Not a lot of purple in nature but everything that is looks cool af

No person here cares

@@melkillam4459 Thank you!

It really easy quite easy to work with. Thank you for watching!

Scott Michael that is awesome! Thank you so much...glad I could help out and thank you for watching 👍

Scott Michael just one less I owe KZfaq from all the help I get from KZfaq bahaha

Bahahaha I did Test Engineer 👍🏻 Sorry, I know, I need to do more videos. I am just finishing up my shop and hopefully will be back at it very soon again. I dont want to do a walk through with it in brutal condition lol. I was hoping to have everything done 6 months ago, buuuutttt life happened and reminded me to maintain my humbleness 🤷‍♂️

Keda Wood Dye Congrats...4 years later! 😂Loving your vids...

I was going to ask the exact same question about the interview! Glad you got it. I'm about to make some drums from raw wood hoops, and had an idea to stain the mango wood purple so thought I'd look up how others have done it - and here I am.. Thank you for this :-)

Thank you 😊💓

Kathleen Cleveland Thank you for watching :) Now I only owe KZfaq about 999 more from all the help I have gotten from KZfaq bahahaha So glad it helped out! Really appreciate that 👍

That's alright bruh, your lil thumbs up don't make a difference 👍🏻 go ahead and keep them

That is outstanding to hear! I actually am working on a few videos with wood turning, amongst some other videos. I really need to buckle up and get them edited and uploaded. I really am so happy I could help out with your wood finish. Thank you for the great news!

I am pretty sure that most woods similar in color will result in a pretty similar color purple - I am sure you will knock it out of the park :) I know a guy that did a swamp ash that had huge grains, and he filled the grains with a darker purple color by tinting wood filler and filled in the grains. Removed excess filler, let dry, sanded that, then dusted with a clear coat. Sanded that back, then did the lighter royal purple coloring. It looked AWESOME! Well thank you for watching....best of luck on your project

I’m actually doing a custom build modeled around an Ibanez Jem without the monkey grip in this color as well. Small world.

Yay! Great, Thank you! Glad I could help someone else out, since I am always taking from KZfaq. It is refreshing to be able give back. The wood finish really does look better in person, and capturing wood dye colors with a camera is an extremely difficult task to do. I am still working on trying to improve of course, but at least this gives a good base line to the wood finishes, and how to mix the wood dyes to get there. Thank you again...

@

Wood stain is from www.kedadyeinc.com/about-our-stain-powder-colors.php

Alan Moore hahaha yes I did :) Thank you for watching!

Np m8 ur videos are very good

hahaha No waxing was done. It was just the lacquer and I used 4 coats of a simple Valspar high gloss lacquer. I am actually a huge fan of building several thin coats, and for personal projects, that is how I would go, probably 7-10 thin coats, but for the videos, it really is to show a color, versus the sealer, so I just do the 3-4 coats with a between coat sand after the 2nd full coating (not including any flash coat or dusting I may do). Thank you for watching!

keep it up man, I am seriously taking notes on these, Im creating my own little swatch and LOVE your rod collection swatch/wall art thingy, I'm using water based dye but I think it may translate lol

zukakog Thank you for watching and for the great feedback 👍🏻 So you will want to sand the wood well with a 150 grit sandpaper, clean the wood off with a good wipe down to remove any lingering saw dust, then apply the dye stain. Let that fully dry, then go with the Tru Oil ;) Now to be totally honest, I have never mixed linseed oil and Tru Oil for sealing, so I cannot verify how well the two play together, or how that would work. I would go with the Tru oil first, then perhaps a thin coat of linseed oil if you really wanted to go with both, but I dont think you would need both. The Tru oil would work very well with this on the staff by itself ;) Thank you again for watching!

Thanks for the tip. From what I've come across elsewhere, using BLO under Tru Oil works well to preserve woods that will be handled a lot, like wooden weapons and gun stocks. I just found out I need to shorten this staff a bit, so I'll test it out on the scrap when the dye gets here.

If he wanted there to be music he'd add music to his shit

hybridamerica hey thank you for watching! Nope you don't need to add any binder to the stain mix, but you could. Otherwise, just sealing it with a clear coat works really well and adds depth and really brings out the dye colors.

Oh boy...that is a great question. I believe this would enhance the purpleheart wood, especially if there is any figuring in the wood grains. I honestly have never tried coloring purpleheart. Is a little pricey here, but that is a great idea that I need to try myself :) I really do think it would add to the wood finish 👍🏻

Allan P You could actually stain the center purple and bring that out to where you want the yellow to transition to. Then on the edges or the guitar fade, do the yellow or golden color. If you really wanted, you could even leave a narrow banding of the natural wood between the purple and yellow. If you use a yellowing lacquer, it will have an effect on the purple wood coloring so that is something to consider as well. You could also lightly seal the purple wood stain color on the edge where you plan on transitioning to the yellow before applying the yellow. Or if you do the yellow first you could lightly seal the edge of the yellow where the purple will transition before applying the purple. The light sealing should prevent the 2 colors from mixing. Another option would be to get the Keda Liquid Yellow Dye, and mix that into the lacquer, and spray or apply the yellow fade onto the edges. This would probably be the best way to do it, because you could clear coat the purple and the natural wood edge, then spray the yellow tinted lacquer over the natural wood edge, and will not interfere with the purple wood coloring. I really hope that makes sense, and thank you for watching. It sounds like an amazing project, and I am sure you will do amazing either way ;) 👍🏼

Thanks for the reply! I really appreciate the advice. Which of those techniques do you think would be the most beginner friendly? I'm going to pick up some scrap wood and get a few test runs started.

Me too, looks nothing like purple using his exact amounts

I used this mix today and it came out like a Cabernet Red. I'm going to go over it again with just blue and see if it gets more purple

Seriously????

Nope

@@JoelRamirez-os1ecit saturate into alder well at all. The wood refused to accept the stain

It is the dyes that give it that look. The lacquer adds depth and protection to the purple dye mix - lacquer has a good clarity to it and doesn't yellow over time 👍Thank you for watchin👍

Bahaha... Yep, I ended up getting a scientific spatula now so I stop using butter knives lol They clean up very easily, but yep....you are right 👍🤣😂🤣

So sorry for the delayed reply... I will make a video that shows how to define larger formulas, but the basics is taking the amount you want to make and multiplying the amount. Example: There is 128 oz in 1 gallon - 128/8 = 16 - From that you just multiple all the dye weights by the factor of 16.0 That means 16 x .4 grams of blue dye = 6.4 grams to 128 oz of water 16 x 0.8 grams of red dye = 12.8 grams of red dye and ginally the brown dye was 0.13 in 8 ozs so the 0.13 x 16 = 2.08 grams added to the 128 ozs of warm water. One thing I would like to note, is that if you do go with a larger dye stain batch like this, most often the dye stain color will be darker than in an 8 oz formula, so you can always add just a bit more water to the dye stain mix (like an added ounce or two of warm water) to help lighten that if desired. I hope that makes sense, and that I explained that well enough as to the how and why I did the dyes math formula as I did? Thank you again...

If you are using that hot of water, and soaking for long periods, perhaps lighten up on the blue. Cut it in half. This was meant more for a wipe on dye stain application. Hope that helps out.

If you are looking for more of a Plumb purple color you will just add more blue. I am trying to make that video but the camera keeps showing the color as blue instead of the plumb purple lol. I believe if you oil, it really can depend on the oil you are using. The wax I do believe it will stay similar to the dried coloring, but oil and wax, could make it go darker. If it is something like Tru Oil, the color should remain fairly similar as well, if not applying too heavy. Thank you so much for watching. Really appreciate it.

@@KedaWoodDye thanks for making the video, honestly. There should be more vids like this because finishing wood can be so unpredictable. I'll probably be using pure tung oil, by the way

John Reed If you want the dye stain to last longer after mixing, I would recommend using 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) instead of water. The color will be very similar, perhaps even a bit brighter, but the alcohol prevents the dyes from deteriorating for longer storage. Otherwise adding a few tablespoons of an alcohol should also help in longer storage. If I know I am going to have the blue sitting around for awhile, I will use the ISO alcohol, it lasts for months that way. Hope that is useful, and Thank you for watching.

Why don't you try it yourself and see for yourself you lazy bastard

Use your head for the scale and yes, when you buy a keda dye kit it comes with one

Stephen Co if you mean will the glue bond with the wood after the wood dye has been applied, yes there should be no problems with that. Let the wood dyes dry totally, and you may want to give the surface a good wipe down where you plan on gluing, just to remove any loose wood dyes that may be on the surface. Should have no troubles with that. These dyes literally become a part of the wood itself. Hope that helps out and thank you for watching.

I plan on doing that video very soon :) It really can depend on the "Purple" you are looking for, but one I like is a 2:1 blue:red. So if going with 8 ounces mix, 1/2 tsp blue to 1/4th tsp red works well. Is kinda a cross between Royal purple and a plumb purple, but very clean, vibrant looking 😉 Thank you again so much for watching and your support. Appreciate it more than you know 😁

You are very welcome! Thank you for your time with questions and showing us these great how-to vids!

I'd like to do the Royal Purple in this video. Hey, thanks for your Time and quick response!

Sorry yes...the formula is in the description if that helps out. Sorry about that

That's what I'm tripping on too

Lfren38 oh boy, I would say a pint should be enough for two sides of a door, so simply multiply the formula and everything in it by 2. Example: 8 ounces rubbing alcohol ( or hot water) would become 16 ounces ounces Pint Formula is: 16 ounces hot water (or 70% rubbing alcohol) 0.80 = 1.6 grams of Red Dye 0.41 = 0.82 grams of Blue Dye 0.13 =0.26 grams of Brown Dye Quart would be everything x 4 Half gallon would be everything x 8 Gallon would be everything in Purple Stain Formula x 16, but you will probably want to add 130 ounces instead of 128 because in larger batches, the color tends to darken. Hope that helps out, and thank you for watching.

What I mean is, I love that color and like how some blue shows up. I'd like to make a mix with more blue in it if it were possible. Then probably have parts of my bed frame in black.

Hi Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it. Yes you absolutely can layer these dyes. I know some wood dyes you cant, but these you can. In fact, it works pretty well actually. Here are two wood dye videos where I actually did do some layering, and hope it helps out.... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hMupp5Ogu7moe30.html This one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/epqeoMZm0ri-gHk.html actually is layering into Purple, but I think I did the red into purple and layered the blue over red, but the same layering wood dye principle would work for your idea. Thank you again for watching...

The two videos, did you mean this video and the one you linked? Could there be a possibility for making written instructions? Sometimes hard to tell what you're saying, for me at least.

I must have not have added the link correctly. Here is the second video of the layering dyes video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/epqeoMZm0ri-gHk.html I can try to come back and enter in some language as how to layer the dyes, but it may be better if I actually do something like that on the dye layering video? Once you see the video, you may realize it isnt as complex as you may think it is, at least with these wood dyes that is. I do know some wood dyes can very complicated to layer dyes atop each other, but these are actually designed to work very well together. Hope that helps out...

Why wouldn't you be able to carve it? All you're doing is dying the wood a different color... it's still a piece of wood you moron 😅

MattMiller Thank you for watching! Oh boy, this is going to be a long one...lol.. you don't realize what you asked hahaha...just kidding, I will hook you up ;) You don't really need a scale, there is just quite a few people that use this product, and some like the weight details. All this version of the purple stain is boils down to a 2:1 ratio of red:blue and a very small addition of brown. So example would be say 1/4 tsp red: 1/8 tsp blue to 6 ounces warm water or rubbing alcohol and a pea size of brown. It really is pretty easy. As for what works best, it really depends on the application format you are trying to do, the prep, how far you want the dye to go down into the wood, and how fast you need it to dry. Honestly, you can let the water sit on the wood surface longer, and pile more coats on easier than with the alcohol, but the alcohol is a bit more bright, digs a little deeper (which may mean a little more dye or added coats may be needed because there is more Dye dispersed deeper into the wood, so the color is more spread out, which also creates more transparency, but it really depends on the look you are trying to attain). The wood prep is a huge part of wood finishing. What I mean by that is you can't roll the wood in motor oil, run it through a dull bladed lawnmower, and expect it too look like a 5A musical grade wood that was planed, sanded with a progression sand from 120 to say 150, then wet wiped & dried, followed by a 180 and 220 grit wood specific sandpaper Hahahaha all that really means is if you give a good sanding, keep oils and contaminants off of the wood, apply a generous portion of the dyes, you should be pretty good to go :) As for sealer at least 3 but not more than 100 Hahahaha again, it really depends on the sealer, the look you are going for, are you wet sanding and polishing after cure, etc. If going with lacquer, shellac, nitro lacquer, and 90% of solvent top coats probably 3-7 is pretty safe. You can always add a few more, but the more you add the longer it can take too cure. Polycrylic, and some other water based sealers sometimes just need a slightly heavier coating with less coats. Tru oil, Tung Oils etc you could go up to 30 or 40 maybe even more, or you could go with 2-3 to still feel the wood. I hope that helps, I can't give much more detail as this is pretty long already. Thank you again.

Thanks this helps I have a guitar body that Im going to stain and the color in the video I saw is the color Im going for and the body wood is swamp ash

MattMiller Great! Glad it could help out :) Once you get the stain on, you can always play around with the color too. Meaning you can always add a touch more blue too bring the color more too the violet side, or more red to bring it more to the magenta side. You can even add a coat on top of an already existing color, too modify the color as a whole.

oh ok cool and i was looking to have this color because i wanted to still see the wood grain in the swamp ash and im actually goin to have someone do this job for me haha

Yes This will wood stain will be transparent and have a cleaner look to it. It will allow for the grain to show through very well.

Alejandro Lopez Alejandro Lopez Alejandro Lopez thank you for watching! The lacquer that was used over the purple stain was a Valspar Lacquer gloss. It was the same lacquer as in this Teal Video also if you want a better visual: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j99mdNuk39PdfnU.html of the sealer itself. I use several different types of sealers in these, but many times I do utilize lacquer. I typically use what I have lying around.

They are quite light fast. The sealer really is a determining factor in that as well though, meaning if you are going to have the colored wood in the direct Sunlight for hours everyday, then you will want a UV protecting sealer over the top like Spar Urethane or other outdoor type sealer. However, the Sun and outdoor elements are very powerful, and given a long enough timeline, just like with anything with color, they could fade over time. I dont think there is anything that can truly withstand the power of the direct sunlight for years without color fading. Hope that helps out and thank you for watching

@@KedaWoodDye thanks for getting back to me, i will get some, always good to use new products, thanks

Sorry for the delayed reply. Keda Dye can be applied to any wood substrate really. I believe you are referring to the Holly Tree right? I have used Keda Dyes on several substrates ranging all the way from Balsa Wood all the way through to Pecan or Hickory Wood. I have even dyed burled Amboyna which has a Janka Hardness and density 1,260 lbf (5607 N) with incredible results. These wood dyes really are very color potent, so I would say for a standard Holly Wood, with a Janka Hardness 1,020 lbf (4,540 N) it will color really nice. The one time I had some Holly, it was very white for wood. It was however before I started using Keda Dye unfortunately. I would start with a ratio maybe like a heaping 1/8th tsp to 6 oz of isopropyl alcohol, or warm water. Holly is very similar in density to Maple. Anyways, I honestly have not seen any wood these wood dyes have not been able to color. I really hope that helps out... Thank you for watching the video.....

Hell yeah, bring Holly over and I'll dye her pubes royal purple

I did lol... That was some time back though, and was a contract position that expired. Now, I just try to make a living however I can 😊 Thank you for watching 👍

If that is the case, then YIKES however, I am not sure the reasoning for that, from making a wood dyes color video? I am not the one that controls how light reflects into our eyes to determine color interpretation. I just try to define the dye colors that it takes to attain a specific purple wood stain color using wood dyes. As described prior, this ratio may not work with other brand wood dye colors and is just for helping others attain the ratios to reproduce and repeat if they wanted to color wood purple. Thank you for your opinion though. It is always great to see what others are thinking 😉

WRONG. The finer you sand, the less likely the dye will penetrate. Clearly you don't know what you're talking about. Keda even advises to NOT go above 150 grit for this very reason.