as a teacher you are never boring....it would be impossible to fall asleep in your class.

PREACH IT, BROTHER!!! The arrow is pointless if the bow isn't tuned first.

You're the best thing to happen to archery. I was lost before watching your videos, now atleast I'm on a path. It's extremely difficult to figure this stuff out on your own, not having a press, and a thousand tools. Thank you.

“You people are idiots” -Been here for a while, SO glad people and companies are listening to you and you’re doing so well (though it’s probably hell keeping up!) Good on you sir.

Just received my RF kit. Looking forward to getting this process going

I’m glad you finally (I’m not sure I’ve ever heard you say in 2 years’ish I’ve watched you) talk about the problems us long armed knuckle draggers have when we try to go high FOC. But keep the content coming I love how brutal you are on stupid people!

Keep going brother! We need this now more than ever

Watched all your videos. Found my arrow and figured out the arrow spine I wanted and a 100 grain brass insert. I bareshaft tuned and cut the arrows as I was doing it. 1/2 inch at a time until I got to where I wanted with a 100 grain brass insert with a 250 grain field point (ordered your field points from ethics). I ended up with a 29 1/2 inch carbon to carbon arrow with a 340 spine. It was flying great bare shaft. I then fletched it with 4/2 inch feathers and nock tuned. Then I tuned my 250 grain single bevel cutthroat broad heads. The feathers and the broad heads are left bevel and left wing feathers. I have shot trad bows for over 10 years and have never got this kind of arrow flight! This is a compound with a 60lb draw weight at 29 inches! It took some time but I am so pleased with the results! 670 grain finished arrow weight that slams the target! The cutthroats are easy to sharpen as well. I will send you a pic of the first big nasty I stick buddy! Thanks for your help man!

I just cannot get enough of this high FOC content. Always looking forward to your next video. Keep it up guy. I appreciate it.

Just got my ethicsarchery archery inserts and RF test kit in last night for my 300 grain black label quantums. Couldn't be more pumped to finish this hole process out!

I am definitely spine'ing up this year. This past year, I shot Easton 340's with 100g Muzzy Trocars at 70#, 29.5 draw. I had one kill this year. Heart shot @ 30yrds. Perfect. But my confidence was low in my arrow/broadhead setup (weight mainly) all season, and I passed on shots because of it. This year, my hope is to try the daysix gear arrows at 250 spine (12.6g/in.), 100g inserts, and 200g Iron Will Wides... IF I can get those numbers to bareshaft-paper-tune, I watch guys like Cam Hanes and John Dudley religiously for their shooting form, practice, and motivational advice. I watch Steven Rinella (Meateater) and THP dudes for how to be a better overall hunter. The Ranch Fairy is now at the top of my list for weapons/ammunitions protocol. Your philosophy just flat out makes more sense. Thanks man!

On second review of this video, I am glad you made the point that longer arrows will typically not be able to achieve the higher end of FOC. Arrows over 500 -550 grains, cut on contact, bone cracking broadheads that open everytime, and bareshaft tuning for improved arrow flight/penetration is the goal, and all the people said.. AAAMEN.

Like the new Sound effects TROY!!! And yes he does answer and responds to emails!!!! The ranch Fairy has changed my out look for putting down meat!!! THANK YOU TROY!!!!🙌🙌👍

Can't get enough, this is my primary source of learning and resource as a relative newbie. Keep up the great work and bucking the populist thinking.

just order 300 grain tuffheads last year my set up was 420 grains arrow this year 652 grain 25.7 foc, getting the best arrow flight i have ever had, bare shaft tune out to 40 yards Thanks to you (all the COOL people were in the 60 )

Great content Troy, keep up the good work. Really good videos with the Hunting Public too. Some of us see the errors of our ways, twizzlers and flappers are not the way foreword for me. I was surprised in the difficultly in finding 250 and 300 spine arrows in some of the common brands....and the 250 carbon express are 400 spine. WTF. Found some Black Eagle Carnivores and ordered 2 of each in 250 and 300. Im going to test them against my Carbon Express Pile Driver Hunters 350 that i have been playing around with from 540-615 grains. I think i am under spined at 60 pound draw weight and 28” draw length.

Great video man! Love the content

Just order a kit can't wait I'm going to do a video review

When are we going to get another Dilbert Von Schlupp update? Love the content! Educational, helpful, and entertaining!

Thanks for everything you do man! Would be cool to see a video of you and the hunting public do a pig hunt together!

Dont leave out the trad guys like me. The way I see it, we need this research the most. At 55yrs old Im shooting a 40lb recurve and need all the help I can get. through

Hey I just wanted to say thanks for the videos. They are great!! I have been learning alot more and I have that same shirt but looks better on you lmao. I just got new strings on my new bow. Have about 150 shots on the new strings. I'm thinking of going to 125grn tips. I am shooting 30" draw at 70# and I had to step up to a 300 spine arrow cause I was under spine with the 340 spine. I have 9.9 foc with my arrows now with 100grn points with going to 125grn it's up to 11.8. Total arrow weight is 443grns with 100 grn points at 30.5 arrow length. I mostly hunt black tail, black bear and elk. I want my arrow to be able to break that shoulder bone and penetrate to make a ethical kill. I dont want to wound a animal and it running around with a arrow in it. So thanks for videos they are helping alot on building my arrows.

Hahaaha. IBO EXPLOSION!!!!! Thanks for mentioning VPAs, they’re great Broadheads

I have been shooting bows for 51 years. I just recently started the FOC tuning journey, with recurve, compound, AND crossbow. The first time you draw back or shoot an arrow with NO fletching on it, you may be gritting your teeth and squinting your eyes thinking the arrow is going to make a right hand turn and sail off into the sunset. I stripped perfectly good fletching off a crossbow bolt, shoved 250 grains on the front, (I used to think 175 was heavy) and dared it to shoot right. I got back 10 yards from the target to start because I had no way of knowing where the bolt was going. I pointed the crossbow center on two stacked straw bails and reluctantly pulled the trigger. Just WOW. Bolt zipped into the target and all I could see was the end of the nock staring back at me. Couldn't believe it. Moved back to 15. Same thing. Nothing but nock straight into the target. I know I got lucky getting the weight right the first test. If you think about it, raw shaft tuning with different tip weights is the ONLY way possible to tune a crossbow for good bolt flight. Similar with recurve and longbow though you might build the shelf out if your spine is too weak. I stripped fletching off recurve and compound bow arrows and was not so lucky as it took several changes in tip weight to get nock straight target impact. Thanks to Troy and Dr. Ashby for sharing the knowledge. Kudos brothers.

About time my friend I love your channel love the down to earth.

Hi Troy, Although I don't hunt as I'm in the UK and it's illegal here. I shoot 3ds and even so your You Tube posts are really helpful, especially bare shaft tuning. Keep them coming bud ! Kev

Your caffeine consumption is as legendary as your arrow knowledge.🤣 new to the game and loving your work.

More great stuff!!!!

You need to get you some some Ranch Fairy merchandise

You the man Troy!

Klezmer music was a nice touch !! I can imagine some of the emails you received.

Maaaaaan.....thank you for spending your time on making these videos......i follow you on Facebook also

Best hillbilly impression on youtube! Another great vid, thanks Troy.

Loving the continued content and instruction. Question regarding arrow diameter. Do you have an opinion on it or have you dealt with different arrow diameters? 4, 5 or 6 mm arrow diameters?

My local archery shop thought I was crazy that I wasn't okay with cam lean. Its common sense... You want everything square and least friction on the strings. Or at least I do.

I'm convinced...shooting a 68lb/340/125g/29"CtoC that bullet holes paper, but I still see some flight issues visually, not a smooth bee line. So I am taking a leap of faith, Sirius 250V, Al post s/s sleeve, 200g field tips and broadheads. Lets see what happens. I do have full bow shop, so I'm in spec...😉

Man I enjoy the videos and information, I'd like to know how well some of your formulas would work with trad. Bows shooting 400-500 spine 30 in. Arrows around 10 grn. Per inch. New student at this

Hey RF. KE is a messenger. Momentum is the message. HeHe Great video man!

It’s funny that this information is revolutionary to so many and speaks volumes about what the compound industry has touted as the important factor to killing animals e.g. speed. When Dr. Ashby’s studies first came out the traditional community really adopted a lot of his teachings although there was slight pushback there too. It’s funny to me when I talk to “bow hunters” who know nothing about sharpening broadheads or tuning arrows 😂 Thanks for getting the word out, Troy.

This is why I like single string bows. If I have the tiller, and lateral alignment good, then it’s either me or the arrow. It’s simple at that point.

Regarding arrow flex at 5:20 and on; check out an NHRA Top Fuel dragster and you can understand that concept; those dragsters bow up crazy with the g-forces; pretty neat to watch; same principle;

I think your comments about the perfectly square bow is interesting. In my opinion, a perfectly square and dead nuts center shot bow will shoot great out of a hooter shooter, but when you add the human element things change. You have to account for face pressure on the string and the slight amount of grip torque. I was so stressed after getting my bow tuned (at a reputable shop) because my centershot is slightly off. BUT, it paper tunes great and my field points, bare shafts, and fixed broadheads all have the same point of impact. Just a thought.

Exactly what you said I'm shooting 70lb and with the 100 gr insert in I can shoot the 100to 150 gr perfect but starts getting to the edge with the 175 and 200.

Dude. You just mentioned the spring in the drop away. I just had the shop adjust that. I’ve been having a smacking sound when shooting. I made the mistake of tuning this and that only to have to redo everything.

RF meshed Windows 95 sound effects with a KZfaq vid! Now that’s EXTREME

Sadly many shops do a poor job of setup to begin with

My setup is similar to the ranch fairy’s. GT cutdowns with a 100grain brass, and 100 grain montec bringing them just slightly below 500 grains. And I think I’m gonna add another 50 grains of aluminum because it’s longer, and I’m definitely getting that magnus broad head I know the ranch fairy don’t like flappy wings but I’ve had great killer results with the grim reaper. I can’t say I have much faith in any other mechanicals. I definitely agree 100% with ranch fairy methods, maximize lethality, build adult arrows that hit like a truck

Question: When bare shaft tuning my arrows are shooting knock high by quite a bit. I've adjusted the rest as far as I can to where the arrow is actually coming out of the bow with the knock lower than the point but when it hits the target it is still knock high. The cams are timed. Its shooting straight just knock high. I'm shooting 31" arrows, 20.2% FOC, 628 grains, 55# draw weight, 30.25" draw length, and 335 FPS IBO. Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong? I'm new to tuning so I'm hoping I'm just overlooking something easy, but I'm at a loss. Thanks.

How do I get ahold of the ranch fairy to talk about my set up and why my broadheads arnt flying with my field points

What rest do you recommend for heavier arrows and fixed blades? I’ve heard that whisker biscuits don’t do well with heavy set ups? I’m trying to make the decision for my first bow. Thanks!

At 7:50~.....🤣🤣🤣🤣 Sorry, but that was funny. Great vid RF!

Great video. I’m stumped with nock high problem. Shooting a 45 pound Bear Takedown off the shelf using 30” 400 spine arrows, 100 grain insert with 145 grain point for a total of 245g up front, 29” draw using both split finger glove and also tried 3 under Yost tab. Got bare shafts to fly perfect straight at 9 yards but nock is still slightly high. Tried moving nocking point up and down but still slightly high. Any suggestions to correct would be greatly appreciated.

Can I get 100 gr inserts with 100 gr and 125 gr field points and just use the arrows I have now that are 300 spine carbon express to test or does it have to be your test kit. I was actually thinking of doing both ways just to see what results I get.

I’m now convinced to invest in 500-600+ grain arrows after a few months of it eating away at me... Damn you!!! I’m “all in” with getting Adult arrows this week. Moreover, I’m buying a new bow tomorrow with about 70-75 draw weight at 30 draw length. 250 spine arrows should do the trick right? I’m aware that you suggest getting a 250 and 300 spine arrow, then tinkering with the ranch fairy field tips, but my bow shop doesn’t have a “bin”, so I have to buy at least 6 of each in that situation. That said, I’d rather commit to one or another (250 or 300 spine), but will do as you recommend....reluctantly... Thanks bud 👍

Im trying a thumb release. Today i bare shaft tuned out to 50 yards. What ive learned today is that bare shafting also shows inconsistencies in my anchor point with the new release. Best bare shaft flight is out to 40 yards with a good nock tune and anchor point. I want to go ahead and fletch them but now i kinda want to wait and just practice my anchor point with the bare shafts. It was an ENTIRE process today and far too much to type lol….anyways, im learning some things bare shafting.

I just received my Apollo Ranch Ferry kit with the 100 to 200 grain tips. My shafts were cut to 29". I love your info and you talk about insert tuning. The inserts fit loose in the shafts so do they need to be glued in before starting the bare shaft tuning? If so how do I adjust the insert after gluing? Thank you

What would you think for a 27.5 dl and 55 lbs?

My serious arrows came and the inserts were in a bag with the field points. Didn’t know I’d have to glue them in myself. What do you recommend for glue? Stupid question, but I’ve never built arrows.

Would you remove the fletching from factory installed fletched arrow to go through the process or skip to the tuning fletched instruction? I considered just doing 1 or 2, but my lazy behind wants to be sure the RF thinks the bare shaft exercise is worth the work for that part. I have purchased the Ethics 200-300 kit to start "The Process". My bow is 55 lb pull, 29" draw, and I have 17 - 250 spine GT Hunter XT arrows that I have used for years. I am hoping to land around 625-650 grains. But I will walk the process.

Just starting this process, just wanted to make sure I am getting everything in order for the super tune. So from start to finish, take insert tune first, then nock tune, then tune with RF field point kit bare shaft, then add fletchings and get zero'd, then zero with broadhead, then you are ready to kill stuff?

I know Ranch Fairy you hate Easton fmj, but that was what I have. How do you think a ethics 150 grain insert for 5mm arrow would work for a 24.5 inch draw length and 63 pounds with a g5 striker v2?

You will be charged distribution having so many snorting fairy dust. Great video

How do you decide on arrow length?I'm brand new to this and of all the factors in arrow building this seems to be the most up to personal preference.

My bareshafts are grouping together, and I fletched one arrow and its hitting almost a foot over from the barshafts. Am I over spinned? not sure what to make of this.

Don't forget magnus has 150 models as well!

Honest question: there seems to be a change of philosophy and technique from an earlier video where you talked about moving the rest. I'm guessing that your thinking is evolving as you continue to experiment and learn? I know I have to take my bow into the shop. I tried moving the rest, changing tip points and draw weight. Nothing happens. Everything arrow I shoot is nock right. Older string. Maybe needs yoke tuned?

You should make $$ on ur time and effort. You are helping all of us and going to change hunting archery for the better! Make a buck! U deserve it.

Fairy - your the SSShit ! Keep it coming. 😳

It's hard to find a good bow shop anymore

I went up on my spine and total arrow weight is 453 I know not 500 and at 19.5 20% foc 27 inch arrow hit a hard spot in target had to stand on it use both hands to pull out 🤔 besides you think more standard would be 150 grain broad heads gotta put those grains somewhere much beefier broad head seems like a good thing

I'm running into this now... my new bow and new bow strings stretched alittle lol.. I kept hearing this wierd sound lol my strings are slapping my cams took me all day until I realized what was going on haha. I'm a idiot I had moved everything changed sights and rest.. I shot 550 and 535 grains 65/70ď

Anyone have luck with 27.5” draw shooting 75lbs arrow length 26.5”. What spine and weight everyone using trying find starting point.

Does changing arrow brands, but keeping same spine and length, require re-tuning as well? I'm thinking yes as I type this (especially nock and insert) but wanted to ask.

Would a pass through that just punctured the opposite side of the animal and stayed in leave a better blood trail than a arrow that just blows right through? My theory is the arrow would allow air to vent the chest cavity and allow more blood to exit the lower wound. I was thinking that something on the fletching that stopped the arrow from jetting all the way through would leave a better trail.

Does the different arrows (other than splines badly) affect tune?

Wanting to order one of the ranch fairy test kits. Which one you recommend for a 25" draw at 70lbs. I want to shoot 550-650 grains.

I shoot a Hoyt rx3 ultra 65 lbs and 28.5 draw I normally shoot vaptkos but want to up the weight what spine do you recommend

I'm shooting 300 up front and it was close. Had 1 out of 6 that wouldn't behave. Cranked up 5lbs was gonna retune, and just the extra 5lb took it from close to lazer beams. I got lucky

RF love your work If nock tuning some bare shafts and they all constantly hit the bullseye bud nock lean left IS MY SPINE WEAK ? Thanks mate from down under

Can anyone answer me this one simple question... Do you cut the test kit arrows to your hunting length before you start the test or leave them the original length??

How many shots before you have to replace a bow string?

Sooo what's my first step with a brand new bow out of the box from the manufacturer?

Archery store owner told me, “there’s no kinetic energy, when you don’t hit bone”. I had no argument…. 🤣

What’s tour thoughts on the “Spinning Inserts”!?

Ranch Fairy. there are a lot of pig farmers looking for people to buy their product as slaughter facilites are closed. It would be a perfect time to video and demonstrate more. not that you havent already hit the nail on the head.

I don’t seem to hear you mention Bishop broadheads anymore. I own some Holy Trinity and some scientific methods that I’ve had for a few years. Great heads. Just curious if you’ve moved away from them?

Question if I use the kit do I still use their arrows or do I repeat the test but with another arrow

I changed strings cables and the bow is a different bow. I might put the old ones back.

watch the whole thing...but go to 10:40 if you can't.

"MAYBE IT'S YOU" diary entry for 6/19/2020...Dear diary, Why did I run that back stabilizer bar??? It must have caused "unfelt" tension in my grip to counteract the force of it hanging off the side of my bow. Here I was, thinking how nice it steadied from rolling L&R. Not so much, I developed a minor tail left, only during bareshaft, but with EVERY point weight variation from my tried and true go-to shaft. Bottom line, it's not easy thinking it's YOU. Since removing the back bar, the laws of physics are back in play. I was able to vary point weight until I got L and R tail action. Like a catfish in the scent-cone, hone in for middle ground. Nunchucks OUT

My neck muscle cramps up real bad the day after I shoot my bow. Help me!

One thing to add when at the shop and they want to shoot it through paper. The owner of the bow should shoot it not the tech. Gotta tune the bow to the shooter grip plays a big role in bare shafting

I really want to learn to shoot wood arrows

Ok so my Broadheads fly more true then my field points why is that?

What is FOC?

Bareshaft has way too many variables to paper tune, it's very dependent on consistent repeatable form. I'll call you in the morning

I can't be me because I never miss dew to been awesome

I have no idea how I ended up here (never shot a big game animal im a varmint hunter) I was mostly self taught archery and from the beginning I could tell heavy points shot better same with shooting about anything I saw a guy shoot a coyote with a 35gr going 4100fps never found it

Adult arrows are the 45/70s of the bowhunting world. If you ever own one or shoot one, you'll figure it out.

I agree with a 550 grain arrow, but I will die using a FMJ 5 mm.