Thanks for sharing that interesting hidden fuel filter tidbit. Seems they do put filters in. This blower had a "hidden" tiny filter as well in almost the same location. It was actually up inside the fuel tank but still part of the fuel line bib. The bottom half of this tiny filter inside the tank was all gummed up with what looked to be black paint particles. Every time the blower was 1/4 or less of fuel remaining, it would die out because very little fuel would get past all that gummed up paint on the bottom half of the filter screen. Cleaned it out, runs great again. I almost think it was small paint particles that were getting by that in-tank filter and that is what the dirt was in the bowl and jet? Hidden fuel filters... Definitely something to look for these days.

I added my own fuel filter. They don't seem to put them in anything anymore. There may be one in the line itself, I didn't check. I just always put one in if it's not present.

Very welcome

Thanks, glad it helped.

Glad it might help.

👍

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, the red idle jet is something I didn't even think to check when I cleaned this one out so thanks for pointing it out as another one that should be looked at and cleaned. No question, just a little bit easier doing a carb clean inside where it's warm 🙂👍

Glad it helped - happy blowing🙂

🙂

Yep, found the same thing on mine too after another person commented on it.

Glad it helped

Hope it helps cure the issue

Great to hear

Hope you are able to get it running properly. If it's still running lean after cleaning the float bowl and jet, you might want to take a peek into your fuel tank and check the fuel line bib filter (a little fine screen filter attached to the tank bib). Mine was gummed half way up with paint particles likely from when the factory threaded in the fuel hose bib into the tank. From day one, this blower would always start running lean when it got below 1/3 tank of fuel left and would never run below 1/4 tank. I never thought much of it until another commenter on this video mentioned this hidden filter, and sure enough after checking it, finding it all gummed up and cleaning it, the blower now runs well right until the tank is dry. My guess is most, if not all the dirt in the carb were fine paint particulates that got by that filter in the first place. Since cleaning that filter out, when I checked inside the carb bowl this fall, it was still spotless.

Glad it might help - have fun with the carb clean out 🙂

Good tip - I'll have to remember that for "next time".

My snow blower is surging too. So I’ll do this before next time or when the weather is warmer.

Approximately where would the air inlet valve be under the cowling? Thank you for the suggestion

@@randybarnhart6976 not an air inlet valve, the air intake opening on the carburetor. Snow blowers generally don’t have an air filter, so right there at that opening where a filter would normally go. Use a heavily gloved hand in case it spits back when you take your hand away. Again, not a guaranteed fix, but worth trying.

@@GNX157 John, thank you so much for your reply. I looked at it tonight and now it makes sense. I will try it tomorrow and will advise. Thanks again.

Thanks for the comment and good luck on your carb cleanout today. You may want to check inside the fuel tank for an in-tank filter. I later found one on this unit. It's part of the hose bib assembly and the filter screen is up in the tank (the hole assembly screwed from the bottom of the fuel tank). Mine was plugged half way up with what looked like black paint particles from when the tank was sprayed and overspray must have got inside is my guess. I'm also guessing it was some of those tiny paint particles that got past the in-tank fuel filter screen and into the carb.

Glad you got yours working too 👍

Great to hear 👍

Glad it helped

Glad it was helpful

@David Gonzalez III - Thanks back & glad you like it. 🙂

I'm even more amazed you'd question a known and standard practice to cure a lean running condition (which is exactly what the symptom here was). Of course in this video, I didn't have to resize the main jet, it just needed cleaning which is usually all that's required. I simply mentioned in passing, that sizing the jet up MIGHT AS A LAST RESORT be required to cure a lean running condition when EVERYTHING ELSE CHECKS OUT. Sorry for the all-caps, but you obviously missed those two important points in the video and I didn't want you to miss them again. Jets can develop build up & oxide, and they can get pitted by contaminated/old fuel reducing their flow rate; neither of which can be cured by cleaning. In those cases you either need to put in a new jet or ream/drill the old one. Jet's can also be incorrectly sized at the factory (yes it happens) or sized for a specific altitude of operation and then you have to size up or down if you live a couple thousand feet over or above that baseline. Same goes for temperature. Far from a terrible idea partner.

Hope you are able to get it working 100% once you are able to clean out the main jet.

There actually is a small in-line filter in the fuel tank. It's part of the threaded hose bib (at least on this model). I found it after making the video; so you may want to check your fuel tank as well to make sure that filter (if yours has one too) isn't getting clogged. Mine was half plugged (on the bottom half) with dried up black paint particles? Seemed to be from the paint they painted the fuel tank with and likely was overspray or the hose bib threading process that got into the tank? I'm sure it was there since day one because this snow blower would always start running lean when the tank was below 1/3 fuel remaining (about at the level on the filter where the paint was). After cleaning all the paint off the hose bib filter inlet, it runs great until the tank is a dry martini. I actually think a lot of that black crap that was inside the float bowl and the particle/s jammed in the main jet, were some of those paint particulates that got by that in-tank filter. I checked the bowl this fall, and it's still spotless.

@@Rchelicopterfun John, thank you the excellent video and replies to everyone’s questions. I will try cleaning the in-line fuel filter in tank. Thanks again. Much appreciated.

@@Rchelicopterfun Agreed, I am on my third fuel shutoff now on a 4 year old unit that has less than 10 hours on it. I thought about adding a small filter to offer a belt and suspenders sort of filtration because the one in the tank isn't all that great. After cleaning my carb several times, I noticed a couple of videos out there that showed removing the red low speed plug under the idle adjustment screw. I hadn't thought of that, but after pulling it out, I noticed the port on it had obstruction. I replaced that red plug and now my blower is running great again. John, your tutorial video is still top notch and one of the best I have seen. Keep up the good work! Take care.

@John Salt my issue wasn't the fuel filter that's part of the fuel shutoff on the bottom of the tank. My issue was that red low speed port on the carb that is notorious for getting clogged. I cleaned that out with a micro drill bit and that fixed it 100% and allowed me to keep the original OEM carb that came with the unit. Today it runs better than new because I updated the belts and friction disc to better than what the OEM provided new.

👍🙂

@Richard Curtis, yep, I didn't even think of the pilot because lean running which this clearly was, is not symptomatic of a pilot jet issue. Pilot jet issues generally manifest as rough running, especially during load & speed transitions (at least in my anecdotal small engine maintenance experience). In hindsight, I of course should have at least mentioned to inspect/clean it while it was all apart. Next time 😉

@@Rchelicopterfun All other videos pretty much say this is the fix it needs. I watched a few videos where they ONLY do this and it worked. I literally just got done doing mine. I did the whole carb and that pilot jet that sits outside the carb and it runs great. I had some dirt on every jet so it needed it. My unit was nowhere near as clean as yours, I'm jealous lol. Mine lives outside and it looks it. It runs very strong now though. Thanks for the great vid.

Thanks for watching 🙂

You're very welcome

Glad to hear it

Glad it was helpful

I have the same issue with mine, how did you fix it?

Thanks for the tip on the low speed jet. A few other folks have commented on checking that too so it's good to know there is another possible cause.

Hey just wanna say thankyou so much for your input, I did everything, cleaned everything and it was still sputtering, your solution completely fixed my problem. I OWE YOU!!!!!

you sir just saved me a whole bunch of anguish as well as stopped me from buying a new carb, thank you for this. I had my carb out 3 times and cleaned it over and over again, turned out to be the low speed.... again thank you.

@@bryanlumsden3573 Very welcome glad it helped. the problem is because of the EPA regulations the machines already run lean so even a tiny restriction will cause issues. Don't know what machine you have but if it is an Ariens with a knob to shut the fuel off keep an eye on that. On mine the internal seals had dissolved and that was what had plugged my carb up. Quick check of that value is next time you run it turn that value off and leave motor running see if in a minute or two the motor stalls. If with that turned off it keeps running for much more than a couple minutes that value is bad and may plug you up again.

DUDE, i cleaned the carb twice, new spark, oil, and 89 gas, (it was the dam JET!) red plastic part, I didnt even see gunk, i just pulled it cleaned it, sprayed inside i don't give a shit anymore. put it back in, made sure hoiles algined. bam, perfect. thank you! and thanks to the maker of the vid.

100% Correct. Thanks for mentioning that. It's something I found out last spring before putting the blower to bed for the summer. I removed the tank to clean it and when I un-threaded that small internal screen filter in the tank, I was shocked to find the bottom half of the screen tube clogged with black paint? Not sure if that's common, but might be worth checking for those that have not had theirs out.

Good tip!

John, great job on the video and thanks for helping us keep parts of our paychecks in our wallet. Taking a snowblower to a shop for a carb clean, or wallet cleaning, would cost about $200. Cheers!

Hope you get it sorted.

Yep, if access allows. I Mention that method in the description 👍

I agree all these guys are tearing ther machines apart for nothing you can get emulsion tube easy with out all that bullshit lol these guys have nothing better to do the joke of it all is this looks like a brand new machine if I payed that much for a snow blower and it was screwing up the first season they would be getting ther machine back he prob never drained the fuel in the end of season but he said it was doing it from the start yep I’d take it back I have a Poulenc pro and I got to take the tube out plus I’m going to do what another comment said I’m go to block we’re the air goes into carb running full out and take my hand of and on and the pressure could clean it out happy snow blowing not hate winter I want a closed in tractor lol

Hope you are able to get yours fixed as well - greetings back from Canada 🖖

@James Quill - presuming you are referencing the gasket between the carb & intake, then yes, that can certainly cause a lean running condition too. The engine will basically be sucking air in around the back side of the carb & intake and leaning out the fuel to air mixture. An easy way to tell if there is an air leak on the back side of the carb is to spray some throttle body or carb cleaner around where the carb mounts to the intake. If you notice the RPM change while doing that, you know there is a leak.

@@Rchelicopterfun Ok, I'm actually missing two gaskets! One where the bowl meets the carb and the other where the carb mounts to the intake. I'll spray like you said, but will be adding the gaskets regardless. The machine runs great, but only on full choke. As soon as I drop the choke, it starts to surge. My thought is that there is just too much air coming in through the lack of gaskets and is causing the surging. Thank you!

@@Rchelicopterfun Hey John, just wanted to provide a quick update. I ended up swapping out the gasket between the carb and the intake, as well as adding a new bowl gasket. Additionally, I cleaned out the red pin for the low idle, just in case. At my next start, the the engine was slightly better, but still surging. I also changed the spark plug for good measure. However, now I'm noticing that my snowblower dies after 2-5 minutes of operation. Any ideas what could be happening? Should I just replace the carb altogether? I've been reading online that there's been some trouble with surging on Ariens Deluxe 28's that have the LCT. Curious for your thoughts on potential next steps. Thanks!

Yep 👍

Whats that under red cap

@@jerrywhalen2100 The low speed jet.

Yep, I did that as well, it totally fixed the surging.

Yep, it's mentioned in the very first pinned comment. However they are all different. Mine is built into the hose bib that exits the tank and the only way to remove it for cleaning is to remove the tank & unscrew the bib. Lucky yours just pull out from inside the tank 🙃

Hi Gordon, sorry I missed your question here from a few days back. No, I never did put an inline filter in. Even the small one looked like it might not fit under the cover after looking at it more. I'm sure some smaller diameter ones would work however.

@Michael Holly - well, this video and carb clean was to cure a lean running condition (dirt in main jet). If you have a blower that is running too rich, then it's going to be something else. Rich running could be caused by a loose main metering jet (sucking fuel past the jet) or oversized jet. Blocked air filters cause rich running, but blowers don't have air cleaners, however, maybe something else is partially blocking the air intake? I've found mouse & bug nests in several over the years. If you've cleaned the carb however, then you would have found that. Incomplete ignition would be another possibility. Never hurts to change the spark plug unless you've already tried that.

@@Rchelicopterfun the unit is almost new, used once, left gas in it. I drained the gas and added new. I think too my problem was adding a can of sea foam 🙃 trying to get it to idle correctly. I then cleaned carb after, put fresh gas and noticed gas Oder in the oil. Just changed the oil yesterday, cleaned carb again and runs slightly better but still sputters occasionally, I’m hoping I didn’t ruin the carb with seafoam/mechanic in a bottle. Next will be the spark plug for sure. I have found when the fuel shut off is partly closed it runs perfect, but then sputters when engaging the auger. Once spring comes I’ll test back apart and get a carb rebuke kit and spark plug.

Yep, that makes sense. 👍

@@Rchelicopterfun Sorry, I'm an electrician. lol This was a good, informative video all the same

@Brent Wright - not sure what my excuse is then as I have an automotive & electronics background. Brain fart I suppose where my mouth was flapping faster than processor - a common occurrence according to the wife.

@@Rchelicopterfun You're not alone brother... lol

😄👍

I would empty the tank and put fresh gas in. That to me would be the first thing to try as it might be all that's required to get it running properly. Running with the choke on is not ideal because power will be down and depending on how much/how heavy the snow is, could bog down the engine excessively.

@John Booker - it never hurts to change the plug (especially if it has been a while since it was last changed) as a faulty plug can certainly cause strange running issues. It's also an easy & inexpensive thing to try. My guess is the plug is not the issue, but again, if it's older and has never been changed - may as well start there. A clogged filter will certainly cause this as well so that's something to check. If your blower is like mine, there is no external fuel filter, but there is a fine mesh screen filter inside the fuel tank (it's part of the fuel line output nipple on the bottom of the tank). That thing can easily get clogged and cause lean running. A leaking gasket where the carb attaches to the intake is another common thing will also cause lean running. I don't know of any other jet/screw to clean other than the float metering valve and the main jet. I'm by no means an expert on these specific carbs however; I just know the basics. Good luck.

@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the reply! I kept digging and there is an idle/low speed jet on my carb, on top. There is a black plastic retaining screw that holds in a red plug with a small jet. Cleaning that out helped a lot! It looks like you can see it on your carb at 10:25. Thanks for the video and the reply! KZfaq at its finest! ♥️

@John Booker - thanks for that good info. Will have to make a note of that in my owners manual as another thing to check 🙂

Yes, you can certainly remove it from underneath by just unscrewing the center bowl bolt. You likely won't even have to remove the metal cowling to gain access. Thing is, it's more difficult to see what is going on when working on it in that orientation. If/when I have to do this again, that is what I will try first. But until I do, I can tell you just how much of a pain (or easier) it will be. Perhaps others who have done it this way will be kind enough to comment. Removing the bowl will be the easy part. Getting the float and needle out, cleaning everything, and fitting it all back in place correctly while still attached to the machine & working upside down or at best sideways, may be turn out to be trickier than pulling the carb off in the first place? I guess if it turns out to be a real hassle trying to get it all back in place, one could always remove the carb at that stage to clean it and refit the needle, float, and bowl.

It doesn’t appear as though you need to remove the float- just the bowl, jet and emulsion tube. Why do you need to remove the float?

Why? To remove the float needle for inspection/cleaning. You very well may not have to do that of course, but I'm of the opinion if you are in there and gone to this much trouble already, checking the float needle and cleaning out that port as well is worth the extra time. There could have been crud in there just as likely as up in the jet hole after all.

I had the same surging issue. There's another video discussing this same issue on the same LCT 208 engine. The presenter did the whole carb take off and clean process and in the end it still surged. He removed the red plastic jet assembly under the idle adjustment screw, cleaned it up. I did the same and didn't have to do all the disassembly. I used a bristle I cut off a wire brush to clean the orifices and it solved the issue. I also flushed out the carb, tank and lines. Apparently, according to a tech I spoke to, using unleaded gasoline is a no-no on these engines. He highly recommended zero alcohol content gas (premium). Apparently the alcohol in the gasoline causes the lines to deteriorate. He also recommended to not use Stabil during the off season (which I had used). There were some black particles in the tank and my machine had been used very little and I'm always careful when fueling. So who knows where that came from. Anyway, it runs perfectly now. I'll drain ALL the gas at the end of the season.

@@ravenfeather7087 Do you have a link to that video, I also still have the surging after cleaning the carb but not that slow idle jet Thanks!

Yep. Found that out later in the season when it started acting up again below 1/4 tank. Stuck the good old borescope probe in and noticed that tiny screen was plugged solid half way up with black paint particulates (presumably from when the tank was sprayed) and the filter/bib assemble threaded into the hole. Those black particles were also likely what were getting into the carb and blocking the jet as I found more in the carb bowl after cleaning the filter. Had to remove the tank, and unthread the screen bib to clean it as you mentioned - such fun.

@@Rchelicopterfun I might have to do that, Will empty gas, remove tank, flush rinse using garden hose, rinse using alcohol then let dry before to reassemble.

Also, enlarge the throtle jet (rep plastic screw) to 1/64" using a drill bit so it won't run lean.

Shouldn't be. Since it's running lean and being starved for fuel, should be no raw fuel left in the cylinder to seep into the crankcase.

With running issues like this, you generally start with the easy stuff and progress along in a process of elimination to more involved but less likely possibilities. The most common running issue after sitting in storage is bad fuel - especially fuel with ethanol in it. So if you have not got fresh fuel in it, that's the very first thing to try. Also double check the oil level. Many of these engines have a low oil level sensor that grounds out the ignition if the level is getting low. If the oil level is just at the point where the sensor is intermittently grounding out the ignition, it can cause all sorts of funny running issues. Generally the next easy item to eliminate is the spark plug. Change it even if it looks fine. Misfires and surging go hand in hand since a misfire will often then manifest as governor surging. Not sure what "cable" you are talking about? Perhaps you mean linkage rod/push rod? If so, the long pushrod with that spring goes to the governor. The governor is what ultimately controls the carburetor throttle/butterfly plate and thus the engine speed. That little spring on the rod wouldn't cause the engine to not run. It only takes up slack in the linkage to help prevent fluttering of the butterfly valve which can produce slight engine surging if there is a fair amount of slop in the governor linkage rod. If you close the choke, does the running issue get any better? If it gets better, then you likely have a lean running issue like I had and need to clean the carb. All ports of the carb, not just the main jet & emulsion tube. There is one I didn't do in the video but others have mentioned it in the comments. It's the one under the red plug on the carb. Your blower may also have an internal fuel filter in the gas tank (mine actual did so I never bothered installing an external filter). Anyway, that little fine mesh filter can get clogged full of gunk while sitting in storage. Most of those in-tank fuel filters are threaded in from the bottom of the fuel tank where the fuel line attaches. If closing the choke however has no affect, then it's likely not running lean and is something else like bad fuel, low oil, or bad spark plug.

​@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you for the reply. After i typed that message to you i went back and tore it all apart again and cleaned the jets and that emulsion tube inside the bowl. It's purring like a kitten now. My snow blower isn't the same brand as yours but it looks close. It's a Yard Machine with a a Briggs and Stratton motor. It's only a year old. Looks brand new. The wire i was talking about is a separate one that is attached to a spring and runs parallel to the linkage rod. The end of it is shaped like a hook and goes into a hole in the same piece that the linkage rod attaches. I think i've heard someone say it's a safety spring in case the linkage rod comes off you don't blow the motor. So i probably just answered my own question. I just didn't know if it served another purpose also. But it's running great now thanks to your video showing me how to take the float apart and clean it out. That was it. Thanks again!

@Thomas Andrews Thanks

I always support our local power equipment & rental store when I can: www.alpinecountryrentals.com/ They almost always have better parts prices than the online sources such as Amazon or Ebay, and I can get the part/s immediately or within 3-4 days tops if they have to order it in from the city. Of course, that's in my small town. If you don't have a good power equipment shop in your area, Google search is your friend.

Yep, as per the first pinned comment 🙂

@@Rchelicopterfun Didn't see first comment. i travel fast and light through you tube on weekends. No time to read every response. lol

Have you checked to see if there is an inline filter in the outlet from the fuel tank as per the first pinned comment? Many of these newer blowers have a tiny screen filter in the fuel tank hose bib that can easily get clogged and there is no way to inspect it other than remove the tank and pull out the hose bib to access the filter for cleaning. Mine had one and it was plugged half way with what looked to be overspray paint particles from inside the fuel tank. I think it was some of those tiny paint particles that got by that filter that clogged the main jet in this carb clean.

Two reasons: First, I didn't know what the issue was so decided to take it all apart to get a clear view of the entire layout. May have been something as simple as a blocked inline filter or pinched fuel hose for example (of course that was not the case) but now we know. Second, taking it completely off really was the only option for doing a video to clearly show the carb and internal components within the bowl including the float needle. Plus, for those that do need to remove the carb; this might help give them a little more information on the scope of the process. Yes, in hindsight, and hopefully what people will get out of this is you can just take the bowl off from under the cowling to service the jet (assuming of course a clogged jet is the issue).

@@Rchelicopterfun I found dirt through out the carb, ... so removing it & doing through cleaning was a good thing. Very helpful video. Likely saved me $100 by DIY, rather than taking it to a small engine repair shop. Thanks again.

Him taking off the cover was the best thing bc most guys start these stuff without viewers seeing clearly how the butterfly carburetor works while the machine is actually running.

It won't hurt anything, but power will be down. You are basically restricting some air into the engine when doing that to cure the lean running condition.

@@Rchelicopterfun ahh, I get it, someone told me that Briggs had issues with the Nikki Carbs, and the walbro replacement was the way to go, could it be a carb issue, or just that my carb is dirty?

Always start with easy stuff. If it runs better with some choke but it used to run fine before, it's running lean and the most common reason after bad fuel or a dirty fuel filter would be a dirty/contaminated carb, but there are other possible reasons as well. I of course don't know if your carb is dirty or if it's something else. That's why we have to open them up to inspect them - it's part of the diagnostic process. If it's just dirty like this one was, the repair won't cost you a dime other than some time. If however you'd rather just throw a new costly part at it in hopes that might fix it without any diagnostic investigation, it's your $.

@@Rchelicopterfun cleaning and check it is!

Yep, a few others have made mention of that. Next time it starts running rough I'll be sure to check that one as well. Thanks for the information.

Looking at the glass over half full, us DIY'ers who enjoy tinkering on stuff are in a wonderful position today to save massive amounts of coin. I know I sure have. Never has there been as much free and helpful information available to us within seconds showing us all exactly how to service our our own equipment, learn a good deal in the process, and get that good feeling of accomplishment. From very simple stuff like this, right up to much more complex servicing on everything from a little snow blower to a Ferrari engine. This is a wonderful time in history for the average DIY'er & Renaissance man.

John Salt well, I can’t argue with that 👍

You do it your way, I'll do it mine.