Glad it was helpful!

yes, and it eventually deteriorates , but easy to replace the washer

Thanks for watching!

You're welcome!

check out the water level, there is usually a " water level line " on the inside of the cistern, at the back, easy to see, if the water level is higher than it should be the water will continue to be siphoned out of the cistern,. or if some one has put the wrong height siphon in, that would cause a problem, continuing to siphon the water out. measure from the " water line " to the bottom of the cistern,and add an 25-32mm, to the spill point to determine the size of a flush siphon should be.

We have a solution! Give us a call: 855.329.4519 or click here: www.rcworst.com/jobe-topaz-j-tpv20dlt-3/4-npt-w/detached-base-long-tail-float-valve.html

Yes, if the ball is waterlogged it will not float up and shut off the flow.

@@RCworstwater no it’s not water logged and where the ball threads into the arm never gets close to the water level.

@@scottbolden2961 the air pressure inside the ball won't matter. Just make sure water isn't filling into the ball. Otherwise the ball can't float. It needs to be sealed from water. Water vapor could condensate into the ball of it is cracked. Shake it to see if it contains water (bad).

the ball valve float has to be air tight, or water will get in to it, and then it will not be able to float properly, the lever arm between the ball float , and the valve, does not enter the float, just attaches it to the female threaded attachment on the float, the reason that the water keeps creeping in, is ether the water pressure is too high, or the aperture on the " seating " is too big on the internal orifice, or the ball valve washer has deteriorated, which happens to them all eventually.they are easy to replace. the ball float is not really under pressure, ( unless it is a long way down, which will not happen) it just happens to be lighter than water, so floats, in doing so, it operates the lever arm, to stop the water entering the tank / cold water storage cistern / toilet cistern, the bigger the diameter of the water supply to the ball valve, the longer the lever arm needs to be, but there are better float valves, " equilibrium " float valves, which let more water volume through, and use the water pressure to make it close the water off, by using the water pressure to enter the other end of the sealed valve, so that the water pressure is equal, so it is not under pressure at all that's why it is named an equilibrium " float valve, you can get them for toilet cisterns, cold water storage cistern, etc 1/2 " - 4" diameter water supply pipes, they hjave been around for over 50 years, I was a plumber in hospitals, we had cold water storage tanks bigger than swimming pools with 4" diameter float / ball valves, this was back in the early 70's. or you can we can " delayed action float valves " which fill the tanks etc in minutes on full bore, then close off in seconds, look at "Ebco " equilibrium float ball valves, or keraflo delayed action float valve, you will have similar ones made in you country. try this on youtube " Keraflo Ltd " but you can also, get domestic equilibrium versions, best to get them, with brass tails, then you won't cross thread them easily, which happens on the plastic tailed options. I must not forget that if your wate supplyr is " hard " then lime scale will effect the ball float valves

The pressure in the pipe is what we're referring to.

Check the valve. Maybe there's a part inside where the water is not being blocked by that mini steel at 2:45 part of the video

Yes, please give us a call for help sizing: 855.329.4519

See here: www.rcworst.com/jobe-valves.html

re watch the video then dumbass

maybe they should show us why they do not not work, these can be solved by people, who know these inside out, I have been a registered plumber since 1972, I know a bit. it would have made more sense to show them working rather than been dead.