I'm grateful for the help. These kind of videos never go "viral", but they are the only thing keeping KZfaq remotely useful. Thank you.

It’s 2024 and I’m a contractor/homeowner. This video was very simple, easy to understand, and gave all the relevant information in a well constructed manner. I’ll be turning to your channel for answers first from now on. Much appreciated.

If you want the Worst service don't watch this video because this guy is the Best!

This dude is the best, nothing funny, fancy or intriguing, just knowledge for those of us who need it. Love it!

Thanks for making this video! I installed a large accumulator in my motorhome last year to keep the pump from cycling all the time. I set the pressure, but did not realize that the tank should be empty first! This turned out to be a game-changer because I had it at 36 PSI when full and when it was empty it read 4 PSI - so, wrong, wrong, and wrong. It's now set correctly. Without this video, I would never have known. Thanks very much!

Finally ! To the point and easy to follow. Thanks ! My well pump was cycling on and off very quickly. Turns out the pressure in my pressure tank was almost zero. (Apparently being in a basement with huge temperature swings can cause this?) I added the correct air pressure, and all is working properly now. Thanks again !! Was afraid I needed a new pressure tank.

Thank you for the help! The short cycling was due to low bladder pressure. Turning off the well breaker and draining water with a faucet allowed me to get a good pressure reading. Added the air to raise the psi to the proper level has worked!!!

Thank you! A great video: clear, succinct, logical and structured. I have been able to fix my house water pump system and all is well again. Saved me the usual "rip out and replace" solution, so something good has been done as well for sustainability and avoiding more landfill. Super! I am grateful.

This is the most clear procedure and required pressure I've been able to find on the web. Well done R.C. Worst!

This guy is awesome ! extremely well explained! There are many people that are great at their jobs but there aren't many that have the ability to teach it. This guys definitely has that gift. Thanks for the vid

Thank you. Just replace the pressure gauge and checked the pressure in the tank. It was 11 psi. Added air to 38 psi for our 40/60 gauge and it worked. Thank you so very much!

Thank you so look much!!! That was such a quick, easy fix to our ongoing issue. We were told we needed a new tank. The pressure was at about 54 psi, brought it down to 38 and now everything is running better than ever!! Thank you again!

This is how a "How to Vid" is ment to be. Proper and well explained, easy to follow info. Thank You

Thank you, after replacing my pressure gauge it was cutting off at 60 psi and I thought it was wrong. My old one was going to 45 and leaking. I assumed it was wrong then realized the old gauge was just bad. I am a do-it-yourself and have no real knowledge of plumbing. I appreciate you-tubers that post this information. Saved me tons of money.

We just bought our house and I have been having pressure issues and luckily I found your channel. Thanks to this very informative video I was able to quickly identify that we have a 30/50 psi switch. I verified that it was still set to 30/50, drained the tank and found that it was at 48 psi!! It's now set at 28 psi, the water level in the tank has more than doubled (based on the outside condensation level on the tank) and the pressure has been much more consistent. Thanks again and I will be checking out more of your videos.

Great video, best one I’ve seen so far, and so far I have watched about a dozen or more. There was no extra added BS of useless info, just straight to the point. I can’t express enough how that sidebar graphic helped. I’m a visual person and it really put it into perspective how the range of both of the adjustments work and the result of adjusting them in relation to each other. It was a very nice touch that made all the difference for me. Now I feel that I completely know how this unit works. My intended use for this unit is to incorporate it inline with my Aquaponic system, Koi ponds and swimming pool. I will be using this unit to help keep pressure to a garden hose for watering plants around the yard (with the help of an 1/2hp 1500gph external water transfer pump) with the water source coming from either the Swimming pool, Koi ponds or Aquaponic system. I’m hoping to be able to continuously have adequate pressure (40 to 60psi) down the line of the hose and yet have the pump turn off whenever the garden nozzle is temporarily of shut off. It’ll make having to carry 5 gallon buckets around the property a thing of the past hopefully. Thanks again.

As somebody who has been commissioning commercial systems for years, your recommendations and your numbers are spot-on. Too many people don't drain the water pressure off the tank before filling the air side. That is critical to proper operation. On a side note, the older tanks didn't have a bladder and over a period of time, the air that's in the tank is assimilated into the water and requires repressurization. The techniques for setting pressure on these tanks is a little different. I like to have the switch kick in I got about a 1/3 tank level and shut off no more than a 2/3 full tank level. This can be determined by the sweat on the outside of the tank, or by rapping on the side to determine the level. The same technique works on compression tanks with sight glasses. Heating system 1/3 full when cold. Cooling systems two-thirds full when warm. Once again tank completely empty before filling. Most commercial compression tanks don't provide a Schrader valve for adjusting air pressure. It would be nice if they did because over time, not only does the water assimilate the air but the air tends to leak out the rubbers on the sight glass. Thank you for an informative and correct method of determining the proper pressures.

This was a “well” done how-to video. I’m so pumped to get my system working. Tank you very much! Edit: Sorry couldn’t resist.

I've no idea how many months my pump has been short cycling and the potential damage that's been done to it. How often is anyone in the basement while the water is being used upstairs! Anyway...when I did notice it finally, I checked the tank pressure but had not turned off the pump or drained it...and as I now know, that was incorrect. I also incorrectly concluded that the bladder had blown out and was in process of pricing out parts and pcs to replace. Saw this video in my search for knowledge....shut down the pump and drained the tank...pressure was at 5lbs !!! Pumped it back up as per this vid and presto ...no more short cycling ! Had no idea that the air pressure required yearly maintenance !! Thanks Guys ...saved me a bundle of pain and suffering !

Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com

Thanks my friend ..you're a good man helping out those who really need it

You guys are the BEST at explaining everything well, pump, pressure switch & anything related to a well for us novice diyers to understand. Keep up the great work!

Thank you. My irrigation system is 40 years old and she still works but needed some tweaking. Your video did it. Much appreciated.

I'm so glad they're are videos like yours it helped me and my family a lot.... Thank you for taking the time to do this.... God bless you and your house......

Finally a useful and comprehensive video. Answered many questions I had before testing my tank. Thanks guys.

Unless they quit selling them,or ordering, you don't throw your tank away,easy repair,empty and take tank out, turn upside down, take all nuts off, take out bladder, put in new one, install and set pressure, I keep one on hand, have had a well for 50 years. , Roll up bladder like a newspaper,easy to replace.

Thank you so much for your help. We live in a rural area and finding service help is difficult. I procrastinated on resolving our water pressure becuase of a red tag reading "do not touch, call the installer." I would not have emptied the tank to measure this. You fixed out water pressure and we appreciate the help.

Pressure started surging, gauge up and down...plumbers replaced switch, still doing it. Then I found this video after looking more into tanks at lowes & HD, and after thinking it's the switch and all. So, this video and all the specs and info on pre-pressurized, air pressure...I had no idea. But, now I do. With the info in this video, I checked the air pressure in the tank, and the tank/switch is set for 30-50 psi. The pressure in the tank was at LEAST 60 psi. Wow. No wonder it wasn't working right. I backed the pressure to 28, and now it's working right again. How the pressure got that high, or how long it was like that...let's just say the builder, from top to bottom, didn't do things right. I've had to learn to fix a lot of things, also, due to lackof good help in this area. So, thank YOU very much for this video, and it helped me troubleshoot and fix what could have cost a lot more than a new switch, which was, in fact, probably needed.

Thank you for explaining this so well! As a pump serviceman I always explained everything that you have shown! Many people inadvertently checked the pressure in the accumulator when the pump had pumped up to cut out pressure which is wrong! More often than not I would always remove the tank from the pumping system to get a correct pressure in the accumulator! On the smaller accumulators sometimes the diaphragm had inverted itself & in that case it could be reverted back to it’s original position with the aide of something small like a large strong stick the could be placed in the inlet side being the (bottom of the tank) saving the customer buying a new accumulator! Or in some instances connecting air pressure & blowing the diaphragm backwards but in doing that the Schrader valve needed to be removed to allow the air to be discharged from the top side of the tank! Nine times out of ten the water wouldn’t drain out of the tank in your suggestion because it takes so much pressure to push out that remaining water from the system! But the drain tap at the base of the intake sounds like a much better option for the novice home handyman!

Just some facts from an old guy. The air valve on top of the tank is called a "schrader valve"

I just happened across your video because I also have a tank and pressure system set up just like yours but what I didn’t know was that my tank needed to be 2 pounds lower than my current Cut on pressure and that was very helpful and useful to know.

Search the entire web try to find a video like this that explains it like this straightforward unbelievable. Thanks for the awesome video

Thanks for answering all these questions that people post. I've been watching videos for weeks now and haven't seen this issue. The sad part is I've been a city slicker for 40+ years and never had to deal with these problems. Now I've been out in the country for 8 years and probably should have checked into this sooner.When the house inspector went thru he pointed at the pressure gauge and said " 40 lbs. that's a good pressure to be at. A couple of months ago we noticed the pressure dropped. After checking the gauge it was @ 35 lbs. I started to investigate this on You Tube only to find that the gauge is actually suppose to go up & down within 20 psi. Ours never does. We also never hear the switch clicking, but in the shower you can tell the pressure going up & down.Also looking at the pressure tank which is a Red Lion RL202(discontinued) don't know if this is a diaphram tank or bladder. Looking @ Water Worker tanks.They recommend 62 gallon tank instead of the current 20 gallon one I have. I'm thinking that I'm probably better just to replace all them parts and know that everything is up to snuff. Is this the best solution? Thanks for your time & would appreciate opinion.

Great Help. My problem was the pressure in the tank. I was down to zero with the 5 gallon tank empty of water and the power off. Since I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I put air in the tank to 28 and problem solved for now. My sprinklers are working just fine and the motor is not turning off and on. I will watch to see if my tank pressure drops in the future.

New to off grid homesteading. I have a different pump, but obviously, this video is extremely helpful. Thank you

I am on a well and really appreciate knowing this and how to check the pressure. 🙂

What are the symptoms of having the pressure in your tank too high or too low. e.g. on a 40-60 tank, what are the systems if your pressure was only 32, or if your pressure was 45? This would be useful to know so if we see that symptom, we know to check the pressure (vs it being something completely different)

Such a helpful video! I appreciate you getting right to the point. First-time well owner, and immediately found problems: switch settings were 30-50, pressure tank was down to 15 and adjusting that to 28 solved it! Hypothetical question out of pure curiosity - what if your pressure tank was inflated to a higher psi than 2 minus the cut-in psi? For example if the tank was inflated to 38 whereas your switch settings were 30-50? My guess is the pump would never turn on? Thanks again!

Excellent video. I own a property maintenance company and often need to be the one with the knowledge. Thank you.

Thank You ! My pump was cycling on way too much. The first thing I did after shutting of the pump and draining the tank was replace the pressure guage as it seemed to be not reading correctly. No sloshing around when I shook the tank so I checked the pressure of the diaphram - around 30 psi. I pumped it up to 38 lbs. and turned the pump back on. A slight adjustment on the pressure control switch got it back to turning on at 40 psi and off at 60. It is working great again and not turning on and off every time I use a little water. It is not only good to have it fixed, it is good to understand and to get to know the system better. Thanks for your short and concise video. It was an easy fix with your help.

Thanks for the info! Very helpful, straight forward, and easy to understand!!

Awesome video, super clear and told me exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

I have a pressure tank connected to jet pump and you taught my what its for and what to do.

hey, just a quick thank you. I have one of these and my father installed it. We were able to get through the steps easily to figure out what my issue was and it's all set... Kris :)

I noticed my valve stem was leaking. I changed the stem and then set the air pressure and it's working fine now. Thanks.

Very helpful Thanks, you saved me a service call.

Thanks for the basic knowledge for my annual pump system check up and maintenance. I forgot the details. No need to commit it to memory, we have RC worst to rely on‼️ 👍

Thanks for the video. You said to check under the cap of the water pressure switch for cut in pressure number. People need to know about the electricity under the plastic cap of the water pressure switch. If the power is on, it's dangerous.

Great job on the explanation, thumbs up.

Great video, but you should have mentioned that the ambient temperature of the tank affects the air pressure inside it. So, if it is in area that sees a large variation of temperature between say, Summer and Winter, then the tank pressure would need to be checked regularly as the pressure is going to go up in the warmer months and down in the cooler months. this very well could affect your cut in in the warmer months if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.

Well pumps are somewhat new to me. The "well T" you show in the video is installed above the tank itself, and a line runs from it to the bottom of the tank. So if I use the setup I have it doesn't seem like I will drain the tank, it seems like the line from the bottom of the tank running to the well T will not let the tank drain, but I am not well versed in well pump operations. So a little more detail would be appreciated. This video is very easy to watch, and explains much, which is the way I need to start out learning something new.

This vid was great. At least I know how to check the status of my tank. Hopefully it's just adding more pressure.

Thank you well information due to diaphragm expansion vessel.

Thank you thank you thank you. We have been living with the tank clicking for so long now even when we flushed the tolit it would click about 10 times. We have never had a well before

Very professional guy with great explanations. This is my first time owning and maintaining a pressure tank at home.

Excellent video all the way around! Thank you! Checking my tanks today :)

Very informative, good training video.

I can't thank you enough!! What a difference once everything was set up correctly! Thanks again! J

Hey Chris I'm a plumber. Just found your videos and I'm glad I did. I'm just now getting into the service side of things and its midnight now and I'm still watching lol.

Great explanation on how to adjust pressure ! TANK YOU

Great vid told me just what I needed to thanks.

My system was working, but the pressure would drop to zero before the pump cut in. I tried adjusting the air pressure in the tank, but no matter what I did, nothing worked. After running the pump up and down about a dozen times for testing, the pressure suddenly went through my top setting of 50psi and was heading past 65psi before I could flip the CB. I took the pressure switch off and found the inlet was blocked with rust and other slimy stuff. I carefully took the adapter off the pressure sensor and cleaned everything. I readjusted the tank pressure to 28psi (two pounds below switch cut in) and when I turned the pump back on, huzzah, it worked just as it was supposed to.

Thought I'd pass this on. If the valve stem core needle gets loose...you will gradually lose air pressure over time. Resulting in a pressure switch that may cycle on/off erratically. With a simple valve core tool, tighten up the needle or even clean it if necessary. Being that my pressure tank is 43 years old, I came very close to having it replaced when a simple service to the valve core solved the problem.

this is great thanks, my tank is a 20/40, I sure hope it's adjustable, because I'm about to add a lot of pre-filters . I've got more than a few videos queue'd up, here's hoping I learn everything I need, and I don't need everything I learn :)

Great explanation sir !

Thank you sir 👍👍 I had adjusted my pressure tank about 18 months ago and wanted to be sure I was doing it right . The first time I messed with it I had it all screwed up then somebody told me the proper way but I just couldn't remember all the details for sure. Cheers friend 😎 and I did subscribe and hit the bell 🚬

This is very useful for those who has well at their house and only for HANDYMEN......Thank you for sharing

Excellent instructional video! Thank you R.C. Worst & Co.!!!

GREAT information thanks.

Great information.

Thanks for a very clear lesson. Done a few of these but it always is years apart and I need to learn it all again.

Best video I have seen on this topic! Thank you for creating this content.

Thank you so much. You solved my problem on an issue i had no clue about. Awesome!!

A clogged 1/4" tube to the pressure sw. will cause erratic pressure & pump function

why there is not one built in pressure gauge on top of the blue tank?

Great explanation! You're awesome. Thank you!

Hi, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to do them. I have a question. What symptoms are there if your air pressure is set to high? Say it's set at 28 lbs when it should be set at 18 lbs for a 20 pound cut in. Thank you

Thanks for the explanation - super clear! Quick question - when adjusting cut in/out pressures is it better to set your tank bladder pressure first (ie. 38psi for a 40/60 setting) or set your switch first, then the tank, or does it matter? thanks

Thanks for the tutorial used it on my pressure tank it had like 20 psi in it

Nice job with the video. Short, sweet, to the point.

Dude you rock!!

I'm confused. You say to open a faucet anywhere in the house. I did that and the system drained empty. Then I opened the faucet on the tank tee assembly. The water drained out relatively slowly, with lots of glubs as air entered in to replace the water coming out from the tank. Was it unnecessary to empty the tank, or can you get by with just zero pressure reading from the rest of the household plumbing? Also how accurate must the tire gauge be? What if it's off by one or 2 psi, or 3 or 4?

Thanks for the exhaustive video, this is what I needed and everyone wants

Very helpful video. Great job guys!

Do you increase air pressure i.e. add air, bringing it to 38 psi when the tank is empty or full of water?

Why does my pressure tank lose air pressure every several years? Tank is 10 years old. 20 gallon.

WOW, Awesome. Clear, concise, useful information, efficiently presented. Thanks.

Thank you for the helpful information. Much appreciated.

Call r.c worst. What's the worst that can happen ?

Thanks for posting. I fixed my problem and you saved me a maintenance call and money!

Great videos on the pressure tank and switch thank you ! I will be taking some of this new knowledge to the cottage system

Thank you for the video , just helped me alot .

Perfect. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting.

Great and well made video. Very helpful,thank you!

Man thank you for the pressure!

Thank you for explaining this, so if I am checking an existing pressure do I need to drain it as well? Or can I just turn off the power, and empty the system and opening a faucet?

Good explanation

I normally deal with ag wells and accompanying equipment but I was unfamiliar with how a newer pressure tank works. Thanks for the update. I have low pressure and looking yesterday a broken line. Just moved in to the house. And was unclear on the diaphragm operation

Short, concise, well presented, thank you.

Thanks, very informative !