Thanks! After repair machine needs work and not peace ;)

Thanks!

Thanks for your feedback and share the knowledge ;) we need to improve the "repair" thinking in people :)

Yes these kind off defects are hard to find out, a lot can be wrong.. but just take it apart maybe it's a simple o-ring as it was in my case..

It's difficult to say without inspecting it. But K5 have metal housing so usually it cracks only if it was left in freezing yemperature.. it could be that high pressure seals were damaged. Oil seal shouldn't be affected by the temperature if it was not worn out before that... But if you bought it second hand I would overhaul it anyway.. change both seals, inspect oil and so on..

@@letsfixitgarage thought about it but that would be at least $150 in parts plus time put in. A new k2000 is only $249. If parts were cheaper I would try it for fun.

K2 whole head will be from plastic k5 if taken care should hold much longer but in the end you are the one who decides. And I tend to not count my own time on these projects or I wouldn't start them at all :))

Hi, it's quite some time when I repaired this model, usually I work with older models. but the three valves are inlet valves or high and low pressure valves don't remember correctly :) pressure valve is usually combined with the on/off switch. So according your description the pressure valve is getting stuck or jamed and needs cleaning. Usually this does the trick.

your welcome :)

It could be something similar as in this video. Some defective o-ring or similar that lets the pressure inside the pump from high pressure zone to the low pressure zone...

9:51 with my machine the triangular black plastic center core was torn. I had this exact same issue as you described

Difficult to say.. if it came out from the pressurewasher I would say it belongs in.. it's difficult for something unneeded to get in as it has an inlet filter..

⁠​⁠​⁠​⁠​⁠@@letsfixitgarageit happened to me: the cristal pipe was removed from the detergent holder ans the little plastic ball came out of this pipe. This ball acts as a one way valve for the detergent

Sorry long time ago had this repair, don't remember for sure, but I think simply pulling with pliers..

Don't know all the difference but all the time K4 kad pump housing from plastic K5 aluminium. So K5 is much more robust but both of them are afraid of frost. So k5 is more robust and usually has better value if you would decide to sell it.

You need to fill it so the plate would be covered in oil. It doesn't need to be full.

@@letsfixitgarageThank you very much for fast replay. I did as you said and I replaced old head part thats like in your video made from plastic but it was broken due to high pressure with new original part full alu from karcher and if doesnt fit correctly. Piston plastic has to much space beatween and cant even hold head and its leaking. I assume this piece is defective from factory when it was made they didnt pay attention to tolerances. Ill try to bring it back in official service where i bought it and try to replace. Hopefully they will accept this 🤞🏻

Good luck hope it will get sorted.. till now what I bought from Karcher it was always 100% fit. Strange what got wrong in your case..

it should come off by pulling another way is to open up the plastic case of controll board. it has wires with connectors that can be disconnected easily at that point.. although more work..

What do you mean with aluminium elbow? Would suggest to contact your Karcher Service Center at least in Europe they have all the original parts, schematic breakdowns and for quite reasonable prices..

Sunku pasakyti.. anksčiau slėgis buvo kontroliuojamas on/off principu kur viską reguliavo hidraulinis slėgio jungiklis su naujaisiais mažai susidūręs..

Oficial Karcher dealership they have all the part and with reasonable prices. At least here in Lithuania

Yes k5 traditionally has a metallic pump head. Although older models are full metal these new ones are with some kind of plastic moulding inside.. not sure regarding advantages (guessing that less buildup) and disadvantages of this design.. gues only time will tell. I would go with an older k5 less things to go bad.. but this one's really neat regarding low profile..

@@letsfixitgarage thanks for the update.

@@letsfixitgarage , no, there were two older models heads on K5, the first was with aluminium and black plastic molded on surface of aluminium to prevent corrosion and stone lime scale and the problem was that the high water pressure deformed black plastic cylinder walls from the outside to inward and narrowing the cylinder walls where the unloader by pass valve is moving (the same valve on your video where the rubber seal ring was broken), so the spring couldn't return the valve on high pressure position again and stuck on low pressure for detergent injecting. After some time of this often deforming problem, Karcher started to manufacture the mold of pure aluminium head without plastic. The deforming wall problem was solved, but there was a new problem that the pure aluminium is oxidizing so they return back to combination of aluminium with plastic mold corrosion protection with enhanced design such on your K5 full control plus. Forgot to mention the first design had inox unloader by pass valve and then when they started to make pure aluminium head to prevent galvanic corrosion between inox and aluminium, they started to produce of black plastic unloader by pass valve like on your video.

Thanks for detailed explanation! I worked on some pure aluminium ones like 520m and yes sometimes the buildup is crazy.. for that 7 series with bronze head is quite a thing.. And this was the first time I had opened a k5 with aluminium/plastic head so that's why the surprise :) thanks for explaining that there was even additional series of these plastic/metal heads..

@@letsfixitgarage , it seems I was wrong about your K5 full control head on video, it is pure aluminium I don't see black plastic layer cover protection, not even sure does it exist with black plastic layer K5 full control version, I just saw PDF animation version on spare part catalog. I have to order new head for my old K5 because I have this plastic deformation problem and unloader bypass valve is jamming so before buying the new one I have done in workshop inox sleeve 2 millimeter wall thicknes, grind the old black plastic defective walls for 2 millimeters and press the new inox sleeve in the head and of course bored small hole on the inox wall for bypass water channel . The problem with jamming unloader bypass valve was solved and the device was finally switching between high pressure and low pressure (detergent injecting) fine, but there was a new problem, the water pressure is now not so good as it used to be and when using rotating flow mode on the gun, the motor starts and stops every 1-2 seconds, it is pulsating when the gun is on. I disassembled my K5 again and the problem is in head, when I put my mouth on small triangle high pressure output channel and blow the air from my mouth I feel big resistance and output air where the gun hose should be connected is very bad and low when I normally clogged small holes with my fingers in unloader bypass valve and motor switch valve holes. I think the problem is in the workshop when they grinded the defective plastic wall something went wrong, the plastic collapsed even more somewhere inside head and clogged narrowing the passage water flow. This is early defective head design with plastic layer for K5: 9.037-277.0 then to eliminate this problem they redesign the head and made the pure aluminium head 9.001-800.0. The K5 full control head 9.002-463.0 and this I'll put on my old Karcher K5, when it works, I'll order other missing components to convert it to full control.

It depends how did it got reversed, after reassembly? But in general I think you are on the right track I remember watching a video in Russian language that was talking something about being careful with it, as it can reverse the +/- but didn't had problems on my own with it so don't know the procedure to get it right.. sorry..

@@letsfixitgarage I found the problèm is located to the push button with blue wire. an orange plastic part allows to maintain the pusher. The orange part has cracked and the button does not move in the axis anymore. The karcher is blocked on mix mode. Part number : 6.645-999.3 the part has been updated that’s not the same ;)

@@Glyphosatemax nice job! Sadly a lot of parts in the 5 series is being manufactured from plastic these days.. older k5 were more reliable..

Hi, got it from official Karcher dealer. Have to compliment Karcher for having amazing spare parts supply, is pricey, but for the luxury of repairing 10 year old machine it is totally worth it.

@@letsfixitgarage Thank you very much for your help

Jei gerai supratau snow foam yra antgalis, originalus ar neaiškus? Toks jausmas kad per didelis slėgis susidaro ir dėl to atsijungia ir prasideda pulsavimas.. pradžiai pabandyk kitą priedą, kad išsiaiškint ar aparatas ar priedas kaltas..

@@letsfixitgarage jaigu uždedu nuo karhcer k2 seno aparato kuri kažkada turėjau, tada veikia, bet jis putų visiškai mažai man pučia.. o jai uždedu ta nauja putų Putekli tada jis putų kaip ir daug man pučia bet pulsuoja visada vienodų ritmų.. net nežinau ką ir daryti... Ačiū tau

Na tada problema puteklyje.. ji ir reikia žiūrėti.. pažiūrėk ar galima reguliuoti tarpą ar dar ką ant puteklio.. jis sudaro per didelį pasipriešinimą ir dėl to kercheris atsijungia..

Don't remember but I think it was simple 10w40 or similar.. In principle you need lubrication where pins touch the swivel plate and no water inside :) and it will be fine..

I would first disassemble and clean complete pump unit. With all the pressure valves and so.. if you suspect the capacitor you can check it with a multimeter. It's +- limit is given on the capacitor.. one more thing to check is the motor bearings maybe they are at the end of their life and when it heats up it starts to vibrate.. not very likely but you never know..

Sorry I'm not a Karcher expert especially this new one.. this was my only experience with this new Karcher model..

Hi Ricardo, I have the same problem, it’s sucking air from chemical holder, When I turn my pressure washer on it’s pulsing on/off, did you find how to fix it?

Mine does exactly the same, took it Karcher, and judging from their response, they cannot identify the actual issue, except to say it could be the pump or the valves. Either way it may be cheaper to purchase another machine ... Not Karcher...

@@philip.aocallaghan4602 This problem is caused by a plastic bypass valve that gets stuck. Just detach the plastic pipe that connects pump head and motor cooling jacket (fastened to pump head with 3x 5mm hex head bolts) and pull out the valve (put the rod of the valve between vice or something, it is probably quite hard to pull it out). Then just grease the orings of the valve with thick silicone grease and put it all back together. The same valve you can see in this video at 20:52

@@madisselgis6827 Thank you so much..for this information and video. I will try this fix on my machine shortly.

Not really.. I bought it at authorized service center that doesn't have a e shop. so I can only suggest you to google schematics of your concrete model and in exploded view you will find Karcher order numbers for parts you need. And that's what I like about Karcher, they are not cheap but they have great spare parts warehouse even for older models. as example www.ereplacementparts.com/karcher-k5740-pressure-washer-parts-c-33388_33389_205806.html good luck!

Difficult to say but yes usually Karcher is quite sensitive to bad water. Any chance on getting filter to catch the sand?..

Send it to email or a link to it. letsfixitgarage@gmail.com