Vince is amazing! Discount Inboard Marine is awesome. Incredible service. Fantastic technical support. The really hard stuff goes to Vince. He has walked me through multiple repairs. Not surprised that his how to videos are the best on KZfaq.

Great video. Explained very well and the guy behind the camera did an awesome job. Wish more videos were like this!

Thank you sir. Lost track of all the videos I've watched of yours. All very helpful to me!!

I've got this to look forward to now my boat is out of the water. Thanks for the Video! :-)

Great instructions. Thank you, Vince!

Thank you for showing this. Much appreciated.

Thank you for an excellent explanation!

Thanks for the video. As with most things you just need someone to show you how to do it once and you can then do it your self. Mine is done now. Took me about 1/2 hour start to finish. Time to go to the lake : )

Great video! Thanks for sharing

GFO or GTU packing like the stuff shown, may last the life of the boat and may not even drip(at all) the traditional 1 to 2 drips per minute while turning. A couple of observations. There may have been room for one additional ring of packing, so long as the nut has enough threads of engagement. That would make for more adjustments and better sealing. Cutting the ends diagonal helps with a better seal. The end should be placed diagonal to the shaft when viewed down so the overlaps are squeezed when the nut compresses. The feathered end should be pointing in the same direction the nut is turned so the thin edge won’t bunch up. The ends of each ring should be staggered as shown. The two handed method may work fine, but when possible I have it lightly snugged. Then I adjust underway about a quarter to half turn from where it stops dripping. Then I periodically check to see if the nut is getting hot during the first 30 minutes of cruise. When installing it’s important to not introduce grit or dirt into the packing and have a clean smooth shaft. Very common to not need adjustment for years. Never use graphite containing packing on yellow metal shafts as severe anodic corrosion may happen.

Excellent video! Thank you for sharing. Going to replace rope seal today...Hopefully as 'easy' as it looks here.

Thank you for this video, you made this very easy to understand how to do this jod!

Fantastic video, thank you so much

Great video, thanks for taking the time. I wish an Ericson27 sailboat had such easy access to the packing nut 😅

Great vid wish all stern glands were like this 🇬🇧

Very helpful. Thanks a lot!

Great Explanation!

Same or similar to steam packing on large engines, good vid',

Thanks vince

No...THANK YOU SIR..It helps a lot..

Thank-you!!!

Thanks!!

Thank you.

Thank you for this great video and to the men and women who serve us in the armed forces 😋

Wil there be any dripping after replacing the packing you described?? That is a great video. Your knees are very durable all the best Neal Sw fla

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

can this be done in a marina or does it have to be on the hard

What size rope packing are you using? I see 1/4” and 1/2” sizes available and not sure which to use. I have same size nut & shaft as this video.

Are there bearings to replace?

Thank you for this video. I'm interested to see that there seems to be no way to inject stern-gland grease into the packing on this boat. Does it just run dry like that? Also, you have the boat out of the water, which is very convenient. I have a narrowboat (in the UK) and the packing system is identical to yours except that I have a grease injector on the wet side of the packing. When I do this job I don't usually have the boat out of the water, so the trick is to pack with grease so the stern tube is sealed, then replace the ropes without the boat sinking.

Hi I have the same system on my boat. Do you have to do anything with the rubber tube thing? That has two clips on it ? What is that Thanks Rob

hello you, I am from Vietnam I want to buy this gearbox ratio 1:1

New to boating so this may be a stupid question. Can this be done while in the water. Seems like water would want to rush in if i loosened it or maybe it just trickels in? Love the videos. Ive gotten a lot of help out of them.

I have a question. When the motor is of my seal drips 10 times per min. When do u need to change it.

hi Vince! I have a strange question, would this seal work on a driveshaft for a submarine?

So is it the packing which stops the water entering ? Sorry if thats a dumb question, I am trying to learn about these.

Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material. Free technical support (sealing, heat preservation, heat insulation, fire prevention problems) All products 1 piece can also be customized, 30 years of service experience, fast and safe shipping anywhere. 🎈

What size packing did you use 3/8 or 1/4?

It is supposed to leak a little bit in service to keep it cool.

What kind of drive is this? Just direct to propeller

👍

Is the boat in the water?

What size packing on 93 Malibu?

This is not a "dripless" box. It should drip 4 to 6 drips per minute or your drive shaft will get hot. Dripless are stainless steel against carbon fiber and are water cooled from a manifold drain or other supply point, without getting any water in the boat. I used to use 3 wraps of Gortex or G.T.U. Graphtex on these, now I usually talk them into dripless because they don't need to carry 2 1/4" wrenches and stress over how tight the packing nut should be. Thanks for the vid.

One must remember to check after running a few minutes while in the water, as well as again after a few hours in the water. A drip-less system is not meaning drip "free"... there should be with most setups 1 a few drips per minute. This ensures that there is flow for removing trapped air (a source of overheating) as well as helps with stainless corrosion of trapped stagnant water. Especially critical for saltwater. For those who only keep their boat in the water a day or two (weekend warriors :) ) then pull it to park on land, there could also be dry-out, which should be watched for... not super noticeable, but watch during new seal setting when returning to water next. Also, do not squeeze the glands so tight that it binds on the shaft, or you will add extra friction that will wear the shaft, cause heat and failure of gland packing and possibly of damage to shaft. Initially once 'hand tight' tighten only one flat of the nut at a time, until you set to one or two drips per minute range.

This is NOT what is known as a 'dripless' seal. In fact, packing type seals are intended to drip at a very slow rate while running to cool and aid lubrication of the packing. There is such a thing as a dripless shaft seal, but a packing gland type is not it. I object to the misinformation.

Sorry but if you are using packing then you are not working on a "dripless" shaft seal.

Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!