I have one but when I cut on my rpm goes down so I cut on,off on,off,on rpm goes to normal, hassle also I notice it shuts down my computer so do above if this happens,also I notice on my positive post I have 4 wires hooked up how do I shut only the key ignition not the computer do you hook those 4 wires on positive post to switch to keep power to them I just want my key switch deactivated and radio with constant power,what's wrong

I believe I got everything wired on the positive side before connecting it to the negative battery terminal. It shouldn't make a big difference, though usually it's good practice to disconnect the negative terminal before doing wiring to prevent sparks & shorts.

​@@rednecklitegood presentation, but the only flaw is that if you have a video camera in the dash which plugs into obd2 port for power, itll be no power for the camera

Still works fine!

It's a good question, though there didn't seem to be much difference between the two. It's the rating for the max current that can pass through the switch, though hidden in the product description it also says it's rated for 360A of starting current (450A for the 250A rated one). I'd assume the 250 has heavier duty components. For my particular engine, the Ford 460 starter draws around 250A at start, then around 150A while cranking, which rises as the voltage drops for extended cranking. For smaller motors and/or more modern starters, the draw is probably less. You'd have to look up your own car's specs to see the max amperage draw of the starter, but I'd say for most applications 200A is probably enough, though the 250A version may be worth the extra $10 for peace of mind.

There is, but it's negligible. Nowhere near enough to drain a battery for a few months.

thanks -- that was the input I needed. I think this might be worth my trying!@@rednecklite

Yes!

Keep it on

Yes, still happy with it. I did have a problem recently where I was getting a voltage drop casing some hard starting- the battery terminal had come loose and I had to re-seat it and tighten all the terminals again. It's kind of a toss up- ideally I would use a negative cable that would screw directly into the cutoff switch and probably do some more discreet mounting, but if I'm going to go to all that trouble I would probably get something of higher quality. Were this my daily driver, I might opt to spend a little more money but for my purpose, preventing battery draw & fires in my classic car, it's fine.

@@rednecklite Interesting. Thank you for the follow up info! What would you suggest of higher quality? I’m willing to spend more if I need to. Mine will actually be used on my semi daily vehicle.

Or just shut ignition switch only down not the computer leave connected

Problem solved lol

like any other security system that runs 24/7 on a car it hardly pulls power

A pretty insignificant amount, yes. That's what the little red wire hooked to the positive terminal is for.

I actually tested this, it seems the cutoff does not function when the car is running. Couldn't tell you why...maybe above a certain amount of current it won't disengage.

Even if that happened, the car would remain running because the alternator provides the juice to keep it going.

Yup. The car I have it on has a 460 (7.5L) V8, so one of the bigger ones and it starts just fine.

Get another person have him listen to switch for click then you walk backwards away from car little at a time to see how far away you can go to use it ,learn your distance away from car to use it

@@reginaldlarry2962 I was looking for something remote honestly

It could, since cutting off the battery will cut off power to the computer, that could clear the OBD readiness monitors that require a few drive cycles to set for emissions. Not a problem for older cars, but I wouldn't use this with a newer OBD-ii (1996+) vehicle, especially if you need to pass emissions testing.

Pretty well, have had no problems so far. Even sitting for weeks there's no battery draw and it responds right away to the remote.

Soooo,What happened to showing how to intall?

Disconnecting the Battery like that, surely I'll have to reset my clock and stereo codes every time I come to start again

@@MrBurty5 That's correct, unless you have the radio/clock bypassed. This would likely be a better option for older cars without radio codes. Ultimately the "correct" solution for any parasitic drain is to figure out what the actual cause is and correct it.

@@rednecklite@ will it work for old 2000s silverados??

I suppose if you have enough room you could install the apparatus in a hidden location with some custom length battery cables. Good idea if your primary reason is for anti-theft!

It should not as long as the voltage regulator is functioning properly- most cars with an ECU/ECM should have an internally regulated alternator. That said, from my observations while the engine is running, the relay switch stays in the ON position, even if you click the OFF button on the remote.

Not pointless you could buy a faraday box or ouch and put your keys in it, blocks all signals