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Does the electricity go out and your computer shuts down because the no break no longer supports anything?
Does your no break never work?
On this occasion I will tell you that, in the cases that have touched me, 90% are left working with a battery change, here I present three different cases to diagnose when it is worth doing it. One, the most common, where the electricity barely goes out and everything goes off and two that do not work outright were damaged after the blackout that affected the Yucatan peninsula due to an accident involving a CFE employee who, by the way, never We did not know his name or his recovery
Let's start with this no break, its symptom is that it serves as a multi-contact only, since as soon as the electricity goes out the computer and the monitor it protects turn off, here we see that when disconnecting it from the 110Vac it works for a moment with a LED lamp of test that it consumes very little current, if it were higher the load would turn off immediately. Upon opening I discover that there is evidence that the battery has leaked acid and a terminal is sulfated. Before buying another battery, you have to use a test battery, it is important to see that it is of the same voltage. I did it and let it run for a while.
The battery, without load, measures well, let's see if it is lying, that is done with an incandescent car lamp, simply connect the multimeter and then the lamp, the voltage should drop slowly as in this case with my test battery. However, with the suspicious battery, the voltage jumps to less than 9V, which is its real voltage, and from there it begins to drop faster than the previous one, thus confirming that the battery is damaged.
It remains to test with the no break connected and off that if you charge the test battery, that is to say that the voltage goes up slowly and that it stops around 13.5 V if it exceeds 14V it will be over charging the battery and its useful life will be very short, you have to discard it. If all is well, we clean up the runoff, install a new battery, and test for proper function.
I repeat, this is the most common case of failure that we can find in a no break and as it was seen it is solved like this, so easy just by changing the battery.
The following case in a no break that never turns on with or without 110Vac voltage, here it begins by checking that the fuse is not blown, once it is done it opens and see what I found, the battery is as if it had melted due to overheating, it is incredibly deformed . As in the previous case, you have to connect a test battery and see if it is corrected. Fortunately, if it works, you just have to try removing the 110Vac line and see if it works for a while with something connected.
A new battery is put in, it is assembled and cleaned, this other one is also working with a new battery.
Now one more case that nothing works, I start by checking the fuse, it's fine, I disassemble it to measure and test the battery with a lamp and apparently it's fine, just because I don't let it, I connect the test battery and it doesn't react, in this case the problem is in the card.
Here I do not recommend you continue trying to repair this no break, it will take time which is money, find the element that is damaged, change it and test if there is no more damage, once the card is working and if it has already been used for more than a year It would also be advisable to change the battery, add those costs and you will see that it is almost equivalent to what a new one costs and that it will also have a guarantee.
With these cases you can diagnose and, if necessary, evaluate if it is convenient to change the battery to your no break, if you do, take into account taking the old battery to a recycling center where they take advantage of it.
No break = UPS = Uninterrupted power supply