Thank you and good to hear. This was my very first KZfaq, by the way. And first and only take. I simply put the camera on the tripod and went for it. But seriously, I tried other ways to remove that glue before I figured out this way and this was the best by far. Glad it helped you.

Yes, always good to check on that. Mine had no asbestos. It's use was banned in home building materials 12 years prior to my home's construction.

Great idea, Kolin Ken, to heat up the broad knife with the heat gun. (I do recall now that my blade got really hot, too, from the proximity of the heat gun.) Really good idea, especially if using a wider blade. Thanks. JRR

Thanks, Stephen. Glad it helped.

Sounds like the best solution to me. Congratulations.

Thanks, Robert!

I wish you the best of luck. Persistence pays off. Thanks for checking in.

Good tip to try. And I agree the heat gun would likely be brutal in Texas (unless you were lucky enough to find a cool spell). Thanks for checking in.

Thank you, Catherine.

Glad to help, John.

Quite the contrary, this certainly contained asbestos. This was very bad idea.

You're very welcome.

zenonithus thanks, these videos will outlawed befor to long . Criminals

@KGB 1974 because it was a cheap way to make it stronger. they weren't fully aware of the effects back when these backings were being used.

Justin Vidal It should work really easy for your case of self sticking tiles because you don’t have to deal with the miserable glue I had to soften and remove. Good luck.

If you mean the 2.3-Amp Dremel tool, I would think so. Good luck with the job. I see other comments on other blades to use and I say try what works best for you. It might have gone faster for me if I tried wider blades. Now that it has been 2 1/2 years, I can reaffirm that it was well worth the effort doing it right: my floor is still perfect and it is really nice having the exact same level floor surface at the transition to the hallway and the dining room without any transition trim pieces.

John Renzi I got the 3.3 works great. but come to find out that my house has a partical board sub floor. but it did work on it though. I'll watching out for more videos. thank you!

+dragoness0420: It should. I'm guessing it would be easier for a concrete sub-floor because you're not concerned about splintering or gouging or burning any wood.

The answer is that it kind of works. The concrete will destroy the scraper attachment very quickly( like after 1% of the job haha). I did this job and it was absolutely miserable trying to remove the 40 year old linoleum off of concrete subfloor. I tried just about everything including the iron trick and this exact dremel scraping attachment. If I had to do the same job again this time around I would spend the money to rent a commercial concrete sander from Home Depot and just sand away. Use a window scraper to get the corners and under the cabinets and such. Then put down a layer of thinset to smooth it all out. This sounds like a lot of work but trust me it would be 100x faster.

@@chrisk3988 -- I know your pain! Doing the second area (laundry room) in my 40-y.o. house that has ugly old linoleum. I use the oscillating tool to get what I can, then soak the remaining glue with a weak solution of water and dishwashing soap, let it soak in then scrape.

Yep. It was tedious, alright. But the least painful of all options.

@@videocreationsbyjohnrenzi thanks. 👍

I laid tongue-in-groove engineered hardwood over it, and the elevation had to be exact to meet up with three other entrances. Plus, the old linoleum was not under the base cabinets and I installed my new cabinets in a slightly different location. ... Myriad reasons to remove the old linoleum entirely.

That's not true, sometimes i'ts super hard to scrape it with the scraper

Good question. I suppose my terminology is kind of like saying "Kleenex" vs. tissues. Or "Scotch Tape" vs. sellotape or sticky tape. Here is an interesting discussion from 'Resilient Flooring' by Matt Higgins, Issue 256 - December 2015/January 2016 "What's the Difference: Linoleum vs. Vinyl" Flooring options abound-even the options have options. But if you’re looking for inexpensive flooring, especially in a potentially wet area such as a kitchen or bathroom, you’re probably going to consider linoleum and vinyl. Although the terms are often used interchangeably, these materials are not the same. The mention of either sometimes conjures up images of second-rate products, but both have their place. Linoleum and vinyl fall into the category of resilient flooring. According to Michele Zelman of Armstrong, which makes flooring products out of both materials, to call a flooring material resilient means that it can restore its shape. If a heavy object were to land on it, the material wouldn’t necessarily be permanently dented. Linoleum is mostly, but not exclusively, limited to commercial applications. Vinyl is found in numerous residential and commercial applications. Both materials are available in sheets and in tiles.

+wantonjr1: Good question. Because I needed to keep the exact elevation of the floor so that when I installed the hardwood flooring to follow, it would exactly match the surface of the hardwood flooring in the adjoining hallway and dining room without any transition strips or step in thickness. Also, I happen to know that the 1/4" plywood (not luan) is also glued to a 1/2" plywood sub-floor. So it would be even more trouble removing the 1/4" plywood cleanly from the sub-floor. And there is no way that it would have made sense for me to tear out the floor down to the floor joists. Not only would that have been a bigger and messier job, but would add a whole new set of requirements and difficulties with flush cuts and re-supports/scabbing, etc., around the entire perimeter, including around closet walls, into the laundry room, and so on. Not to mention that with my method shown in the video, our kitchen and laundry room were still fully functional the entire job. And lastly, the original builder did a good job finishing off/filling dips at seams, knots, etc., of the 1/4" plywood with a quality wood filler and I was able to preserve all that without any harm done by my heat gun or scraper.

Very unusual to have glued down underlayment, but understand Thanks !

+metrowestdude Spyder scraper on a Sawzall.

Pro1er Hmmm. Thanks I'll look into that next time.

Not likely. Asbestos vinyl flooring was banned in the US in the late 1970's, with some old stock being installed as late as the early 1980's. This particular Amstrong product was not an asbestos product. If anyone has any question about whether a product contains Asbestos they can test a small piece with a test kit from Home Depot or contact the manufacturer.

Hey people. I own my own Asbestos abatement company here in colorado. I’ve been in this industry for 21 years. And the last 3 projects I’ve done had been linoleum. The only way to know if it is asbestos is to test it. Like the other message said. Preferably by a certified building inspector. I am actually sitting in containment struggling with the linoleum I am removing. It’s why I am watching the video. Asbestos was regulated in the United States in 1983. And if someone had a 100,000 sq ft. Warehouse full of asbestos material they can still sell it for use. Manufacturing was banned in ‘83. Not the use. Canada and Mexico still send asbestos containing material still in 2023 to the USA.