Thank you and thanks for watching.

It should be done from inner side and it will be better

Thank you and thanks for watching.

+Sollis Janus - I have a number of hammers, the planishing hammer I use in this video is marked 'W.Germany'. It weighs 6.5 ounces, ( I also have a heavier one) which is what I find useful on 18G and 20G copper and silver. Planishing hammers have a convex face and a flat face; it's important to keep them polished like a mirror, while working, I keep a piece of the 2000 grit 3M polishing cloth on a piece of old bath towel (padding) on the table beside me to rub the hammer face onto occasionally while I am planishing. You can buy hammers in a lot of places and there are wonderful American (blacksmith) hammer makers that would appreciate your patronage. You will find them on Instagram and in some groups on Facebook. Thanks for watching!

What does dressing it mean?

www.allcraftusa.com

It's my first time seeing this craft, I thought your steak was an engine intake valve. maybe an engine piston could also be used. Thanks for sharing, good video.

16 or 20oz sheet stock? Gahd I miss working with metal. Seeing the scribe line gleam against the copper gave me a *squee*

That is my planishing hammer, it is 23 mm or just under i inch in diameter. One side has a convex face and the other is a flat face. it weighs 8.5 ounces. I have another one, same size faces and it weighs 11.8 oz either one will be good for the 5 inch disk when you are setting the base. I tend to use the lighter one on 20G metal and the heavier one on 18 to 16 g metal. good luck and have fun. just don't be in a hurry. If you think the hammer is too large for setting the base, raise it a couple more courses before you set the base. I don't do that before I have made three courses of raising and then not again until it is nearly done with the raising. I have just finished teaching a silversmith class this semester at FIT. We have had to alter hammers for raising and planishing. I am planning on making a video of how they are done and used. Thanks for watching.

@@CeropegiaThank you, sir for your words of encouragement. The piano analogy rings true for me and I appreciate your emphasis on patience. I have another question on a raising stake. I think in one of your other videos you used a steel pipe. What size would be best for my application? I’ve looked on line and am a bit confused and there are no shops in my area to actually look at what I’d be getting. Could I use a steel pipe instead of a pricey stake?

Yes, I am selling these things. You can see some of it at www.sagessilver.com Please write to me as I also have a lot of copper bowls and silver plated things that are not on the website. Many of the tableware pieces are still available that you see on the site. Thank you for watching. my email is colsage@earthlink.net if you have something specific in mind, ask and I can either make something for you or show you something from my inventory.

@@Ceropegia thank you for your message and contact details. Will send you what Im looking for maybe you have it. I also saw your website! Great work :)

For any cookware I wouldn't feel comfortable with anything less than 16 gauge (small frying pan). Most sauce pans are about 4 mm thick with tin linings. And those pans would have round edges not the sharp edge that I'm making on the tumbler. Thanks for watching.

@@Ceropegia thanks for the answer now for the boring part of finding someone who has that kind of products

He mentions in the first video of the series in the comments that it's a 5" 18 gague piece, but 20 would do in a pinch

if you send a photo I might be able to do it. I am currently making bowls for olive oil lamps that use floating wicks, send a photo y]to my email from my website www.sagessilver.com , (i don't want to post my email address here). Thanks for watching

+Moon Irie Bey You could probably do it with a properly dressed ball peen hammer with a convex face. The planishing hammer might be lighter than the ball peen in weight. All I can say is to try, with attention to what is happening and adjusting your strikes to get what you need , you should be able to do it. But it is always better to have the right tool for the job. Good luck and thanks for watching.

+Sage Reynolds thank you! I am also wondering what search term I would use to find a metal stake similar to yours with the flat side?

Try Allcraft here in New York, I got mine there. He has stakes of all sorts and a fine collection of hammers. www.allcraftusa.com there's one under Mushroom stakes. you'll have to look carefully at the page, it's not user/graphically friendly. Good luck.

In this video I am using a planishing hammer. The head has w.germany on it and the handle has a turquoise sticker that is very worn and could possibly be Grobet. I have had this so long, as it was one of my first hammers, that I have no recollection of the brand, the brands were not as important as the weights when I was buying them. It is one of my favorite hammers and was most likely bought from Metalliferous in New York around 2006. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the information, I buy items from the new york store on occasion, I will look at their hammer selection and at Rio's as well, happy hammering

لا تقلق بشأن ذلك ، نحن نفهم ما تقوله!

Copper (and Silver) is different from aircraft metals. We are making a beaker here and the metal is constantly annealed between rounds and operations. I am also working 20 and 18 gauge metal. Cracking has never been a problem at this end of the vessel. Thanks for watching.

This was done several years ago as I was learning. The first tap is a light tap to see where I am hitting. The second one is the metal setting/positioning strike. I don't do it quite like that now as I have learned how to position from the previous strike and make mostly positioning hits. Perhaps I should make another video. Thanks for watching, I have a great deal of respect for blacksmiths seeing the iron work fences, grilles and doors around New York and watching the knife makers on the history Channel. I have also made a lot of my tools with iron (I don't understand all the different types...) but not on the scale of a blacksmith and I look to blacksmiths when I need a new stake.

@@Ceropegia ye not a critacism really just an observation its not efficient , if you were doing it for 4 hours straight in 50 c heat etc , was a big nono in the blacksmith college i went to , i made one copper bracelet but i really want to make a drinking cup (or 12) peice on copper is nuts over in the UK though , they are hijacking copper pipe plumbing trucks atm , at one point 3 years ago you could walk in to a plumbing store buy copper pipe and make a profit weighing it in for scrap the same day !!

I came to this work late in my life. I was taught by a goldsmith and I have used his methods, which have been successful for the work I am doing. I would have liked to have your apprenticeship which I can only assume was for making work of a higher class/standard which was aimed at a professional career as a silversmith. I do use compass and pencil for raising guides and I only use the dividers to mark the base as I do in this video. I have never had a problem with the light scratched guide on the base. When you say 'caulking' I have no idea what that is about unless it means to hammer the edge. These videos were meant as more of a blog in which I take you along as I learn and the process becomes clear. (They are meant as a guide for amateurs and hobbyists not professionals.) My instructors, like you, have been in the trade for many years, in their familiarity with the processes, the instruction sometimes suffered as they would leave out key parts of operations. As I figured out what was missing and gained control of the various operations, I would make a video bringing in all those points I found missing in my own instruction. My vessels are of artisan quality, with the hand (mine) always evident in the work. My goal is not for that perfect mirror surface but to make a surface on which to chase. My clients want to see hammer marks and have a well proportioned piece that feels good in the hand. You can see some of my finished vessels at Sagessilver.com Thank you for your comment and for watching my video

I appreciate that you are not professional and doing this as a hobby or way of expressing yourself. My argument is you are not showing the most basic lessons in blocking and raising. The people who are following you will only compound the errors taught to you.. Who ever taught you should be ashamed. There an easier and more efficient ways of creating a bottom or foot to any vessel. It is not magic or hidden from non "smiths" it's universal. If you use pencil and compass for guides, why haven't you shown you using them? It hasn't given the correct method.

I see, since you have not said how to (or made a video)*, in my Feingold-Seitz book "Silversmithing", that setting the bottom is also done with a wooden dowel being hammered into a bottom of a vessel. (No mention of how a center is found inside the vessel and there is no way mentioned to define the edge of the base.) I can only assume that is the easy method that you mention. However, it also says that it should be done on each raising. With this method I do not need to set the base again except for a little touch up after the vessel is raised. On these small vessels I do not need to draw lines to control my raising, I draw the compass guide lines on taller and larger vessels, but I have not been doing any of those in these blog like videos. Your attitude seems to be one of resentment and I find your comment about my teachers to be uncalled for and rude. You know nothing about either of them or their talents and accomplishments. There is no "correct" way to do anything, there are better ways, other ways, easy ways and hard ways. Success is often the product of calm attention to detail in the progress of the work. An open perspective to the methods and accomplishments of others in this age of changing technology would benefit us all. Respectfully, this is my last communication with you. Thank you for the conversation. * will you describe the easy method?

Who ever Feingold-Seitz is, is completely wrong. I was apprenticed to one of London's premier silversmiths CJ Vander. Have worked for Barnards, Comyns and Grant Mcdonald. None of these silversmith companies use the methods you are teaching. My attitude is not resentment more exasperation that you are showing complete novices the incorrect methods. Just out of interest how would you hand raise an oval teapot, making the spout, handle and hinge? I can explain it in full, from deciding the size of blank to using the pot. This I did at the age of 18. It was when I learnt that scribe lines can be hammered through metal. THERE IS A CORRECT WAY. Find a silversmith trained in London and learn. When I Googled Feingold-Seitz it comes up with a diet! Try reading Bernard Cuzner. An English silversmith who's methods are centuries old and still being used. Forget Feingold-Seitz and start to learn the correct ways of silversmithing

Rupert Feingold and William Seitz. Silversmithing copyright 1983 - If you describe the correct method, I will practice and make a video.

Did you read my description above? This channel is all about how things are done in real time. If someone needs a 2 minute video they either already know how to do this or do not want to know and will never do it. The commentary is also for people new to the craft; teachers all too often know their craft so well that they demonstrate without mentioning things that are second nature to them but may look like magic to newbies. I made these from the perspective of a newbie who recognized what was missing from the usual demonstrations. Thanks for watching.

Simply saying it is wrong is not good enough. I have been taught by a Russian silver/goldsmith and this has been effective for the more than 10 years I have been raising vessels. If you have a better way or know what is wrong, tell me, I am willing to try different methods and to learn something new. If you cannot, you shouldn't criticize because you will have no standing in the forum without it.

40 years as a professional goldsmith - apprenticed to the workshops of Stuart Devlin - maker of the millennium bowl that he designed now a primary exhibit in the Goldsmiths Company collection - work in many palaces throughout the world, past sessional tutor on the silversmithing and jewellery course at the University of The Creative Arts, Rochester - and still a maker of high end Objet d'art - I think I may be qualified to comment - for one - the method for creating the flat bottom - and you shouldn't scribe your lines into the surface - you just have to get it out again later - permanent maker pen - I could go on - but I have work to do

Oh! And a flat hammer to set a base and done strike on the corner - it will cut - I only mention this to attempt to preserve a profession that has been my life - and is rapidly dying

@@peterlunn2927 Por favor 🙏 que alguien le escriba en inglés a Peter Luna que si es sabe hacerlo mejor, que por favor nos enseñe, nosotros queremos aprender.