Glad I could help

These are the comments that inspire a guy to keep making videos!

Wow, thanks!

Glad I could help!

Can you confirm what type of pressures you we’re getting under normal circumstances?

Excellent!

Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it

Glad I could help

I had to call the dealership. Also, use ester oil and not mineral oil.

I will admit .. one high pressure hose has a good crack (dry rot) and will blow one day .. and I did go through a clutch /field and pulley on it. But it’s still blowing decent after 30 years.

My belt was loose and I tightened it off camera. I was trained to load a system with liquid. If you have some technical data showing to load a system with gas first for some benefit i'm all ears.

That is some great advice!

I've heard people swear on it both ways, but I'm not taking any chances.

I’ve done a number of these retrofits and never found it necessary.

This problem usually means your fan setup isn’t cooling the compressed charge enough, if your pressures and Freon levels are all correct. See what happens when you spray a bit of water over the condenser with the em system running. If the interior temp drops then you need to make the cooling system more efficient. Add a fan shroud or seal up any holes that can get to the fan without going through the radiator/condenser. Also, putting insulation around your cold line and dryer will help things cool down.

@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades Dude thank you so very much for your response! To be honest, I never thought I'd hear anything, but figured I'd give it a shot. I never really thought about the fan not pushing enough air through. The original OEM setup didn't have anything (no fan, shroud, nothing... Just an ENORMOUS condenser core), so I figured I was doing my system a massive favor by adding an electric fan. The condenser/fan just hangs out in the front of the car ahead of the radiator - no shroud, nothing. Hah... Shows the little I know overall. I'm going to try that water trick to see if that makes any difference. If it does, then I finally have a direction I can go in to tackle the problem! I have room for a second fan, so I might just do that anyway.

@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades AGREED!!!!

Syed Wajahat Ali evaporator is the same. Switching to an expansion valve is unnecessary. The AC Blows I’ve cubes in the Las Vegas summer heat just fine with an orifice tube.

it's exactly what it sounds like. ordered it from amazon.

I found everything readily available through oreilly's. if not, get one from the junkyard as a template and have a custom shop guild one for you. Also, try LMC truck and the other online retailers.

Pressures are too inaccurate to judge. Basically, they'll tell you if you have a blockage. if the pressure differential is too big or if your high side is much over 200, you probably have a blockage. There is a graph in the video. But I never go by pressure to judge a charge. The only way is by weight. Everything else is guessing.

Thank you!!! The Esther oil is specifically for use when converting from r12 to r134a. It is compatible with both refrigerants and with the mineral oil.

@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades really appreciate it! Happy 4th 🍻🍻🍻

It has to do with your climate and refrigerant. I'm not smart enough on the subject to dial in my components like that. I just replace stock and it works well.

What did the high side do? What work did you do to it? how old is the compressor? Basically, pull the orifice tube out and see if there is metal in it. It's hard to tell without being there in the moment, but most of the time if your compressor is making any weird noise, it's time to replace it. then you have to evaluate how far the damage spread. If there is metal in the lines, flush them. if there is metal in the condenser or evaporator, you have a better chance of getting pregnant than getting all the metal out. It's safest to replace contaminated cores. However, I wasn't there so I can't actually say for certain.

These trucks have an orifice tube instead of an expansion valve. You do need to remove the orifice tube because it acts as a filter for junk in the system. It's something you should always replace. If you are working on something with an expansion valve, I would recommend removing it and flushing the system that way. Also, it would suck to do all that work and have a $0.05 o-ring be the leak when you go to repressurize the system.

I’m not sure specifically. I had to dig for mine. If you’re lucky, you’ll have the placard under the dash that’ll tell you how much r12 to use and then math out the r134 amount from there.

I would not trust what the compressor said it came with. Dump it out and add 3-4 oz back in. Then use an oil injector to put the rest in. Also, I used esther oil.

I would absolutely just flush it out and run it. I might also suggest a pressure test. Pull a vacuum on it for an hour, then let it set and make sure it doesn't leak.

Just went to the parts store and gave them the vin,

I think it was about $250 for parts. To do a custom line setup is way more expensive. I have a video about it on my channel. I did a custom setup on the Family Burnout Wagon

Mine is specifically for the K30 with a 454. it's p/n NRC NC3642A from NAPA

@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades i thought it looked a little different. I think the ports should be on the driver side on mine. Thank you for the reply

If you mean the stretchy duct, I ordered all of it from that jungle website.

Whatever was available at Oreilly's

@@BurnoutsAndRotorblades, thanks.

A combination of Oreilly’s and Amazon.

@BurnoutsAndRotorblades I have a 85 k5. I guess after watching your video I need to do the same thing..

Also do I need to change the compressor out to or will the old one be fine as long as it works?

@@davidolds1972 that depends on a lot of things. The textbook answer is; for the absolute best results replace the compressor, orifice tube, dryer, condenser, evaporator, and any compromised lines or hoses. I personally usually try to just flush the evaporator core because the passages are larger and it’s possible to get shavings and junk out combined with the very inconvenient location. Not replacing the other items is a gamble I would only consider if the system was working perfectly but sprung a leak. I always replace the orifice tube and dryer. If there is any metal on the orifice tube, the condenser is probably compromised and depending on what the shavings look like, so is the compressor. Long answer to basically say, do it once and be done with it.

I agree with you . The vehicle only has a 120000 original miles. But I don't know anything about it. I bought it like this .thanks for the help .What state are you in?

you know what they say, KZfaq University. . . .

Who has nitrogen just laying around? Be realistic.