best explanations ever!!!!no loud music,good camera work and clear voice and explanation. very good work Mike.

I know nothing of the mechanical nature. Until I found this weird looking thing with a spinning wheel on it laying in a ditch. Turns out it's a denso alternator, mind you I didn't even know what the hell it did once up on a time. You have learned me something right. Thanks man!

I'm right at 6 minutes and I'm thoroughly enjoying the superb close up shots and super clear explanations. Thank you very much sir.

To install the bearing throw it in the freezer over night. Turn on the oven and throw the alternator shell in it for about 15 minutes or just heat it with a heat gun. Take the the bearing out of the freezer and while the alternator shell is still hot place the bearing in the bed. It fits right in and it may only require few taps...You are welcome.Do NOT pound a bearing on the inner ring! Find a large enough socket or a piece of pipe which will match the outer ring diameter.

Great tutorial! I followed along step by step and rebuilt mine in hardly any time at all.

Thanks for the lesson Mike. You have just helped me out BIG!

Your vid is the BOMB!!!! Thx sooooo much for posting this. Without your help I may have not done bearings on the truck

A very nice online teacher with step by step explanation. Much thanks from 🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪

Thanks for this refresher! We learned it in Navy A-school. During the exam, one of the multiple choices for what tool to use for taking apart an alternator was "BFH". One who did not do his homework might choose that - a Big Effin Hammer :)

excellent diy for the alternators. you did a great guidance compering to a lot of video I saw in the you tube. very precise, handful, applicable and in one word marvelous JOB. thanks so much . hoping for more work like this one. It helped me much.......

Followed the video. Rebuild completed without any issues. Thanks.

18:10 Is where replacement of brushes starts.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. l am no auto electrician but this video was very easy to follow and understand excellent work

I saw the other guy, for the case bearing, heat the bearing case and freeze the bearing set, and then put them into couple easily, no hitting.

9:05....make sure your feet are out of the way. I almost had to get a new foot! Awesome video. Thanks!

Very well made video! You are a definite expert sir! Good job

Nice video, however when you tap down to remove the front cover put the nut on flush with the shaft to protect the threads. Other than than simply awsome video. Keith.

Best explanation l have ever seen Thanks keep it up pal Have rebuilt my alternator easily after watching you, thanks again

Outstanding video, similar to the one you did on the starter motor. Nothing like the kind of detail needed to do this at home, and full credit for a technique using simple tools. Does your company ship to Canada?

Very informative & well produced Subscribed

Great video!! helped so damn much but when i took mines apart i found a small wire that looks like it was on the rotor but is just hanging. is it suppose to be solder on there?

Still Super Useful in 2021, Thanks!

Hello Mike, thanks for this very informative video. I have a 2006 Honda Accord with the 3.0L V-6 and my original alternator went out about a year and a half, or so, ago. I then purchased and installed a remanufactured 110 amp Denso unit from RockAuto. This Denso/RockAuto unit has been on the car now for around 18 months, give or take. However, approximately 4 months ago, one morning when I started the engine I started hearing this high-pitched whining sound coming from the engine bay. At first, my immediate thought was that it sounded just like a power steering pump, low on fluid. The whine did NOT get louder and/or quieter when turning the steering wheel, in either direction, at idle, or otherwise. I checked the power steering fluid and looked over the hoses for any leaks that may have been sucking air into the system, but nothing!!! I also took a long screwdriver and placed the tip on both the power steering pump and the alternator and placed my ear on the opposite end and the vibration noises coming from the alternator were way louder and way more intense than the vibration noises coming from the power steering pump, like night and day difference. So, after a process of elimination, it is my opinion that it is NOT the power steering pump/system, but rather my alternator, from where the whine is coming from and where my problem lies. I have no problem buying a kit from your site, however, at the same time I would also just like to know why and what is causing the alternator to whine like it is. Is it possible for you to tell me more about this whining noise coming from the alternator? I did a little research online, on some Honda forums, and found exactly what I expected to find... I expected to find ANY answer that I wanted to find and everything in between!!! Some threads said that the whine could be a diode that has burnt out or gone out and it could be this or that and whatever else you could imagine. While I am NOT 100% positive, I do NOT believe that it's the alternator bearings making the whining noise, simply because usually bearings make more of a roaring noise and this is a whine NOT a roar. It also does NOT sound like any bearing I've ever heard that was on the fritz. I mean, to me, it's really more like a supercharger or power steering pump whine than any bearing I have ever heard when going out. Thanks in advance and I look forward to seeing what you have to say in regards to my issue.

Notice the line where the front housing meets the rear housing, especially if just buying a reman. That split point should be even all the way around. There is a small lip on both housings it must be clean, I used a Dremel and a brass wire wheel

Nice video. But what if you do have to replace the brush slip rings? How is that done?

Dude! Thank you for such a detailed tutorial.

*Do you ever use any sealant when reassembling an alternator; especially a Bosch water cooled alternator?*

Excellent video; I learned a lot. Thanks so much.

Thanks for a very methodical procedure to tear down the alternator. I would suggest that if you strip the alternator that far down, then it is a good idea to to do a continuity check of terminal to terminal, terminal to ground as well as measure winding resistance for the rotor and each of the three windings of the stator.

got it all apart except for the dam inner bearing its gonna do severe damage prying like you show in the video i tried and im not destroying a shaft in the vise cause the vise cannot hold the shaft as i pry up so i ordered an alternator bearing puller for 15.00 im doing the slip collar as well i used my press to put the outer bearing in used a large socket to press it in super slick n easy. did one a long time ago i kinda like doing bench work like this its fun you made this easy except the slip collar ill find a destroyed cummins denso alternator ill rebuild with a new collar

Thanks for sharing this video with us.

Sir, very detailed and very informative vdo. I really the way you explain each and thing. You are excellent. Keep it up.

👍👍 THX Useful tuto to discover how the alternator of my XJ is made

Awesome video! Precise and detailed!

when all you have is a hammer everything starts to look like nails...

It helped me a lot ,Thank you so much bro!!!!

how do you test the rectifier to see if it is working order?

Can your company supply replacement copper commutator slip-rings?

when doing this my lunch slipped and I broke the plastic ring. is this something I need to worry about? will it cause any issues?

I would imagine this alternator is scrap judging by the cracked casing at 15:40

This instructional is a treasure.

8:41 If you don’t grind those burrs off your Center Punch, you’re gonna “Shake Hands with Danger”! 🎸

Master class. Awesome

轴承安装方式貌似有点问题，还是应该用轴承冷安装工具，比如SKF的。

Thank you for your very informative video....the only question I have is if your Denso Alternator has a "Decoupler Pulley" on it, is there any different consideration (or tool) needed to remove that pulley?

Hi boss where can i buy the parts on the alternator

That was awesome! Thanks man!

This is an excellent video!Is the brush holder the same in all three(3) alternators?

Nicely done video. The only thing left out is how to install slip rings. My slip rings is deeply grooved and looks to be almost to the plastic. how to install a new slip ring?

Nice info! If I wanted to make my alternator "pretty" by cleaning, priming and painting the case, would I need to do anything else special to it besides the full teardown you show? Looking to put in a higher amperage alternator into a 1972 Charger. Thanks!

Size bearing?

Hey man I'd love to give you guys my business but unfortunately you don't offer kits for Honda. Thank you for the video and information anyways!

Nice video dude.

Mike what’s the most common part that fails on these Denso alternators. Brush assembly voltage regulator

Do you have any knowledge to why my alternator would be overcharging with 16+ volts? It does it with the voltage regulator unplugged too and the voltage increases with RPM

v nice job

Why don't you use a bigger dickey are bearing tool to hammer it in?

s there a way to make a GM Alternator that is internally regulated go to 100% duty cycle to test its max amp output ?

What part of the alternator is to be replaced if it doesn't charge, and the light indicator doesn't off when the engine is running?

Materi. Like!

Nice, Using basic tool,

Good but process isn't complete without using some grease when rebuild the piece, I mean put some grease in bolts, bearing socket, threads and sliding parts in order to get easy reassembly and facilitate disassembly in the future, also some grease or oil contributes to better adjust and tighten of parts, other reccomendation is to use some piece or aluminum, bronze or wood to beat the main shaft, it maintain measures and finishings in a good shape.

Hi I did it but when I closed it it's not spinning freely and it's grinding . I changed both wheel bearings . Do u think it's not align properly or fans r touching housing / casing ?. Regards

Hello sir, please can I get in touch with you?

Muy bueno el video y gracias por compartir el conocimiento. Queria hacerle una pregunta tecnica a ver si usted me puede ayudar, tengo un alternador denso de cherokee 95 el numero de parte es Denso 210-0130 el cual dejo de trabajar lo desmonte y cambie escobillas y al montar en la primera arrancada manda 14V y funciona perfecto en todo, pero al siguiente dia ya no funciona, entonces vuelvo a bajar el alternador y monto de nuevo y vuelve a funcionar perfecto y luego deja de trabajar en la segunda arrancada, ya descarte diodera y estator ya verifique todo el ramal que va desde el alternador a la PCM pero me surge una gran duda el arnes va conectado a dos postes con unas tuerquitas de 7mm esa pieza tiene el numero ATR-6001 y mi duda es si esa pieza funciona como un regulador aun cuando en este caso de jeep cherokee regula la PCM, esa pieza tiene una especie de diodo o resistencia que no se como verificar que este buena y en eso es que espero por favor me pueda ayudar. De antemano muchas gracias y disculpe lo largo de mi comentario. Saludos

12mins in. Is it difficult to remove the windings from the housing? Want to vapor blast the entire casing while stripped. For cosmetics only. Cheers

What about the rectifier. Why would it not be changed. Wouldn’t it not charge if it was bad ?

Do you have videos on 2013 Honda Accord alternator rebuild?

Thx u can u make one on how to up grade /to make/with part #/ a honda accord 2.3 alternator make 300 amps please thx u again

A13188 Very Good Video, im retired after 30 years in my Shop

Everythings great Except: Can NOT find any video from you on how to REPLACE THE SLIP RINGS on a Denso alternator! PLEASE UPLOAD ONE!

Hi, thankx for this video , im portuguese and my Jeep Cherokee alternator dont have that number reference but its almost identical , so im having an. issue whit it , when driving and at 2000 rp or more i have about 13 volts and all ok but when i stop hit the pedal sometimes i have about 11, 50 volts or so , even at nigth and i can see ligths going more alive if i hit the acelerador pedal and something funny started happen too wish is my volt gauge fall to 9 volts and then up again , do this almost always i start drive the car .Checking the voltage whit multimiter at alternator i got 12 volts and sometimes less, whit no one hiting pedal ofcorse , but i guess its not working something there . I alreaddy switch the brushes but problem remains, checked the rectifier whit multimiter and i got the same value in all so i presume its good , now i dont know where to check more ; my slip rings are exacly like yours there and i thougth it was the problem but now i saw your video and maybe its not from there , so can you have ideia where my problem can be or what can i check \'

Can you change the slip rings?

I didn't see a kit for a Subaru. Do you recommend one? I was told my diode is bad.

You were so careful not to hammer through the bearings when you first installed both of them.... but then you hammered through the front one when installing the rotor, and then the back one when installing the rear casing.

What if you did have to replace the Rotor Slip Rings? Is that replaceable? How is that done?

How do you change the slip rings on that alternator?That is the only problem I have.

Why is a voltage regulator the same price as a whole alternator? Ive looked everywhere the cheapest is autozone for $80 while a brand new alternator is $100

Is it required the drop the rotor on the floor possibly damaging it? lol

Nice video but I your website doesn't work unfortunately when I tried ordering parts.

Too bad you don't have rebuild kits for my 07 Jeep wrangler 3.8L. Local rebuilder puts cheap Chinese parts in them don't last. I had 200k on mine bearings went out sounded like a groaning sound. I thought it was my PS, or Automatic transmission. I removed the belt and started it the noise was gone. I took it to local rebuilder he rebuilt it the diode board blew out while I was 44 miles up a rock crawling trail in AZ. What a pita had to rope tow out and winch about 10 times using 4 jumper cables to jump tow vehicle power to my rear bumper winch pull me backwards in the switchbacks. Buy OEM if you can't rebuild yourself now, I keep a spare. New OEM worth it when you get stuck on a trail.

why dont you clean it

Where do you order the parts?

Thx u thx u can u rebuild one for a 2001 honda accord 2.3l and make it a high output amp one plz

There should be diameter wear limit on the copper slip ring. The notion that still seeing copper is OK is wrong.

Who ever recorded this vdo understand the frames of each shot.

Do NOT hammer on the plastic slip ring...

10:30 pry bar? LOL.. You need a bearing puller, that was nasty.

what is that NOISE...mercy

Alt. Renuil

Unfortunately you don't carry anything for toyota. Denso is the number brand that Toyota uses.

I can understand hammer and all but 12:00 socket extension on the huge diameter bearing? Come on .....; at least look around your shop for something better. These must be how street guys given hammer to tear down concrete walls.I would not go to this rebuilder.

men your work is not safe....

Anything's possible but I doubt it. If you found one leave a link. The guys in the shop have been using Snap-on CG270 but we had to customize it by grinding off the bottom part of the legs and removing the centering piece and using a penny. (the recessed opening in the top is so small, any puller's shaft would bend before pulling the bearing) However, the penny with a CG270 is malleable enough to conform and pull without any damage to the plastic slip ring if the centering devise has been removed. PROBLEM is our site is dedicated to the average guy with basic tools. alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/about-us/. SOLUTION is pry bars. When used carefully, they work great.