Thank you very much for your efforts and explanations. they really have helped me.

Larry, thank you for all these great videos! I watch them for each step as I build my layout. For each step, I watch the video one time to grasp the scope of the work, then play it again while I'm actually doing the work! Pausing as needed. I just tonight installed my Bluepoint machine on my mock up exactly like you did it in the video and it works GREAT! I'm going to start adding them to my layout shortly. You are a wealth of knowledge and we are all so lucky that you are someone who is honestly enthusiastic about helping others! Thank you again!

I realize that my comment is late based on the posting date of your video, however, I feel I can add some good information. Those flexible push rods have been used in the R/C airplane hobby for decades. They are inexpensive and very reliable. That might serve as an alternative source for purchase, as well as with the clevises and threaded rod ends. Additionally, for your double blue point idea, there are several different styles of push rods available based on the needed flexibility. All of them work very well and for railroad use would be fool proof. 😊

Nice video.

Congratulations on having 10,000 subscribers. Reentering the hobby after a 45+ yr. absence and I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work Larry.

Your demonstration really helped to simplify Bkue Point Installation.

You can any size you need of those cable clamps off Amazon and eBay. I purchased 500 of the 3/16” about a month ago👍

So happy that I stumbled on your site. I had no idea these switch machines could be activated from opposite sides of a layout. I'm installing an island or rather a peninsula in the middle of a spare bedroom n scale layout that currently travels around the four walls. I always wanted to try these and now I have a reason to give them a try. Many Thanks!!! As a tip: I have installed all-thread into similar plastic (yellow) tubes by placing the all-thread in my drill chuck and holding the tube with a pair of pliers. Slowly letting the drill screw in the all-thread.

Congrats on 10k!

Keep it up Larry 👍👍👍 Awesome video

Great tutorial Larry

Congratulations on 10K, thanks for sharing this.

Another great Video Larry, those Point Machines look really good and easy to install. So pleased that you’ve made 10K. Keep safe.

Great job. I will tackle that one on my layout.

Thanks Larry, Been waiting on this every sense I bought my Blue Point Switch Machines. Really enjoy your Videos.

Thanks...really interesting. I'd never seen these pushrod system before! And well done and well deserved on getting to 10k !

Great information. 10K - Congrats.

Fantastic milestone achievement Larry. Great video, I guess I never really considered mechanical point operation but I have to admit that the tactile experience of using this method certainty intrigues me. Great video look forward to the next one. Nick Australia

Well done on 10k subscribers.

WAHOO Congratulations my friend great channel

The nyrods, threaded rod and Clevis are sold in the RC airplane industry. They have been used sense the mid 70's for use as control rods for the control surfaces. I use to fly them back in those days. Just thought you should know that there is another source for these. Drilled blocks of wood and epoxy can be used as stabilizers for the nyrods.

THANK YOU...for sharing.

Congratulations on reaching 10,000 subscribers. I have seen other layouts before with those knobs sticking out the front panel and wondered what they were for. I am going to use servo motors mounted under the baseboard and controlled by Arduino boards. (Well that the plan.) Martin. (Thailand)

Hi Larry. By the way the MRC Railpower 1300 Power in Conjunction with the 840's with the Kato 842 DC convertor connected to the controller, with the switches going to the DC and the wires from the convertor going to the AC. That's all it takes. I just wanted to let you know so if anyone else asks you the same question, you'll have the answer. I thank you again for looking up what you did in order to help me get where I wanted to be. Speak to you again soon. Mark

So far I've used only Fast Tracks "Bullfrog" turnout controller, and it's about the same idea. The biggest difference is that it's all laser cut and you have to put it together yourself, as well as the thing that you push and pull on. I'm happy with it, but some of the switches don't really inspire confidence, like the way it goes together means it doesn't feel like it's going to properly trigger the switch to change polarity. It's a more simple switch though, and not dpdt. I'm curious why they felt that was necessary. Maybe they just had a lot?

Insert threaded rod into the chuck on your drill and it will be faster to connect to yellow tubing.

Great video Larry, I'm looking forward to seeing how you connect up a double through and throw point with the pushrod system that you are using on your next video. I was also wondering how close you can tie both points together with the one pushrod, thank you, Larry you're doing a grand job, regards Jon.

Larry, congratulations. I’ve enjoyed many of your videos and hope to apply many of your techniques. My question, can the bluepoint machine power indicator lights on the fascia? Would be great to see a how to video.

Congrats on reaching 10,000 subscribers. Do you remove the switch springs from the switches ?

Between the cost of the Blue Point Machine, the Rods, Nobs, Connectors, +. Were is the advantage Vs a Frog Machine since you need the DCC system anyway. I am not looking at the difference in usage, cost only.

Larry, do you know if you have to remove the spring on Peco turn-outs to allow the blue point switch machine to change the points?

Hi Larry. I have Kato track along with DCC NCE Power Cab system. I'd like to know if I can use the Kato switch controllers with a separate power source. Could you suggest which one to use? Sorry for asking this question on this particular video...lol I'm just trying so hard to get the right answers to my questions so I can move along with putting my dream together for my granddaughter. I appreciate your input. I'm starting to put the dots together. I'm also trying not to be afraid to try stuff with the layout. Especially when it works out! Thanks again. Mark

Hi Larry. If I went with the Wall wart, would I need 12V DC / 2amp or 24V 1,2Amp? Would I then set up a separate bus line for this? Thanks again for being so kind!! Mark

I noticed you used what I would call an electric "Mini-drill" in making this installation. Can you share who manufactures that?

Where can you get the yellow and red tubing?

I have an old linnel S gauge train I believe my controller has gone bad what controller would work with this S gauage engine

did you fly RC planes? same type of rods used with the clevis

Hi Larry. Getting back to my question about directly powering my Kato remote switches with the Kato 840 controller. Would the MRC Pailpower 1300 Powerpack do the trick? Thanks

this is all new. i do not understand what the Blue Point Switch Machines do as far as the soldering of the wires if its a manual system

G'Day Larry I am new to your channel and I was wondering if you have done any clips on how to solder wires to the tracks with out melting the plastic sleepers they are attached too? Also do you know how to set up a loop track so that when the engine gets back on the line leading into the loop it keeps going forwards as the power track would now be flipped to the other side for the engine? I read something about this years ago in a model train mag but most of my mags are still packed away after I moved as I don't have anywhere to unpack them to. If I remember right it said that you don't have the track actually connected to the points and you run wires from the end track over to the other track only you cross the wires over so that the power side still connects to the power side track to keep the power flow correct and that you only have to put the transformer into reverse so the train keeps going forward as the train is now running in the opposite direct while facing forwards. I just want to confirm I am remembering this right for a single line into a loop. The easiest thing to do would be to run two lines to the loop however here in Australia there were the od rail lines that were single lines and had a loop at the ends so that the trains could run to the end of the line and keep going forward without having to uncouple the engine and turn it around then re-couple it to the head of the train. The loop meant the train could just keep going and it was quicker this way. I think all of these small lines have closed down