Excellent video with superb photography. Good idea to use the tear out preventing block at the end of the piece.

This was a wonderful video. Succinct and to the point.

Very informative demo, clearly captured and edited, well done mate, thanks

Thanks for getting me straightened out on that spur.

Great instructional on the Stanley No 45. Thank you!

Great demonstration Mitch, thanks for sharing it.

Very useful video. Extremely well presented. Thanks

I have had a Record 405 for many years, preferring to use it instead of a router. I worked as a Cabinetmaker for 20 odd years, and now only make for myself and immediate family. In industry I would never have been allowed to use one of these, as speed is of the essence, the electric router and spindle moulder being the tool/machine of choice, but where is the fun in that! One thing I have noticed is you take what I consider to be very heavy cuts. I prefer to take more and lighter passes. I find it gives a better finish, and the blades stay sharp longer. I always use a Veritas honing guide to ensure a perfect bevel, diamond stones to start, and always polishing with an Arkansas Translucent, a surgical polished edge on these cutters really helps, that is half the battle. Another thing I have found useful is the use of pure beeswax (solid) rubbed on the skates and side fence. That really helps cut down the amount of effort needed. Please don’t take my critique the wrong way though, it’s just the way I like to work. One thing I have just discovered is the Stanley 55, with its greater range of cutters for producing mouldings. And I have just purchased a few hollow and round special bases for the 405, which enable you to use the tool as a moulding plane, although I have yet to try them out. I intend to try my hand at making some crown mouldings for a wall cabinet I want to make for my Wife so she can display her Murano glass animals. Great video, and it’s good to see someone else using one. There is lots to learn about them, and I am always looking for more info from other Makers on how to use tools like this. Thanks.

Thanks for this, I have a 78-esque rebate plane myself (Record 778), and use of the spur was unclear to me. When I bought my plane, all of the three prongs were unsharpened, so I sharpened one of them. But these stick out quite a bit (as does yours). In my case, it prevented the plane from cutting. Up until now, I just made a saw cut on the side of the rebate (cross grain only, with the grain is fine without spur or saw cut), before removing the waste with the plane. I'll give your method a try (but I'll make sure the spur is razor sharp first)!

Yeah, good video. Look forward to more with the 45.

Well done! Ditto my dado comments, faster strokes starting with short strokes at the far end and progressively lengthening them back toward you will yield great rewards. Again, I don't mess with the depth of cut after I'm getting a decent shaving and I leave the spurs alone(mine are shorter on one leg) Give it a try and let me know what you think.

Nicely explained..Thank you..

Nice job buddy

Just bought the same plane you are using. It is intimidating but I figure I watch enough vids I should be fairly comfy with it. First to build a box. The cardboard box it came in is moldy and breaking up. I am left handed and wonder it this is going to be a problem. If so I will sell it and get a Veritas left handed plane. Takes all the same cutters. Thanks for the helpful info.

Thank you for your detailed explanation! I've used my 45 for a dozen or so projects and often had issues not knowing exactly how to set it up and making a mess being too greedy and forgetting to prevent tear out, always having to come back with unnecessary chisel work. Between you and Roy Underhill (And 20 other teachers...) I'll be cranking out boxes with confidence! I do have a clarification, if you can. When you set the spacing of the two metal plates/runners that support the blade, you were about 3/8" 5/16"? Then in use it looked a little closer, then in the final shot they look almost bedded directly against each other. That's been one of my wonderings; should it be right at the edge of the blade, halfway between? 2/3rds of the width of the blade, 7/8ths? Edit:...I listened back again and heard you say, "~Adding that extra support behind the blade in the right position...will help hold the blade firmly and make the cut easier.~" So I'm going to deduce that somewhere past half and somewhere before flush with the edge? Edit: I like Roy's design and jigs, so I've been watching him back after seeing Wood by Wright's box from firewood today. In his Sliding Lid Boxes episode (www.pbs.org/video/woodwrights-shop-sliding-lid-boxes/) at 5 minutes in he is using a 45 to plow a groove, but doesn't have the second one attached, is that typical then for smaller width blades and/or long grain situations? Thanks again, I think I'm getting it now!?

Fantastic! Thank you. Any comment on whether the Stanley 45 does a better job than the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane or the Stanley 78?

Good video. I've seen you use a Stanley 78 also. Which do you prefer for rabbets?

Can a Record 044 be used for cross-grain rebates?

Is it possible to remake the notch in a blade that has been retracted without loosening the wingnut (and broken off the top end)? I notice in your other video on blade sharpening that a couple of your blades had no notch.

Is a Stanley 45 worth it if you got a veritas small plow plane and dedicated rebate plane?

Good video. The #45 was a complete disaster back in the day. Back then many men could not read or even sign their name. So why even include a manual with the plane? In short, these planes were shelved after such a short use. Hence, why there are so many coming out of dusty garages and put on ebay.

6

This is not rebate plane.. but plough plane