Yeah I made this more for people who might be doing this as their first ever car job. Just can't stand when people get charged £20 or more for something so simple. The Ctek has done me well so far, 8 years. Only thing on mine is the button to change modes has got a bit sticky.

I would suggest taking a look through the Renault specific forums and seeing what issues others have reported. I've never come across this but plenty on the forums seem to have. Fixes have ranged from new columns or racks to broken springs, incorrect toe settings or worn track rod ends. Before condemning an expensive component I would definitely get a good look at everything.

@@SocketsAndSideburns Yeah, I've looked at a load of forums, seems like electric motor in the column is the most likely culprit as mechanically the steering/suspension all seem fine and the tyre wear and handling do not indicate a steering geometry fault. I'll wait and see what happens, it's perfectly driveable at the moment. If something totally packs up it might be easier to figure out what's wrong! Thanks for the reply.

Oh dear. Firstly what wattage is the heater? Lead acid batteries don't really hold much actual energy and you will run one flat VERY quickly. 12v at say 65ah means only 780wh and you don't want to be cycling a lead acid battery like that anyway not to mention you won't get much of the total capacity anyway before the starter won't turn. During this cold snap in the UK I've actually come up with concepts for two new videos regarding heating cars. One will cover a little trick for warming up MUCH faster on cold mornings. The other will be using power tool batteries with a small heater for people on lunch breaks ect that don't want to waste fuel needlessly idling the engine. Unfortunately I need to wait for the next cold spell to record. As for getting access, I've heard of the emergency keys not working before. Usually the key just spins if it is toast. If its stiff then perhaps its just the cold. May want to try waiting for the weather to warm up tomorrow or try a hairdryer on the lock. Failing that call a breakdown service (hoping your a member) and they should be able to use airbag to force the window and pull the handle.

@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanx for the prompt reply.🙏 Its a 12v 500 watt heater. Had to go work, ended up breaking the passenger rear quater window to gain access. Charged the battery using friends car. Now need a new rear quater window. 🤦‍♂️. Possibly its the cheapest option. Looking forward to your new vids🙂

Not necessarily. If the battery was so flat it needed a jump 20 mins isn't going to give it much help. Really it needs a real recharge on a charger before you can condemn it. Also there may be a parasitic draw on the battery or the alternator may not be charging it properly. Consider how old the battery is and whether it has been causing any trouble up to this point. If your unsure best to do some tests before changing it out when its actually still ok.

Most likely a misfire, does it stall out if you don't interfere and try to rev it up? Most common thing I've seen with them if they are really bad (engine looks like it wants to jump off it's mounts and car stalls) is the lambda sensor. I'd recommend looking at your live data thought to give you a direction.

It was real-time and I didn't touch it during the cut. I have done this job a lot, I will admit though that I was lucky getting the bolt in that quick.

it's much easier if you use a magnet like he suggested, especially if you do the last and first turn using a magnet stick, and then continue with a socket and wrench. And a powerful LED lamp also comes handy. Don't give up, it gets much easier second time around.