Thanks Ken

max98138 Thanks a lot

max98138 You have a nice channel. You should consider making a few videos. You will find it challenging a humbling too.

Thanks a lot Nemrit

+Kyler Kraus I works well. Thanks

Them mugs hurt especially them big twin cylinders

Thanks Darell Yes I have used the magnetron modules. They are a great thing. Thanks for the post. Appreciated as a great reminder.

+Ilian Stantchev Thanks a lot

Alan Marshall Usually there is a plastic-metal clip for the wire close to where the throttle cable mounts on the throttle assembly. I have also just added a $3 switch on the housing to ground out the wire.

You don't actually need to remove the points and condenser. (I get that you had to let the water out of yours, so you already had it apart.) They can normally be left in there as they're nonfunctional anymore. It won't hurt to leave them in.

Rust shouldn't effect the flywheel. You can wirebrush it.

You're welcome!

Good eye. I have not had any issues with removing the rod. I have just removed it on many machines. It fits in loose . Sorry for the delay I have had a bad internet connection for a bit.

Thanks for subbing.

Good choice

Well thanks a lot.

on the vintage stuff I still stick to points. But those B&S points are hard to set.

@Derrick Smiley I would check the valves. I don't know if your has compression release. That can lower it too.

@Derrick Smiley does it run OK.

@Derrick Smiley Yes i do.

Yes that wire goes to the switch that turns off the motor. It just grounds out the signal that allows the spark to generate.

I don't think so They are just coils for this motor. If you are think of the electrical term for a soaked coil no.

Yes Can you check the compression? Then here may be sticky valves or a valve adjustment. On these flat heads that means taking off about 5 thousands of an in of the valves. This means removing the length of the valve and grinding a VERY small amount of material from the ends of the valve. Don't panic. Do a valve clearance check first. This video although a Tecumseh may help kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n9WXgriTs6iRdo0.html Plus here is a chart on Briggs valve clearances. www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine%20Specifications%20Chart_ms3992.pdf Don't panic it is actually all very simple one step at a time. Before you start check all your gaskets for sealing. Lots of fun and lots to google. Enjoy the process.

Briggs aren't to bad. Their model # is near the date on the blower housing. I struggle with the rest though just like you..

Joe Wyatt your flywheel key is most likely sheared so replace it, even if it’s not sheared all the way

Thanks a lot.

Anything solid. You have to have a look. Sorry that is the best i can do.

Well this is what i found. (on Google) Briggs & Stratton 398811 Ignition Coil For 7-16 HP www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-398811-Ignition-Horizontal/dp/B0038U3LZU

Have you tried a new muffler? This is a canadian site but the info os there. www.partselect.ca/PS9014671-Husqvarna-532188655-Muffler.htm#pscomredirect

Just a suggestion, not trying to be a smartass, but you should use ear plugs, or noise-suppressing earmuffs

The vibration from the air chissel just released it. I got lucky. Thanks

I collect them from non running machines. I have a bag of Briggs. Another for Tecumseh etc.

+The Final Front Ear That wire comes off the coil and it goes to the shut off switch. The shut off switch grounds it and stop the spark ---turning off the motor. Thanks for being so thorough.

Sorry I have not. Most of the Honda's I see are already electronic.

Thanks

That is right. I remove the plunger for the points too.

OK

At 7:10 you will see the engine it came off.

I am sorry. This video was made 7 years ago. Your unit is a mower and this is a tiller. Try both directions is all i can say.

Well thanks a lot

Google is a big help as this coil came from my collection. I just googled this. Google rocks. I googled this for you. Ignition Coil for 5hp Briggs & Stratton and got www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-to-Eliminate-Points-5hp-Briggs-Stratton-397358-395491-298316-/300884372486

Thanks Jon

L Malino Gosh I would have to say I don't know. Size of the new coil is the key for me. Take the old one into a place where you can compare sizes.

+Bruce Pender Do you know whether the magnetron delivers a hotter spark? Are there any ancillary benefits other than fewer wires and not having to remove the flywheel? How about reliability vs standard? Thanks for any info.

Sometimes it is 10% 2 stroke oil and gas and sometimes it is just a 2 stroke mix from my gas can. Oops i confessed. Mostly it is 10% 2 stroke oil.

Do you use it to help start engines?

Yes I prime "or pour it in the carb" that helps to get some fuel into the system when it is dry.

Excellent, thank you for the info Bruce.

A regular ol business card. it is 10 thousands of an inch. You can google the distance required if needed.

@@BrucesShop Great video...could you say a couple words about how that gap adjustment is made? Are there adjusting screws?

Probably would. Th capacitor is the key. If the points are filed they are usually OK.

I just google ignition coil for Briggs 130212 and this can up www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/universal/440401

I use google Just now I googled this Briggs 5hp horizontal ignition coil and got this. You can do it too. This is a Canadian site but will go to the country you live. www.amazon.ca/HEPENG-695711-Lawn-Mower-Electronic-Ignition/dp/B098T9CQ1S/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgO2XBhCaARIsANrW2X3jJ1OKAxKOFO4tYXXiflPTW0z4lvpqb8VqEhspKY4hstt87BGIXvIaAoK5EALw_wcB&hvadid=605318956475&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001354&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17092071804565709207&hvtargid=kwd-316305313138&hydadcr=11242_13533814&keywords=briggs+and+stratton+5hp+coil&qid=1660709233&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

This may help Canadian site though, so google the numbers more. Mr. google is pretty smart. www.ebay.ca/itm/like/121992787321?chn=ps&chn=ps

No Not with an electronic magneto. Points yes.

@@BrucesShop shit really?? I'm thinking it has points but I did not take flywheel off yet... there is no kill switch, just a metal tab that you flip on to spark plug or off off spark plug, that is how it shuts down. I guess I'm going to have to take it all the way apart like you did? Thank you for the video 👍

So I have it apart and the wire from the points came off, assuming that was most of the problem. Now I need parts and to put it together. Can you help with this? I will set up PayPal only if you can walk me through what part to get and how to reassemble it 👍

just google coil for 5hp Briggs. Sorry i have more than 50 questions today

The have not had points since 1982 This one was one of the last engines with points 1981. All off them since have electronic coils.

It is not hard if you take 1 issues at a time. Not everything needs replacing. Go to you tube and enter each item. You will be surprised, Of course i don't have a machine with that many issues. It is most lilkey one of them.

@@BrucesShop Hi Bruce , thank you I will try that its a good idea . Thank you very much . I will let you know how it goes .

Yes I have 2 now. This is a really old video.

Just google Coil for 5Hp Briggs. You can do it. Here is what i got doing this. remember this is a Canadian Amazon site. do it on amazon.com www.amazon.ca/Briggs-Stratton-397358-Ignition-Horizontal/dp/B0038U3TKW

+MaxxFordham It is hard to show it all in 15 minutes. Sometimes I make 2 or 3 parts

LOL, Bruce Pender, how come you didn't know that even when you posted this video, the KZfaq had long-allowed videos that are much, much longer than 15 min.? Even then, though you thought there was still a 15-minute limit, why didn't you just start one of the screws at normal speed and then high-speed the rest just like you did on some of the other parts (while still figuring out a few other seconds here or there to shave off in order to make room, without leaving out the rest of those other samples)?

+MaxxFordham That takes 5 minutes.

And... your point is..., bser3973?

It id easy to find a new electronic coil. Just Google coil for horizontal Briggs 5HP engine. If you want the points version that may take a bit more looking.

@@BrucesShop thanks I try. Thire are so many different types.

Yes. The circumference of the flywheel and the bolt pattern have to match.

@@BrucesShop how did it start the first pull

I prefer the blues they are a bit thinner.

I prefer mittens, their warmer

If the coil fits there should be a connector on the coil to hook up the kill wire from the original machine. It should work. I have even wired in a switch lots to google

This is a great video for converting any points small engine to electronic. (not my video) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJ-IgcxertOpl2Q.html

Thanks for the reply Bruce. I am familiar with those modules and they are great on chainsaws as long as you can get air to them, they get very hot and burn up pretty easy, If you ever have to use one make sure to locate it so the flywheel is pulling air across it. People that have placed them under the flywheel say they burn up fast. Others have had issue if placed to close to a coil saying it interrupts it and causes it to miss fire, I don't know this to be true but it is coming from people that do a lot of modified chainsaws. I did find out that Tecumseh makes (or made) a 34443 coil that can be used to convert the older coils over to new electronic. An OEM is around $30 US and you can get knock offs for around half of that but after reading the reviews on the knock offs I think if I was going to replace mine I would just get the OEM and be done with it. I can't post a link but if you Amazon OEM tecumseh 34443 you can find it listed. My engine (H30) is purring like a kitten with it's points still in it and I don't know if I would bother with changing them out for what little I use an edger but wanted to know if I ever ran into something that I would use more.

Thanks for the info

Well the engine survived .

Well. If you mean you want to have a battery start. The flywheel has to have gears on it. Then you find a starter that will fit that size of motor and also the housing (rewind) has to have access for the starter to engage the geared flywheel.

@@BrucesShop tx, or else you can't get the high voltage across the spark plug I am gathering, still the flywheel must turn.

I am sorry I don't have it. This is a 4 year old video. perhaps it is 397358

That is it. I found the book that came with the tiller this engine was on. It had it listed there. Thank you.

It is still running . This was made in 2014

The timing may be off then Can you check the flywheel key?

@@BrucesShopthat's what i thought too. i did check the flywheel key to make sure and it was in the right spot. the engine hasnt run in years, so i put some gas into the spark plug hole and all i got was a slow fireball out the exaust. maybe i put too much in but i tried with some quick start into the intake and all that did was cause a fireball and sparks out the intake. didn't hear it fire once. i'm pretty lost at this point. note: my engine isn't the exact same as yours, in fact, i have no idea what year mine is cause i couldnt find anything from the serial

@@bmxscape I hate to say this but did you check the magnet on the flywheel or remove the cup and look at the flywheel key on the top of the crankshaft. I just sounds like the flywheel key is sheared. Is it at top dead center when the magnet is at the coil? If you are sure about the flywheel KEY not the flywheel you may have a internal timing issue.

@@BrucesShop i did just have the head off and had a look at piston position compared to the flywheel and coil and that seems fine. i did however notice that the intake valve is not seating properly and is possibly bent, which also explains why i have little compression and fire coming out the intake. hopefully its just a matter of putting new valves.. any chance you've had experience with that?

@@bmxscape Yes I ordered one on ebay. It was for a Tecumseh but same idea. Just use google a lot to get your numbers correct.

Make sure the balls go in half way through the assembly then the cover holds the balls It should ratchet then Then screw the ratchet back onto the shaft.

@@BrucesShop that one piece that slides onto the we're at grabs the ball bearings in the pull string pulls I can't put that back on the shaft

@@johnharkins2162 Wow I would take it apart an tr again.

dans la bobine

Well the flathead Briggs and Tecumseh's are great. I had a Tecumseh for 27 years and sold it in running condition. You just can't let them get low on oil.

Yes but They are gone right. Work is OK

Absolutely, didn't have ti remove fly wheel, just cut the wires

I have a shop also and I go the extra mile to do it right and oil the ball bearings in the starter clutch. Wow that was a lot of moisture in there Bruce ~!~!

Yes it must have been stored outside at one point EH!!!!

@@Budro4764 yep, make sure that starter clutch rolls freely

Well it wouldn't go without it.

Yes trimmer's are only worth doing if they are gummed up. Good work

You are right but it they aren't used I like to get them out of there. I agree with you but I am kid if OD sometimes. LOL

Coil in my vote :-)

True. i tend to remove them if it isn't a struggle.

Thanks i get it. Now I have all the actuall Briggs removal tools. This was filmed n 2014 6 years ago. I am there now.

@@BrucesShop I'm glad to hear that, it was some time ago but I love what I do with passion that most people take for granted. I applaud your enthusiastic approach I think people like you and I see the world a little different. Peace

beingsneaky gosh the tiller is now at my nieces house sorry

Cool

You are correct. i was just removing the unused parts.

Just removing stuff not required , that s all

OK I think I found it on a Canadian Amazon site but the number is what you want. www.amazon.ca/Stens-460-006-Ignition-Replaces-Stratton/dp/B001OKBE8W Most folks ask me for the electronic coil #. You must be restoring something.

Thanks

+Chevy Man Great Chevy!!!!