My tablet quit in the middle of the comment just in case it looks like a duplicate. I read some of the comments and you received a lot of good tips. The dog house cooler may be a good item to consider. In the previous video I commented that I have a larger sump or oil pan. It was added by the fellow who built the engine prior to engine installation. By the way, your videos are excellent. Great diagrams and editing. Hang in there. Your bus is really beautiful.

Nice Bus!😊 Glad your friend helped you out - I recommend adding a correct bus crankshaft pulley (D stamping on pulley). The smaller aluminum pulley slows the fan speed and can increase engine heat. Original cooling parts work best - fan shroud, fan, cylinder tins, and rear plate. Best wishes and you will get it resolved 👍 Edit: A pulley change doesn't require engine removal making an easy test.

Nice job Toshi. Keep us updated

I noticed you have dual port heads in the pictures with the engine removed. If your engine has the oil cooler inside the fan housing then you could change the fan housing to the later remote oil cooler style with the remote oil cooler ( nick named the Dog House oil cooler). This remote style cooler gets the oil cooler out of the air flow to the number 3 cylinder and ducts the hot air from the oil cooler away from the that cylinder. Please consider getting additional gauges like engine oil pressure, oil temperature and cylinder head temperature. Also a handy tool to buy at Harbor Freight would be an Infrared Pyrometer. What ever surface you shine the laser on the tool will tell you the temperature. From underneath the engine you can shine the laser on the cylinder cooling fins for the number 2 & 4 cylinders. I also like to see how hot the exhaust headers are right at the heads. If you already have the dog house oil cooler and unobstructed air flow from the generator fan (no mouse nests!) then you should see if your oil pressure drops off when you are driving on the highway ( check main bearing clearances, the engine case expands with temperature causing a loss of oil pressure). Engine rebuild time. An easy check of crankshaft end play is to try moving the crankshaft fan belt pulley forward and backwards in the block. This is adjusted with shims behind the flywheel. Excessive end play could also tell it is time for a rebuild. Additionally if your air/fuel mixture is running lean or your ignition timing ( do you hear any pinging sounds?) is off, this can cause the engine to run hot. In my opinion the door lock extension is a mistake. Holding the door open will only introduce the hot air that just went through the cylinders that comes out from under the vehicle. The cooling fan will pull the recycled air right in. This reminds me to tell you to make sure the rubber gasket between the engine and the body is in perfect shape ( to stop the same recirculation). I wish my Dad had taken me to a VW car show! Very Cool! I am up in Massachusetts. Let me know how you make out with your really nice bus! G.

If I found that in Japan, I would buy it and leave it there, and stay there with it forever!

Yeah I didn’t want to be negative but I didn’t think that thing would work. I’ve never seen anyone with those and there is a good reason why. If you have high heat it’s probably because of a failure of some other part. The only way to know is to take out the engine and know the workings of your engine if you didn’t build it and install it then you will always be guessing. The only other thing could be the timing and gas air mixture but that has already been addressed I think by you. But it would still be good to know your engine condition anyways. It’s not that bad. Just be careful not to drop it on your face and invest in some tools for the job and you will be fine.

Great video again, I'm sure you will work the over heating out. Has the timing and mixture been adjusted? This can make a big difference with motor getting hot. Temp gauge is a must too ;)

You mentioned in an earlier video that your bus does not have heaters. The removal of the heaters means an important piece of engine shroud tin is missing on each side. It is the flat rectangular piece of tin the forces air from the fan horizontally across the cylinders. These may be the most important pieces of tin, as the cylinders are the hottest parts of the engine. It is imperative to get correct air flow across the cylinders. The engine is not cooled by conduction-it is cooled by convection. This means you need to move air across the hot surfaces at a high velocity. The tin shroud forces the air through a restricted area, which causes it to move quickly and remove the heat. You may need to fashion some custom pieces of tin since you removed the heaters. As far as the thermostat is concerned, it is acceptable to remove the thermostat. But you must retain the flaps and lock them in place such that they direct air correctly. Without the flaps the air from the fan is not passed over the engine to cool it. I have owned the same bus for 45 years. Four engine rebuilds. No thermostat, but I do have heaters with the correct tin and the flaps locked on place. Also a doghouse cooler as others have recommended. I doubt you need to disassemble your engine-it’s almost certainly about cooling it properly. Good luck.

The cooling vents on the side of the split bus can't keep up with larger than stock engines, dual carbs or those with doghouse systems. I removed the front tin (near the flywheel) and it helped add air to my '66 Bus. The back end of the bus presents a low pressure area that will recirculate the heated air (if the decklid is propped open) back into the engine, compromising the cooling system. Ganbatte kudasai!

Bad Idea. The aircool system ist based on a closed motorroom. With an open door, you loose the airflow to the Air cool vent at the engine.

Congratulations you just added to your overheating problem. Hot air from the exhaust exiting out the back will now be sucked into the engine compartment and recycle that hot air. This will accentuate the overheating of your engine even more. To fix your overheating problem you need to get back to basics. What is the compression ratio of that engine? This has more to do with overheating than most understand. If your within factory CR specs, then you can start looking at oil cooling as your next step to keep your motor within correct operating temperatures. As others have said, a doghouse oil cooler or an external oil cooler are your other alternatives. Additionally, you must make sure every seal is in place and there are no leaks, I’ll repeat again. Do not use the lid opening device you got from Japan it’s only gonna make your problem worse.

I like your 360 camera shots. Which camera do you have?

I think you should install a real temp gauge on your engine, I had one of those dipstick gauges in the past and it wasn't very accurate, and you don't know if it is low oil pressure or over temp. I will be in buffalo NY in March to celebrate my dad's 100th birthday but I would love to help you with your engine if we could figure out a way to meet.

Your overheating issue leaves me wondering if you are missing some engine tin or if something is installed incorrectly. Shop for some tools and buy an ATC/Motorcycle lift Jack from Harbor Freight. Drop the motor and find out if everything is correct on that thing. Pulling the engine isn't a real big deal, it just sounds scary but you'll find out that you can do this! Plus, it'll be a good Father/Son project. Being able to work on your VW is almost a necessity when it comes to Beetles and Busses.

お疲れ様です。 ロングフックで直らなくて残念です😢 動画を見てふと思ったのですが、ファンシュラウドの中に何か巻き込まれていませんか？ 雑巾一枚巻き込まれただけでオーバーヒートしますのでエンジンを下ろす前に確認してみても良いかもしれません。（既に確認されていたら失礼しました。） 早く原因の特定が出来て気持ちよくドライブ出来るようになるよう祈っています😊

You need a doghouse shroud and new oil cooler, the late model wide cooling fan, a 177mm stock crank pulley. fitting every tinware tight and how it needs to be. Dont install oil pressure boost plunjers, a higher oil pressure than the engine was designed for will bypass the oil cooler and you wil have very few oil going to the cooler. Upgrade your oil system with a new HD 26MM oil pump with in and outlet, instal an oil filter and maybe consider installing an external (extra) oil cooler with thermostat. Your engine oil on the highway is safe to reach a maximum of 125°c for as long as you want. 130-140°c for short time. Do you have an oil temp guage installed? How sure are you that that dipstick idiot light works correctly? I would not trust that thing.

残念でした、オイルサンプやオイルクーラーなどはどうなんですかね？いずれにしてもこの動画気になります

You might have mentioned it previously, but are you still running the stock-style thermostat system? If you are, it has louvers located at the bottom of the fan housing above the cylinders. If the thermostat isn't working properly, it might not be allowing those louvers to open as the engine warms up, blocking the flow of cooler air from being blown over the cylinders by the fan. I have owned MANY buses, and still have two of them. I completely remove the entire thermostat system, including the louvers in the fan housing so there is no chance of it failing and blocking much needed air from getting to my cylinders. Just a thought. Good luck!