@@saraflores9601 Truth!

Ah yes the list of never ending “while you’re in theres” What’s going on with your starting issues? Ngl starters are like AC compressors and alternators if you can get one “new” that’s the best way to go I always find the rebuild companies a little suspect. Is it just cranking weird?

@TakeFlightGarage how much time you got? The rebuild was prompted by the bendix not engaging. Done by a reputable local shop. Now after the clutch job the starter itself seems fine but 8/10 starts requires a ton of cranking, maybe a little throttle, then it reluctantly sputters to life and acts normal from there. The other 20% of the time it fires up near instantaneously like it should. I've checked and rechecked speed/reference gap, grounds, fuel pressure, timing, spark and spark timing, compression and everything else I can think of.

@@anthonydietmeier6524 def doesn’t sound like a mechanical issue to me it’s gotta be something electronic. It’s gonna be an extra PITA because the only real trouble shooting you can do is when the car misbehaves. Personally just from what you’re describing especially with needing to add throttle to get the car to going suggests to me something with either the TPS, or the AFM, or possibly the DME itself. As long as the speed/ ref sensors are outputting the proper signal without interference the only thing I can think of would be the wiring itself at those plugs. It gets hot frayed and corroded and if they even get slightly bumped wrong the wiring will short and the car won’t start even if you still are getting tach bounce. The last thing I’d suggest maybe having a look at would be the ignition switch. If it’s on its way out it might also cause starting funkiness. Hopefully that helps!

@@TakeFlightGarage I've got good tach bounce, checked the sensor ohms, newish Technica Racewire harness, haven't looked at the DME yet, new Lindsey MAF, probably some other things I forgot. Gonna oscilloscope the sensors this weekend and see how they read. I wish it was a mechanical issue, I deal with those a lot better.

@@anthonydietmeier6524 lol I haaaate electrical issues. My money is on TPS or DME. Make sure you don’t forget to let me know what you find!

If you’ve got a back up you’re golden I used to walk to school hahaha. Long story short they didn’t torque anything period. So my AC compressor was loose, and one bolt backed out of the tensioner so that time the ac compressor was literally only being held in place by the belt. They also didn’t bother re installing my under trey which is a $200 part.

@@TakeFlightGarage haha was it a common occurrence walking? I’m hoping most days than not I can drive as it isn’t the easiest bike… Oh wow that seems like some very shoddy workman ship wonder if they like forgot it just genuinely had no clue what they were doing

@@ireiaandnah once I sorted most things out I was driving everyday. Only a hand full of times I couldn’t drive the car to school.

@@TakeFlightGarage hmm okay that’s good to hear! What would you recommend the best way to go about getting the car? It’s about a 5 hour drive from us, so we were thinking get on a call with the seller get to know him, get more info on the car, more photos, then get it sent for a pre purchase inspection by a Porsche specialized garage then go down the next day?

@@ireiaand I think that’s an excellent idea. All of those are spot on 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻. Depending on the age of the belts it’s your decision if you want to drive it or not. Both times I bought my cars I decided to just have them shipped home. It was about the same distance 5-6 hours or around 300 miles. It’s up to you to have it shipped home that’s personal preference, I’d budget around $500-$600 to have it trucked home. Just remember that every car is different so I can’t give you exactly what to expect or guarantee anything, but hopefully with all the info you’ll have all the ammo you need to make a well informed decision!