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Great point and I agree thanks for commenting.

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Hold on, if your pH is high you want to add Liquid muriatic acid to lower it. Watch these two videos. On Alkalinity: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bJZ6YLKU1MmxgKM.html On pH: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/op1hfMyamdu-l40.html

@@PoolSchooler I already watched!

@@PoolSchooler I watched the video called, Raising the Alkalinity and lowering the PH. If I remember correctly, you said to raise the Alkalinity first, one pound of Baking Soda at a time, then add the muriatic acid. Is that not what I need to do?

@@NOT-WOKE-007 You are correct.

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Sorry it really doesn’t matter when you add the chemicals. Make sure the pump motor is running to help mix the chems around.

It could bet that your water source has that pH. Test the water that is used to fill your pool and see. That just may be the problem

Yes you can. I’d wait a couple of hours before adding the Bicarb

To be honest with you, I’m not sure so I could not recommend doing so.

I suggest testing and adjusting your pool chemistry once a week. Unless you have a huge amount of people in the pool say over a weekend then you may want to add some chlorine once people are done.

I have never used them so I really can't recommend or not. Sorry.

I’ve never diluted it I pour it gradually around the perimeter of the pool with the pump motor running.

​@@PoolSchoolerI guess everyone has their own preference but here's why I don't like pouring undiluted along side the perimeter. The acid is strong stuff and doing it this way you will get drops at the side of your pool that can harm the pool. I first dilute it in a large bucket and then I pour it slowly in front of a return flow. This way the acid dissolves quickly before it is pumped back to your equipment. Alternatively you could use a dosage pump to automatically add small amounts of acid to your pool. Thanks for your videos!

Without a doubt liquid chlorine is the purest and doesn't have CYA in it. However it's also the least convenient. Meaning you usually have to test and add liquid chlorine daily (maybe every other day if it's not too hot). So that's the trade off.

First of all I don't trust Leslies period. I've never heard that TA affects CYA or visa versa. I'd also trust your kit over Leslies. They're notorious for selling you a ton of chems you don't need. So if your reading is TA 100 then you're fine! If you CYA is at 50 you're fine!

@@PoolSchooler thank you sir!! Love your channel! Keep up the good work for us non pool pros!

@@stevedeviney2273 Non pool pros are the reason I started the channel. Glad to hear it's been helpful. Keep on watching and sharing. 👍

I actually did a video specifically on that. Here’s a link to it it’s very short, and it will answer your question kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLKBqqRkyZPJYo0.htmlfeature=shared

Can you please email me a pic of what you’re describing. Since i don’t use the liquid kits ill have to see the results. But in short the test kit you are using should have a color scale tied to a correlating ppm level which should tell you if its high or low etc. kennypoolschool@gmail.com

Actually there is no way to donate to my channel but I am producing a travel series that we’re doing crowdfunding on and we’re excepting donations to that. Go to www.tappingtheworld.com and there’s a place to donate either via PayPal or Venmo. Also watch the video it will help you understand the project. And I would love it if you would donate to that. I am the producer/Director/Choreographer of the series. Which we’re planning to release the first season summer of 2023

@@PoolSchooler Will do!

There are lots of factors that can contribute to that climate environment vegetation how much dust and pollen‘s are in your ear. It’s very hard to predict. But if you’re able to stabilize it for 15 days that’s not bad. It could also be your water source. Because water evaporates so you’re adding freshwater to your pool and that water source might have a very low pH.

Unless you have filtration and a filter pump running, it’s a waste of time and money to try and get your chemicals balanced. You need the pump running to circulate the chemicals around the pool and you need the filter to filter out dirt you can’t just add chemicals and keep the pool clear.

I don't understand your issue about "able to get the filter going for 4 more months"...please reword

No!!!

No they are not. Don't use Hydrochloric acid in your pool.

Muriatic acid is 31% hydrochloric acid. Stick with muriatic.

Not that I'm aware of, however a search may turn something up.

I found this online: Also known as “dry acid”, sodium bisulfate is a fine powder commonly used to lower the pH in pools. Sodium bisulfate is typically preferred over muriatic acid due to its safer use and ease of storage

hydrochloric acid too aparantly

Maybe a filter issue. A common occurrence is when the algae is killed, but the filter isn't catching it, so it just keeps recirculating through the system. Sand filters are the most common filter to have this situation, as they have the coarsest filtration. I have seen people spend literally hundreds of dollars on chlorine and algaecides trying to kill algae which is already dead. Other types of filters can have the same issue if the internals are damaged.

@@Hannelore7 did you watch my video on startup chemicals and how to add them? If not, here’s a link: Pool Start Up What Chemicals to Use and How to Add Them kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z8dklJWBrLfHZXk.html Tomorrow pH is liquid muriatic acid. No more than 2 quarts at a time with the filter pump running a couple hours. Retest and repeat as needed. And I would really recommend you watch my video and instead of chemicals cause it’s very helpful.

@@PoolSchooler Yes I did after i posted...did what you said..pool is perfect this am. Your the best !!!!

@@Hannelore7 Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please share my channel.

Typically liquid muriatic acid has a greater effect on pH. Dry pool acid tends to affect the alkalinity more and the pH less.

Sorry, I would beg to differ with you I pulled this from the web and baking soda is sodium bicarbonate baking soda Both are great choices to raise pH and alkalinity, however, if you are aiming to make large pH and alkalinity adjustments at the same time, then soda ash is better. But, if you want to raise the alkalinity level without overly affecting the pH level, we recommend using baking soda.

You can add so much bicarb that it can over do it and possibly lock up the alkalinity.

How is your Cyanuric Acid Level?

@@PoolSchooler How do you think about the Clorox chlorine tabs? Had a huge problem with people adding cheap tabs and their Cyanuric acid levels skyrocketing.

@@cjadventures8840 The Clorox tablets are pretty good. FYI the tablets I get from my wholesaler are really good and I've not had a problem with the small amount of CYA they contain.

I’m going to stop using chlorine tabs unless I’m going on vacation. I’m switching to liquid chlorine.

If you do a google search for bicarbonate of soda for pools you'll find what you're looking for.👍

@@PoolSchooler found what i needed thanks. you have to look that's for sure

@@olgakiely6898 glad you were able to find it. On my membership website. Poolschooler.com members are able to access a products page with links to a majority of the products that I use to make it easier for them. It’s $99 for a one year membership plus it comes with more immediately access to me for advice and questions, and special checklists/cheat sheets for daily, weekly, and seasonal pool maintenance for your specific type of pool filter, and system. Might be worth checking out.

Sodium bicarbonate & bicarbonate of soda are the same thing

The ideal range for alkalinity is 80-120ppm.