that look like chipboard to me and in fact I think it was more like modified cardboard with how easy it peeled. at that point they would have been better off just leaving the only I'm drivers in there and just doing a slight tune.

I bought an amp from them many years ago . They were still selling ADS at that time. Lol

They used to be good in the 90’s

That’s quality 🤦🏻‍♂️

I call this job security :-)

I don’t! This level of shit shouldn’t happen!

@@pssound9749 Agreed. Haha

actually, factory wires are just perfect, would prefer them over a cheap cca wire. and then in most of the new cars you can't run extra wires in the doors, the door harness plug is so packed that you can't run a single wire through it.

😂😂

there's this Australian breakfast cereal that looks a lot like MDF or chipboard I'm pretty sure it was one of those instead. I'm pretty sure if we had some milk it would make some really good cereal

He did go to a reputable big shop where he spent big money! That’s the real upsetting issue! 🤨

Check out the Tuning playlist please.

You always have to seal the inside of the door and deaden all vibrating parts, plus isolate the doorcard.

I appreciate the support, but you have to understand few things: 1. Playing music is in conflict with copyrights. 2. This was supposed to be an easy & quick tune. I wasn’t planning to record anything until we found the nightmare under the doorcards. 3. You could see how long day we had. No other shop would have done all this in a single day, so when we were taking the last recording at 10pm, trust me, both me & the owner wanted to be getting on the road and going home, so playing music to keep youtubers happy wasn’t on the list. 4. I share plenty of demo videos where i play music. Check out the teaser and first impression videos. 30% of the videos i upload have demo music in them, but i can’t do that for every single one of them due to copyrights. Thanks for your understanding! 🙏

@@pssound9749To be honest I wasn't thinking about No.1 up to this moment, at all! :) And aldo my comment sounded more like a request, it was more like a thought in my head, at the time, than a request. I also stayed many times at the workshop until late and not one time i took a camera in my hand, let alone uploaded a video, so i do understand! Thanks for sharing information and knowlege.

The Stinger fast rings actually do FA unfortunately- being open cell foam. Some guys make their own with CCF. Soundskins makes CCF ones but they're stupid expensive.

Some people mentioned that KZfaq has been shit lately. Try to watch it after 12/24hours and it should be 1080p.

It’s 1080p for me, give it another try.

Mic is a valuable tool, but it needs an operator.

I've got a couple calibrated mics I've used in DIY home audio applications. Learning a lot from this channel.

Helix doesn’t sell anything anymore, but it was the same unit from Nav-TV, the Zen-V indeed. I’m not 💯 sure what was done in this…unless it’s shown in the video.

@@pssound9749 Thanks. Appreciate it! I’ll have to order a Zen-v for my RS3. I hate this B&O system. I was a huge Focal guy, but might do Audio Frogs now. The GB series. Have heard great things about them.

What American installer?

@@Dee-du8tn I'm pretty sure it was an installer who swapped in ahelix v eight mk2 or v twelve into a customer's Accord but re watching I'm not 100% sure it was the installer/tuner I'm thinking of. Given that Peter has not mentioned said installers name I'm even more unsure.

O sorry, I recognized it. It’s the SS652C woofer!Newer model. Actually the woofers of the two way with the wide band.

Not when we finished at 22:15 that day! 🤦🏻🥲

You have to seal everything, there’s no ways around it.

@@pssound9749 But if you seal all the access ports, the door isn't serviceable if, say, the latch mechanism or some of the actuators need to be replaced. And even then it wont be sealed because the window rolls down and opens a slit at the top of the door and some models have drain plugs to let water seep out of the door in case moisture collects if the window is not fully closed when it rains or there is a crack in weatherstripping. Maybe instead put the driver in a sealed enclosure and put that into the door?

@@robertsussland1876 you just solved it! 💪🏼👌🏼🔊🔊

It would have been good to see what the Focals do properly installed. But pretty sure Peter knows these drivers and what he's doing. And looks like that 250 crossover is great.. Do you really want the mids pushing 200? I don't think so. Um No One or Number one? big difference. lol

If you have watched the video properly, you would have understood that the Focal 6.5” just doesn’t fit even with spacers. You’d need more than an inch spacer, but by then there would be no clearance from the doorcard. Also, the application is ported and the Focal specs are ideal for door application, which is rather IB. You’re just talking “maybe” and assume things. “Blending” as such doesn’t depend on using same speaker brands, but the clever use of speakers in the right applications. You and most people judge with your eyes, i work from experience using physics and science. I’m happy to be nobody in this game, we’re doing just fine building some of the best sounding cars on a global scale and getting beautiful clients to work with. Thank you for your input, it’s been lovely to learn from you! 👍

REW.

But that driver did not fit because of depth, so… 🤷🏻‍♂️

@David Bolbochan If they are Peaks, you are lucky and you would simple CUT those specific frequencies, preferably using targeted PEQ with a good DSP. In addition, sometimes underlapping the Crossovers between your drivers can help to achieve a smoother response in that region, but Crossovers also affect the phase within the X/O region, so care must be taken here as well. The most important thing to get right is the Phase & Frequency Response WITHIN Each Crossover Region between any set of drivers that are playing adjacent bandwidths. And the fact of the matter is, you cannot achieve DYNAMIC and Lifelike/Realistic sound reproduction UNLESS you can provide a Very Smooth & Even Frequency Response from both the Left and Right speakers and your subwoofer *at your listening position* Sometimes achieving this goal of smooth and even FR takes minimal EQ work, and other times it requires A LOT of EQ! If MORE EQ provides a Smoother and More Even Frequency Response, then it will ALSO provide more Lifelike and Dynamic sound. Yes it is nice to be able to use as little EQ as possible, but that is rarely the case, especially in a small and highly reflective automotive acoustical environment. As in your case, there may be ACOUSTIC issues that no amount of EQ will fix. That is when the speakers or How AND Where they are installed will need to be changed to provide a better ACOUSTICAL Response that has less severe Cancellations (suck outs) and Peaks...at your listening position. ALL systems in an automotive environment will have *some* amount of unavoidable Peaks and Cancellations. The goal is to minimize these by using the best possible speaker locations within the vehicle, along with proper Crossovers, T/A, levels, and EQ. Mounting midwoofers (midrange/midbass) drivers in the doors is a double-edged sword. On one hand, the doors provide one of the widest mounting positions available in most vehicles, and the width of the physical placement of the midrange drivers ultimately has the most influence on how WIDE or Narrow your Soundstage will be overall. As an example, assuming that your listening position does not change, think about placing your home stereo speakers only 3 feet apart, or placing them 6 feet to 8+ feet apart. Which will provide a wider Soundstage??? Due to the usual ~5ft to ~6.5ft Physical Distance BETWEEN the two midwoofers that are usually mounted in the left & right front doors, and the actual Wavelengths of the Midbass Frequency Region, the door locations will cause multiple deep cancellations (nulls) & sometimes strong Peaks in the response. In the case of Cancellation Nulls in the response, usually No Amount of EQ will fix those! You can't boost a cancellation null. You will just be needlessly overdriving the speakers and pushing your amplifiers into distortion & clipping with no benefit because (acoustically) the speakers are out-of-phase and cancelling each other's efforts out. The acoustical environment and/or a speaker or both speakers need to be physically moved to a location where the cancellation(s) do not occur...at your listening position. The physical distance between the two front door speakers (or reflections off of other nearby boundaries) cause the speakers to essentially be playing Out-Of-Phase At Those Particular Frequencies, which create the cancellation nulls and some adjacent corresponding peaks. These nulls and peaks at the listening position can also be caused by the floor-to-ceiling distance, and/or a large & obstructive center console between the two front seats, as well as the shape and size of the footwells on each side. Ideally, we would mount our midbass speakers in the deep forward and far left and right corners of the kickpanels/footwells, which increases the boundary- or corner-loadiing and "cabin gain" (transfer function) of the midbass frequencies in the cabin, and also reduces the MULTIPLE boundaries that can cause more cancellation nulls and peaks. But mounting the midbass drivers in the kickpanels usually requires significant custom work and fabrication in order to provide a proper mount and airspace for them to work effectively. So it's not always feasible and can be a compromise in that regard. Therefore we are left with the next best "easy" mounting location for the midwoofers, which is usually in the front doors. And then we have to deal with those issues and limitations as best we can. Check out a video on the *Erin's Audio Corner* KZfaq channel titled, "Using a Subwoofer to Improve Midbass in Your Car Audio System". Erin demonstrates how your Subwoofer can be used to help "fill in" the unavoidable midbass cancellations that occur in 95% of car audio systems due to door mounted midwoofers/component sets. EDIT: When taking your measurements, make sure you are doing multiple measurements in the area just around your head (at least 8) to create a "spatial average" in the listening position, or use the "moving mic method". Also check *Erin's Audio Corner* on KZfaq for this.

@@bbfoto7248 Top man, Awesome reply

I’m glad that some of you guys help out and answer each others’ questions! 💪🤘❤️

@@bbfoto7248 wow. Thank you. This has to be shared in car audio FB groups.

£300-600 depending on many things, complexity of system, number of different presets required, etc.

Thanks Peter!

English please, i can’t use translation here. 🙏

"The more rigid the mount, the better the bass. The stiffer the speaker box, the better the bass. The smaller the ventilation holes, the clearer the bass".

Where would you put them?

@@pssound9749 behind the mid bass

@@mr.niceguy2524 into the inside of the door? That wouldn’t work. Besides it’s already a ported box.

@@pssound9749 my installer made a new boxes, and it works 😅

Well if the passive radiator is firing inside the door then you're wasting all the bass radiation coming from the passive radiator, it would sound something like a sealed enclosure, that's why it doesn't make much sense.

Yepp 😂😂

You didn’t watch or understand the clearance issues?

Let alone explaining that the T/S specs on the Focal midbass don’t suit the given application. We never use speakers just based on looks, worst thing you can do if you want a great sounding system.

@@pssound9749 Sorry i didnt pick that up .. now i understand it. Thanks for the video's i learn a lot of it. Grt j

I think for that focal he need sealed box and more bigger!

Everywhere! 😃

Helix Mini if only 6 channels are needed, forget anything else or anything cheaper.

@@pssound9749How do you pull the signal out from the B&O system? You use Zen-V or Helix?

@@ryanb8736 Helix used the NAV-TV too, they just sold it for more with their badge on.

No, not this time!

@@pssound9749 Then that's really shameful, i myself are going to let a professional installer help me with my car just because of place and time constraints with two really young children and a wife that also works.. I am really glad i met a guy with a proven trackrecord that will hold my hand and help me with the place and experience..

I’m from as called third world country but living in uk. And can tell you in our country you not allowed to do shit job, people are punctual, works hard and does very good job while in uk it’s really hard to find good specialists. On every corner “plasterers”, “plumbers”, painter, window tinters, audio installers and etc etc but 90% just shithanded persons opened shops to have business.

@@milkman5038 thanks for the info. I won’t use the third world as an example of poor audio installations anymore because I have no idea what goes on there. It’s crazy to me when I see people doing anything half ass. If your going to do something you should do it right, or don’t even bother, I believe

@UL LA RC WRONG. SMH. And FYI Peter is the MASTER of "customizing". He Would have done that if it was the PROPER solution! But If Peter had built a thicker mounting ring or baffle to fit the Focal driver depth-wise inside the OEM ported enclosure, then the FRONT of the Focal driver would have protruded too far forward, and the cone and surround of the speaker would then hit or press up against the OEM speaker grill, which would obviously damage it AND provide shitty sound! That would be unprofessional as well! You have to take into consideration and leave room for the forward excursion of the speaker cone and surround when it is playing heavy midbass, and that it would have hit the OEM speaker grill in the door when playing the system, potentially damaging an expensive driver AND also creating horrible noise. This is one reason why the original installers *tried* to use very thin 1/4" MDF or Masonite board in the first place (unsuccessfully). But the Focal driver was simply too deep for this application without having the time and $$$ to fabricate a Entirely New custom enclosure or mounting solution. 1/4" MDF was probably the only material that the other shop had on-hand that was thin enough to "let's just MAKE it fit", instead of waiting and acquiring a better material to construct the baffle properly and using a shallower driver as Peter did. And as Peter demonstrated, even with a thin, custom mounting baffle, the Focal drivers were too deep for these particular OEM enclosures. Without significant time and $$$ to fabricate a completely custom enclosure or mounting solution for these doors, the ONLY option was to use a shallower midbass driver for the time being.

Thank you for making it clearer. Some people just can’t see the forest beyond the tree and call me unprofessional…WTF 🤦🏻😂 Also, some real professionals don’t just sell/use speakers by the look, but actually understand the T/S parameters, which also indicate that the Focal is not suitable in the ported box…but heyhoo, what do i know about sound quality in cars, right? 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@bbfoto7248 the focal mid would not protrude if it was mounted out further with a thicker spacer, Peter did mention that there is enough room to clear, so stop being a dumb ass. And if the enclosed space was opened, the focal mid would sound great.

@@ULSB1969 Peter said there was enough room to clear the grill with the NEW speakers. Can you explain how your magic spacer would be thicker to move the magnet further away from the obstruction behind it, but somehow not move the surround of the speaker out towards the grill?

@@sashaghovanlou8175 I don’t need to explain how a thicker spacer works, if you have not customized speakers on car doors then you would not understand, and if you have, then there is no need to explain. the

Also .. Factory 6 inch sub going down to 27Hz? Hmmmmn really?

Hi, You’re welcome to pop in and listen to our cars and show yours too. There’s no magic in tuning, indeed, just hardly anyone knows how to make cars sound great!

a woman could've done a better job.

No, unfortunately you don’t understand what happened here then. The Focal would never ever fit in the OEM boxes as the speaker is too deep. The previous installer left a big gap and it was performing terribly. Then a different, shallower 6.5” was installed properly, there was no other option without keeping the doorcard looking OEM and fitting correctly. Is it clear now?

@@pssound9749 в России в карты этих дверей без проблем устанавливают Focal, мало того, вы даже не сделали виброизоляцию двери и шумоизоляцию двери.... там дребезг наверное ужасный, в общем я был очень удивлен этим видео... я победитель этапа AMT и я понимаю о чём говорю