Funny, now that you mention it, it probably should have been a bit lower. I had intended to check clearance and then just never got around to it. I'm actually considering pulling the engine partially out just to replace the pump anyway since I went with a high pressure pump which isn't necessary and causing undo wear on the oil pump driver gears. Thanks for watching!

Yeah, still missed a few things with doing the stroker. Lessons learned on that cam shaft and distributor gear when you get to that video. :)

I am still considering painting it, but I will probably leave it alone. I was a little hesitant with the price, but it fit great. I'm glad my video was of help to you. I've watched plenty of videos from other people and they have been helpful to see what works and what doesn't work.

They are D port #16 heads, but small valve. Had an old-time hotrod guy rebuild and port match them for me. I don't remember the exact CC of the combustion chambers(I measured it in one of my videos), but I ran into calculated compression ratios that were too high for pump gas and cast iron heads, so that is why I went with the dished pistons. Rockers are only 1.55 ratio due to some limitations with the valve travel in the heads. It's not the best setup, but for what I wanted to spend at the time(supply chain issues too) it was fine and has plenty of power to get myself into trouble. One of my videos goes into more detail on the numbers, but I don't recall off the top of my head right now. Butler Performance was very helpful with helping me get the right stuff for my mix of parts. Wish Pontiac aluminum heads were as cheap as Chevy! Thanks for watching!

Holding up great. No issues so far.

Nope, no modifications to the windage tray. It also holds the end of the oil dipstick on mine. Not a 68 GTOl block if that makes a difference to your question. YD block actually.

This type of setup with the hydraulic rollers just requires tightening to zero lash, then going about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn extra for pre-load. I adjust the valve lash in this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z7ykp5Z_1Ju6m6M.html on my channel.

I went with a mild cam that only has a max lift of about .490 or so. I didn't see the need to upgrade the studs since I didn't have to go with high rate springs. These #16 heads are the small valve style also, not the good #16 heads, so the extra effort and expense doing the screw-in studs wasn't a priority for me. Unfortunately aftermarket Pontiac heads are very expensive, so this was definitely a compromise. I appreciate the comment. I know this isn't an ideal setup, but it was what I had available to work with at the time.

@@DoItMyselfGarage I see, but why build a stroker and roller motor and use press in studs its confusing. You could have very easily done it yourself you seem very knowledgeable around motors.👍

My machining background has helped me a bunch, but some of the motor specific things have caught me off guard. I haven't fired it up yet, so maybe I should take the time to swap out the studs. I've been dreading it, but I probably should just bite the bullet and get it done so it is one less thing to worry about. Thanks again for your response.

@@DoItMyselfGarage I just found your channel this evening. Don't know if you did screw in studs but it's a very easy job. According to Jim Hand 'Performance Pontiac' book, bare heads are 55lbs, Alloy heads about 26lbs but, as you said, Pontiac heads are crazy expensive ($1800 last time I priced them 10 years ago) particularly compared to small block Chevy

@@1crazypj Didn't do the screw in studs because I stayed with stock spring pressures and the lift is under .500. I will continue to monitor them and see if I run into any issues. I'm sure I'll eventually upgrade to aluminum heads at some point, but for the way I drive it (like a grandpa) they should hopefully hold up.

Doing great so far. Didn't do a dyno test or anything like that yet. Still working on my 500 mile break-in. Will give an update once I get some highway miles on it and can open it up a bit more. Still babying it and figuring out my transmission shift points.

@@DoItMyselfGarage ok sounds good, what was that sealer you used on the valley pan?

@@russbonneau9152 Permatex if I remember correctly. No issues with that so far. Still not happy with the transmission pan seal. Will redo that once I have some miles on it. Used just the gasket and should have use some sealant in hindsight.

@@DoItMyselfGarage i would not use a sealer on that, it could get in the transmission.

@@russbonneau9152 That's why I didn't to start with, but it is leaking terribly. Was really careful on the torque. Not sure what the best solution is because "everyone" says their pans leak regardless of the gasket type, but mine is a river.

SUM-G3542 It's a Summit version. Looks like it will work good. Didn't have any fitment issues except for the end getting bent in shipping.