Wow, thanks! I'm so glad it was helpful and informative, that's always the goal and so rewarding to hear people comment that. Take care and happy shooting!

Glad it was useful even for someone as experienced as yourself. Thanks for watching and tune in for more videos in the future.

Thanks, will do!

Feel free to reach out in the comments or by email if you need more clarification on any of the concepts. Thanks.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for the kind words, you're exactly right! The misconception that ISO itself causes noise in images is one of the biggest in photography. Sorry for not responding sooner, I'm going through a lot of comments today.

Correct, and I have had similar experiences in photography classes throughout my high school and college career (4 different professors didn't believe what I saying and now one of them is literally teaching with my videos when I convinced him LOL). But yes, the lower the signal is reaching the sensor the harder it will be to raise that low signal to a level where it is adequately bright. For someone who wants a dark image then maybe shooting underexposed is fine for them but if you underexpose (either by accident because you don't know better or because the scene is simply dark) and try to brighten with ISO or with software then the grain will be more prominent. The ratio of signal to noise is called the signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) and a lot of exposure triangles actually replace the ISO side with SNR which I find interesting but not intuitive since it's not something you can overtly control (for example, I can't make the stars brighter or create clouds for a darker scene). That's also why I renamed it the "camera settings triangle" because that's ultimately the point with these graphics: to help photographers actually learn their camera and how to physically take photos.

@@Apalapse You should make a video on low-light photography! Like what kind of settings you should be using in order to achieve good looking photos that aren't grainy in the dark, whether it's night time or just in a low lit room. Obviously there will be some grain since there is less light hitting the sensor, but showing us how to mininimize that grain would be awesome!

@@ejfisc For low light photography you want: Long shutter speed, wide lens, low aperture (smaller number), and a sensor with high pixel pitch. That's what i've found out so far.

Exactly!

Definitely. I'm going to make a video about ISO invariance in the future and how beneficial it can be to photographers. I definitely learned from my last video about ISO that over-generalization can be a bad thing, which is why I included the asterisk in the beginning as well as the short segnement towards the end about photography instruction being a balance between generalization to help in understanding and over-technical explanation to remain 100% accurate.

I think exactly the same. Maybe in Digital Photography, the Triangle don't make any sense, but in Film Photography makes perfect sense.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and for the feedback!

Thank you very much!

Definitely! Here is the graphic: bit.ly/34kRC4W Let me know if you can't see it. Thanks!

Apalapse Thanks for sharing!

@@MythSK1 Sure thing. The pdf messed up some of the opacity settings I had in illustator. Does this address your requests? See: bit.ly/3c3T9Pm

You're welcome! Glad you liked it.

Of course, thanks for watching!

@@Apalapse You are welcome, always like to watch your videos

Sorry for the late response I have been preoccupied with school and other things. Exposure compensation will simply speaking fool the camera into thinking there is more or less light in the scene, so adjusting the exposure compensation, if you are in a program mode, will also affect the shutter speed and/or aperture, which will affect exposure. This is different from ISO which *just amplifies the signal. Of course the exposure compensation may also affect ISO, it just depends on what camera setting mode you are in. EV in post-processing can be adjusted to brighten or darken an image, so as you said, it's basically the same as ISO and I believe in future cameras we will see it replace in-camera ISO. Extended low ISOs do have an effect similar to this, however, where the camera's internal post-processing will decrease brightness by a third-stop, half-stop, or full-stop. I don't really know how this works, though, and I need to do more research into it.

@@Apalapse ty!

Exactly, you got it! Thanks for watching!

@@Apalapse You are welcome!! looking forward to see new videos from you , your content is great and to the point.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks and I'm glad you enjoyed the video.

Thank YOU for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.

So glad you find my videos useful and helpful. Stay tuned for more of them in the future and don't hesitate to reach out to me with questions or anything else.

Right, and that's why I kept it in the revised triangle I made. ISO still affects exposure, which is sometimes lost in the ISO is amplification oversimplification, so I made sure to address that in my camera settings triangle with the dual ISO diagram series. Fixing ISO at 100 (lowest native ISO on cameras) and simply adjusting shutter speed and aperture to maximize light to the extent of our artistic vision we should be able to get the most out of the light we gather and the gear we own.

This answer will vary based on what type of camera you have. If you have an ISO-invariant sensor inside your camera that means that what you said holds true; raising the ISO inside the camera is the same as boosting the brightness in post, and in this case, boosting in post may even lead to better image quality since you would be using the full dynamic range of the camera. Unfortunately, not all cameras are made like this, and a lot of sensors (especially in Canon cameras) are ISO-variant. ISO-variant cameras usually have better performance at higher ISOs if you want to boost exposure later (ex: astrophotography). This is because the electronics of the camera produce a lot of electronic noise that contributes to a larger portion of the noise signal at lower ISOs vs. higher ISOs. The electronic noise is a constant. Imagine a drop of food coloring (the electronic noise) in a test tube of water (low ISO) vs. a gallon jub of water (high ISO). In the high ISO photo, you barely know it's there! If you've heard of the banding issues on some Canon cameras where brightening the shadows reveals ugly fixed pattern noise, it's directly because that sensor is ISO-variant.

@@Apalapse Thank you so much for such a thorough explanation and analogy you used to make it more understandable. I just learned something new. I am a beginner and I own pretty basic and old camera (Nikon D3200), but I'm trying to learn as much as I can before upgrading it. Channels like yours are really helpful along that way. Love it, so please keep it up. Cheers!

@@tjsudac Glad I could help. Good luck and feel free to comment any questions you may have.

Good ideas, thanks. Sorry for taking so long to respond.

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching and stay safe and healthy!

Good idea. There were a lot of names I considered, from digital exposure triangle, like you said, to camera settings triangle, to brightness triangle, etc. Part of the problem with the triangle in the first place is that it simplifies things down a little too far in my opinion, but as I demonstrated, with some text explaining what everything is it can be a pretty powerful tool to help beginners figure out camera settings and how they interact with each other.

Glad you like them, you're welcome!

Thanks! I use Adobe Illustrator and Adobe After Effects to make my videos.

Good idea! I'll consider this for a future video.

Yes, ISO 640 is the best ISO to use for night shots with the a7r2/a7r3, since those cameras use a dual-gain ISO. The rule with underexposure is that if the shadows are being clipped, your ISO is too low, since the clipped shadows won't be recoverable. Sorry for the late response, hope this helps!

@@Apalapse No worries! Thanks for the answer and advice.

@@Apalapse Would I be wrong if I said that the exposure triangle is kind of linked to the concept of ISO Invariance to a certain point. I know that not all sensor perform that same using that method. Thx for sharing your thoughts!

I definitely agree, plus, just playing around with your settings teaches you how to use the camera. Sometimes learning is all about actually doing! The best advice I give to new photographers is to get out of Auto and go full manual. Even though manual mode isn't the best for all situations, as a beginner it solidifies the fundamentals quickly.

@@Apalapse exactly, I found the fastest way of learning was experimenting in manual mode.

Thanks for the comment, I just fixed the link so try it now and let me know if it's still not working.

@@Apalapse the link worked fine now. Thank you once again.

@@mumitrahman5294 You're very welcome!

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.

You're welcome!

Yes, depending on the camera you are using you can get better results using a low ISO and boosting the exposure in post. In Sony cameras, the best ISO is usually 640 to 3200, in Fuji, ISO 100 works fine, in Nikon, 3200-6400, and in Canon, 3200-8000. The best ISO to use for astrophotography depends a lot on the camera's internal electronics, since cameras all produce their own electronic noise that can be seen in photos, called read noise. Low amounts of read noise mean you can use lower ISOs and boost in post, which preserves dynamic range. Unfortunately, Canon and Nikon cameras have high read noise which is why most people recommend shooting around ISO 3200-6400. Sony cameras use a dual-gain ADC which makes ISO 640 the best (in the A7r2 sensor family; not sure if they're using a similar dual-gain sensor in the a7r4 or a7s3...). The best ISO is the one where read noise becomes minimized to a point where it makes up a negligible part of the total noise in the image. At low ISOs, the total proportion of noise from the camera itself compared to the total noise in the image is HIGHER than at high ISOs, since the amplification of the noise from the ISO comes before the electronic read noise is applied in the camera. This is also why you see banding in some cameras when trying to boost the shadows of low-ISO images but not high-ISO ones - read noise manifests itself as fixed pattern banding/streaking. Sorry for the late reply, but I hope this response helps a bit. I went a little off the deep end with the science and terminology, but this is the reality of photography and the science that controls how we take photos.

@@Apalapse wow, thanks for your detailed answer, I highly appreciate it and it helped me a lot. So it depends of the native ISO of the camera model, right?

@@Norain1992 Essentially, yes. The right ISO to use depends on the read noise of the camera, so if your camera has high read noise, you will have to use a high ISO to drown out that noise at the expense of lower dynamic range. In cameras with low amounts of read noise you can use lower ISOs because the read noise won't be visible, even when you boost it in post-production.

@@Apalapse okay great, now I understand how it works, thanks a lot. 😊 👌 Waiting for your next videos, your Tutorials are so damn good and well explained. :-) 👍

@@Norain1992 I'll have one uploaded next month!

Thanks!

There are some cameras like that such as the Sony a7r2 which has a dual ISO - one before and after ISO 640. In that case choose the lowest of each dual ISO depending on what you are shooting. For example, when I am taking star photos with my Sony a7r2, as long as no shadows are clipped I will always use ISO 640 instead of, say, ISO 400 or ISO 6400.

Glad you think so!

Sorry for the late reply. I use Adobe Illustrator to create the illustrations then I animate everything in Adobe After Effects. I use Adobe Audition to record my voice.

Trying to be upload more frequently but my life is insanely busy and the coronavirus does not help my situation.. I am separated from my studio and have to do all my work on an ancient laptop computer.

@@Apalapse oh. Stay safe mate

@@atulupadhyay6430 Will do! You too man.

That sounds like a good future video topic!

Hey, thanks for the comment, and I apologize for just getting back to you now. I create the illustrations in Adobe Illustrator and then animate the vectors in Adobe After Effects.

That's actually my own voice, thanks!

That's a good idea, actually. That might have to be my next video.

@@Apalapse thank you very very much sir..

Will do, sorry about the late reply.

Sorry for the late reply. I don't have any Apalapse-branded social media, but my personal is @vincentledvina on instagram - I post photos I take on there.

Yes I am still alive. What's up?

@@Apalapse oh good! Glad you're alive lol. What happens if i change the ISO on my film camera? I was told to change it to 400 when i have ISO 400 film in there but i just started to wonder what would my pictures look like if i had it set to 800

Interesting observation. Either way thank you for the kind words and I hope you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Can you provide more details?

Thanks!

0:49 "Expousure"

@@Hermaniac8 yes

Lol I feel that.

That would give you a dark visualization of the picture untill you boost the brightness in post. I just leave it on "Auto" (limited to 6400)

@@thecommenter578 nope. 100.

Yeah I'll shoot landscape astro at iso 100 🤔

simply not always possible to keep ISO at 100.... E.g. birds in flight, star photography...

If your camera is ISO-invariant then Auto ISO is probably the best bet. Of course, if you don't care about seeing the image on the back of your camera (example: landscape timelapse where you may want initial composition but then don't care about the rest of the image series), then shooting at ISO 100 and boosting in post will actually be better than using a high ISO since your dynamic range at ISO 100 is maximized.

How do you pronounce "NASA"?