The MMU2 just got support in Marlin 2.0 for all printers. So now we don’t need an i3 to use it!

The only man on YT with the balls to make a MMU2 video! Good job Chris! This is the best tips I could offer too

Chris, this was VERY helpful... I went from almost not printable to 24 hours of non interruptions. Thank you for putting this together. I found a one more big item I wished you covered. If you get flashing RED and Green Lights during prints it means there are issues with the connection back to the prusa. I separated the wires, routed then along the Frame with e-tape. Solved the issues.. Will share this video with anyone having issues with their MMU. Thank you!

Great content! I love how you include just enough information without talking on forever. Very helpful!

Thank you for your video. I was about to throw out the MMU2S because I was so frustrated with it and I normally don't quit. Your video helped me dial in the settings and I was able to create my first print.

Chris, thank you so very much. Excellent video, no-nonsense, to the point; love the way you run through this. I had my MMU2s set up yesterday for the first time and went through all the typical failures. Having had the i3MK3s for more than a year helped somewhat to figure out some of the issues myself, but your expert advice goes a long way to get me to successful operation of the MMU2 and I look forward to work myself through your advice step by step, particularly to the Secret Menu (I guess it will still be available in the MMU2*s*). One other thing I´ll be adding next week is a 5V LED to to the IR sensor, to verify it triggering without scrolling through the menu. Take care and stay safe! Chris

Great work as always, I have to say this is the most underrated 3D printer KZfaq channel .

Chris, your channel is the gold standard for all things Prusa, especially the MMU2. I don't know if I will ever find the time to get mine going reliably enough to just leave it in place and stop switching back and forth from single to multi, as this thing is a real challenge. Your knowledge and the way you have of presenting it is outstanding. Chipping in a few bucks for your time and effort, hopefully will be able to throw a bit more in down the road, just to say thanks.

These tricks helped me getting my MMU2S working. I will have a video out about it soon!

Hi Chris. Just a short note of thanks - this video more than any other informed my MMU2s build and setup. Filament quality, gear tension (in MMU and extruder) and fastidious attention to the tubes and build have resulted in a very solid unit for me - Thankyou for the pointers. R

Thanks for making the least boring most informative video I’ve seen

I also found out that a ruby nozzle is going to prevent you from getting a good tapered tip. The ruby nozzle is flat on the inside, not tapered like a brass nozzle. I fought my MMU2 for 3 weeks after I first got it until I put my stock brass nozzle back on. Once I did that my tips were a lot better. And when I made a change in the slicer settings, I noticed a change in the filament tips. Whereas before when I had the ruby nozzle on, I would make a change in the slicer settings, and I wouldn't see any changes to the filament tips. So if your having problems with filament tips, and using a ruby nozzle, try a brass nozzle and see if that helps.

I just got an mmu2 printer upgrade. This video was my first to watch after assembling :)

i've no Prusa and no MMU2 ... but this video is a WOW !!! Perfect explanation !

Thanks for the easy to understand tips on getting your MMU2 to work successfully. I have been doing my head in with failed prints so I will go back to the beginning and check and recheck using your your advise. Hopefully I will have success and start enjoying my printing experience again. Cheers :)

Best video for MMU2 maintenance hands down. Super thorough. Thanks man!

Best MMU2 video I have seen. Thanks so much for this.

Now that’s a great video. Maybe it will help folks from having MMU frustrations, and lead to multicolor happiness!

one of the few MMU 2.0 videos out in the wild, looking forward to see some more when you get the MMU 2.0S upgrade.

I just assembled my MK3S and MMU2S and looking forward to multifilament printing. This video was very informative. Thanks !

Great video! Extremely informative about actually using the MMU. I have read the assembly manual, and I love that you've explained factors that will actually help in using the unit.

Thanks for the great video, I've been considering the MMU2 for a while and you've given me the confidence to go ahead and get one.

This will be very helpful as my MMU 2.0 is still not fully assembled yet, Thanks for making this !!!

Thanks Chris this video has made me more confident to start using my mmu2.

I keep coming back to this video as it is so good and has helped me recalibrate when I changed Bowden length. Brilliant stuff! 😊

Best video I found for the MMU2, nice job man. We want a new one for the MMU2S, that would be awesome

Great tips as always Chris. Thanks!

A full bag of tips. Thanks a lot.

Wonderful video! Jam-packed with useful information, succinct and to the point.

Great videos and I enjoy the live streams also. Takes a great deal of work.

New to your channel. Great job! Great tips! A solidly filmed, planned and executed instruction video. Thank you. I'm looking at the Prusa and possibly the mmu. High Five!

I wanted one of these. I'm glad that I learned more about it first. I'll stick with a cyclops if I upgrade to multi color printing.

Good tips, it helps a lot. Thanks Chris!

Really nice video! Mine ships in April, can't wait!

Hey Chris, Awesome advice and tips. Although I'm a big Prusa fan (sounds like a spare part lol) I only have a MK2 and obviously no MMU. For me it's not something I am particularly into. I definitely still enjoy all your videos though. I do have a Sigma if I want to do dual colour/material, but even that rarely get's used lately.

Before I bought the printer, I watched your video and was skeptical. I print now for 2 months with Prusa i3 Mk3s MMU2S, everything is going great for me. You do not need to set anything on the MMU2S. If you have set everything correctly according to instructions and assembled, the correct firmware has been updated, everything works perfectly. I print with ABS, nylon, carbon and PETG and have no problems with different materials when changing material. I think you can delete the part with "fumble around at the MUMU" because it causes confusion.

I also found out that a warping purge block can add to filament end stringing. I would have a print start out great, and have no filament strings on any of my tips. But an hour or two into the print I would start to get strings. I also noticed that my purge block was warping up in the back. I wouldn't think that these two issues would be related, but they are. If the purge block warps up, it's pressing up against the nozzle, when the nozzle goes through the ramming sequence and pulls the filament up to break the string, there is no vacuum break and filament from the purge block gets pulled up into the nozzle. I started using a glue stick on the purge block area of the bed, and now I no longer get warping on my purge block, and my filament tips are perfect throughout all my print.

Great Video Chris. This just confirms I will never get an MMU.

Chris - your videos are very informative! Thank you for sharing your amassed knowledge! I just subscribed to your channel!

love this video Chris :) just set my mine up and its working great cheers

I personally recommend filament within .03 or .02, prusa sells it, and many other brands (I found a local brand that had .02 .03 tolerances and we're cheap

Impressive test walk though Thanks for sharing😀👍

How you only have 20K subscribers is beyond me.

Nice Video. Thank for posting

Really really great video.

thanks Chris great video, I use most of these but will add the pass through to my mmu

Hello Chris, Great video!! This is my next printer purchase! I had to wait until most of the bugs were out of it!

Would be nice to show how to adjust the gears? Also, show how to get the FINDA feeder piece to move freely.

I thought I was gonna get a Auto Rewinder Filament holder mention there for a minute, but it was not to be!

Dude.. this is an awesome video.

This was very helpful. Need a link to this video direct from the manual!

Good informative video.

If the two screws that hold the back cover on are under spring tension doesn't that mean that the filament is also under spring tension as opposed to being held by two fixed bars?

Thanks for the help!

Great video as always. Did you try TheZeroBeast mmu2 firmware? Also Slic3r ++ from supermerill added some nice features to the prusa Slic3rPE like automatic waste tower calculation based on the pigment/opacity. Saw the MK3S is coming with new IR sensor, steel ball and magnet... Guess this is the attempt to get more realible filament sensing at the extruder.

Thanks for this

Excellent thanks

Use the capercorn tube or thr clone of same from triangle labs on aliexpress

Great Video.. Thank You.

Chris, awesome vid!! I noticed that you don't the filament tower on your extruder (8:15) and you use the mod directly onto the extruder. Did you change the internal parts as in the manual?

Thanks awesome tips !

Chris, can you have a go at a a similar video for differences with the MMU2s?

Hey Chris, what is your take on the waste tower issue? Does it waste a lot? Have you heard of a filament bucket/dump instead of a tower?

Great Video, I am getting ready to print the 5 color test soon with my MMU2S, giving this is 4 years old and they have since changed some design features, is there anything in this video that is not relevant anymore? Thanks for all your hard work and great videos!

Hoping this can help me, I just built a MMU2S and have been very frustrated by it.

Hi Chris , thanks for the detailed info abt MMU2. I concider to buy a MK3S with MMU or the Mosaic Palette Pro, I got 5 Printers and could use the Palette 2 for all my printers, while the MMU is only for Prusa :-) You have had both of them, which would be your favorite choice?

Thanks Chris...great tips and tricks......been wondering if you have vids on PVA or flex amterial issues/troubleshooting ? In particular......blobbing issues when using flex or PVA when initially starts extruding. I get no transversing happening and when the blobbing happens I have no alt but to cancel print. Your help would be greatly appreciated :-) I just recently purchased Prusa i3 MK3 + MMU2S Cheers

So 8:34 is for the MMU2 not the MMU2S, right? The MMU2S doesn't have this configuration anymore.

This is an excellent video. I too have an MMU 2.0 and I've got a few tips to share as well now that I've gotten mine to 100% reliability (seriously) and I've even got it working with flexible filament! Use this PTFE pass-through back plate: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579 Why: The stock back plate squishes the PTFE tubes resulting in too much friction. Bonus feature: This mod makes it *super* easy to disconnect the PTFE tubes to relocate your printer (e.g. for maintenance or just to take it somewhere). Just press the collet down and pull out the PTFE. Takes 2 seconds! Love it. Insertion afterwards is even easier. Use this "Large Bore" MMU 2.0 selector and print it at 0.1mm layer height: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337120 Why: The stock selector's intake hole is far too small (and not even tapered!) and that part is printed at .2mm layer height... If you cut filament tips with nice, sharp flush cutters like me this means that the tip will have a *super* pointy end (like Prusa recommends) and that pointy end will often get stuck on the outside of the selector *or* it will be pushing up against those .2mm layer lines (which are *not* smooth--they're quite rough; I assume because Prusa is printing a zillion of these a day at rather high speeds) which causes far more friction than you'd think. By having a larger (tapered) opening and printing at 0.1mm layer height you'll have a selector that's *super smooth* and gently guides the filament the way it's supposed to with very little friction. Also, I highly recommend you print it with some *transparent* PETG which is much slicker (more slippery) than the black PETG Prusa gives you for printing the parts. Dark pigments can give printed PETG a considerably rougher surface! For reference, I printed mine in eSun Transparent Blue (www.thingiverse.com/make:596801) Use that tapering tool Chris recommended in his video to taper *both* ends of the "short" PTFE tubes in the front of the MMU 2.0 unit. The MMU 2.0 ships with just one side of those tubes being tapered and the manual says to insert them with the tapered end facing outwards (which doesn't *seem* to make sense but one of Prusa's engineers says it's to aid with retracting rammed filament tips). Having *both* sides of those short tubes tapered means there's less of a chance that a sharp (extra pointy) filament tip will get caught on the edge as it comes out of the hobbed gear and into the selector.

that is a great review, I am new to the 3dprinting thing and I never own or work on one of them. but I am so excited to buy my first 3dprinter with a budget of 1000 euro and I am really lost and confused. I was just about purchasing the Prusa MK3S DIY kit till I found something scared me a little bit. I am a communication engineer, so I can judge only on some electronic components. I am not a big fan of the EINSY RAMBo motherboard which based on "Arduino Mega". I believe all those boards are not designed for a pro user or heavy tasks/load which could generate unwanted heat that leads the board to produce un accurate printing. I like those boards just for small projects. I was excepting an advanced motherboard and this what scared me and push for watching more reviews. but maybe I am wrong about all of that and maybe this board is performing as it designed for. any advice would be appreciated

Just a minor correction: You called the MMU 2.0's PTFE tubes "Bowden tubes". Not a single bit of the MMU 2.0 is Bowden. They're just PTFE "feeding" tubes. A Bowden tube is a very specific thing: PTFE going from the extruder to the hot end. That's it. Anything else is just a regular PTFE tube. The MMU 2.0 uses a direct-drive extruder so there's no Bowden to speak of.

Man i’m having a hard time doing the MMU PTFE tube calibration. The menu isn’t doing what is supposed to. Boot up holding the centre button, left button then enter. But then when i press enter again it doesn’t respond and after a few seconds just resets...

Thanks for the video - very helpful getting things dialed in from the start. As of today, the current firmware on the MMU2s is 1.0.6. Does this secret menu still work the same way for calibrating length to the extruder? I am using the bear extruder, which may be part of the issue, but when I went through the process, it fed the filament quite a bit farther past the extruder, all the way to the nozzle it seemed like. I ran it back so it is setup as you show in the video, but the middle button wouldn't save settings at the end of the process with selector at the far right. More importantly, the mmu pushed the filament much too far for lane 2 on my first test print. Can you confirm 1.0.6 works the same way?

Hey Chris, thx for the tips just received my used Mmu2s. Where did you get the tool (deburrer) for the PTFE tubes ?

Ive tried that sequence over and over again and it does not work at all. I think maybe something changed ?

Chris love your videos! I printed that piece that you recommend for the top of the extruder but i cant seem to figure how to mount it on mine. will it still work with my printer? I have the i3 MK3S+. thanks!

Hey Chris, following your steps on the "Secret Menu". When I load the filament and hit the center button, why did my filament not go all the way to the extruder? What am I missing?

Hi Chris, still trying to get set up here, after 1st layer calibration the filament balls up and won't retract, I have to remove the fista and use pliers to get it out. You seemed to be changing cooling moves and ram using Slic3r, how were you able to "resume printing"? Did you have to upload the model again? How can I make those adjustments for first layer when there isn't a model?

So this video is going on a year old, have there been enough improvements to the MMU2 to warrant a purchase?

bowden setup, five of them, five rolls of filament in cmykw, 5 into one nozzle, bam, REAL full range colour printing. tried building it myself, but nothing supports it.

Hey Chris, I have the MK3 with MMU 2.0 and I am trying to print some NinjaFlex for the first time today. I am having problems with the filament getting to the hotend, it loads and even gets the filament to the hotend when it first starts but after that it does not seem to be able to pull the filament enough to get it to print. I cant even see the spool turning once the actual print is started and that corresponds with lack of filament coming out of the hotend, the gears turn but nothing seems to happen past that. Have you been able to get any shore 85a flexible filament through your setup?

I love the Prusa Printers, but this thing is so badly constructed. In Terms of durability. Also the Printparts are printed way to fast with too much layer hights.

Probably a dumb question but how quickly can you swap the MMU2 on and off the printer? Or I guess a better quesiton might be, is the MMU2 kinda permanent oince you install it or are you able to take it off and on as needed?

Does Prusa MMU2 make purge block when printing solubles too? Worth paying 300euros for only printing solubles?

Do you think that this would be able to be used on a matterhackers pulse xe?

Hello, did anything happen on connecting a MMU2 to any other printer then original Prusa like an ordinary Rampsboard? Thank you

Chris, can you please share your Slic3r profile for MMU2. Would love to have my first successful print.

I can't get the wipe tower to print properly at all. I have the hardware running great but every time I try the lizard, the wipe tower is waaaay too fast and just balls up on the nozzle.

Hey, :) Thx. Bursting complexities. Geeetech A10M alternative? Anyways, questions. High temp? If so, how high?

Where can I find the stl files to print that clever gadget, attached to the wire spool holder included in the delivery to the PRUSA printer to prevent the wire from getting stuck during retraction? Thanks Marco from Switzerland

MMU2 can work like Bowden?? Or only paired with the director?

You been able to get PVA soluble to work threw mmu2

Is there anything crazy you have to do with Octoprint or does it just continue to work?

The Extruder tube mod: link seems to not be working currently. can you update it?

Hi Chris, I’m considering buying the mmu2 for my MK3 but wondered if there’s space to attach it when using the Lack enclosure?

Chris thanks for the tips, I know they will same me some headaches. Notice the tube coupler is out of stock, is there a suitable sub you can suggest?

prove to me mmu2 is better than just painting it manually

hi there that arm u showed on the filament trays do u know where i can get one please

Does anyone know where to get a replacement blade? I lost mine.

I've seen some buffer for the filament is that option with the mmu available now?