Very good video, very well explained, good cameras views and all the details like the size of the bolts and the torque settings. Thank you.

Me ha gustado mucho tu video, compañero. Todo muy bien explicado y de manera tranquila, paso a paso y realizando operaciones de manera sencilla. Es muy importante cuidar de nuestras máquinas y, el tren trasero con todos los sistemas que lleva aparejado en los monobrazos de Honda, más aún. Muchas gracias, he aprendido mucho de ti, estaba buscando esta información para mi RC36 y por fin la he encontrado. ¡Enhorabuena!

One of the best looking Honda ever.

Awesome, more VFR750 service videos please !

Good clear video, thank you. One warning, I replaced my rear brake disc on my VFR750. About 5000 miles later the 4 rear disc mounting bolts loosened, nuts fell off and disc came loose. When reassembling I hadn't used a nut locking compound on the bolts. I was lucky the rear wheel didnt lock up at speed. The bike rescue service guy who picked me up said it wasn't the first such failure he had seen. If you haven't used locknut compound on your bolts I would strongly recommend double checking the bolt tightness as part of your service schedule. Great bike!

Well done, precise, accurate, very clear. Great video!!

Enjoyed, but really hould have cleaned the pistons before pushing them back into the caliper

Top job, chap - just got hold of a '94! 👌🏻

Excellent video. I will save this for when I need to do the same on my 95 VFR. Looking forward to the front brakes equivalent.

Thanks for you video. It is helpful. But you can safe time on the disassembly of the rear fearing. You dont have to take out all bulbs. You can simply just unplug the cable connector on the left side of the fearing and leave the fearing facing cables in it.

Well done mate, clear, concise, accurate advice. Happy riding!👍

An excellent video that should also help me with my NT 650 Hawk. Thanks!

Great video, I was really struggling to get the axel nut loose but the technique you show in the video worked really well. 👍🏻😉

Thank you for the detailed and easy to follow vid!

Really nicely made video!

excellent very clear instruction job well done.

Awesome job! About to do this on my VFR

Well done, good info. !

Soooo perfect thanks!!

Very good and clear video! I did this job myself. I hope you are going to make more vids of these because it will help many people! Keep it up 💪👍😁

Really helpful 👍

Hi thank you for a grate video .clean and clear . I just got first 1989 vfr jh2 rc 36 .and will be watching you . Thank one more old English guy .but believe it or not I have not had a vfr before ? 750 cbr hurricane .

I'm about to do this to my '93. The two bikes are similar enough that this will be very useful. My eccentric hub is feeling a little gritty so I'll tackle that at the same time. Unbelievable how much can get in there! Subbed, too! When's the front brake and other vids coming?

many thanks for making that, I need to change the rotor on mine and the Haynes manual made it look very difficult. I get it now thanks to you.

I really appreciate the effort you put into this video , but _please_ don't instruct people to put grease in the caliper pins. _Never_ put grease in caliper pins, in ANY motorcycle. BTW the RC36 service manual does not state that (I checked, just in case you were misinformed by a misprint)! Silicone grease is for the _BRACKET_ pins, or "slider" pins, which do not come into contact with brake pads, silicone grease is required on those pins due to the fact that they slide in rubber boots and petroleum based grease degrades them. Also, for your own safety, please don't only change bolts on high stress applications like that, you need to check that the bolt has the same strength grade before making the switch.

Do you have a video on how to remove the rear fender ?

OMG!!! another vid showing how not to flush a brake system ... no need whatsoever to remove a bleed nipple & allow corrosive Dot 4 to flow all over a painted caliper, why did u not do it correctly & fit a bleed pipe to nipple?

You made two mistakes on this job. Firstly, clean the pistons before pushing them back into the caliper, and secondly, you don't need to completely unscrew the bleed screw. You just loosen it, and that's enough to drain the brake fluid.

what make is the rear rack you have fitted?