 and see how it cuts. I had another person call it a wood scalpel haha. I tried to put the 250s 16” bar on it and it did t fit, the bars must not be interchangeable.

@@Jazzking22 I wonder what is different about them.. I always thought they were the same mount.

@@claysavage8047 Yeah they are on very different levels. The 261 is better in every way but you pay for it by about double the cost up front. If you are just messing around in your woods then the 250 is perfectly fine, if you are getting into logging or really serious work then the 261 is your best bet.

@@claysavage8047 I guess I didn't read the comment that you commented on. Yeah they are different somehow. The chain was about a inch short if I remember. I will do a video comparing the two as well as buy the proper bar and chain for the 261.

@@Jazzking22 yeah I have a 261cm (totally dig it) A buddy of mine has a 250 and a 271. I didn't realize they have diferent bar mounts. We buy rollomatic e bars with. 325 pitch off of the same shelf. That's why I was wondering what the difference in bar mount is.

Haha its the only way to raise them! Oddly enough boys gravitate to the bigger chainsaw haha.

You aren't supposed to drop start any of the newer stihl saws because they have the easy pull start system on them and it will mess them up.

Raccoon arms hahaha. I've never heard that but that is funny stuff. You're right thought, it should have a full wrap handle as an option at least. I am looking to upgrade my dogs soon.

Full wrap handle can be a pain in the arse if needing to low stump cut to meet contract requirements. You see more full wrap handles out west.

@@iffykidmn8170 I get the whole low stump thing… but I love my full wraps so I can work from the same side of the tree and keep a good grip and not have to back bar

@@tjlovesrachelsame. Wish there was a full wrap option for the 261/2. Love it on my 462, and can still usually pull off low stump cuts due to the varied terrain around here.

They make great saws! Thanks for watching

That's awesome! That saw is older than me! My 391 is only 5 years young 😎 haha

The old ones are great . Anything before 2008 made in the USA and 2011 made inEurope . I would rather buy a used saw than a new one .

Next time it hiccups, throw it away and get a new one! Yep straight from China.

Nice! I still love running my 250. It’s a great saw for work around the house.

I have an old 250 that is in the saw hospital. The throttle messed up and with my abilities I figured the guy running the saw shop will have it repaired while I think about it. That is the first repair I have needed out of 2 chain saws,1 pole saw, 2blowers and 4 weed eaters. All Stihl.

You have a 251 not a 250

@@stevenbrown5210 it's a 250. It's labeled 250 - bought it new. It has some letter designations but 250.

The captive nuts aren't on the bar. They're on the cluth cover

I am going to go with a 16" bar and try that with a full chisel chain. I hear from a lot of people that it turns the saw into a "wood scalpel".

I’m running today on a full chisel and 20” bar. My only complaint is the mtronic thing is a bit finicky. Like the manually adjusted carb on my 461 better.

I haven’t had enough time with the 261 to really have a good 6-8 hrs on it and really tell how much less vibration I will feel. The little I’ve run it so far I am impressed with it overall. I am really excited to get a 16” bar for it soon.

Thanks and feel free to send me a shot of that saw. Sounds like a tank that was built to last!

I bought the 261c, figured I would be useing it for many years so worth the extra coin. I have never been so glad to spend the extra money on something. I bought this for a back up to my 046 mag, almost have no use for the 046 anymore.

I just got a 250 for $250

Just an opinion here, but sell the 250 and try to find a used 026/260/261 so that you can run the same chains and bars on both saws. I have an 024, 026, and an 036 and run 18" bars with 325 chain on all of them. I used to have an 025 until a "friend" dropped a tree limb on it. It wasn't a bad saw for the average home owner, but it just wasn't enough for heating with firewood. Having the same bar and chains makes it nice not having to keep track of which bar/chain goes with which saw. Not to mention that if a bar/chain gets pinched on your 362, you can quickly grab them off the other saw and put it right back to work. I rarely use my 024 any more, but it was okay for limbing. Would have been better with a shorter 16" bar, but it ran the 18". 026 gets used mainly for limbing and bucking. 036 gets used mainly for bucking and felling. If I need more than an 18" bar, I have an 064 with a 28" bar and 404 chain. Realistically, the way I have my 036 set up, it will keep up or out run the 064 so long as the 18" bar isn't buried in the wood. Even then, it doesn't lag far behind until you get up over 20" of oak, hickory, or locust, and it's not worth carrying around the heavy 064 for those 6 or 8 cuts where it might be faster. I do use the 064 for bucking when I have a stack of logs and can cut through 2 at a time, as well as for noodling large rounds in half so I can safely lift them up on the splitter.

@@nospam3409 The 024 super AV can run a 20 in. bar according to the owner's manual. It's over 47 cc. Nice and light, great power to weight ratio. A much sought after saw. Parts are still available. Manufactured in Germany and the U.S. in the 80's. It was considered a semi pro saw, and a price tag for the home owner. It was the wood boss of the time.

@@johnnellis3025 there's a difference between running, and running well. With a 20" bar, an 024 is going to be really slow. 18" was slow enough that I went and found a used 036 to go with mine after the first season. 16" bar is a much better choice for an 024. My 026 was my last addition to the tool set. It runs circles around my 024. It and the 036 do the bulk of my work.

@@nospam3409 Is your 024 an 024 super? A bit of a difference. About a1/2 h.p. That is alot for a small eng. The difference between an 024 super and an 026, is about 5 c.c. Or about 1/5 more h.p. I run an 18'' bar more than a 16''. I have bigger saws to go to, but my 024 is my go to saw. Bought new in the 80's. Can take down 30-36 in. trees all day. A bit slower, but a lot lighter.

@@johnnellis3025 mine is a standard 024. I've honestly never seen an 024 super. Too far back to remember.

You can get a good used 250 for under $200 and with a 16" bar and yellow chain, you will be limbing with the best of them and it won't wear you out.

Look the new husky first! 440 -16 inch.. got the NEW dial pin side plate!!! game changer:NEver loosens up chain/except when chain stretches.. never moves/always tight.. unreal!

@theykilledthegiggler i ended up getting a makita 4300 for my 'littlesaw'. limbing and such. and i run a dewalt 20v for ladder cutting. its crazy how far battery powered saws have come in the last few years

The 362 is a great limbing saw personally

Awesome! Glad I could help. You will like the 250, it’s a great saw. I hope you will subscribe. I plan on putting out more content very soon including more information on the 250.

@@Jazzking22 subscribed 👍

Thank you!

They are both easy to start. The 261 has the decompression valve and it makes turning it over an absolute breeze. I don’t know if they sell captive nut cover plates for the MS250 but it’s not a huge deal if they dont. Please remember to subscribe!

To be honest, I grab my 261C at least 80% of the time over the last few years. It just runs so well and has been a great saw. It's not heavy and with a 16" bar it is very comfortable to operate.

Yeah I have a whole video on how to do it.

Buy once, cry once! My dad always told me that you will long forget the price of an expensive piece of gear but if you get something cheap you will remember it every time you use it. Words to live by. Check out his channel of you want some cool content. kzfaq.info

Me personally… I’m goin with a 461r as my “one and only”..way more power…way more bar options (up to 36”)…and lots of aftermarket support with goodies and such

buckin billy ray be kind

The higher the power to weight ratio the more power you get in a lighter saw.

7880bab yes it is very acceptable. I’ve run the saw for several hours at a time before bucking up trees and the saw outlasted me. I was physically tired before I ever noticed vibration being an issue. The 250 is arguably one of the best all around homeowner saws. It is light, has decent power, and can be had for under 250$ used. It runs great and is easy to handle.

I have both of these saws. I bought the MS 250 new after buying one for my son for a gift. Great saw - best power to weight in a consumer class saw The anti-vibe on the 25o is quite good. About a year after buying the 250, I came across a very slightly used MS261 at a really good price, and decided to buy it. Awesome saw, and when switching back and forth from the 250 to the 261, you can feel the difference in the anti-vibe, and of course the power. If you cut occasionally, the 250 can’t be beat. If you have a wood lot and cut regularly or professionally, the 261 is the best choice.

@@profdave2861 I feel the exact same. I still go to my 250 all the time because its a great saw and does 90% of what I want to do. If I am going into the woods for a while then I grab the 261 for the power and anti-vibe. Both are great saws and both have their place. Thanks for commenting and I hope you Subscribe for more content in the near future!

I have a 251 Wood Boss also. mine has been excellent and has the same power as ms 250.

I don't personally but I am sure it is a good saw. You can't go wrong with a Husky or Stihl. The 261 is a great saw and I would highly recommend it.

the 261 is like a saw for the only saw you own! do it all! the 550 is bigger and for big trees ! too heavy for a trim saw! have to have another saw.. like 16 inch ..for limbs..or bigger man.. use a 250 ..for limbs..

@@chrisstokley7687 no, the 550xp is in the same category as the ms 261cm. Not a bigger saw. Both are 50cc machines.

Mine are the standard Husky Chaps. www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-587160704-Technical-Apron-38-Inch/dp/B00STHFARY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=csl-chapspants-20&linkId=29a271566a2545d5b501dca0b16e503a&language=en_US

These are the same ones but a newer generation. They are the highest rated of them all for the price point (less than $100).

Actually no it is absolutely in the Homeowner category right on their website (just checked). I can also tell you first hand, it is a homeowner class saw that isn't even in the same arena as the MS261 or a bigger MS361/461. The 250 is a great saw and fits about 75% of homeowners needs but it isn't a "Landowner" saw, which isn't even a classification that Stihl uses.

Interesting, I'd say it's a difference in regions and marketing. Here in Australia Stihl have 3 categories of Chainsaw. Homeowner, Landowner and Professional. In Aus the 250 sits in the Landowner range whereas the 260 is a Professional saw.

@@AJFixie Yeah. They do that in different regions I’ve heard. But here it’s a homeowner, then it steps up the the farm boss, then professional.

I keep hearing good things about the MS180. If I get my hands on one I will do a review and put it up against the 250. Thanks for commenting.

@@Jazzking22 The only thing is the 180 may not be a 20 year still working like new type of saw. But for 200 220 who cares. if it lasts 4 5 years you got your money out of it. I just LOVE the weight of it. its sooo light. and NO it wont buck up 20 inch oak logs well.. But every tool has a purpose. That saw I love to fell smaller trees and limb with it. For that its awesome. Plenty of power for that type of work. If you have some big stuff you need to get a 60cc saw. My 261 is a good all around saw but it struggles with a slightly dull chain on Bigger stuff. where as the 60cc saw it can get it done just fine with a non razor sharp chain. Dull is dull but not every chain is razor sharp all the time.

Grab the serial number and call the companies tech support, they will tell you or sometimes you can just google it to find serial ranges per production year. Bought an old used husky, and found it was from 1979 lol. Thing was an awesome first chainsaw.

Thank you! I appreciate the comment!

Yeah, I left it in to show how stupid we can all be. No matter how much we cut... you need to be careful.

I still love it. It has loads of power and with a 16" bar and full chisel chain, it is a wood scalpel. I haven't experienced the hot start issues since I did the calibration back over a year ago. I think its a good saw for a "professional homeowner"!

@@Jazzking22 Damn! Proho! Act accordingly.

Thanks much appreciated!

You can pick the 261c up for about $600USD. They are worth every penny in my opinion.

Yeah but everyone does it. It’s safest to have it on the ground, stepping on the handle well. Between the legs works well to stabilize it too.

Check out Steve's small engine soon video on it, the issues is you run the risk of damaging the eazy start spring if drop starting with that system. Supposed to let the eazy start do the work of making it easy.

New you can get one for around 350-400$. Used you can find deals for 200$

No you cannot. I ended up purchasing a separate 16" bar and new full chisel chain for the 261c and its a beast with that combo.

@@Jazzking22 Dont both saws run .325 .050 ? or did your 261 come with 3/8"

That's a Beast! Be safe out there.

Kinda what I'm gonna be running with the 661 , but with a top handle for climbing.

A buddy of mine bought the 500i and absolutely loves it but it is realllllyyy expensive. But I am a life long believer in the adage that "you get what you pay for". Be safe out there and thanks for watching.

Flipping the bar extends it's life so it's not just wearing on one side.

@@primacat1 Another great thing I learned on KZfaq back in the day. It really is the new everyday university for all of us that want specific educations.

Thank You!

Mid range Stihl saws generally run a wider chain compared to Husqvarnas. Takes more fuel to fling more chips.

First off I hear your pain. The good news is I have the answer, I hope! I would not run with the saw in winter mode (i.e. air directed to the carb to prevent icing) if it is above 20F. I have personally used my saw in near zero with no issue when it was in summer mode. Second, I would absolutely run a recalibration (see my video on that here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z7ppd86QzZ7NYI0.html). I bought my saw with a 20" bar and it did pretty good in some big red oak but I recently bought a 16" bar and full chisel chain and HOLY CRAP this saw is a beast. I think the 261c will prove to be a great saw but it needs a few kinks worked out. I really think the recalibration will make a big difference. Last thing would be to check the spark plug and your fuel/oil mix.

Thank you, will get right on it. Have a good one.

Also read muffler mod. makes a big difference in power. Probly would let the warranty run out first

Yes the M-tronic is Stihls proprietary electronic fuel control system to automatically adjust for things like temp changes or a dirty air filter. The 261C is a power house of a saw and I love it so far with the exception of the issues I have had with the warm restart. I am doing a cold rest video right now to show how to reset the M-tronic system. I think that will fix the issues. I can't wait to run a yellow chain and 16" bar on this saw.

@@Jazzking22 oh that's great. So you're saying the M-tronic 261 isn't easy to restart once it's been running and all warmed up? Hope to see your video soon. Who is the best dealer for the Stihl ms 261 M-tronic for the lowest price and most knowledgeable helpful tech services staffs? I'm in South West Connecticut, Northern Westchester NY areas. Thank you 👍🏼

Therese Röthel it depends on your location. What kind of tree work are you going to be doing?

@@Jazzking22 I told you our location. Basically in Northern Westchester County, NY. We do all types of tree work in all New Englands four seasons climates. We prune and take down big trees and we climb with and currently use the Husqvarna 346xp and the 435 no problem. Technically speaking these aren't climbing saws but they are light enough ( 10 pounds) and we need the power and 18" long bar. We are very good and very safety conscious always. Thanks 😉

261 is heavy and too most., a ground saw! seems you dont mind a lillte more weight to climb with! try the new husky 440x!!! its like ..yet wow power ! totes the 3/8 chain on a 16 bar.. very well.. its got a wow factor: the NEW improved side plate doesnt move /or chain never loosens up!!!! NEVER... cause its 1 nut + dial pins in the cover.. OMG... wonderful!