Renault 5 GT Turbo Restoration part 3. How to spray underneath a car, Tips, Tricks

Рет қаралды 9,077

Жыл бұрын

How to produce a quality lasting job from start to finish.
Blasting, etch priming, seam sealing, stonechip, and 2 pack top coat.
After the all the paint has hardened you can apply cavity wax and underseal should you wish and that would give superb longevity to the car.

Пікірлер: 45

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

Something I should have mentioned is that when you measure the paint viscosity it means you can have the correct flow rate for that particular day. I record what flow rate I used and what temperature the day was, this means that in winter or summer the results are the same. I have to add more thinner in the winter when temperatures are low and go above the recommended thinner stated in the data sheet, but usually keep to the recommended viscosity range. If your spray booth recirculates the air and can maintain a sensible temperature then this won't apply. If the paint is too thick you will have orange peel and paint runs at the same time and no matter how good a sprayer you are there's nothing you can do to avoid that. I have met several professional sprayers who don't measure the viscosity, perhaps they can do it by judgement alone but I bet they will have an off day now and then. Spraying is hard enough without the paint working against you.

@charlesloomis2224 Жыл бұрын

If Richard Attenborough narrated car restorations…this is what it would sound like. 😆😆 This is great stuff!! I’m restoring my 1967 MGB GT Mk1. This video will be invaluable!! Thank you!

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

😆 thanks Charlie, I like the Mk1 MGB's restored a few roadsters. Nicely made cars and not too bad to work on. What stage are you at ?

@charlesloomis2224 Жыл бұрын

@@bensclassicbodywork sitting in my garage while I collect body panels and knocking out all my other responsibilities before I can do what I want.

@woodyr5gt113 9 ай бұрын

Brilliant. Yours is in way better condition than mine. I had to put new floors new sills Omer and outer. New boot floor new rear chassis mounts.. that was 5yr ago it’s still on the spit in the garage now.. will return to it one day. It’s ready for building but fell out of love for it.. perhaps this will give me some inspiration

@bensclassicbodywork 9 ай бұрын

Sounds like you have done the hard work. You have to finish it, the enthusiasm will return once you get back into it. Ben

@johncurran3343 10 ай бұрын

Have my one 11years now and never drive it makes me want to get ot back out there Nice job mate

@bensclassicbodywork 10 ай бұрын

Thanks, glad it's motivated you to drive yours, go for it! 👍

@mustafaoshaughnessy3198 Жыл бұрын

Thanks Ben!

@quadtraxxx Жыл бұрын

BRILLIANT INTRO!! Another great and interesting video Ben! 👍👌

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

Thank you 😊

@freezatron Жыл бұрын

Your expertise and detailed approach never ceases to impress me !! :) I would love to able to go to these lengths with my Jazz but pulling my car apart to this degree is totally unrealistic. However getting a couple of jacks, pulling off two wheels at a time and doing one end of the car at a time I should be able to get the worst of it and do a halfway reasonable job with a wire brush, some rust converter (& Primer ?) then under seal.

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

Thank you 😊. Yes probably a bit overkill for a daily run around. 😆 The so called rust converter is always a good move. I would dispute it coverts anything but it does a better job at holding back the rust than just ordinary paint. Apply paint as well then Underseal and you've done the best you can without going to the extremes of restoring the underneath.

@freezatron Жыл бұрын

@@bensclassicbodywork .... it might be a bit overkill but it least the work is solid and it will last a lot longer. The few spots I've done thus far where I've used the rust converter seemed to have turn out really well and seems to have dealt with the porosity, I did use a wire brush to scrape the surface first.. and yes, I have some doubts weather it really is converting rust to steel too but it has definitely improved the quality of the surface.

@rickydub6950 11 ай бұрын

Awesome work. Amazing prep and calculation resulting in a better than factory result 😎👌

@bensclassicbodywork 11 ай бұрын

Wow, thanks so much. 😊

@user-oc5cn9tn4e Жыл бұрын

Epic job if u ask me looks spot on

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

Thanks Andy, appreciate it!

@mondeost220restorations9 9 ай бұрын

I wondered what the light brown tinge was after applying the hydrate 80 sometimes on clean steel. Now i know, thank you and well done for another excellent informative video. Keep up the good work. Mondeo man.😊

@bensclassicbodywork 9 ай бұрын

Hi Mondeo man and thanks. 😊👍 I still occasionally use a phosphating solution, it does the same thing if left on too long. The hydrate 80 I like only as a barrier to new rust formation if left in storage for a long time. Next car I paint underneath I might choose to skip the hydrate 80 stage and go straight to epoxy primer from sandblasting.

@mondeost220restorations9 9 ай бұрын

@@bensclassicbodywork I'm using hydrate 80 over larger area's where I'm unsure if I've removed all traces of rust (pitted areas etc previously treated with deox c). I'm presuming it's ok to epoxy primer (Novol) over these area's? Can't find a definitive answer apart from BH advise to use a quality primer. I ask because I agree with you about bare steel being a preferred key for primer coats

@bensclassicbodywork 9 ай бұрын

Epoxy has great adhesion properties but it's not an etch primer and a mechanical bond is required. If you sand the hydrate 80 with 80-180 grit paper that will ensure a great bond. You won't sand the pitted areas with paper so that will have the hydrate 80 left in place where its needed. I wouldn't rely on hydrate 80 on anything topside of the car because it's not a cure for rust. It just removes the oxygen for a temporary fix and the rust will return. If using underneath it's not so important as I would Underseal the car after painting. It will last a long time if doing this.

@mondeost220restorations9 9 ай бұрын

Hi again Ben would you also recommend a light sand in between primer and top coats when doing the underside painting?

@bensclassicbodywork 9 ай бұрын

@@mondeost220restorations9 Hi, there is no harm in abrading primer with fine scotchbright before top coats. It shouldn't be necessary because primers are porous but I would always recommend reading what the data sheet says on the products you are using. Data sheets are available online for every product and this is the data to go by.

@darrenhearn1365 Жыл бұрын

Nice job that Ben, you've got to have a bit of flow here and there I think....it shows you are trying !

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

😊 thanks. Yes I agree, perhaps there are people who can get a gun finish without a single run but I'm not one of them sadly.

@RW-bi2rp 11 ай бұрын

I can tell your a man of detail! but i can't understand why you would use a water based latex paint followed by a porous etch primer. IMHO the best method for long lasting corrosion protection(which classic car restoration is all about) is to brush on a couple of coats of marine grade epoxy primer, followed by anti stone chip paint, followed by a 2k topcoat or if you want to go a step further, topcoat with a flexible polyurethane (marine) topcoat.

@bensclassicbodywork 11 ай бұрын

Well, I am happy to be convinced that epoxy is the better way to go, perhaps it is. I've used it once before but it wasn't suitable for the purpose I wanted it. I use hydrate 80 as a rust preventative while the body is being worked on or in storage. It gets sanded off again before paint, except where it seeps into seams which can only be a good thing. I tried epoxy for this purpose and I decided to media blast it off again after finding rust underneath the paint. Hydrate 80 won't conceal rust but epoxy will and so to use it for storage isn't appropriate, unless you want to media blast it off again. Perhaps I'll change to epoxy over etch if it is a better paint type, of course once I'm happy all the rust is dealt with.

@RW-bi2rp 11 ай бұрын

@@bensclassicbodywork At the end of the day it's up to you what paints you use. But a simple way to understand it is, if the marine industry use epoxy it must be one of the best tried and tested methods there is for holding off corrosion , as they are in one of the most corrosive invironments.

@bensclassicbodywork 11 ай бұрын

Fair comment. 👍

@pbysome Жыл бұрын

Im not sure about the "rust converter" it seems to me to be water based pva which i would never paint over, it certainly goes hard in the pot so im torn with it. I certainly wish i wasnt. Very informative and helpful vid, thank you.

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

Thanks. The hydrate 80 I have been using for a long time as a rust preventative while in storage. I don't think that it would convert rust in anyway as advertised, so rust removal is the best way forwards on that front. I sand the vast majority of it off before painting but I've not had any trouble with adhesion, reaction or any other paint fault in the time I've spent spraying cars. A zinc rich primer might be an alternative to hydrate which I've used before but they are usually xylene based and extra care needs to be taken when applying stonechip. I had to take it all off and start again once as I put the first coat on too thick and it cracked everywhere.

@pbysome Жыл бұрын

@@bensclassicbodywork I do similar but I only apply it to pitted steel where I can't get corrosion from the pits I don't think clean metal needs it. When's the next episode on the Alfa? I used to have a triumph tbird 650 (bored to 750) running a dco 40 in a kneeler outfit full bore with it in my chest was an experience lol.

@bensclassicbodywork Жыл бұрын

You're right clean metal doesn't need it. Dcoe40? Never seen a motorbike with a sidedraught carburettor. Bet that sounded interesting

@pbysome Жыл бұрын

@@bensclassicbodywork loud (reverse megas)and slow, parallel port head from a later triumph, carb worked well though, probably the best thing on it 😂.

@PompeyMatt17 10 ай бұрын

I used POR15 on my Z3..and though I kept it wet for 20mins..I didn't wash it off..and like you've experienced, it turned a yellowy brown