Its a nightmare with any piece of equipment weighing a little shy of 1,000 lbs to drag back in the garage.

+Nate Ngzcaz Not if you have differential lock,there is a"NIGHT/DAY"difference that only experience will teach.The all wheel steering makes a BIG difference in turning corners on icy snow also.Two wheel steering tends to make the front end"PUSH"in a straight line because the rear wheels don't turn corners.You get what you pay for and I had a"can't-cut-it"and basically it's about saving a buck,but the name says it all.

Not sure what you are referencing.. my 3184 C.Cadet has power steering so its easy to steer. If you're talking all wheel drive where all 4 wheels pull you're leaving a heck of a lot of guys out of the game. Big bucks but nice if you can afford it. Not everyone can... that said, I can't remember having major issues with the front wheels pushing in 40 years of pushing snow and ice here in the Pocono Mts of Ne Pa. Just have to distribute the weight properly, get down to the dirt/gravel/blacktop and not be in too much of a hurry unless its a straight push. . I was specifically referencing a machine around or in excess of 1000 lbs and dragging it back in the garage should it break down on you. Can't imagine a 4 wheel drive being any easier to drag out of the snow or ice.

Over the length of a football field and its hilly ? More power to you, just not for me anymore. With my 20 foot wide driveway and over 300 feet in length a walk behind is no longer what I need... or want. I tried to find a snowblower for my CC 3184 but no dice.. lucky to find a CC blade setup for it.

Nate I still use the plow on my riding mower some times, depends a lot on the type and depth of the snow we get.

For sure...... We've gotten 26 inch ( our personal record where I live and many snowfalls in the 12 inch range. I have to start pushing when its gets around 10 inches or else it can overpower you in a hurry.

TJ L sea foam is safe and works good

I 2nd the Sea Foam.

+Daniel Bilier Here's a video of an auger gear repair that's nearly identical to the cub cadet auger gear. The repair is not difficult, but it’s inconvenient to stop for this kind of repair in the middle of a snow storm. Therefore, I ended up buying a complete second auger gear/axle set so, when it breaks, I can get the thrower working again quickly. Then I replace the brass worm wheel (as shown in the video) at my leisure.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f7aqfrCKtJeWj40.html Perhaps I am overloading this relatively small and soft brass worm wheel gear, but I've also learned of erosive reactions between brass and gear oils with active sulfur, such as in EP (extreme pressure) gear oils. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28958/ep-additives-effects The steel worm screw pushing the brass worm wheel, in combination with the active sulfur gear oil, leads to rapid erosion of the brass teeth to the point where the brass teeth fold over and the worm wheel gear fails. I'm currently using Mobil SHC 634 gear oil to reduce erosion of the brass gear. It's expensive, but I only bought 1 liter. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/895/gear-lubricant www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

For what series tractor ? they obviously don't fit all especially with shaft drive

The front end attachment is difficult to install. It takes me about 45 minutes to hook it up and it does not go on easy. Sometimes it's quite frustrating. Taking it off is easier and I can do it in about 10 minutes. For most of the year, I store the attachment on a "lift tray" in my garage. The brass worm gear that turns the auger is similar to that of a walk behind - not heavy duty. It will wear out from time to time. I have learned how to repair it and I keep a full supply of spare parts. The advantage of tractor mounting is that you can push into heavy or hard snow with much greater force than a walk behind. There are times it can prevail where a walkbehind would not, but hooking up the attachment is not something I look forward to each year. In comparison, my mower deck goes on an off in a snap.

Good eyes! Somehow I wound up with 2 standard 40 lb suitcase weights. I made the other two out of scrape plate steel I fished out of a dumpster (good find). Those are about 80 lbs each - so a total of 240 pounds. It helps, but others have suggested I could get better tires for snow.

I have chains on my 2176 Cub with snowthrower helps alot @@Hullspeed

42" Snow Thrower, 190-341-100 (auger mfg. code 1G015G and after). The tractor is a GT2550. I purchased both the tractor and the thrower in 2008.

Hi. There are comments below that address some of your questions regarding installation (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNyZqpqax8WugnU.html) Also, look at the comments under this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fLxodNeHrZnHoXU.html Those comments go into exactly the kinds of questions you are asking about wear and break downs. Best wishes.

Washington DC area. Every few years, we get a crazy big snow storm. They're always predicted days in advance, so we have lots of time to stock up on food and beverage. It can be a lot of fun.

Confusion

This is s GT2550

I’m now spoiled with the commercial John Deere stuff, but it’s really expensive. … but heavy duty.

42" Snow Thrower, 190-341-100 (auger mfg. code 1G015G and after). The tractor is a GT2550. I purchased both the tractor and the thrower in 2008.

Hi do you no what blower my 09 and newer cub gt2544 takes? Or will fit?

what kind of wet plastic do you wanna use a snow blower for??

@@BenShively65 Well, I don't need it now! That was 7 yrs ago!!

The tractor is a GT2550. I purchased both the tractor and the thrower in 2008.

@@Hullspeed Yep, that's why people are confused. In your description you wrote Lawn Tractor which is an LT and is not for ground engaging activities (plowing, tilling, cultivating, etc.) You have a GT, which is a Garden Tractor which is suited for ground engaging activities and accordingly has a stronger transmission.

@@ChrisNYPilot Oh!!! I thought the GT was Cub Cadet throwing a nod to the Ford Mustang GT, but now I understand that "Mustang GT" means the Mustang Garden Tractor! It all make sense now!!!

@@ChrisNYPilot Thanks! I'll change the description. I didn't understand the lawn vs garden distinction. Now I do!

@@Hullspeed that was great. 😂

I have trouble with even shallow climbs. Going down is easy, but my wheels will frequently spin going up. I do okay with my driveway, which has a shallow hill - but even that hill can give me a little trouble from time to time. I have neighbors with steep hill driveways. Sometimes I try to get to the top of them and its a real victory if I do. Other times I can only make it part way up or - even worse - I'll start sliding, out of control, down whatever I have already cleared and I risk going off into a ditch and getting really stuck (never have, but I'd say I was lucky). Some have recommended that I get knobby tires; I'm certain that would help but I never have. I've tried chains and they help, but they are a pain and they mark the heck out of the driveway and I would never use them again, ever. A typical hill "attack" involves getting whatever I can get before hopeless wheel spinning kicks in. Then I come back a few hours later and see if the surface has dried up... I can take another high speed run at it and chew 10 or 20 more feet. Once I get a good path to the top, I can often run up the clear path and then snow-throw down, cutting out a wider path each time down. The short answer to your question is that it is not at all certain and - if it does work - it's a hassle. It would be a lot of money to invest without a guaranteed outcome.

@@Hullspeed Thank you for your reply... and your advise.

@@Hullspeed I use AG tires on a Craftsman DGS6500 with Dozer Blade with rubber conveyer belt strip at bottom of that blade so doesn't mark driveway. No chains (prefer that way for asphalt driveway). It has wheels weights on it year round and have a sleeve hitch (for picking trailer) with nothing mounted on back. Does really well for what I need but typically do not get snowfall you got in last part of video. If I did I would have to push through then slice at it. My driveway isn't big so that helps too. AG tires were well worth it especially I live near a swamp so do not get stuck anymore in summer and doesn't effect grass unless heavy rainfall which I just wait to a dry day to roll around on turf.

+Marty Christian Soldier The tractor is a GT2550 with a Kohler Command, 2 cylinder, air-cooled V-Twin OHV. Engine power is 22 hp (16.4 kW) with a shaft drive to a rear heavy-duty cast axle for propulsion. The 42" snow thrower is part number 190-341-100 (auger mfg. code 1G015G and after). The snow thrower is belt driven (just like the mower deck) with power coming from a forward facing PTO and a belt that runs down from the front of the engine, around two lower-forward pulleys, and back underneath to where the mower deck would be mounted in the summer. I purchased both the tractor and the thrower in 2008. The engine power is entirely adequate and the engine RPMs have never dropped below governed RPM due to any load. Nevertheless, in thick tall grass, I still have to slow down in order to get a clean cut.

rachit10 I have an LT1050 with a 24 horse Kohler with a 50 inch deck, that will also bog down in heavy wet grass, as long as it is pretty dry it goes right thru it. But going thru the snow I thought you were running more power than that, that sucker does a nice job. It has given me new visions, I like riding much better than walking. Thanks for getting back to me.

+Marty Christian Soldier It definitely depends on your task. Read the other comments if you get a chance. My neighbor has a walk-behind thrower which I admire because it is simple and easy. For a normal driveway, it seems like the walk-behind thrower is less hassle and there are fewer repairs. I have a long driveway, so maybe what I have makes since for me - but just barely. On horsepower, I have a narrower deck, but I may also have an issue with the deck/blade design because taller grass just gets laid over, and doesn't get cut well, if I go too fast. The engine does not bog down, but it's not fully cutting the grass either. I do have other mowers that "grab" and cut into tall grass better - and on those, the hp determines how fast I can go and still cut clean. With the GT2550, if I let the lawn get away from me (for example, 2 weeks in the growing season), it means I have to go slower, but it's not because of the hp. Hope that makes sense...

rachit10 Well none of this is new to me by any means. I have a 11.5 walk behind that moves snow no problem. But I am getting older with bad hips and have to look for other solutions. I don't like the idea of doing anything with belts. The only time I have ever seen grass lay down, was when my blades were not sharp enough. The size and shape of the deck should not have anything to do with it, I would think.

I had to replace a gear/chain case once (not serviceable); it's an enclosed chain drive that moves the rotation up to the impeller shaft. The other annoying thing is that the brass worm gear that drives the augers is undersized and it will give out from time to time. It's serviceable and the replacement gear isn't expensive, but it takes about 2 hours to repair and it's generally a 24 hour turn around waiting for parts to warm up prior and for the gasket seal to set afterward.

@Paranoid Is that the case that, essentially, moves the turning shaft up about 6 inches? ...It's right behind the thrower, behind the scoop? If that's what you are talkng about, it's not serviceable; you have to buy the whole part that has the case, chain. and two shafts all together. I suppose someone whose a really good machinist could prove me wrong, but they didn't sell the individual parts for a casual repair. Sorry.

Yes I do! But it's significantly more beat up now.

@@Hullspeed do you know the part number on the two belts to use? Im having a hard time finding them. Thank you!

@@johnkrock2291 Yes. I think I started using an aftermarket replacement. I'll check when I get home tonight.

That would be awesome! Thanks!

@@johnkrock2291 Ughh. I'm out of town now. Sorry for the delay.

+Lane Morrow I was thinking the same thing.

True.... but not as big of a hassle as shoveling :-D

I was too. Then I seen it was in climate control garage. So 68-70 degrees. It would be like starting on a summer day.

10 minutes seems like overkill unless its Zero outside. Garages can be 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp. Do you let your car warm up for 10 minutes before you drive it. Stats show its a waste of time and money.

I was more worried about running the engine for half a minute with the doors closed. I open the door before starting. CO is the silent killer.

@@grattonland my first thought as well