This video makes move the sound easy, but there's a few things to watch out for which aren't in the user manual (which has only a step sequence diagram with very small scale diagrams and lettering, but no written instructions) or in the video. First, the tools are not specified - DIYers could easily damage the screw heads/slots. The lower hinge screws are hex shaped and were so tight that I needed a socket set to get them out and tighten them up. I couldn't get the lower hinge screws to go at all in at first. Resorting to mirror and torch, I saw that the screw holes had a plastic film across them. Break the film and the screws go in, though a dab of very thin oil helps them along as they take the plastic film with them! The top and middle hinge screws need a special star(?) screwdriver bit which most people won't have; the spec. of it isn't mentioned in either video or manual. You can use a flat bit but ensure it's a really good fit. It's difficult to remove the hinge hole blanking plugs. The video skips past this. Use the thinnest screwdriver blade you can find. It would be nice if Beko designed in a prising-out gap in the plugs or provided a simple thin tool to do this part of the job. The bottom hinge is completely different on my model so video not accurate - no wrench was needed. There's no mention in instruction manual for my model or the video of the L & R fixing holes in the lower hinge bracket. Moving the freezer hinge socket was hampered by the insulation (?) that filled the self-tapping screw threads and made it difficult to get the door stop out. On my model there's no need (so no hole) for the ajustable foot to move to, but this isn't mentioned in the video or manual. I conclude that Beko assume you will get a tradesman in to move the doors, but they don't want to say so!

Thank you so much for your comments , won’t be attempting the change anytime soon 😅😂🤣 with my old indesit fridge took maybe 15 minutes . This beko one is for astronauts

To reiterate what others said, you absolutely need a socket set, for the bottom screws, asides from this you need a philips head and flat head screwdriver should be enough. On Beko CFG3582W, the bottom screw slots had plastic film coverings so make it a bit harder to screw in, I used a small sharp object to pierce it, as I could not remove it all together. The instructions and video look daunting but it is super easy to change over and took about 30 mins.

Spot on. I can only hope that the Fridge Freezer performs better than the instructions to change the hinge side. Torx set and a socket set needed. Flat blade screws went out with the Ark. Come on Beko catch up !!

For bottom screws you WILL NEED a socket set. You WILL NOT unscrew with a screw driver. You really need to make this clear in your video.

Thanks for sharing this video - it was helpful - the instruction book directions are useless - as others have said you need decent tools to complete this which I found reasonably straightforward - some of the fittings were slightly different but it was easy enough to work that out - the side screws are a combo of flat head and Philips on the same head - I found it more positive using a flat head but you need the right size or risk stripping the head - the bottom ones were the same but inside a nut head - I got one out with a struggle with a flat head screwdriver - I couldn't shift the other one - fortunately got that out with a good socket set - I found the bottom hinges easier to work on by laying the appliance flat on it's back - don't try and "bodge" it using the wrong screwdrivers and sockets would be my advice - took about 45 minutes and a few swear words at the bottom hinge.

Yep, I agree with the very helpful comments about the tools needed! You definitely need a socket set for the bottom brackets and a special “star type” screw driver for the screws on top of the door. With these tools and a bit of patience it’s a simple half hour job. Without the proper tools good luck! A Philips screwdriver won’t do it.

After that ordeal, can I just ask what's wrong with Phillips head screws?

Nice clear tutorial, however in real life my experience has been that the door screws are so tight that neither me nor my husband with the biggest screwdriver we have can get the last one to shift. We've had to arrange with Beko to have an engineer out (a week's wait and possibly a charge of up to £90 if they don't consider it to be a manufacturing fault). Next step is to try a socket wrench!

Thanks for this vid, a great help I have a (BFT2716SSIM) refrigerator in the US. Reversing the doors on mine (a similar model) was not hard to do after watching this. Thanks again!!

I have a Beko RCSA300K30SN fridge/freezer and need to reverse the doors. Second step in the abysmal manual is to remove the 2 plastic looking screws on the top where the top hinge will relocate to. I tried unscrewing them as they had an X-head; all I managed to do was unscrew the head from whatever is inside. The top of both holes looks like some silicon but I have no idea how to progress now. I can't even see if there are the remains of the plastic screws or whether it's the threaded body for the metal screws to go into. Anybody else experienced this dilemma?

agree with all the other comments... and thanks for posting them.

Yesterday we switched the doors on model CFP3691VW and made these notes: Tools required: Screw drive: Torx T25 Small flathead screwdriver Pozidrive screwdriver 2mm allen key 9mm socket 13mm open spanner Bradawl Folded cotton sheet for cushioning Large plywood board 8x small white plastic screw covers Overview of fittings: Top hinge = torx T25 Middle hinge = torx T25 Bottom hinge = 9mm socket Handles = 2mm allen keys DOORS REMOVAL: 01. Turn off power 02. Place 1x folded sheet over top of the unit to cushion unit against wall 03. Place plywood base in front of unit and drag front feet of unit onto it to protect floor 04. Drag unit forwards so rear wheels touch the plywood board then tip unit back 45° to lean on wall 05. Unscrew and remove bottom left & right levellers 06. Unbolt bottom right foot-hinge with 9mm socket while holding up freezer door (2x bolts) 07. Release and remove freezer door 08. Place unit upright 09. Remove right middle hinge while holding up fridge door (2x torx T25 bolts) 10. Release and remove fridge door 11. Remove left middle white plug 12. Replace same to right side 13. Remove top right cover plate with flathead screwdriver 14. Remove top right hinge (2x torx T25 bolts) DOORS REPLACEMENT: NOTE: the new bolt holes you will use all have a plastic film across them. Break the film with a bradawl then hand-turn the bolts in individually into the door without the hinge to make sure the bolt has 'grab' before doing it for real (makes it much easier!) 15. Remove top left plastic plate. Rotate same plate 180° and push into right side of unit 16. Use 13mm open spanner to unbolt pin on top hinge and replace on opposite side of same hole in hinge. 17. Attach top hinge to top left (2x torx T25 bolts) 18. Bottom of fridge door: use posidrive screwdriver to remove white plastic curly plug. Use same screw to pin white plastic curly plug from door adapter kit (provided with the unit) into hole on bottom left side of fridge door 19. Replace fridge door and hold in place 20. Replace middle hinge to left middle (2x torx T25 bolts) 21. Top of freezer door: use posidrive screwdriver to remove white plastic curly plug. Use same screw to pin white plastic curly plug from door adapter kit (provided with the unit) into hole on top left side of freezer door 22. Top of freezer door: remove white plug from right side (this is not easy!) Use the same plug or the one in the door adapter kit and swap it with the transparent plug from the top left side of same door 23. Tip unit back 45° to lean on wall 24. Push up and replace freezer door 25. Replace bottom hinge to left bottom (2x 9mm socket bolts) 26. Rescrew both levellers to bottom left and right 27. Replace unit upright 28. Replace top and bottom plates to right side 29. Unscrew both door handles using 2mm allen key and fix to right sides 30. Purchase white plastic screw stops to fill left handle holes or fill with white mastic 31. Leave 4x hours before turning on power Took me about 3 hours (Phew!)

Succeeded type 1 fridge, thanks to this video. But recommend not doing it yourself if you have that option. Very real risk of stripping your screws and ending up with a partially disassembled cupboard (bottom hinge was almost unshiftable). Video certainly cheats... checkout at 1:43 when the plugs start raised 5mm for easy removal, when you are going to need a very thin yet strong tool to get them out. It is possible with the right sized flathead screwdriver, a phillips head screwdriver, a small wrench for the bottom hinge as shown, a large wrench for the feet which are too stiff to turn by hand. But recommend tracking down and investing in a replacement tothe flathead for the odd screws being used. This is certainly not what I would consider 'user serviceable', even though I did get through it.

to reverse a door on some fridgges you will need different tools. On top ofthat bolts are tighten by machine not by hand

Thank you!!! 👍

Luckely the screws werent too thight, went well overall except the part at 1:47 , because it's in there, really in there! finaly figured out that I should not have put my screwdriver in between on the flat side, but the round side.

Waaay more fiddly than the video suggests. It’s like Excalibur trying to get the bottom hinge screws out. The only way I managed it, was to get out my drill and socket set. And I am strong like Ox.

I don't like the ringtone that you can hear throughout this video. Someone should clearly have answered that phone.

Nice tut but in practice I agree with Liz's comment below some of the screws are so tight luckily I have the star-shaped (not sure what its called) screwdriver that fits the screws which came with a Bosch electric screw driver which helped to loosen them. Swopping over some of white studs especially on the freezer door was difficult too. Ended up using some pliers in the end and not a screw driver as the video instructs.

Would love a video on reversing full Freezer doors (RFNE312E33WN)

Seems like I won't be attempting this then! 😂

Perfect video, followed it and it worked a treat.

Bottom hinge pin removal good luck with that! Anyone any ideas how to remove?

I gave up on the first few steps 😂

the top side of my Type two door has had the holes filled in with some kind if glue?! any advice?

Very good advice that was helpful.

Easy to follow video, however the bottom screws were on way too tight! Ended up snapping our screwdrivers, and stripping the screws. Didn't call Beko because they charge through the nose, instead got an independent out to switch the doors for a fraction of Beko's £90 charge! Be warned

Screws too tight to remove

Lower hinges are crazy tight and the cap in the fridge door is crazily tight in there Iv scratched all the top trying to get it out. Not impressed and will be sending back

THIS VIDEO IS VERY FALSE! But dont pay Beko to do it find a competent person an give them some cash. video/manual doesn't mention you need: Torx driver for top and middle hinge adjustable wrench or spanner for hinge pins Sockets and wrench for base hinge Normal and small phillips drivers for white plastic bits on doors Small sharp flathead for tab Also none of the holes are threaded ready for bolts on the other side, you have to puncture them. Hand turn bolts in individually without hinge or door to make sure the bolt has 'grab' before doing it for real makes it much easier if you have the tools and you start from the bottom up then back down it's ok once the holes are ready.

This is a shocking job. Starts nicely with spanner - bit tight - and screw drivers as per the instructions. Then come the star screws with two so close to the hinges that they start to strip - absolutely not as per instructions - until I stood it up and got my wife to support the door open to allow a better angle and greater purchase. I have £1,000s worth of tools including star connectors. Many will not have these and so I feel two warnings are necessary. 1. Specialist tools required 2. Strength required If you want the hinges on the left, some people might consider hiring someone to do this.

Well I'm glad it wasn't just me with the bottom screws! What a flecking annoying design.

The quality of the thread tapping is appalling. It really feels like you are cross threading the screw's. You just have to take your time and try and hand start as best you can before moving to a socket set.

What's wrong with just some hinges? Why have you over engineered a problem into existence?