Thanks Danny. Your welcome 👍👍

Rick. He is a master at everything he does. He helped me do the jointery for my Timberframe house. You should see him do timber framing. We also are great friends. I have nevder seen anyone with Colins skill set in my life. 👍

Awesome glad I could help.

Hi Paul. Awesome. Yes it will last for a long time if it has the ability to dry out. Cedar is very roe resistant wood. I used black locust for my porch posts on my timber frame. There 8”x8” they should be around a lot longer then me. Lol 👍

Thanks Matt I appreciate that buddy. 👍😊👊

Thanks Jim. I did it on the shop part 3 years ago and it sucks the heat out of the upstairs like crazy. 👍😊

Thats awesome I am glad the video is helpful to ya.

I saw another builder putting the purlins diagonal down instead of a grid. It still gives the air space but save materials and labor compared to the grid type. I am thinking about just using exposed screws galvalume to save cost.

Thanks I’m glad you like them. 😊

Thanks Richard I’m glad it’s done. Lol

Thanks buddy I appreciate that. Im glad you enjoy the videos. 👍😊

I also like how relaxed your videos are and how much good info you put in them.

Thanks. 👍

You don't want the Snow accumulate & become ice hard in a gutter?

Thanks Tom but I need them boys just to keep up with the concrete we do now. LOL

@@bondobuilt386 That's where you take on an apprentice.

This metal is 24 gauge we walk all over it It will not dent. that product holds dust in it and does not pull air no where as good as the purling top.

Thanks Robert. My house is a timber frame Me and Colin the guy doing the roof built it from trees I cut down and milled with my band mill. I have a few videos of my sawmill and doing a timber frame porch out of cherry trees we logged off my dads land. Check them out if that interests you👍

@@bondobuilt386 I'm building a three and a half story geodesic dome home that has two domes connected together with a short but wide hallway. I'm doing all the work with my wife helping me every now and then. We haven't hired out any of the work. I always work alone unless my wife is around to help but she is afraid of heights so she doesn't help on any of the high stuff at all. It's all me. This isn't my first home I've built from the ground up but my second home that I've built with my own hands. I'm a carpenter and have always wanted to build a timber frame. I would use ICF blocks for a raised foundation, then the timber frame and then SIP's. I like the exposed timber frame look best. There are some aspects of my geodesic dome build that will have some timber frame aspects on some of the extensions that pop out or away from the dome structure. I'll be selling this home once dome and building a home like yours which has been my dream design for years now. I love the way your roof has two pitches even though it's not that great for snow because it tends to pile up on the lower slope. I'll be building a barn on the property before I sell the place and I plan on building it like what RR Builders builds barns. He does a great job.

@@robertlaird6746 Thats awesome. That dome must be a hard house to build. Especially by yourself. 😊

@@bondobuilt386 Yes it is and that's why I wanted to build one, for the challenge. My next build will be the largest geodesic dome in the world that will be made out of metal pipes and SIP's for our garage before I sell the property. After that, my plan is to build a timber framed house on a different property. That house will be my forever home. Then I will build a shop like what RR Builders builds. I might build one on this property before I sell it but for sure, I will build one at my forever home property. I'd like to build one out of timber frame but I'm not sure at this point. The trusses will hopefully be timber frame but that takes a lot of extra time and the pitch of the roof I want isn't that steep so I'm not sure if a timber frame will work. The property that I'm building now is my stepping stone to be able to afford other builds and set myself up for retirement. Yes, I'm in love with the design of the dome and it could be my forever home since I'm building it out of pocket as I go but It would make for a profitable transition to better our lives.

@@bondobuilt386 We are building it ourselves due to cost and the fact that we don't want to go into debt to be able to afford it. Besides, we don't have that kind of money to be hiring outside labor. Labor is very expensive and if we were to finance that labor, the interest and payments would defeat the purpose of our goals.

Thanks Clay. It took us about 50 hours to do it all. 3 guys each day. We also had to strip the shingles off. It was a big job. Glad it’s done. Lol

Tom good idea. Thanks. 👍😊

If you had a buddy with a roof machine like I do. LOL Seriously the material is real expensive buddy. One way to save money is to make your own trim but that is an art in itself. My buddy made all mine custom. I wish he didn't sell his stuff. 😊

Thanks Josh. The rafter tails were naied into the facia. Then we meaured and snapped lines. They are on 16” centers. 👍👍

Yes it took about a week. My buddy gave me a deal on the metal but I know metal cost are higher right now.

Yes he is my son. He’s learned a lot this summer and gets better every job we do. Thank you. 👍👍

Mike , your telling me. We did 3000 square feet in one day. Lol

Thanks. Yes that mesh vents a lot of heat and moisture. I think you have a good idea with the radiant barrier there buddy. That’s why I love KZfaq 👍👍

What is a radiant barrier?

@@HollywoodCreeper : aluminum sheet foil that reflects heat

The metal roof itself act as a radiant barrier as long as there is an air gap behind it.

actually they will

Yes they will in time for sure but last a lot longer than what is normally done is what I meant to say 🙂@@redsresearch

@@thegrantdanielsband no this will speed up the rot

Umm no not as fast as putting them on top of the roof single layer horizontal?? Who are you kidding? The water has nowhere to go are you joking?🙂@@redsresearch

@@thegrantdanielsband well oby that will be worse, but putting them on purlins/battens like you did will rot out the purlins and roof deck alot faster then If you just put it streight on the roof deck without any purlins battens

Home-D sells a similar product, just different perforation.

Yes it works awesome. I think they all should be done this way. 👍

I like your design comments. What type of screen did you use and how did your terminate it at the wall? Did you block between each row under the overhang?

@@Patrioti3260 I used "Construction Metals KM625 Mesh Screening" (Amazon). You could probably use a thinner gauge roll of screen but the above mesh I think will be a lot more durable. I doubt rodents can chew through it. For the walls (bottom to the freeze board) I used some trexed (Ripped) to protect the exterior insulation (2" rigid panels) so the foam wasn't exposed (Trex will never rot). I think I used fencing staples or heavy duty staples to fasten the mesh to the 1x4 and to the bottom of the Trex. I may have bent the mesh and put up the Trex after ( I don't recall). I left a small gap between the siding and the freeze board for air flow, which isn't visible at ground level (two story building with a raised heal roof wall). I used a 3 foot raised heal in the attic space so its easier to run duct work along the wall. For the SIP Fascia, I used 1x4 and stapled the mesh. into the 1x4 and underneath the SIP. The 1x4" was covered by PVC and I used fiber cement board (4x8 sheets ripped) for cover under the eaves. I used two foot over hangs for the roof to provide some additional shade cover during the summer as well as to cover for wind driven. rain.

I dont quite understand what you mean with your design. How is air getting from the underside mesh of the facia up and through the underside of the metal roof with drip edge covering your path for air flow?

@@clutchbeyers There are perlins between the metal roof sheets and the roof to create an air gap. Air flows in the gap between the roof and the metal roof sheets. On the facia side, perlins are used to create an air gap. (ie Sub facia board::perlins::facia board.

@@guytech7310 ok, so you must not have drip edge installed otherwise it would cover the top side of your air flow gap. Also, how are you preventing bugs, rodents from entering the underside of your metal roof? Your roof perlins, are they running horizontal or verical?

Hi. If it were me I would insulate the roof from the top with foam board 2 layers thick 4" and then create the air space like I did and your ice problems will go away. you will have a bigger facia area but its worth it.

No I think that would be fine.

The gutter brackets might need to be shimmed out a little bit. That cap won't leak we get tons of snow blowing at it sideways. This is a real good roof system and not many can compare to it. 👍😊

if it was going to be heated I would have the roof deck with the ice guard membrane like this roof. Cold storage then no roof deck.

The way I do it creates a air space for the above the roof deck venting.

@@bondobuilt386 So does purlins going up at an angle. Matt Risinger in Austin Tx did a video about this a year ago. At first he didn't have an airspace and redid the roof.

@@alohajason Og gotcha I did not see that you said at a diagonal. The nice thing with my method is using the purlins to walk on. My roof was a 14/12 pitch in one part. sure made it nice to work on. Thanks for the comment because a shallow pitched roof I might do it at a diagonal.

Great comment! I’m looking at doing metal roof on a 1-1/2 - 12 Frank Lloyd Wright Prairie style house that already has a fairly large facia & was wondering how to add a minimal amount of additional facia so that’ll definitely help 👍🏼

Jason thanks buddy. It comes in sheets. Let me see if I can get info from my buddy Colin 👍

That stuff is perforated steel, 1/8 in holes on 3/16 centers, galvanized 22ga www.brown-campbell.com

@@bondobuilt386 I'll give them a call on Tuesday, thanks for the info.

@@jasoncanmore5838 Glad to help 👍

Why won't it let me like this video.... again no blue thumbs up....

I was thinking that I wouldn't even put down that black tar paper. We have the same Amish in Western NY. Same exact thing. Amish Home Depot I guess.

That should be fine for a barn but if you will heat it you might get condensation if you don't have the plywood in there.

I'm looking for the sane answer. Going to be doing my roof here soon

@@Dan-qx3nh Depends. If you have the required insulation ABOVE the air barrier then this is OK. In my climate zone that is 51% of the insulation so deck, peel and stick air barrier, 6" of poly iso taped to create drainage plain or a layer of ice and water shield (Inspector might demand this and its a good idea), then purlins and metal roof.

No not at all but this was 24 gauge metal

@@bondobuilt386 Thank you for your feedback. I've been planning my own build for quite some time now, and it just occurred to me that having metal roof panels raised and properly ventilated like this might lead to lack of support. But it's nice to know that it's not an issue, at least with 24ga panels anyway

Yes he sold it pretty quick.

1/16" ish

Walt. Darn buddy that sounds like a mess. The can lights should have been sealed. They leak a lot of moist air. You will need soffit vents and a ridge vent to get rid of all that hot humid air. Sounds like the guy didn’t consider venting at all. 🤦‍♂️ unfortunately it’s probably not a cheap easy fix. Wish I had better news. Is this roof shingles and what color is it? Bondo

Bondo Built It’s a black shingle roof. What do you think’d be a better plan: add soffit + ridge vent and keep vaulted ceiling or knock down vaulted ceiling and replace with flat ceiling with gable vents? Just curious, what would you do?

walt the black roof is like a huge solar panel so thats not helping the situation at all. i think the vents at soffit and ridge would be a cheaper option then tearing the ceiling down. your still going to loose air around the can lights but at least it can escape out the vent. this should cool the space as well. Bondo

@@bondobuilt386 I'd get rid of the recessed lights. They mess with insulation, and then they turn into a fire hazard. Not worth it for an outdated fashion statement.

@@tealkerberus748 Yes I hate them.

Ya it was a pain. Lol. He actually sold all his equipment and moved to The country Peru to live. He used to spend the winters there but loves it.

Oh wow. What's going on in Peru besides small women? Fruit trees?

We walk all over my roofs with no problems. mine is 24 gauge metal but I have done 26 gauge corrugated the same way and no issues at all walking on it.

Look at this system first: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gbChath1yMWXonk.html

@@bondobuilt386 Looks really sturdy indeed. Also the paint looks like it does not get scuffed or scratched by walking over it. Since the 1 X 4 they are a bit flexible, may actually help the steel panels move a little as needed because of temperature changes, and this may mitigate oil can effect on the panels. Sometime when these panel if they are screwed tight directly to the roof deck may develop oil can since they cannot move freely when needed. Did you get any "oil can" on the portion of the roof that you have installed the previous year?

Sorry buddy its sold. The Machine was like $180 k

Sorry not $180 it was $80

@@bondobuilt386 80k with all the other tools used to install your roof? I wonder why he purchased it and then decided to sell it shortly after. I guess he got it for one job or decided he didn't want to be a metal roofer any longer. He did a really nice job on covering his equipment in that custom box he built.

Your buddy did a really nice thing for you and a stand up job at that. You owe that guy a large favor! Your roof turned out perfect looking from my vantage point!

@@robertlaird6746 Yes he did Robert. Thank You. 😊

Thats 24 gauge metal.

1/16 holes 3/8 spacing.

Sold sorry.

Sorry Alex he sold it pretty quick.

He is like a big round Biscuit. LOL. We just all pick on each other and have fun.

Scott is was sold. Sorry.

single seam.

@@bondobuilt386 you can double seal it when your climber friend come back to visit from Peru

It depends what is under your roof deck. In my case it was an unventilated roof assembly. So I had no where for moisture and heat to escape. The vents will help keep your house cool and it will also prevent ice dams because and lost heat will vent out above roof deck but under the metal.

@@bondobuilt386 Thank you

I am not sure what it is called. It is for standing seam though.

I have never heard of that. This 24 gauge steel roof should resist fire also. LOL

Uniform building code requires Versa shield. to go under the metal roofing. Look up Gaf versa shield.@@bondobuilt386