Great Video Brother, definitely an option. Thanks for helping us skeptics👍

I have been using the fake PWK carb on my KTM exc 200 for 120 hrs with no problems works better than the original.

After dissecting countless and comparing to factory keihin carbs of same model and sizes. I began to wonder exactly how all the variances in one clone to another to an oem effect operation after to many carbs to count and many hours flowing each circuit in all these clones tell i bought enough i think ive seen all the internal diffs in one to another next time you purchase one you are about 1 and 7 of getting one speced the same as another. anyways after flowing each different clone (That should be all the same but are not) and comparing readings to a matching oem version what i found is its all in the jetting blocks due to the horrible install height variances in clones top and bottom (Two piece internals) emulsion tube replication of the baby pwks operation with different ID diameters from one to another as well as holes the amount of and size of so you see MAJOR differences in one clone to the next with about a 1 and 7 chance of seeing numbers similar to one before. because of this needle changes are just a preference of what rpm you want the rich spot at rather a ability to tune because every one of them flows much more unrestricted than the oem jet block meaning richer, so you can jet all you want but all you are doing is changing idle and top end crispness everything in between is pre determined by emulsion tubes with orifices that the needle simply change when they are blocked and not so when you are rich in the strokes needle changes will simply just move the rich spot around tell you find what you like because on your way to WOT all the same orifices will be open in the end and that amount of fuel is determined by how many and what size they are in the emulation tube that is non serviceable unlike the baby PWK's inside the jetting block. (I have seen some that are to small ID to accept a oem keihin needle believe it or not). So if you buy one, jet it for top end then pilot then needle to move the bad spots to somewhere you can deal with them because the actual needle changes will not reflect the same change they would offer on oem carbs as verified in flowing the main circuits with many needle changes assembled with slides at every 1/16 in. of slide travel the needles do not even close do what they are designed to do in oem carbs though you do see differences just nothing even related to the oem flow rates and in most cases not even the direction x needle should have went. Honestly I was shocked to realize all you need to do to one of these to have the performance in adjustability match that of an OEM is buy a $40 clone then buy a $50 used oem jet block (You cant buy new ones sudco never sold them) for it and for $90 you have a carb that is on target with the OEM and mirrors in adjustments.

Thank you. They work fine for me also

You did a great job using the glass beads.

I’m using a jd jetting kit on my 23 yz125 Keihin carb Stock settings Main 160 Pilot 75 JD is telling me to use a 50 pilot. But isn’t that extremely lean and wear off my engine since it will run hotter? JD settings Pilot 50 Main 170 Needle : red on 4 ring

Anyone have jet info for one of these fitted to a 83 RM250? & where can I get a kit from? thanks

Hi