Dude great stuff there, awesome explanation of the suspension geometry and how to address some of the limitations of the factory setup.

I run replacement OEM links and no rear sway bar. All poly in the front. Been very pleased with the rear compliance over the worn links. Great video showing the binding effect on these 1st Gen cars. Have never had suspension bind up on me but even on a track day I know I only probably pushing the car 7/10 of what a experienced driver does; it still does handle very well for its age. On RB spring set with Koni struts and shocks.

Thanks for these videos! Keep it going! Cheers!

Great clear and simple explanation. Definitely a disappearing knowledge set with everything going IRS. Hope to see you try this on one of yours at some point.

Great to revisit these problems, as I built my car back in the 90s'/00's with the early car forums. For racing, yea you have to get creative or change quite a lot of stuff to get that truck axle to act right. The best street setup we had back then without changing everything was poly all around, but leave the upper trailing arms stock to keep them compliant. I still run that setup to this day on my widebody 84, running about 350hp from a TII engine into an SE rearend with 245's. 80k miles, 20 years and nothing has broke yet.....

I ordered some Energy Suspension bushings and got rid of the Old cracked bushings.one Kool Way to get your Old bushings out,is set them on fire,in a safe place they'll fall right out...rear is free floating now....

So interesting!!! Ive subscribed

I cut the ends of the 4 links off that bolt to axle. Welded on 2 inch Johnny Joint at end of all 4 links. That alone made a great difference. Enough that I put rear sway-bar back on. It's a budget build fun CSP class SCCA solo2 car that I street drive. AUTOCROSS.

What are you're thoughts on the t3 adjustable or any other adjustable upper links with Rose Ball joints. My thinking that the ball rose ball joints will allow more twist while maintaining the factory mounting points

I had this issue when I lowered my car with the racing beat springs, the lower spring makes the binding worse.

Questions - 18:17 - I am running coilovers along with adj upper & lowers with himes (yes I bought the t3 catalog minus their panhard bar) they now offer better placement for the upper link like you mentioned, this seems to allow the axel to move free, bouncing my weight on the car, however I seem to be getting chatter from the pass side coil when I go down the road. Disassembled and the spring from the coil is actually making contact with the threads on the coilbody. This does not happen on the driver side. I am running stock watts with plan to convert the watts link to himes this winter as a solution. In your eyes is this actually my issue or maybe something else is not setup correctly that I overlooked? 2 - Car drives nice through mild turns but when you get to tighter turns the rear end kind of "shifts" pulling me outside of the corner, this typically occors halfway through the corner. Is this due to the extra binding you mentioned at 18:17? I never drove the stock suspension that hard through the corners so I don't know if this is an issue I caused by converting to coils

good video. thanks for the explanation. I am curious if you have experienced this or heard of this issue... i have found it to be the case on both my FBs. When i really lower the car the axle not only gets shifted to the right but also the right side is jacked up more. for that reason I was considering going panhard. that is what some people have recommended for lowered FB. i will be using this car as a drift car / fun street car if that makes any difference. what are you thoughts?

I've seen folks take the upper rear bushing on the axle and drill holes in it to soften it up and give it some flex (usually with poly bushings). Have you ever tried that?

Do you think changing the length of the upper links would yield any benefits? I've read some things that criticize the unequal length of the upper and lower.

Awesome channel, liked and subscribed 🤙I really appreciate the info! I'm going to have to get bushings for my 79' and people in the forums say Poly bushings in the rear make binding worse and to keep It OE rubber. Do you have thoughts on this? also I have a 80' parts car that may have slid into a curb like you mentioned and I'm getting ready to pull the rear. I'll comment if it's damaged or not when I do.

I slid my 1st gen GLS into a curb, destroyed my driverside suspension, and bent the rear hub, but the rear end and links were fine.

Hey man the video is good. Not new info to me but really well explained and demonstrated. Try and find a copy of susko’s book on RX7 first gen suspension. Was it Greg cozier you spoke to?

My panard bar is mounted behind the diff not in front. Works great. Send me a Facebook link if you have a page. I can put you in contact with some other FB RX7 racer in the SCCA. I currently run one in the GTL class.

Why not just run parallel 4 links to the axle and ... triangulated to either the top or bottom of the diff. That’s what SCCA GT3 and GT2 cars do running quick change diffs.