Easy to understand, unlike some of these video's, and the sound was great. I enjoyed watching this. Hope to see you do B&M shift kit some time, and a high performance build on a C6. Thanks....
@julior19802 жыл бұрын
Thank you, with your explanation, I was able to disassemble my valve body and overhaul it successfully.
@nickstransmissions2 жыл бұрын
That's great to hear, Julio!
@keltecfan2 жыл бұрын
Hello. Scotchbrite on the valves & a set of Bench Buddy bore brushes for the valve body bores (& WD40) is a great combo for cleaning up a valve body. It's been years since I've been into a C4/C6 but recall them being susceptible to the slightest bit of grit/debris hanging up a valve. FYI, if you're not familiar with them, there's a KZfaq video demonstrating the Bench Buddy. Great detailed video, thanks for taking the time to detail the process.
@nickstransmissions2 жыл бұрын
Yep, I regularly use them. They are lifesavers!
@0lddragracer4262 жыл бұрын
When I worked for a Ford dealership back in the 60's, I used to service valve bodies once in a while. Instead of WD40, we used ChemTool. The valves would get this brownish tar on them, and make them stick. The ChemTool carburetor cleaner would take that stuff right off.
@kevinclancy.9 ай бұрын
I was reassembling mine and I am also using the same shift kit. I was scratching my head as to why I have an extra check ball left over- it's because the shift kit replaces the original throttle pressure relief check ball with the one from the kit with the point on top :)
@douglaselser2440 Жыл бұрын
Really appreciate the detail on this - thanks!
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Thanks, Douglas!
@jimmycenedella946918 күн бұрын
GREAT valve body assembly, I so needed it to progress, especially after being apart for 2 yrs.......Cleaning parts ( 2yrs. ago now) I found a part I did not recognize at all, thought it was not part of the C6, but now after spending time with valves etc., I wonder ? Can I send you a picture of it, see if you know what it is ? Thanks Jimmy
@nickstransmissions17 күн бұрын
Thank you Jimmy! I don't have any way for you to send me a picture of anything, unfortunately. You can match up the parts in your valve body with the valve body diagram in the ATSG manual for the Ford C6. Skip to page 16: www.garysgaragemahal.com/files/theme/FordC6RebuildProcedures.pdf
@connerchampion565611 ай бұрын
do those torque specs for the bolts to the filter screen assembly apply for all year the models 1966-96? what year model was this valve body? what vehicle was this for?
@nickstransmissions11 ай бұрын
Hi Conner, to my knowledge those fastener torque specs are applicable to all years and variants of the C6 valve bodies. Those classic 80s Broncos (and their counterparts, the K5 Blazers) are awesome trucks. They sure don't make them like that anymore, unfortunately. Thank you for watching!
@lornequinn4622 ай бұрын
Hi Nick. Have two valve bodies, 72’ and ‘79. . I’ve completed the ‘79 c6 rebuild. Can I make one valve body from parts of these two vb’s. The ‘79 vb has some of its valves weather stuck. The ‘72 is in good shape. Your thoughts
@nickstransmissions2 ай бұрын
Hi Lorne, unfortunately you cannot...The C6 underwent significant engineering changes in mid-1976 which impacted the valve body as well as low-reverse apply and exhaust circuits. The gist is the exhaust for L/R was moved from the low reverse piston to the valve body so that change made the two vintages not interchangeable between early 76 and back and mid-76 and forward...You'll need to source a mid-1976+ valve body that's in good shape.
@lornequinn4622 ай бұрын
@@nickstransmissionsthanks Nick.
@nickstransmissions2 ай бұрын
You're welcome, Lorne.
@JohnSmith-wj2wd Жыл бұрын
-edit below I'm currently rebuilding my valve body after cleaning up, and I seem to be having troubles with the torque. I have a torque wrench that I had set to 22ft-lb to tighten the valve caps which should be on the low end of the 20-30 spec. However when I tighten the bolt, it seems to require a lot of force before it clicks. In fact, one of the bolts snapped off before I even reached the 22ft-lb. Is it possible that the bolt was just in a bad shape, and that it's normal to feel quite a force needed to tighten them, or should I get that wrench checked? When I test it on other bolts from random objects, it does click. I don't really dare to try it again out of fear of stripping the threads or possibly snapping of a bolt flush with the housing. This one I could still remove thankfully. -edit 2 seconds after typing this it dared to me. It's supposed to be inch pounds and not pound foot. Being used to metric where we only have Nm didn't help apparently. I guess I am very very lucky that only the bolt snapped
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Hey John, are you referring to the bolts used to assembled the two valve body halves? If so, the book calls for between 30-40 INCH lbs for those valve body-to-channel plate bolts so if you went to 22 FOOT lbs then you far exceeded the spec and that caused the bolt to snap (bolt was fine prior to). If you're are in fact referring to all the bolts used to assemble the valve body, you will need to withdraw them all and check your threads - you may or may not need to install helicoil inserts into each one. Additionally, you may or may not have warped the castings, resulting in shifting/drivability issues but won't know for sure until you take the vehicle for a test drive. In my video, im using an inch lb torque wrench set at 30 in lbs, i believe. ETA: Saw your edits...
@JohnSmith-wj2wd Жыл бұрын
@@nickstransmissions Thankfully I was immediately suspicious of the first bolt that ended up snapping, so none of the others are damaged. I feel quite stupid for not having realized this mistake or not even noticing how awfully tight this nut was about to become. Also very lucky that the bolt broke off before the thread could strip. I could remove the broken stud by hand without any issues. The thread still appears fine and I could insert another bolt with no issue. Goes to show what tunnelvision can do when I was so confident that the wrench was set correctly, completely disregarding the fact that it was way beyond a snug fit as you described the two bolts that you had to tighten manually. A wise lesson to learn that could've been way more costly, had I persisted with the same torque on the rest of the bolts. The body is now assembled with proper torque specs which of course felt like a world of difference. Only missing that one bolt that I'm now looking for online. Btw, thank you for always responding. Your videos and help have been a lifesaver, and are something that I constantly keep open while I work on the transmission.
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
You're welcome, man! Glad it was only one bolt.
@JohnSmith-wj2wd Жыл бұрын
@@nickstransmissions I forgot to ask. Do you happen to know what thread type this is? I'm in the EU where these bolts are non standard, and it's a bit tricky to identify this one. Is it a typical UNC or UNF thread, or did Ford use something else for the Valve body?
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Sorry, I dont off hand and wont be in the shop again until tomorrow where the manuals are.
@jim319211 ай бұрын
Very informative videos! Well done! Would you be able to let me know a source or vendor where I could buy a replacement main boost valve and sleeve for an early style C6 in a 1967 Galaxie? All the replacement boost valves and springs that I am finding are for the later style. Early style is much shorter. Later style will not fit in bore. Thanks.
@nickstransmissions11 ай бұрын
Thanks, Jim! Check JEGS for Sonnax's early c6 boost valve kit: www.jegs.com/i/Sonnax/852/36941-01K/10002/-1
@jim319211 ай бұрын
@@nickstransmissions Thank you Nick! That’s close but the stock ‘67 C6 boost valve and sleeve did not use O-rings. Unless it is now recommended to switch to the O-ring type??
@nickstransmissions11 ай бұрын
You're welcome, Jim! Sonnax uses an O-ring design on nearly all of their boost valve kits that they make for various transmissions as the O-rings act to seal off another wise worn pump boost valve sleeve bore that would leak, resulting in pressure losses and eventual burn up of applied elements in the case. So use a ton of assembly lube on the o-rings and bore when you go to install it...Also use some of the thick, green assembly lube to hold the valve in the sleeve so it doesn't pop out while your trying to get it seated all the way in the bore. Purchase that valve, keep you receipt. I'd actually look for it on Amazon for trouble-free returns if it turns out not to fit your application.
@jim319211 ай бұрын
@@nickstransmissions OK great! Thanks, Nick! I will order that Sonnax valve and sleeve. And get the assembly lube. I appreciate your help and explanation, as this info definitely helps my understanding of these early C6 components. There were pressure losses as you mentioned. This rebuild should resolve things. Best regards!
@nickstransmissions11 ай бұрын
Awesome, man - let me know how it turns out!
@jonathanhenderson8403Ай бұрын
Hey buddy, I’ve got 3 check balls… do I just omit the 3rd bc of the kit, or should I use it? It’s a 79.
@nickstransmissionsАй бұрын
Hi Jon, absent any other details, I'd follow the directions that came with the kit you are installing.
@jonathanhenderson8403Ай бұрын
Man, you should make a site where people your videos have helped can post photos of their transmissions.
@nickstransmissionsАй бұрын
That's a great idea, Jon! I think I will incorporate that into my website...I plan on launching it this fall and will do a video once it's available.
@jonathanhenderson8403Ай бұрын
@@nickstransmissions Hey man, I finally found the endplay I had zero of… you’re a long way removed from stupid beginners mistakes, but mine was in the low reverse spring seat. I didn’t properly set the race, and torqued a few final foot pounds after it was set. This caused the springs to go bucked… increased it a bit… I also found a problem where one of the bearings was a bit swollen, even after cleaning. I made a whole check list that’s around here somewhere… but that could also be a useful video for beginners. Man, I scoured every forum and couldn’t find the answers anywhere. I’m sure you’d help a load of folk out with a video like that. I read Ford forum after forum of guys at the end saying thanks to everyone, and that they were just taking it into a tranny shop. I’m quite certain most of them botched the race/spring seat just like myself 🤷🏻♂️
@cjholcombe6907 Жыл бұрын
What's your diagnosis of a c6 that's shifts good doesn't slip but doesn't havea 3rd gear?
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Does the transmission not upshift out of 2nd gear at all or does it go from being in 2nd gear to feeling like it's in neutral when shifting into third gear?
@cjholcombe6907 Жыл бұрын
@@nickstransmissions it goes from second to pretty much neutral
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Do you have reverse? If so, any issues with engagement into reverse?
@cjholcombe6907 Жыл бұрын
@@nickstransmissions yes reverse works. Sometimes a slight delay switching into it
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Ok...Delayed engagements reverse coupled with a neutral condition when shifting from 2-3 indicates your direct clutch pack is on its way out...If you haven't done so, drop the pan and check the fluid and for clutch material. If you see a whole bunch, I'd pull the transmission and rebuild it. Also flush out your lines and trans cooler (the one that's inside your radiator) before reinstalling it back in.
@EudriceRiosАй бұрын
Me gustaría más en español
@nickstransmissionsАй бұрын
Sorry, I don't speak Spanish but perhaps you can use a translator app of some sort to have the video transcription in your native language.
@Insidious01011 Жыл бұрын
Its criminal you dont get many views on your channel. What symptoms would the vehicle produce if a spring on the servo accumulator valve was absolutely demolished. I ask becuase i found power loss uphill and delayed shifting between reverse and 1st gear. While in the process of rebuilding the transmission found the spring absolutely destroyed.
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
Thank you, Jake! Yes, agreed - its nearly as bad a murder in the first, haha. Hopefully KZfaq sees your comment, acts accordingly and views pick up soon. Typically, when that spring brakes, 1-2 and 2-1 shifts become soft/early and band usually aggressively wears and burns. Its popular to shim or block that valve in concert w/the servo modulator valve inboard for firm shifts, especially for high stall/high RPM set ups. Sonnax also sells replacement acc servo valve springs if you want to keep it largely factory: www.sonnax.com/parts/2098-1-2-accumulator-valve-spring-kit The cut back valve is also often modified by putting a 1/4 check ball block it inboard as well. This gives full line pressure all the time (I typically only do it for full race or serious street strip. Those mods should be done with respect to your Servo code (R servos are the most aggressive and have the largest apply surface area of all stock C6 servos), band lever ratio, band material/construction, vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, engine power/cam grind, etc… What did your other clutch packs look like on tear down?
@Insidious01011 Жыл бұрын
@@nickstransmissions thanks for your response. Clutches looked great. Very little wear. The transmission only has 110k miles but the vehicle sat in a garage for 20years.
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
You're welcome, Jake. Good luck on the rebuild - let me know if you have any other questions.
@Insidious01011 Жыл бұрын
@@nickstransmissions Hey Nick, what kind of shift kit do you recommend for the c6? Vehicle is an 89ford e350 transvan. Expected use is daily driving.
@nickstransmissions Жыл бұрын
For a daily driver, I'd run a Transgo SK6 shift kit which is what I'll typically install if the customer wants one...Easy to install and corrects a few common issues w/those transmissions as they otherwise are...Here's the link to the instructions so you can familiarize yourself in advance: res.cloudinary.com/transgo/wbiss/sk/SKC6.pdf