That's great to hear, Julio!

Yep, I regularly use them. They are lifesavers!

When I worked for a Ford dealership back in the 60's, I used to service valve bodies once in a while. Instead of WD40, we used ChemTool. The valves would get this brownish tar on them, and make them stick. The ChemTool carburetor cleaner would take that stuff right off.

Thanks, Douglas!

Thank you Jimmy! I don't have any way for you to send me a picture of anything, unfortunately. You can match up the parts in your valve body with the valve body diagram in the ATSG manual for the Ford C6. Skip to page 16: www.garysgaragemahal.com/files/theme/FordC6RebuildProcedures.pdf

Hi Conner, to my knowledge those fastener torque specs are applicable to all years and variants of the C6 valve bodies. Those classic 80s Broncos (and their counterparts, the K5 Blazers) are awesome trucks. They sure don't make them like that anymore, unfortunately. Thank you for watching!

Hi Lorne, unfortunately you cannot...The C6 underwent significant engineering changes in mid-1976 which impacted the valve body as well as low-reverse apply and exhaust circuits. The gist is the exhaust for L/R was moved from the low reverse piston to the valve body so that change made the two vintages not interchangeable between early 76 and back and mid-76 and forward...You'll need to source a mid-1976+ valve body that's in good shape.

@@nickstransmissionsthanks Nick.

You're welcome, Lorne.

Hey John, are you referring to the bolts used to assembled the two valve body halves? If so, the book calls for between 30-40 INCH lbs for those valve body-to-channel plate bolts so if you went to 22 FOOT lbs then you far exceeded the spec and that caused the bolt to snap (bolt was fine prior to). If you're are in fact referring to all the bolts used to assemble the valve body, you will need to withdraw them all and check your threads - you may or may not need to install helicoil inserts into each one. Additionally, you may or may not have warped the castings, resulting in shifting/drivability issues but won't know for sure until you take the vehicle for a test drive. In my video, im using an inch lb torque wrench set at 30 in lbs, i believe. ETA: Saw your edits...

@@nickstransmissions Thankfully I was immediately suspicious of the first bolt that ended up snapping, so none of the others are damaged. I feel quite stupid for not having realized this mistake or not even noticing how awfully tight this nut was about to become. Also very lucky that the bolt broke off before the thread could strip. I could remove the broken stud by hand without any issues. The thread still appears fine and I could insert another bolt with no issue. Goes to show what tunnelvision can do when I was so confident that the wrench was set correctly, completely disregarding the fact that it was way beyond a snug fit as you described the two bolts that you had to tighten manually. A wise lesson to learn that could've been way more costly, had I persisted with the same torque on the rest of the bolts. The body is now assembled with proper torque specs which of course felt like a world of difference. Only missing that one bolt that I'm now looking for online. Btw, thank you for always responding. Your videos and help have been a lifesaver, and are something that I constantly keep open while I work on the transmission.

You're welcome, man! Glad it was only one bolt.

@@nickstransmissions I forgot to ask. Do you happen to know what thread type this is? I'm in the EU where these bolts are non standard, and it's a bit tricky to identify this one. Is it a typical UNC or UNF thread, or did Ford use something else for the Valve body?

Sorry, I dont off hand and wont be in the shop again until tomorrow where the manuals are.

Thanks, Jim! Check JEGS for Sonnax's early c6 boost valve kit: www.jegs.com/i/Sonnax/852/36941-01K/10002/-1

@@nickstransmissions Thank you Nick! That’s close but the stock ‘67 C6 boost valve and sleeve did not use O-rings. Unless it is now recommended to switch to the O-ring type??

You're welcome, Jim! Sonnax uses an O-ring design on nearly all of their boost valve kits that they make for various transmissions as the O-rings act to seal off another wise worn pump boost valve sleeve bore that would leak, resulting in pressure losses and eventual burn up of applied elements in the case. So use a ton of assembly lube on the o-rings and bore when you go to install it...Also use some of the thick, green assembly lube to hold the valve in the sleeve so it doesn't pop out while your trying to get it seated all the way in the bore. Purchase that valve, keep you receipt. I'd actually look for it on Amazon for trouble-free returns if it turns out not to fit your application.

@@nickstransmissions OK great! Thanks, Nick! I will order that Sonnax valve and sleeve. And get the assembly lube. I appreciate your help and explanation, as this info definitely helps my understanding of these early C6 components. There were pressure losses as you mentioned. This rebuild should resolve things. Best regards!

Awesome, man - let me know how it turns out!

Hi Jon, absent any other details, I'd follow the directions that came with the kit you are installing.

Man, you should make a site where people your videos have helped can post photos of their transmissions.

That's a great idea, Jon! I think I will incorporate that into my website...I plan on launching it this fall and will do a video once it's available.

@@nickstransmissions Hey man, I finally found the endplay I had zero of… you’re a long way removed from stupid beginners mistakes, but mine was in the low reverse spring seat. I didn’t properly set the race, and torqued a few final foot pounds after it was set. This caused the springs to go bucked… increased it a bit… I also found a problem where one of the bearings was a bit swollen, even after cleaning. I made a whole check list that’s around here somewhere… but that could also be a useful video for beginners. Man, I scoured every forum and couldn’t find the answers anywhere. I’m sure you’d help a load of folk out with a video like that. I read Ford forum after forum of guys at the end saying thanks to everyone, and that they were just taking it into a tranny shop. I’m quite certain most of them botched the race/spring seat just like myself 🤷🏻‍♂️

Does the transmission not upshift out of 2nd gear at all or does it go from being in 2nd gear to feeling like it's in neutral when shifting into third gear?

@@nickstransmissions it goes from second to pretty much neutral

Do you have reverse? If so, any issues with engagement into reverse?

@@nickstransmissions yes reverse works. Sometimes a slight delay switching into it

Ok...Delayed engagements reverse coupled with a neutral condition when shifting from 2-3 indicates your direct clutch pack is on its way out...If you haven't done so, drop the pan and check the fluid and for clutch material. If you see a whole bunch, I'd pull the transmission and rebuild it. Also flush out your lines and trans cooler (the one that's inside your radiator) before reinstalling it back in.

Sorry, I don't speak Spanish but perhaps you can use a translator app of some sort to have the video transcription in your native language.

Thank you, Jake! Yes, agreed - its nearly as bad a murder in the first, haha. Hopefully KZfaq sees your comment, acts accordingly and views pick up soon. Typically, when that spring brakes, 1-2 and 2-1 shifts become soft/early and band usually aggressively wears and burns. Its popular to shim or block that valve in concert w/the servo modulator valve inboard for firm shifts, especially for high stall/high RPM set ups. Sonnax also sells replacement acc servo valve springs if you want to keep it largely factory: www.sonnax.com/parts/2098-1-2-accumulator-valve-spring-kit The cut back valve is also often modified by putting a 1/4 check ball block it inboard as well. This gives full line pressure all the time (I typically only do it for full race or serious street strip. Those mods should be done with respect to your Servo code (R servos are the most aggressive and have the largest apply surface area of all stock C6 servos), band lever ratio, band material/construction, vehicle weight, rear gear ratio, engine power/cam grind, etc… What did your other clutch packs look like on tear down?

@@nickstransmissions thanks for your response. Clutches looked great. Very little wear. The transmission only has 110k miles but the vehicle sat in a garage for 20years.

You're welcome, Jake. Good luck on the rebuild - let me know if you have any other questions.

@@nickstransmissions Hey Nick, what kind of shift kit do you recommend for the c6? Vehicle is an 89ford e350 transvan. Expected use is daily driving.

For a daily driver, I'd run a Transgo SK6 shift kit which is what I'll typically install if the customer wants one...Easy to install and corrects a few common issues w/those transmissions as they otherwise are...Here's the link to the instructions so you can familiarize yourself in advance: res.cloudinary.com/transgo/wbiss/sk/SKC6.pdf