Glad you enjoyed it!

Glad it helped!

You are so welcome!

Thanks for the lovely comment!

I'm glad it was useful!

Thanks!

You are most welcome

what a lovely comment, thanks!

So nice of you

You're welcome!

No problem

adding too much deflocculant can have an adverse affect on the slip, making it get thick and even separate.. go easy!

Thats normal. You can get the slip weight perfect, flowing perfectly, then check the next day and the weight may not have changed but the viscosity is likely to have changed, which is when you need to add deflocculant.

If it is too light, you'll need to add more clay. If this makes it too thick, add a deflocculant to thin it down.

I use the same ratios for reclaiming Stoneware slip, however the amount of sodium silicate (deflocculant) will be different. Stoneware slip needs more deflocculant than earthenware.

@@HobbyCeramicraft that is so cool to know because I have made a mould and I will be using the slip from our wheels to pour soon. Thank you so very much for all that you do all of you at HobbyCeramiCraft. I really appreciate being one of your clients.

During the casting process the effect of the deflocculant reduces, even a well balanced flowing slip left a few days can need adjusting with a bit more deflocculant. If you weigh your slip and it is still too thick to cast, then there is no question you need to add deflocculant to make it flow.

@@HobbyCeramicraft Between me writing my last comment and you writing yours, I managed to make a slip from scratch and made my first kiln load of slip cast wares, which is exciting. I had some time to think about things in that time whilst recycling some trimmings and having to add darvan exactly as you said. The thought I had was that the deflocculent is an electrolyte that causes the clay particles to repel each other. The slip becomes runny but syrupy, which is also curious. I assume that repulsion is caused by a charge and that charge weakens over time or when the trimmings dry out (because water is ionic). But also wonder if it it's possible to reintroduce charge without adding more deflocculent. For example if the mixer propeller or impeller was of a clever design, perhaps based on some of the principles discovered by Schauberger, a great yet unconventional inventor who designed implosion based, charge inducing machines.

You'll need to do some test firing. Finding a temperature at which the clay is stable may be relatively simple.. fire to 'x' if it is ok, refire to 'y'.. etc.. however finding a glaze which fits onto the clay may be a bit tricky. Good luck though.. if its a nice colour you may be ok just adding some basic colours and not putting glazes on, dodging the COE fit issue with glaze.

@@HobbyCeramicraft - what does the COE fit issue mean? I am a total newbie at this.

@@jmortonsalt Coefficient of Expansion. How much a material expands and contracts when heated and cooled. This is why you have glazes for certain clays, designed to expand and contract at similar rates to the material they are put onto. If the glaze contracts when cooling more than the clay then you get crazing which is a spider web of cracks in the glaze surface. If you have the clay contracting more than the glaze then you get 'shivering' which is where the glaze literally detaches in a sheet. Get it right, happy days!

Just habit. Helps average out any miscalulations on reclaiming ratios if you mix it with a decent amount of premixed new slip.

That's not too bad, you can cast with slip at that weight, but if you want to add more clay, just remember it will need more deflocculant in order to flow.

@@HobbyCeramicraft ok i ll try thank youu

Aw, thanks! You can make slip from regular clay, just don't forget to add deflocculant or you'll just get mud! I go for 25% just so I don't have to really think about measurements too much.. if the 75% is new and measured, then the other 25% can be off a little and I won;t notice!

I also make slip from regular wet clay. Oddly, making slip from blocks of wet clay is not as simple as from dry.. you have to really mix and mix to break down the chunks of clay to get a slurry.

Precisely.

You can add too much sodium silicate. If you do, it can be tricky to pull it back so it is a good idea to add cautiously. To be prudent I would take a smaller quantity of the slip out and add sodium silicate to that and see if that makes a difference, without the risk of making a mess of your main batch.

All good. The reason I choose a conical shaped bottle is that the top is narrow and it is easy to fill to exactly the same level each time. Whereas if you had a wide measuring container it may be a little more tricky to hit the same level, particularly if the slip was thick and not prepared to fall into a flat surface.

Hello brother, I want the mixture, the amount of water, the amount of clay, and the amount of silica, please

Just make sure you check the S.G. The amount of reclaim used should not affect the casting time.

Hi nirmani . Can you tell me what material you use for slip casting please . waiting for your reply.

Sorry, my translation of this didn't make any sense.. I have "what is the lead coloured mass?"

You need to deflocculate, also, you can drop the sg down a touch below 1.8 if you want by adding water, the slip will still work, albeit it will dampen the moulds a bit more.

Thank you

I know, right?

If the slip weighs the right amount and is too thick, add deflocculant. If the opposite and you have the right weight but too thin.. then it is likley you have added too much deflocculant, which is a problem. You should put that to one side and as it ages it will thicken. While you make the next batch, add in some of the thinner slip as a substitute for deflocculant.

I think deflocculant may be what you need..

Cast it with slip, and make it thick, then when you take the mould apart, you can cast plaster over the clay form and the other part of the mould, then do the other side.

@@HobbyCeramicraft I have trouble separating the plaster from the other side of the plaster. I've tried with liquid and solid vaseline, I've tried with dishwashing detergent, but the two halves always stick.

You really need "mold soap". I've been through a few and settled on the one I like, also, be sure you mix the plaster up to right consistency. If your plaster mix is too thin then it will not be very strong and more likely to leave chunks of plaster on the other piece.

Sorry about that

Thanks, is all the required information you are asking for not in the video?

@@HobbyCeramicraft surely I learned a lot from your video . 2 questions here : can we make slip from broken tiles having glaze on them?? 2nd : can we make slip direct from clay ?( I mean without going towards recycled clay)

First question, no. certainly not if the tiles are fired, but even if they are clay, you wouldn't want glaze in the slip mix. Second question, yes. the recycled slip will be very similar to regular clay in that it will need water and a deflocculant in order to make into a workable slip.

@@HobbyCeramicraft thank you so much for your kind reply and knowledge. Stay blessed ❤️❤️

Perfect! Glad this helped!

If you are making slip from reclaim the amount of water, sodium silicate, clay will vary from one mix to the next. Start by adding water to the clay you are reclaiming, then weigh the mix to see if it is too heavy or too light, then add water or clay to adjust the weight. If you get the right weight and its still too thick, then add sodium silicate. Try this video for some guidance on weighing a mix : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lcqkibV_r9HMZKs.html

Sorry about that..

yeah.. it is a bit quiet.. just find a peaceful place and block out the rest of the world to really get in the clay-zone when watching!