Hi Dan, thanks. Yeah, trying to stay sort of original but re-purposing things like ashtrays in Bond-esque pieces is tricky but rewarding. Thanks for following!

Thank you, Sir! Slow and steady…,

Yeah, that's pretty crazy. Don't make the mistake I did......make sure your rear axle is centered, it will save you a lot of work. I documented 4 years of the build on this thread: www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/index.php?threads/project-face-off-1953-willys-wagon-on-a-2006-jeep-wrangler-lj-frame-running-gear.9725/ You can check it out there for the nitty gritty on my mistakes, successes, etc. If you have any questions, feel free to post them here.

Thank you, Sir! Let’s hope it’s ready for a test drive during your next visit.

Lt. Cmdr, will you be commissioning one also?

@@Austin-bv8fn Not at the rate I build them, no.

Thanks for following along. I'm always open to suggestions as the build is still in progress.

Was the class worth it? I've considered taking one.

@@ProjectFaceOff It was. It was fun and the basic knowledge helped me get over my worries. $120 bucks well spent for 8 weeks.

Hi William, thanks! For the rear ashtrays, I only have finished one so when I make the second one I'll record a bit more and provide some of the details. Long story short, I cut out the internals of the ashtray, cut out a square piece of metal that fit tightly in the space, cut a hole in the middle, squeezed it into place, and then used some thick glue/caulk to hold it into place.

Hi Murray, you're right! I probably could have cut out the wheel well so that it was flat from front to rear but I liked the look of only cutting out what was needed. My Willys is going to have a 4" to 6" lift when all is said and done so I'm not too worried about the tires hitting the interior fender. As it stands right now, the tire is first going to hit the fender/body panel before it hits the new location of the lower fender. As for the sheet metal, I'm just repeating what better/more experienced welders have told me. Remember, I'm just an average do-it-yourselfer whose trying to build a resto-mod. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any tips about installing a steering column. I'm in the middle of that right now and it's trickier than I thought.

@@ProjectFaceOff What is tricky part? I found the wiring to be tricky on one I did for my 3-wheel electric car using a geo metro. I tried to determine how the turns signals worked, and eventually found there were 'don't care' conditions that could never be used. Mechanically it should be straight forward. This is one of the many reasons I am using the Explorer chassis, I'm using the explorer firewall and wiring and steering column, brake and gas pedal, brake lines, etc. Will still have to remove all the door lock/window controls from the wiring. Are you on the oldwillys forum? easier to help on a forum

@@murraymadness4674 Yep, I'm on there too. Just type in Project Face Off and you should find me.

The seats are from a 2016-ish Ford Explorer. The second row seats used to be readily available on Craigslist and eBay. I paid about $150 per seat.

@@ProjectFaceOff So all the seats are from a 2016 ford explorer? Because the front passenger seat looks thinner than the ford explorer. I used seats from a 2011 Honda element (I paid $35.00 each at the junk yard) because the front seats have the seat belt on it and the back seats you can move to the sides making a bigger cargo area. The only drawback is the front passenger seat doesn't move all the way to easy access to the back row seats. I like your setup. I may use that setup on my next project.

@@chucklima1 if I didn’t have a budget, I’d spend the money on the Honda Odyssey 2nd row seats. Unfortunately, they are cost prohibitive because others have realized they are good hot rod seats. The 2016-2020 Ford Explorer Police Interceptor 2nd row seats are readily available brand new when they upgrade the vehicles for custodies. I found some on Craigslist down the peninsula for $150 per set. No seats are perfect but I’m happy with my choice so far.