I believe in new spark plugs, have y’all changed the plugs and air filter?

I would change both O2 censer's, would deffently take them out of the equation if it still does it.

I would replace the rear O2 sensor. I've yet to break one removing it using a proper 6 point O2 sensor socket. I love my inductive heater which has yet to fail me getting a nut / bolt out. Spent $420 for mine but it was the best money I've spent on a tool and I swear less now. 8-) Easy Peasy.

I own a 02 Camry XLE V6 they are a Finicky little 👿 and engine light has been doing the same thing I have used catclean which is supppossed 🤣to be the best I might as well peed in the gas tank and I replaced O2 sensors with Denso Brand Still ON , I Took it to Mechanic he's baffled and he also checked the temperature of the Cat's it runs like a Scalded Dog next thing I might try is a Smoke Test because after reading About my Precious little Baby if Toyota especially detects a exhaust leak it sets off the Code, I have even tried the cheaters that you screw in where the 02 sensor goes didn't work, Ohh Yeah remember I said Finicky when the light is on No Stability Control or Traction Control. Good luck 🤞 on the Vibe can't wait to see the Outcome 👍

I have used cataclean to clear a p0420 and it lasted for 5,000 miles on a V8.

How did you learn to do this ?

did you turn back on before 02 reinstalled ? or did I miss read thanks

Sounds like a recipe for a car bomb

​@@juliawei8990lots of mechanics know how to do this. Carburetor cleaner and/or brake cleaner will also work. If you use brake cleaner just make sure it's the one without chlorine. We use carburetor cleaner followed by brake cleaner without chlorine when we did it. We left the engine running and sprayed it through the hole where the O2 sensor goes before the catalytic converter. If you have a O2 sensor that is not working, you can't simply clean it as the sensor is not doing anything. I always tell people I recommend cleaning the catalytic converter in this way before you replace the O2 sensors, that way you don't dirty up the brand new O2 sensor. After you spray a can of carburetor cleaner through the top hole (closest to engine, in front of the catalytic converter) while the engine is running, when you are done, then replace the O2 sensors. This will almost guaranteed fix your problem each time. This saves you about $800 by not having to replace your catalytic converter. If this doesn't work, you can then remove the front O2 sensor again (The one closest to the engine before the catalytic converter), poor about a quarter of a cup of Dawn ultra soap down your garden hose, stick the garden hose up your tailpipe as far as it will go, then take a washcloth or old shirt and jam it around the garden hose where it enters the tailpipe to form somewhat of a seal. Turn the garden hose on a little, and watch the hole where the O2 sensor was before the catalytic converter. When water starts coming out of this hole, immediately turn off the water hose. Let that water sit in the exhaust system for about 10 to 15 minutes. This will break down all the nasty stuff in your catalytic converter. Then remove the hose and rag/shirt. Allow the water to drain out for about 10 minutes before starting the vehicle. Do not put the O2 sensor back in that hole, until you start the vehicle first and run it for about another 10 minutes. This ensures that there's not too much back pressure on the exhaust system. Then replace the O2 sensor, and you should be good. You might have to possibly run another can of carburetor cleaner/brake cleaner (without chlorine) through the catalytic converter again.

I sprayed seafoam directly into the catalyst ran it for about one hour then highway it did the job for me

Thanks for thr information

Cool thanks

You would think so! 1500 miles of system cleaners should have gotten her a BIT more squeaky on the inside!

😂😂😂😂😂

rr=q😅

That's should really be clean lmao

Why anyone would think it would have worked with a brand new cat is beyond me.

Do you put two cans of the dura lube at the same time?

@@judyfroemming7756 No. One can per tank of fuel. Halfway through the second tank of fuel, the light went out.

When did you replace O2 sensor ? @@skylinefever

@@juliawei8990 About 15,000 miles before the light came on. I replaced both the upstream and downstream.

Ha, ha, ha.......lucky you !!!!!!

Do you clear the code before input if the CRC ?

That was kind of my take on it as well, and really never expected this video to go much of anywhere. Worth trying $70 worth of products and run a few tanks of gas through to see if any of this stuff worked. Thanks for watching and helping to offset the cost of making the video!

I've actually considered the same thing. Planning to pull the plugs and do a compression test of it as well, could knock those out at the same time.

Always be polite even when no one's looking 😉

I have no problem doing active data monitoring to verify things are working as they should, in this case I used it to confirm the front sensor is see the typical rich/lean situation and the rear is seeing a much cleaner signal. Can certainly clean the MAF sensor that's a pretty easy to do bit, what's your thinking?

I had the same thing happen after a transmission replacement. I just saw water dripping order the vehicle. I called under there and found two exhaust leaks. One at the crossover clamp and one at the muffler clamp joints. And yes an exhaust leak downstream of the cats can cause the P0430 code. I'll soon be headed to a muffler shop to repair those leaks.😟

This can happen if the mechanic had to remove exhaust and did not assemble it back correctly or cut corners. Best bet is to take it to a muffler shop and have them check it out. Or if you have a smoke machine do a smoke test and it'll show all the leaks you have under there

"threw the hail mary ball of gas additive witchcraft", What's that ?

Sometimes you've got to do a thing for science! We've used Seafoam many many times and have had some pretty good results on cleaning fuel systems/injectors up a bit. Unfortunately this maybe was a of a reach for just a fluid fix. Glad you liked the video Donnie thanks for coming along with us on another one!

Hmmm not a bad idea, could be pretty easy to test that! Thanks for the heads up!

Same here.

Or you could just read it on the scan tool.

​@@JohnSmith-xx1lx- There's temp sensors in the cat?.....🙄

​@@PayNoTax-GetNoVoteNo. Typically people use thermal infrared temp sensors to test hot cat and exhaust temps.

Figured it was worth the test, if it fixes my car great, if not, at least we all learned something!

good thing he had small gas tank, cause if rislone one says 1/4 tank they’re being vague. he got it right to make it 1/2, which is a common ‘1/4’ish, but then he added gas, deluding the potency, 😩dMmmmnn himmn☹️. (ps., at least ‘cataclean’ says so many liters, something like 4-5 gallons).

Good question but no unfortunately they are completely separate types of sensors, and this motor being a 4 cylinder only has one front (upstream) and one back (downstream). Fair question though, certainly a great trick with spark plugs and coils!

What do you mean you need to space the o2

@@forrestfuller6359 look online for 02 sensor extension/spacer they are easy to install and worked on my truck, they are cheap and worth a try

​@@forrestfuller6359get a long o2 sensor bung/a o2 sensor spacer. It is basically just a pipe that screws into the o2 sensor spot and then you screw your o2 sensor into it.

Thanks for watching, really appreciate that! And as a fellow turbo Volvo person, very glad to hear that! An angry turbo Volvo Wagon is our kind of thing for sure! You pretty much understand the point of this video, and why we figured we would make it. Do they clean things up? Ohh probably. Any time you are burning and running certain chemicals they DO do something. Are they going to fix a P0420 code? No probably not. Might cook off some soot, but that's about it.

YES! I get my gas @ Get Go in PA & JUST realized they're no longer top tier (stickers removed)! I googled for top tiers & says Sheetz was, & it wasn't. Says Sunoco is, so I have to check next trip out. A royal pain, but I totally agree witu YOU! ✊👍

I recommend adding the cleaner around 1/4 tank and driving until you reach 1/8. Then add fuel to about 3/4 and run back down to 1/8. Rule of thumb is the more fuel you add the more diluted solution is. But each product is different and they tell you how much before and after on the box

Is that good or bad?

Car needs spiritual cleansing

That's where we're most likely looking next is replacing the rear O2, not a HUGE cost as long as it comes out of the pipe ;)

@@LucoreAuto Been there. As a auto tech it was fun to watch this. The yellow bottle has given us mixed results as well. We don’t have emissions testing in Minnesota. I’m assuming you guys do there? Often times our customers are electing not to deal with emissions codes but we do do a lot of exhaust, especially lately lol along with people wanting to ensure maximum miles per gallon. I also really enjoy your expertise with the old stuff. Especially performance related alignments.

@@LucoreAuto 32 YEAR'S AND I HAVE NEVER SEEN THE LIKE AUSTIN..SHOULD HAVE JUST REPLACED THE O'2 WHEN YOU HAD THE CHANCE...WOULD HAVE BEEN CHEEPER I THINK..32 YEAR'S WORKING ON CAR'S AND I HAVE SEEN MORE PEOPLE BLOW MONEY ON SNAKE OIL TO FIX THEIR CAR...PO420 9 OUT OF TEN TIME'S IS AN O'2 ISSUE..REPLACING CAT IS USUALLY NOT A LONG TERM FIX ONLY BANDAID ON A BULLIT WOUND..AND YOU HAVE A SCANNER THAT WILL TELL YOU WHICH O'2 IS LAZY? RICH SHOULD KNOW BETTER...

It’s all a scam. Currently running high flows stainless works on my Hellcat with spacers. It initially worked for me, but now I have a permanent P0420 tripping. We’re talking nearly $3k per side to fix. I have the OEM so I will be using a rebuild service to have them refurbished for a fraction of the price prior to putting them back in the car, and may still run spacers afterwards as a precaution. They always figure out a scam to suck money out of consumers pockets.

"Scam" ? How ?@@meanmugmuzik7901

What did you use it on and did it turn OFF the light, or just keep it off for a bit?

Do you clear code first before pouring CRC?

What cat did you end up using? Something directly from Toyota? Walker? Something "Universal High Flow"?

@@LucoreAuto for my 2001 trans am , it was a direct replacement from gm, and the car only had 45 k

Lol yes well that's not exactly FIXING the problem ;) That's just kind of a workaround to make the light go off ;)

That's high on our possible issues list that this high flow catalytic converter just isn't doing enough cleaning to make the sensor happy. It's certainly got a LOT smaller element than the factory unit and these Toytoa power plants ARE known for being quite finicky. Not totally opposed to a rear o2 sensor swap but nothing we can see in our data is pointing straight to a "bad sensor" it's reading and reacting as it should.

If the readings between the 2 are close it's a cat issue . Sucks the aftermarket can't get there game right . Look forward to seeing the fix

Cataclean" ??? But would definitely use lucas ethanol stabilizer/ lubricant" after

another guy was saying that when the ECU reads a new o2 sensor that the cat has to be clean and have clean fuel/air mixture

@blastztrixx9748 not gonna believe this but it was a blown fuse. It was causing the O2 code and a EVAP code as well. I replaced it and cleared the codes and all is fine. But the p0420 code is back again.

@@bearing_aficionado what fuse was it?

@blastztrixx9748 it's the FAL fuse. It's in the engine bay. A 15 Amp blue fuse. It will be located in a row of 3 15 Amp fuses. It will be the middle one. The FAL is part of the emissions and controls oxygen and exhaust readings. I was watching another video and it was talking about if you get a O2 and EVAP code at the same time that a relay was the culprit. I was browsing the comments and one poster brought up the FAL fuse. So I decided to check and sure enough that was my problem.