Thanks legend

Yeah boi. X30’s are killing it here at the moment 💪 Where are you racing?

@@PowerRepublic Spain, in Europe. TaG is very popular here. I'm not competing with the X30 yet, just practice and practice... Racing the rentals to try and learn around other drivers too.

@@Dabaiko Good idea, seems like karting is popular in Spain.

Awesome Steve, glad they help. Let your friends know.

yeah boi, get it on!!

Thanks bro, how's your racing been going?

Not so good I crashed badly in round 2 heat 2 at Ipswich but I’m ok

You all good or still rattled

Nope I’m all good thanks for asking also I was in cadet

12

Hey BF, no not really in regards to HP output. It most likely a longevity advantage as the crank axles won’t where out

@@PowerRepublic I appreciate the info. I was just curious because in the KZ engines it definitely made a difference but I wasn’t sure if it would be noticeable in the X30. Thanks again.

torque is for M10 fine thread 40Nm

VM thanks for the good vibes. I haven't done that yet but it something we could work on but is pretty in depth. are you going to attempt to do your own engines or you would just like to know how it is done?

@@PowerRepublic it’s my first season with the X30 , and i already have 6 races on it and a month long break between races in my region . We are a father&son kind a team , i do all the wrenching. If it’s an in depth thing I’d rather take it to a rebuild , there couple of them in the vicinity I don’t even have to ship them . I wanted to try within this month free of races , that way I’ll have time to rework any mistakes on my side , not that there’s room for any when working the insides of an engine . Anyways , if you make one i’m pretty sure I’ll watch it and try it at the end of season in November or so . Thanks a bunch !!!

your very welcome my friend

Hey DJ, thanks for the positive feedback. The old and the new engines are internally identical, so the service intervals are the same for most club racers, 10-15hours for the top end and 30-40 hours for the full engine.

Thanks for the quick reply! Can i run the first piston as long as the following ones or do i need to change it earlier due to material settlement of new engines?

@@DJNoseT the jury is out on that one. If you are a Hardcore racer and wanting to win the world titles, yeah by all means get your engine fresh before the event. Otherwise if you are club racing it is fine to run them out 10-15hours. IMO

yeah they changed them here in Aus about 2 years ago. its the new coil, stator, rotor and wiring harness. super easy to install, costs about 800 skins for the complete upgrade

@@PowerRepublic Any thoughts on the exhaust system?

Thanks boss, you rockin an X30 this season???

@@PowerRepublic I don't have go kart but I still love watching your videos

@@jonahbrownson7403 awesome, m when you do finally get one you will be able to fix it for sure

it sure is. not really, it came down to cost. But this machine works perfectly IMO so if yo can afford one I would get it.

Hi, nice vids! Can you use Sunnen Hone arbors for the Effeciemme too?

That's the plan!

Hey steve, CF all the way

Yes you can

👍

Hey Tom, yeah that is the hot engine of 2021 here in Australia. They should be here in the next couple of months so tune in when we do the first of the video series on the Vortex RoK GP

@@PowerRepublic Thanks Derek, ROK GP engine is a beast. I love it. Here in Europe is much more to see then in overseas.

I can't remember exactly but I don't think that when we did the back to back on the dyno it made a huge variation. I would have to back to back test them again to quantify 100%

@@PowerRepublic Would love to know. I’m eyeing it off as one way to also drop some weight over the 2018 ignition. Extra grunt would be a way to justify how pricey it is!

Hey Sammy, no not a must, but most guys will change them over. I personally haven't noticed enough of a change on the dyno to say 100% yes you need them. but we do replace a lot of reeds to the carbon type

@@PowerRepublic cheers 🙌🙏

you could, but some things are just easier on the bench

To loosen chain tension with the engine still on the kart you need to: Loosen engine stop and bring it back Loosen engine mounts Bring the engine back so you can remove the chain from the clutch Follow Power Republic's wicked vids!!!

@@harrydowd9960 #respect

Hey Mr B, great question......if the drum rotates but doesn't have any lateral movement then you are all good. if the drum/oring/thrust washers are bound up then that aint so good. maybe just pull it off and make sure you haven't got the internal trust washer all jammed up or something

@@PowerRepublic the drum rotates, but dosnt have any play in and out. So x30 dosnt have a lot of Play/big tolerances like my rok gp has ?

Yeah nah not if the washers are all in good condition

sure can Jorge, they are about to land here in Australia. where do you race yours?

I’m in Georgia US.Tony Kart 125Vortex Thank so much,enjoy and learn from your Videos. Jorge

you could hydraulic it out using grease and a pin punch...... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j52BrdeFubndmHk.html

where about do you live?

@@PowerRepublic switzerland

foot of the crank case

Sure can my friend. Anything in particular you want to see!

Just what you would get up too, and some onboard.

Epic idea, I’ll get some footage together and make it happen

Depends which your local clubs use. The rotax is probably more fun, and abit cheaper, the iame is more consistant and racers prefer that, but abit more expensive. Power is comparable. Both are good.

well said Chris, Rotax is great if your local club racers have them, otherwise get an X30. both are wicked fun to drive.

Although the max output is about the same the character is a bit different, probably because the Rotax has a power valve and the X30 doesn't. From the Dyno results I've seen the Rotax is stronger up to about 12500rpm, above that the X30 wins out. So I imagine that if the driver is a bit heavier, like me, the Rotax might be the better choice.

Thank you so much!

Can’t go wrong either way. Rotax is cheaper and generally easier. If you want to just go and drive they’re the better option, and if your local series races them all the better. I run both and prefer the x30, but it is the one I drive more because it’s the one I race. X30 has much more linear power band, and is a little more easy to tune the carb on. I think it’s a little quicker on the lap too, but not by much. It runs a lot more oil and needs to be rebuilt a lot more because the piston ring is at the very top. Both those due add up in cost with the top needing rebuild every 8 for racing and 12-15 for just practicing. The rotax on the other hand is about half the oil per L/G and rebuilds more like 25 hours on the top and 50 on the bottom, I’m not sure if that keeps it quick for racing though. The rotax is nice cause it’s all one package of radiator and motor, but does have an internal water pump. The x30 I think is a little easier to get going correctly with the external reed needles and overall is a little less complicated of a system. TLDR is get the rotax if you don’t plan on racing, and if you do plan on racing then get the motor that’s ran at the races you want to do/are local to you

Hey Bob, there is a circlip on the output shaft of the gearbox normally for the driver sprocket. And the rear sprocket has to be bolted onto the rear axle in 2 halfs normally. What type of KZ are you racing ?

@@PowerRepublic I am about to buy a kz2. So am doing my research as have been racing for a while. Just curious if the gearing is all done on the rear sprocket or front. Or even if it’s done by changing the internal gears. Or is it even just have one size rear sprocket and never change it.

@@BobSmith-ec5cf nah its the front and rear combo gears that are changed. Internal gear changers are mostly for Formula cars and race cars

@@PowerRepublic ok thank you. Really enjoy the vids

yeah m HTB grease

@@PowerRepublic thanks!