*PLEASE CONTRIBUTE TO MY PATREON ACCOUNT, I MAKE NOTHING FROM KZfaq* www.patreon.com/starrtile

You're literally the only one that explain this step in detail. Thanks for the info!

This video is three years old and still the best I have found for how to and an explanation for how things are done. I purchased my first home and have been working my way through projects and despised my master bath fiberglass shower. I thought I bit off more than I could chew but you gave me the confidence and knowledge to save myself thousands here in Alaska. I was really nervous (especially with cost of material here) to "waste" or ruin my materials by making simple mistakes that I learned to avoid from your videos. I poured my pan two days ago and hopefully wrapping up this shower by the end of the week. I just wanted to say thanks for the videos. They really are helpful!

This is the video I have been looking for!!! I watched wallboard videos and membrane videos as well as many tile shower videos on other phases of the process! I couldn’t find this viewing angle at this stage! Not even by accident! Thank you sir! I have done my homework! I’ve got plenty of air and opportunity!I’m no stranger to the construction industry but this is my first tile shower. Now I can move forward without concern that I’m still going to do something stupid and screw this entire project up. You have a fan for life! Thank you for your time and effort on these videos. Especially this one!!!!

Been at it for 33 years as a contractor and always appreciate your videos. I've been redguarding the pan setting rock and redguarding that with no gap. Never had any problems but I'll start gapping. I like the concept

StarrTile! I've been watching a bunch from your channel prepping to rework remodel my bathroom myself and you are the most insightful, you answer the most of my questions and curiousities, and you're the best at helping me over come my ineptitude by your displays of bad work you have to fix and your commentary on them! thank you so much for your efforts and contributions!

That's great news! I set my wall board on 2x4's before I started learning how to make a concrete pan in a 6'x4' shower. Now I've got about a 1" gap from wall board to pan. I thought I screwed up worse than I did. Beginners luck maybe.

Okay so I'd like to start by saying I really enjoy your videos. Of all the folks I've seen post videos for tile advice, yours and and very few others are as helpful and well rounded. My name is Tanner Sutton and we own and operate a plumbing and flooring company here in western Oklahoma. So as far as preslope helping if any or at all, in my experience, the capillary action does take place in a shower floor mud (4 to 1, or deck mud, specifically shower floor mud though) however, if the red gurard membrane is installed from wall board and continued onto the floor mud until stopping around 6 inches around your drain, the only place water is able to go past tile is into the floor mud by the drain, at which time, when weep protection is also correctly installed, I've never seen water on any of my showers, wick all the way back up to the wall and saturating pan completely, before it enters the weep holes. In my experience, the water will always follow the path of least resistance, and the plumbing code the Oklahoma recognizes actually calls for a certain percentage of preslope to shower pan, and it's usually a steeper grade than finished shower floor itself. I dont have any videos, but the next tme I pour a pan and do my floor test, I will also test my weep protection and send you a video if weep holes draining long before complete shower pan saturation. Thanks again. Work hard my friend.

Thank you for this video!!! Everyone talks about NOT PUTTING THE WALLBOARD IN THE PAN but no one shows how to go from there.

Keep preaching Bob! There is absolutely NO reason whatsoever for your wall board to touch the deck or the floor tile!!! I wish the rest would get this one VERY important detail.

Thanks for the many excellent videos you've produced. They are extremely well done. I like how you think about issues and don't just blindly accept 'current" wisdom. You've taught me a lot.

I like this guy. No bs here

Bob.... I really enjoy these videos. Probably watched them several times over to make sure my shower remodel was done properly. We had mold constantly on our tiles. When I demolished it, everything was wrong. Cheap building contractor as the home is only 10 years old. Even had to replace the subfloor sheathing as well as wall insulation due to rot and mold. Several tile contractors wanted to cut corners in their bids and didn't go with them. Went with one and still had to tell them certain things I wanted such as Regard, the height of the wallboard as in this video, and a few more. Overall, the job came out great. My wife is extremely happy not to have any more mold on the tile!!! Thank you and I'll be sure to keep an eye out for future videos. Cheers, Joe

It sure is refreshing to see proper way over failed way scenarios!

Love love LOVE this video!! My dad told me that the wall board should be in the pan so the water has a continuous path to the drain, but it went against everything I felt deep in my heart. I am a beginner DIY-er, so I live by these videos!!! I was also wondering (as was my dad) how to handle that gap, and this video made me feel much more confident in handling the next steps in my DIY shower remodel! Thank you!!

In another video you showed the issue of the wallboard wicking the water up, but that was a PVC liner and the wallboard was on top of the membrane. When the cement board is on top of the waterproof membrane, it will obviously be exposed to water. In this case, the Redguard membrane encapsulates the wallboard as well. The only way the cement board could get wet is if the waterproof membrane fails. If that fails, this becomes a mute point, the shower will have a leak regardless of the wall board wicking.

IDK how you know this stuff but you're like a tile guru. For someone like me, who's new in the home improvement industry, I appreciate the knowledge! 💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿

The actual problem is the shower pan mortar bed is not draining the water away from the walls effectively. Two things can cause this, no or incorrect pre-slope or blocked weep holes. If your liner is sitting on a flat floor, it's the perfect recipe for water to pool and build up in the mortar bed. The water level in the motor bed rises and up the wall it goes. Raising the board off the mortar bed is really not the solution and here is why. Let's say the wall is 1/4" off the bed, this space will either get filled with grout which is water permeable. It will bridge the floor and wall and up the water goes up the wall board. Filling this space with silicone or siliconized grout won't work either. All the tile grout lines on the floor are saturated with water and they channel water toward this space. These grout lines will funnel water right under the silicone bead and up the wall the water goes. A correct pre slope, top pre slope and clear weep holes will pull water away from the outer perimeter toward the drain and down the pipe. If you build it correctly it will work correctly.

By the magix of your generosity and KZfaq I didnt have to build a dozen showers to figure that out. Thank you!

Question, so that small gap at bottom behind last wall tile. (Looks like about half an inch) Will water and moisture not eventually get back in that space and just grow mold? Sure you could caulk the wall tile to floor tile interface, but all caulk fails eventually. So you create constant mold space the entire perimeter of the shower. Have you pulled apart old showers made this way and seen mold growing in that gap? I'm assuming you red quard the very bottom of the wall board, but still just seems to me that gap is gonna grow and hide mold.

Great Video,Red Guard is Junk,It takes to long to dry,Slowing down shower pan testing and takes along time to dry after the test for setting tile,I use Hydroban,Its bullet proof and stops all hydrostatic pressure that bleeds into the walls or pinholes,It dries in an hour ! Your videos are great and appreciated :) THANKS

Ok, so I understand why not to allow the wall board to touch the pan. However I see a problem with the "gap". All i see happening there is water seeping behind that wall tile and accumulating and then any number of nasty mold and mildew is going to grow behind there. Impossible to clean it. That does not seem like a good solution to me. Who wants hidden mold sources all along their shower floor corners? Caulking would work for a time, then fail and moisture will get back there. I don't get it. ???

You mention in your video that you don't know why installers embed the backer board into the sloped mortar bed yet the Oatey Shower pan liner application instructions are very clear about it. I certainly defer to your wisdom and experience as an expert , however ,I ALWAYS refer to manufacturers recommendations to insure all work will hold up under scrutiny to guarantee a warranty installation

I have watched a lot of your videos and really helped me doing my shower from drain to shower pan etc

Currently ripping out our shower for this reason exactly. THANK YOU sir! Our tile and green board was clearly put on the slab before the shower floor was done. Not gonna use green board but thank you for showing the proper way to do it!

I love the way you don’t answer anyones questions.

If you are using the oatey pan liner (fully water proof) under the mortar bed then why are you also red gaurding the mortar bed surface? I thought this was frowned upon and can trap moisture between the two water proof layers

Do you think it would be better to put the mesh along the gap at the bottom and then Redgard it? I feel like you wouldn’t be able to get the water proofing in that gap good enough to completely cover every inch. Wouldn’t there be an exploded end of the backer board facing the floor?

Easy for the layman to play armchair quarterback, BUT now there’s a void where moisture and mold can collect. What if you pre Redgard the back three inches and bottom edge of the wallboard before installation, still keep the gap, back fill it with silicone to fill the void, and then fully butter the last tile to fill in all gaps?

Installers place the rock board 1st and mud up to it because it locks up the rock board solid to the framing(no flop). This is following the rule that you aren't suppossed to put fastners through the lapped up pan liner (3 inches from top of curb down to floor ( no nail zone)). your new little system may work, but good setters just don't rest the rock board on the liner. and they flash roofing felt behind the durock over the studs and over the pan liner( wicking fixed). Old school Mud float walls tie in with mud pans too. John Bridge.

THIS was what I was looking for! Direct and to the point!!! THANK YOU!

So leave a 1/8 or 1/4" gap between the cement board and shower pan. And also leave a 1/8 or 1/4" gap between the tile and shower pan? Is this correct? ( new to home improvements and slow learner) thank you for the video.

my exact question... now I can do the next step on my weekend work project!

3:54 (for example) Do you then caulk that small gap between the wall tiles and the floor tile?

Hello Bob,I just came upon your channel while browsing. I started with watch your channel when April came aboard. Let me commend you, on the patient you had to teach a female who wanted to learn. You really do GREAT work. Your now my #1 channel!!!!!!!

You should design a shirt that says "get your wallboard off your pan"....I think it would be funny!!

:)...You do a great job!...I Use Mapei grout which always has a matching caulk...I use the sanded caulk for the inside corners especially at the floor and walls in the shower...It helps deal with movement and gives a clean look...I started using the Pink waterproofer because of your usage...here in the philly area; too few guys want to do it right; they just want to get paid...I see you, as a business owner myself, want to stand by your work...If only all the owners could get together and be a single entity...:)...

Thank you a lot sir i know what's u talking about bcz u are a real trademans on field doing hard work 👍👍👍👍

What happens when the shower drains slowly and water fills up a couple inches during the shower? You do know that the void at the bottom fills with water right? Or when sewage backs-up and stays there a day or so while the owner gets the drain cleared? Are you SURE you got enough Redgard at the bottom of the wallboard? If you miss just one tiny speck, water will find its way to the outside. It also won't get through a 24 hour water test....or if it does, their new shower just got soaked with water, the doomsday clock began before the shower was finished.

Ok, I get it. You should never embed wallboard in the pan because there is a strong likelihood that it will wick water. If there is a sufficient gap, and you paint the gap and bottom of the board with red guard and leave that gap unfilled, then you will have eliminated wicking, which I am assuming is the cause for mold. What is confusing is that many of us have come to believe that an 1/8th inch gap where wall board meets floor prefilled with red guard and then reinforced with mesh tape is sufficient, and custom building products lists the ANSI standards it meets. Now, I'm not saying your method isnt better. I'm asking is there strong reason to lose faith in the prefill with red guard and tape method? Thanks!!

Starr Tile, forgive me if you've already addressed this question. I've followed you're advice on the gap between mortar bed and hardieboard. I've Redguarded everything like you did. When I go to tile my floor, do I want my thinset to go all the way back in that gap to the wall (pan membrane (that is refguarded) or should I stop the thinset just before hitting the membrane wall? Hope that makes sense. Thanks! You have really helped me over this bathroom project.

Brother, I'm not bragging I'm 64 years old I was taught by the tile union in Los Angeles, Point being the reason you're getting water wicking up from your shower is that shower pan is absolutely 💯 saturated from not having pre slope under the pan material! And the weep holes are clogged with mortar! You should always per slope, and lay a 3/4" gravel around the base of the drain so the mortar doesn't plug up the weep holes..

Ok, I see all that, and don't disagree, however my concern is with the gaping cavity at the base left behind, and closed off with grout. Won't water seep through and collect in that gap creating a potential cesspool? Couldn't one just fill that cavity with waterproof caulk sealant to eliminate to gap all together?

The messaging is a bit confusing on this. Your video description says this: "Do NOT set your wallboard after the liner to push liner folds close to wall" BUT, in the video, the wallboard appears to be doing exactly that, except you have a gap between the liner floor and the wallboard. Which is it? Do you: 1. Put the pan liner first 2. Add the sloped mud bed 3. Add wallboard with a gap so it's not touching the ground 4. Red Guard everything, doubling up on corners and cracks or Does the pan liner somehow sit on top of the wallboard which is what the description implies we should do? If so, how do you ensure a smooth surface to tile on?

This just answered a piece of my puzzle thank you!

This was an excellent HOW TO video!!! I would like to see you do more of these in your current videos even if you have done videos of them before or at least put links to old videos if don't want to do another same HOW TO video. Thank YOU

How do you grout that little bottom gap? Do you make to grout a little more watery so it can get into that 3/4” gap in back of the tile? I’m concerned if I just grout to cover the lines that it will fall out since there is nothing in back of it.

You’ve got the best videos on KZfaq. love watching your stuff. If you’re using red guard how would the pan get wet if it’s doing it’s job?What is the point of not inserting your board into your mud pan if you’re just going to use red guard anyways? Couldn’t you just use Red Gaurd on the pan and walls sealing everything off and making it all waterproof so that the only place for the water to go is down the drain hole? If the red guard does it’s job then there shouldn’t ever be a problem correct?

You actually took the time to answer me?! You really rock man I seriously appreciate you pal

Love your videos and your pride in your work and technical precision, the only thing I wonder about is putting redguard on top of a poured base of sand mix which is supposed to allow water to pass through and is meant to secondarily drain any penetrating water down to a pitched pan liner and to the drain, making its way in through the slot/cut threads of the finish drain piece. Is water supposed to get down to the liner or is that just in case it ever makes its way down that far? (I'm told you have to use sandmix instead of concrete because the sandmix pour allows water to get through the pack and to the pitched liner) I was always told though to skim the entire base with thinset then make sure all the mortar lines go continuously to the drain. Also, if a square drain ever had to be unthreaded for some reason the mortar would have to be busted out around the drain so it could spin, whereas a round drain could just spin out, I work with whatever is preferred, but I do like running my tile over the plastic of a round drain, then, with longer stainless steel screws, set the round drain plate over the tiles for a clean look. Any rough edges on the stainless plate have to be sanded smooth though. Not sure why the drains don't just come that way, to have a smooth finish plate over the tile cuts ? For the walls I like a vapor barrier over the studs and over the pan liner running up the wall. I Iike the studs notched 1/4" in the corners so the membrane doesn't cause a bow in the walls where it is folded, then durarock screwed over the barrier and like you show off the poured base. I like 2x12 blocking between the studs sonic can secure the wallboard solid at the bottom, every 8," 8" off the floor, which I think if people did that they wouldn't be tempted to rely on the poured base to make the wallboard solid against movement. I do think they also put it down before pouring because it's easy to get a level grade line on a board then on a rubber membrane, which is why I also glue my membrane to the perimeter blocking and up and over the curb after also applying a good coat of the membrane adhesive to the wood, then it stays tight and you can snap some nice red snap lines in it. I make a level reference line 10" up the wall before I begin, which I use for my preliminary pour to establish a pitch for the membrane to the drain, , measure down and snap my lines. Then after installing the membrane I just work level from my leveled drain to my furthest point and figure 1/4" higher on the wall for foot of run, and make a mark on the membrane on the wall. Then i just measure down from my reference line, which is easier than trying to mark the underside of a level 2" off the floor. Also leveling the drain with the drain in is important, if the drain base is leveled, because of thread pitches, the final install of the drain will be out of level, in which case the upper portion of the drain base plate will have to be shimmed evenly all around to relevel the finished drain piece. With a round drain the plate can sit on top of the tile and though the threads are pitched, the final outcome is a drain plate always perfect with the floor. Also, I fill my silicone my seams and corners between wallboard and set mesh tape, then when dry skin coat with thinset and drag my tile lines on the wall, then back butter the tile. I've removed tile on a job for a plumber around a valve and the red waterproofing liner came off the wall like a fruit rollup, taking tiles off the wall with it, whereas the tile adhesive to the liner was good, that left me thinking waterproofing behind a cement board offered the best tile bond to the wall while preventing and sweating of the masonry tile board, maybe 1/4" hardi is better with blocking moisture that could come through. I hate denshield unless it's a little bit of tile just above a fiberglass surround, since any sheetrock product just pushes in behind the tile in the event you have to take any off the wall down the road, and if it ever gets wet it's ruined or moldy

Finally a video showing it done correctly

You mentioned at the end not to back butter the last wall tile on the bottom so that it doesn't get into that opening. Why is that? Does it make the thinset in that gap susceptible to mold or rot? Thanks !

Hey Bob! Do not want to start off on a wrong foot. I like all the songs you play in the intro. And to get to the matter, There is red guard applied and water does not pass through that to get to the wall board. What do you say to that?

It can touch with the proper pre-slope and a waterproof membrane. The amount of moisture with a correct slope will never wick up the cement board even with durroc.

Your proud of your work..... And you should be. Nicely done bud.🙂

I'm surprised nobody talks about the importance of a really strong framing and subfloor around your shower. I have seen brand new showers failed because framing was weak, specially around subfloor, creating cracks on shower pan and eventually leaks.

About how far up from the ground would you lift your backerbord like a 1/2 inch? Love your work! I’m a young lady and your videos truly are AMAZING!!

only reason i can figure people put the wall board first, then pan is the ease of making the level line for the floor.. which is the way i was taught so many years ago. the guy that taught me this? tile is all he did. mud walls too. does that make a difference? in any event, i retired from remodeling. getting old and make jewelry boxes nowadays. but i'm helping my kid do a shower. i used the floor first method, i see it makes sense. i ask about the red guard.. would you use it on hardi board and a mud floor too? looks like it is some pretty awesome stuff..

THANK YOU YODA!!! Long story short, I just bought a $170k house with INSANE MOLD ISSUES! 3 main areas and 1 of them was a DIY shower done HORRIBLY wrong. SOOOO much more horrible than any on your channel. I mean...this guy can't be beat. I have documented everything and will be taking him to court - all the damage comes out to $50k, 6 weeks so far of my time (I am unemployed now), and a LOOOOOT of demo and documentation on my part. I just started calling around for contractors to resolve all the issues. Now I KNOW what to look for when they tile the bathrooms - they MUST use that red stuff!!!! Thank you for all your videos!!! ~JJ

Great videos Bob. When I get rich, I will remember you! Thx! Lot of hacks out there folks. This guy know what he is doing!

I've never done it this way in all my many years. But i gotta say i like your theory.

Hi again, thanks for the speedy reply. The wall tile meeting the floor tile on pan, how much gap do you allow for Grout, or would you advise Caulk. Do you grout corners also ?? Thanks again.

You are saving me thousands of dollars! Thanks for the videos!

Your workis nothing shy of stellar! Thank you for posting such great videos!!

Thanks. Good info. What material is your wallboard? Drywall, greenboard, Durock? What is your board of choice?

Thanks for sharing many of your insightful videos! I agree with the principle of getting the wall board off the pan to eliminate wicking. However, with this approach, the bottom 1/4" or so grout for the wall tile is unsupported - does this create problems where the grout will deteriorate over time ? My concern is that I am installing subway tile on the vertical and I have many grout vertical grout lines that will hit the floor, will there be missing grout in the future since the bottom bit of grout is unsupported behind? Thanks again!

How do you attach the backboard to the vinyl liner on the walls without putting screws/hole in the liner ?

Thanks for all the great videos.....it’s obviously a labor of love!!! I have a question about Densshield backer board. A lot of timers in Our area (Southern AZ) are using it. It lends itself well to you method of keeping wallboard off the pan. However, Densshield (DS) Manufacturer says to run some of pan mortar up the wall, then stop bottom of DS just short of that small mortar strip and silicone caulk between DS and top of that mortar strip (hope I explained that well enough. What do you think of using DS in general and this method of having to run a small mortar strip 2”-6” above top of pan? Seems unnecessary to me?

Great video !! Maybe I have overlooked a video somewhere or haven't come across it yet, but how far down do you screw in the wallboard? Looks like it screws into the pan liner and maybe silicone in the screw holes and then get coats of RedGard? Thanks for all you do

Did you say once you can do regular cement on top of the floor UP TO the PVC liner? Like regular cement, PVC liner, then your mortar set to level and slope, then thinset and tile? or does it have to be mortar above cement, below pvc liner?

I agree about the wallboard, but I do my pan and curb out of the same mortar at the same time..

That seems like a lot of room for water to pool up and stay inside that gap. Or should I look at this like weep holes on a brick wall install? Thanks for all your support!

This are really great videos. I appreciate your perfection. You don't play. You do it right. Much respect!

why not fill the gap with grout caulk ? or some water proof construction adhesive?

Oatley says in their instructions to install the wallboard 1” off the pvc liner before the mortar bed is down. Maybe that has something to do with why so many people put the wall board down in the mortar. Never made sense to me so I’ve never done it that way

ok so wall board is not into pan..but wall 2 by 4 sill plate and blcoking is still there behind redguard??? framing member behind membrane, wall board would be behind membrane? i dont see your idea as the missing link...help me understand sir

maybe this was already asked , I have a concrete slab and wood stud walls going to do mud bed and cement board on the walls , what is the procedure for that. Thanks for any info

If you bury the Duroc wall into the pan and than cover everything with redguard, how does the water penetrate the wall?

What if (after the shower is done and in use) the drain clogs with hair or whatever and you wind up with 2-3 inches of water in the bottom of the shower? Wouldn't the water reach the wallboard (and wick) then? I think I will redguard the bottom edges of the wall board and even about curb height on the backside of the wallboard. I guess if you caulk the seam where the wall tile comes down to the floor tile it wouldn't be as likely either.

So you did a concrete floor? I assume in that gap on the wall behind the wall board is a rubber liner?... so the redguard will stick fine to the rubber liner?

Is the redguard at the ends of the pan actually on thr pan liner, where thr floor tile goes under the backer board?

Couldn’t you just coat front, back and bottom of wall board with red guard about a foot up and let dry then install staying a inch or two from pvc liner and have floor mud help tighten the backer board? Shouldn’t be any wicking up the wall then ?

The information is great, the music in the background is very distracting and irritating, lol.

Do you recommend putting red guard on the wall board all the way up? Also the floor as well? Thanks

Since your redgarding wouldn't this kinda be irrelevant since your shower pan will never see water? So therefore your wall board won't either even if it was in contact with the mortar? At 2 coats of redgard its rated as a shower pan so it won't allow water to pass at all. I think you do really good work so not trying to critique just actually wanting your thoughts on that.

Sorry this isn’t related to pan liners but I was hoping to get your recommendation on ceramic tile sealer. One that hopefully doesn’t change the color of my grout. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you!

What's the reason you don't want thin set filling the gap under the bottom wall tile? I think it was the tile master guy who said he fills that gap with thin set? Why don't you is it bad to do that? Will it cause issues in the future?

Thank you for the video. It seems you painted the floor with red guard as well. You don’t think it would create a sandwich effect between red guard and the liner? By trapping any possible moisture? Thanks a lot.

So at 3:41 where it has that gap between the wall tile and the floor tile, so you eventually grout that gap in too? Or you silicone that gap?

not all homes are the same. i live in a late 1800's victorian 2 story with flooded crawl space and the bathroom is next to a exterior load bearing wall. no insulation in the walls at all so every wall/floor joist constantly expanding contracting throughout the year from severe humidity to -35* dewpoints in the winter.

Tell them again....lol didn’t think they heard you.... good video..cause people don’t know this..

So what do you do with the gap where the wall tile meets the floor tile? Is it supposed to be grouted or filled with silicone where the tiles meet? Or do you leave the gap open so that water flows in and out? Thank you!

Ok so i ran my wall board through my subfloor and into the attic, gonna go go for the pan next!

So I had to leave out of state, so let my brother finish my bathroom project, he’s been flipping houses for 10 yrs. I came home to find out that he used green board drywall for my stand up shower, but mentioned to me it would work if I redgard the whole shower, it has its shower bed shower Liner. So my question is that correct to use that green board drywall? I’ve always thought to use cement board as a shower wall water proof barrier then tiling of course need opinion before tearing down drywall?

I'm curious how the water wicks up the wallboard when everything is covered in waterproofing

Bob, how thick of a gap for say 5/16 mosaic? Thanks for the educational videos. Getting geared up to do my own neo angle shower and corner tub in my log cabin.

How are you keeping your backer board / durrock/ whatever, tight to the studs/keeping backer board plum without putting screw holes in the pan liner...and especially with the corner folds of the pan liner if I had to guess, everyone has there way of doing things but screw holes on the inside of a shower curb and screw holes from the bottom of pan liner up 12" is not good.... either way it looks good and your way or my way they all basically last the same amount of time ...but all in all great work.....

Great video. Is that grout or silicon or something else between the floor tile and the wall, at wall-tiling part towards the video's end? Thanks.

Good video. What if there is a drain block or water testing by keeping water 3" for4 hours in the pan? Will the water not climb on the backer board and create wicking or does Redgurad do the sealing?

Is wish you would’ve done a part 2 . What do you seal the bottom with ?? Just grout??????