Most excellent information my man! I’d even though about trickling a little bit of bentonite through the lay-flat before connecting it up. I was wondering if there was perhaps a bit of a “break in” period as you had suggested. Glad to hear it’ll eventually get better. Thanks so much for the in-insight, I really do appreciate it 🙏

I really enjoy Victory Outdoors. At first when I’d seen the videos were almost an hour long, I thought to myself (who in the hell watches concrete videos for an hour???), then I got into it and the videos fly by quite quickly (or at least much quicker than most of my hour long episodes) 😂😂😂 Ryan does a really great job with that channel. It’s quite a good representation of the daily life of a concrete contractor and the average blue-collar businessman. It’s definitely added some perspective as to the way I look at our business. Keep it manageable, keep it tight= keep it profitable. It ain’t all about the big show, that’s for certain.

You wanna watch a guru in the concrete finish business stamping etc. watch Concrete with the Hauses. That guy does amazing work. Plus he explains everything so finite as he pours and finishes.

@@BZ1340 definitely going to check it out!

Hey Richard, thank you so much for the kind words. We’re fortunate in that even as owners, we still enjoy getting in there and doing the work (it’s quite honestly the most enjoyable aspect of the business. Appreciate you watching the channel and very much appreciate the positive feedback. 🙏🙏🙏

Not a problem you ran a allsome business

I’m guessing it mostly has to do with axle-spacing and weight requirements. I known with the concrete pumps we have a heck of a time getting big-booms on the road around here because our very “unique” axle spacing requirements.

Just water-prime? Or do you use any sort of priming aid?

Typically what I’ll try and do is follow up on the results on a future video. It’s tough because as the pump guy I’m almost always pulling away from site before the concrete is finished.

I honestly think that’s the route I’ll very likely end up going with this setup 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Exactly!!!!!! Being able to lay the concrete gently into the wall like this is so much easier on the formwork, as well as the guys placing the concrete. Few wrinkles to iron out with the lay-flat, but I can see this becoming a staple element to a good percentage of our residential pours. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

One commenter had mentioned that there can be a bit of a “break in period” with lay-flat hoses. I’m going to play around with a few different methods/techniques to see what works best with our mud.

I’d be curious to try a 4” as well. Years ago I was on the hose end of a 4” lay-flat pouring walls. From what I recall, it really didn’t like being pushed around much (would kink super easy). To be fair, it was also from a different manufacturer. I am really surprised/liking how much this 3” can actually be pushed before it kinks. Just need to get the prime situation sorted and I’ll think she’ll be a winner.

I just use water as soon as I hear it fall I turn it all the way down so it doesn’t activate my air cuff

@@nathanhoelscher1798 exact same as what I had done here. I’m wondering if because I’m using a 3” mud-snake it is perhaps more prone to grabbing onto that first bit of rock/sand/water to makes its way through the boom? 🤔🤔🤔

Can’t wait to try it on flat-work. Concrete comes outta that hose like icing going onto a cake!

@@canadianconcretepumper1979 yeah it does

I’m going to try and get more of the start-to-finish type content which you mention. We have the one site which I’ve featured in several videos starting from the boat ramp, all the way up to the most current and final structural pour for the home. I really enjoy going back through the videos and watching these projects from the get go. Really adds perspective as to how much work goes into these builds. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

I’m going to try dousing the lay-flat with a gallon of bentonite prior to connecting it up. It think that’ll do the trick. I actually had a successful 200’ prime with shotcrete using slick-Willy 2 just recently. I it again today with our regular 1/2 stone mix, and it plunged halfway into the second hose. The gel appears to pull all the fines from the mix and leave only the coarse sand and stone remaining in the first slug of material through the hose. I quite honestly get better results just using water. That being said, I’ve had good results priming booms with it. May give it a try with the lay-flat. I’m going to try a few different things which people have mentioned. Lots of very helpful feedback here 🙏🙏🙏

We typically use bentonite on the bigger booms. We try to avoid using it with the smaller booms/residential pours only because it creates a good bit of contaminated concrete which we need to dispose of somewhere. I’ve never yet seen a conclusive answer as to whether gel primer can be pumped directly into structural/finished concrete or not. I do know that our finishers are hesitant to pump it directly into the pour. What have you found in your experience? I would like to try it with the lay-flat in place.

I like where you are going with this. We have short, double-ended 3” hoses which we use for line work. That could be perfect priming through the shorty and then connecting up to the lay-flat as you mention. I think this very well could be the solution to my dilemma. Thank you so much for this (and why in the hell didn’t I think of it myself) 😂😂😂

@@canadianconcretepumper1979that is what I’ve always done when I have to use a trimmy hose is use a double ended 3ft hose and put the air cuff there and bam! No issues ever and can still suck a bucket of water back after you take off the trimmy hose 1st

@@randyanderson1983 similar to what we have done in the past with tremie pours (except typically with a 3” diameter short hose). I was really wanting to avoid the added hose/clamp and just keep it simple. I also do like that the air-cuff works absolutely marvellous I’m conjunction with the lay-flat (vey little shaking of the hose is required to get it completely empty after the cuff has been closed). That’s a really good point you make with regards to still being able to suck back a bucket of water (typically how clean my hose and reducers at the end of the pour) through the short hose. I’m going to experiment with a few different methods. I like yours because there’s no need for primer/contaminating that first bit of mud out the end of the hose. So many options. Great suggestion!!!

Hey Randy! That’s definitely a video which I want to do in the near future. Over the winter I’d like to focus on doing a few discussion type videos. I’m also thinking about re-packaging the discussion portion of when Dan and myself went through the comments from finalists for the Schwing die cast model giveaway. There was some really good stuff in there which I felt perhaps got overlooked. I think a lot of really good discussion topics could be spurred from that series of content.

Very much so I think it would be a fantastic thing to do on all of what you stated can’t wait for more content! I love this stuff

I've used it a few more times recently, and honestly, for the work which we pour with our residential crew, there is some merit to it. I can pour super slow without getting any of the splash which I normally would with a 3" whip-hose, and I do not have the potential issues with plugging that I do with running a 2.5" or 2" hose. I'm going to have to use it a bunch more times and in a few more scenarios before I can really decide. So far, I would say with certainty that it's not for every job, but I do feel like it is worth having on the truck (especially in markets where mix designs aren't conducive to tapering down to a smaller sized conventional hose and reducers). stay tuned....

Most excellent! We often have architectural wall pours in which being able to drop down between the rebar is critical 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

We put our air cuff on a 5” stubby and a 5-4 reducer off that.

@@robertkwiatkowski7802 I’m going to try some something similar, except using a 3” stubby (we keep them on our pumps already for plugging into line work). Definitely sounds like the way to go 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

I’m going to try a few different methods, but my usual water-prime was definitely a no bueno.

Don’t quote me on this, but I believe not. I’ll ask the guys next time I’m at the site and get a definite answer to this one. 👍🏼

That’s actually a very interesting concept 🤔🤔🤔 I’m going to be trying a few different things here and will be sure to document them all on film. Stay tuned….

@@canadianconcretepumper1979 Glad I brought it up. I live in Port Alberni over on the Island. Been doing construction for about 25 years. Never got into the foundation (concrete) side of things to much as there were lots of talented folks that I could rely on. I came across your channel on KZfaq and I'm really impressed with the content on it. Any of the young guns who are considering going into pumping/ placing side of things should be taking notes because I can tell that this is not your 1st rodeo. Finally - Thanks for always running a safe operation and looking out for your workers. Kudos.

@@SuperRede4u I very much appreciate the kind words and support. It’s always great to hear from local BC tradespeople in the comments. Thanks again my man 🙏🙏🙏

We purchased them for Seattle Tarp Company. They have a version which covers from the transition-door all the way up to the deck-pipe. Our local safety authority required the rubber mat over the transition door, which is why we do it that way.

I thought a was going to have soooo much reach…. until I didn’t 😂😂😂

It really depends on the type of work we’ve been doing. Long-line jobs off the end of a boom tend to grout up the swivel gasket at the tip to the point where it needs to be cleaned daily. If we’re pouring mostly just out of the boom, we can go months without having to clean/change the gasket. The added line pressure when pumping through added hose/pipe coupled with the fact that the boom stays mostly in the same position all day (elbow is stationary/not rotating) will grout up the tip-swivel in no time.

Ok that helps thanks! I’ve been doing a mixture of both a lot lately and it’s been probably about 5-6 months since I changed it. It’s leaking a bit now so I didn’t know if it was premature or not. I have been cleaning the elbow daily for the past month though

@@spencerparks3139 ours usually become grouted up and don’t swivel so well. The rubber gasket itself we usually see 6 months to a year out of.

My thoughts exactly. We’ll get there eventually 😁😁😁

It’s a 3” once full and expanded.

Dude; ask me how proud I am of myself for figuring out how to add music using KZfaq studio 😂😂😂

Nothing will come between me and that new 28Z Putz! Well, nothing except for accounting 😂😂😂

@@canadianconcretepumper1979 hahahaha funny, im a chartered accountant by initial training so im kinda of conflicted here. I find things like this usually align when you want something bad enough. One on a steal of a deal or some major new small homes residential development pops up and all of a sudden a 28Z makes so much sense 😂 i will pray to the pump gods for you

@@bowenike steal of a deal is what I’m banking on 🤞🤞🤞 (need to start a petition to Putzmeister). If not for accountants, we’d probably have one of at least every concrete pump currently in production…. That is until the bailiff eventually takes ‘em off our hands 😂😂😂

@@canadianconcretepumper1979 😂😂😂 im sure we could find a valid reason for that if we thought hard enough too

Took me 10+ years to muster up the courage to try this lay-flat hose. I’m in way too deep emotionally to bail on it now! 😂