You might want to replace the gasket seal around the top plate, thats where the water is seeping in.

Thankx yu saved me money nd time,this morning mytractir was stuck on reverse gear i decided to check on KZfaq nd yr video was there problem was fixed nd i continued with my business thank you Big thanks from South Africa.....♡

There is a breather cap to vent pressure buildup in the transmission! They let moisture in! The best way to clean it out is use a air powered solvent sprayer after you drain the fluid! We do it all the time in the shops I've worked in!

*As a youth, i got a 1948 Chevy 3/4 ton four-speed 218 six cylinder milk deliver truck, with an updraft carburetor. It hadn't been run for 20+ years. A super smart car parts store owner, who got me started on this, instructed me on how to get the brakes fixed and ready for me to drive it home. After getting it home, he instructed me to drain the engine crank case, transmission, and universal. Fill all of them with kerosene. With the back wheels up on blocks, is was to start the engine, put the transmission in gear and run it on idle for fifteen minutes, shifting up and down all the gears... let things cool down, and repeat once or twice as i had time. Drain everything again and repeat the entire process until the kerosene was clear (3x wash). Then refill the crank case, transmission, and universal. Run everything as above, washing everything (3x rinse) with cheap and proper engine, transmission, and universal oils. It worked to clean out all the gunk that had built up. It got a lot of rust out, too. Whether today there are better solvents to grab the rust, i do not know.*

Suggestion, no need to pull it all down. Buy some evaporust, a gallon should do. Poor it in the transmission, let it sit. Then use a good stiff nylon brush to knock off the rust. Do not use a steel brush as it will scratch the parts. Drain it and then use diesel fuel to rinse out any left over rust. Fill with fluid and definitely replace the top gasket. You have water seeping into the gear case. For any nay-sayers out there, I have done this on a different model tractor, but it works. Removing the gear box on one of the older tractors can be a pain and a real challenge. Good luck.

You tractor is probably 50ish years old. The transmissions on these old Fords are bulletproof, but the years have added some wear. The shifter will pop out of place on these tractors sometimes. Usually when the tractor is in a bind and you try to knock it out of gear real quickly. The rusty looking stuff comes from condensation that builds up inside of the gearbox. It will make the fluid very milky. It is ok for short term, but needs to be changed after it gets milky. The water in the milky fluid causes the rusty mess that gets caked on everything. From what it appears, your tractor went a long time needing a fluid change. Look for pitting. From what I can tell by your video, what you have seems to be more sludge than rust. You should clean the transmission housing where the shifter plate bolts on. Afterward, let the sealer dry before installing the shiftplate. This will allow you to pry the plate up if you need to without messing up the seal.

Water leaks down both shift levers past the rubber boots and into the transmission when the tractor is stored without a shelter over it. Sometimes so much water gets in that the dipstick will read well over full but in reality the bottom few inches will will be water with oil floating on top. Can cause the lower bearings to wear rapidly. This may have happened before you acquired it. I recommend draining the transmission and lift oil since I think they both mix. Then refill with the correct oil to the correct level. Actually the rusty surface is only on the non-contact parts and will not be cause for concern. The cause of the lock up is an accumulation of small amounts of wear in the shift mechanism. Replacing parts is about the only fix other than developing a "shift feel" to avoid the lock up. Also Store it out of the rain or at least cut the top off of a plastic jug large enough to cover the tops of both levers kind of like a rain shield but you gotta remember to put it on every time you put the tractor up.

Fix the gromit on the sensor cable going into the top of it 2, I did notice that there wasn't any type of seal on at all around the top plate, fix that now, b4 it totally gooses up your box dude

That is a fancy Chainsaw holder. Excellent video, thanks for sharing!

Put diesel in the transmission and drive around for 5 minutes, do that 2 or 3 times and it will be as good as new.

My Ford 2000 is currently sitting in the middle of the woods also from the same issue lol First light comes the wrench. My shifter is also fairly new but it's the cup in the transmission that's wore and causing the issues (kind of like yours from what I could see). As far as the rust goes, I've heard you can drain the oil and drop a few gallons of diesel to slosh around for a few minutes around the yard then drain that and put new oil in and it should clean it a bit. I'm getting ready to do that latter this week. I'll let you know how it goes.

I understand exactly where you were on this vid. Thanks for taking the time to film it. It can be frustrating to go through that process to with greasy hands and bruised knuckles. I’m in a similar boat with my broken spindle.

M'y 3000 , 16500hrs : FORD IS GOLD 💪👌👍❤️ SIMPLY THE BEST 👌❤️👍

My ford 3000 got stuck in Reverse and I am taking the top plate off tomorrow. This is the only video that I have found of taking off this top plate and whats underneath. Thanks.. This really helped.

Been there done it as well 135 massey im able to realign ours through the oil fill hole Check your shift boots for possible cracks damage from age could be causing water to get in.

Good Job buddy! I love figuring out stuff like that. Satisfying.

Thx you so much. My friend just got one just like yours and did the same thing and it worked I feel like a hero thx

Am going to say your probably going to have to take it all apart and do a good cleaning of everything thing in there and yes it will be a big job and maybe replace some bearings also

My thought is, take it to the shop, and let someone who is trained, clean it and maybe replace bearings and top seals!! Spend the money, do it right and you should not have any problems for many years!!! That 'ol Ford is worth it!!!

Drain all the transmission oil out, Then fill with diesel and brush all moving part we’re access is available leave for a day the flush and inspect after all diesel has been drained, Refill with new oil checking all known areas for water or perhaps could be condensation if oil hasn’t been drained recently.🇬🇧🇮🇪

Haha! The message on the repair vehicle is legendary.

Greetings from Ireland. Replace the rubbers at the end of the gear levers to seal out the rain. Wash out your transmission or gearbox with disel... Remove the gearbox lid and spray the rusty rods and linkages with wd 40...when replacing the gearbox lid. Use gasket sealer.

It looks like your getting water in around the top seal, just a guess tho. Cleaning the rust out probably would evolve tearing it down. BUT, that would definitely require that... THE DRIVER/MECHANIC HAVE PLENTY OF 🚜 G L O V E S !!!!!!!😁😁

Awesome sharing sir

The youtube channel Dan Grindel and Rachel Grindel has lots of information on rebuilding older tractors. They rebuilt tractors and do tutorials on fixing just about everything on older tractors. You might want to check them out.

What I have done in the past is fill the trans up with diese and drive it around for a few minutes but not to long.

I believe this is the issue I’m having with my Hyster. The post suggesting lifting the wheels so it can turn without a load might present a challenge. It’s 48,000 lbs. I don’t own a jack with that lift capacity.

I've been meaning to ask, did you build that contraption to haul logs out?

I would run a bead of silicone under the top plate then change the trans oil a few times in the next couple of months. You might be able to get an additive that will remove the rust - not sure.

Those old Fords are tough!

Water is traveling down the gear shifts and bypassing the rubber boots. Try keeping cover when storage. Drain and change gear oil with synthetic oil. Keep out of the weather

50 year old tractor and nothing lasts forever.I have old tractors and equipment as well and I simply drain,fill with diesel and operate to circulate/clean,drain,fill with oil and keep on going. Keeping water out is most important: equipment shed or a tarp when not in use. When cleaning the innards you have to be careful on what you use: some aggressive rust and scale cleaners will also attack the seals:opens up a big ol' can of worms when seals get compromised.

Drain whatever that is pretending to be gear oil, replace it with kerosine and use slightly for one day, the drain again, fill with automatic transmission oil for another day then drain and replace with gear oil, should clean it right out and get it back to service ! It will work!

Just used this to fix a ford 5900. Our clutch pin fell out. Couldn't stop at the end of the row and bump a tree on the left front. High and low lever would move, but the gear shifter would go only into 1 slot. The only gears were 4&8, which is the same slot. Took about an hour to fix, now everything is back working.

I have a late 50s Oliver that does the same thing. But mine only has 1 shaft on the shift plate to line up. Mine is nasty on the inside too. After years of this we replaced the old 40 hp with a new newholand 70 hp bucket tractor.

My suggestion is draining gear oil and refill with arf. It's still a lubricant but it's loaded with detergent for cleaning.

I am sure the rust issue must be fixed by now, but I would buy a couple of gallons of Automatic Transmission Fluid, then refill it with the correct fluid. the ATF really keeps gears clean. Also the gasket on the cover must be leaking, or there is another hole somewhere letting the water in.

I'm not sure about the rust issue. Looks like you have it sealed up pretty well now to stop water from getting in. I've had this issue with dads 2000 and I actually welded the tips of the shifters to build them up then ground it back to shape. Been working great for years now. Great video.

Should have placed some silicone around the plate to keep moisture and damp🇬🇧🇮🇪

thank you,,,

First find and fix the problem with the gears not wanting to stay engaged. Second drain clean and flush the trans box. Third refill with fresh fluid after step one and two. Obviously you are getting water in the box from either the boots and fittings in the shifter plate, plus some possible condensation, so seal those problems up and carry on.

Mine was jamming like that too. I found I had to weld some more metal onto bottom of the gear stick and re shape into the little square. It’s worn down so it will jam if a little heavy handed. It’s never done it again. This is gear stick not high/low.

The breather vent will pull in moist air on cooling and it will condense when the tractor cools. If you never work long hours under load the moisture will continue to collect. A high quality transmission oil will absorb more water but it will still require the heat of work to cook the water out. You move the spool shaft forward and back to shift the gears. If the lick on the hickory was a dead lick the weight of the gears and spool could have moved the gears and crossed them.

If it were mine I would Drain the old oil out take that top cover off and fill it up with diesel fuel. Do the same with the rear end. Let it soak a few days and drain it out good Some people say use acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid which may be better but diesel is cheaper. Just need to make sure you get it drained out good before putting fresh oil in it. Can’t guarantee it will work but it’s a cheap option to try

I replaced the gear shift cover and can't get the H/L shifter back in. It is in L which is all I run my tractor at anyway. Would love to know the trick to line up the H/L shifter.

if the rust sticks degrease it with something thats shaft seal friendly, no gasoline or paint thinner , then get some food grade citric acid from some bulk seller boil whater and add acid crystalls to dissolve, fill gearbox up leave it for a day... then open drain plug and pressure wash it out if necessaray you need to scrub off black rust residue ... towel dry the inside... maybe mist spray the gears with a bit of WD40 to prevent flash rust ... then get a butane or diesel heat cannon and heat the gearbox just enough so it dries out really well no hotter than that you can barely touch it ... reinstall cover and reseal with new gasket material , fill the gearbox with the appropriate oil , usually its 80W90 but you probably got something else since your tractor uses the gear oil for hydraulics as well

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID IS A GREAT CLEANSER.JUST FLUSH ALL THE CRAP OUT IT SHOULD WORK

I bogged mine down, and now it acts like it in gear when I try to start it back up? But my shifters are in neutral????

Fill it with diesel. Usually cleans up gearboxes and frees up seized ones

I had a similar problem out of my 8N ford and it was the detent ball and springs was worn. After I replace them it’s been fine ever since as far as the rust and stuff goes sadly it’s just needs to be torn apart and cleaned really good new gaskets and stuff and it should be fine. My 8N has about a inch of lord knows what at the bottom of it and just a good cleaning took care of it I try to keep my fluids changed out ones a year so that way the all stay fresh

PB Blaster in gal can, after draining oil, but put on stand and idle in all gears, after your satisfied, drain and fill it full of diesel fuel to flush out.

The biggest concern will be finding out where it's letting in water. That has to be corrected asap. To clean out the muck and rust, I would pop the cover, drain the trans, fill up a sprayer with diesel, and use that to wash it down and out. Would fill the trans with diesel and run it some with it jacked up so there is no load on the gears or bearings. Drain, and fill it a time or two to flush out as much as possible from the bearings. Then fill with recommended oil. Probably only run it for 5 or 10 hours at that point, then change the oil again. Good luck.

I would replace or make a seal. Use WD-40 and a wire brush and rags to clean the majority of the rust and sluge. Than add new lubricant to the mechanism. Its a quick fix presently instead of rebuilding it . good luck!!!!

We have the same problem with our 3000.

Where all that water comes from is your shifter boots are leaking. Any time I can I put two rubber boots inside of each other it helps. But as for that guuke build up when you get it hoe or on your way home if you have trailer load up wiuth the cover of and stop by the carwash and just blow that crap of the start over fresh with new oil. good luck, once you take the pressure washer to it take the air hose and blow it dry and clean. Brush and you gasket and seal and easy with the pressure washer on them.

Dont let the tractor sit outside. That is any equipments worst enemy. Change the gasket anytime you take off the top shift plate. Rinse with diesel fuel a few times

I have the same tractor. I wonder if water is getting in around the neutral safety switch where it goes through the cover that you took off. That switch doesn't work well on mine. You have to fiddle with the shifters to start the tractor and only 3 people on the planet know how to do it. It's kind of a anti-theft device.

Replace shifter boots, every time it rains water runs in, and good cleaning.

Hi dude, bad luck but it looks like a simple case of the seal around the top plate, if you look where it sits is the same colour of water and rust, as the sides going into the gear bay, I'm sure that's all it is, either buy a new seal, or clean it with solvent cleaner and lay a bead of normal sanitary silicone sealant around b4 you bolt it closed, that will seal it beget than a rubber or nylon seal, trust me I do it all the time.

For I left that spot I layed that tree down, I'd scrape away any debris that could dull the chain saw and cut that stump as close to the ground as possible and finish cutting it off so's nt to create hang ups or puncture a tire. Then I would get enough fluid to replace the fluid in their. Before draining, I would get some cleaning brushes and diesel and scrub it up as it will eat all the bearings in there. If you think that is nasty, wait till you see what you drain out. They are tough but not file tough and that is what is going on

This one snuck by me!

I notice you wear shirts with a Fire Dept. logo. Are you also a firefighter/lumberjack. LOL

I would replace the boots around the two shift levers. Water gets in through this point.

You need to get your butt down in there with a Dremel and plenty of wire brushes to clean that crap off of all of the connecting shafts, and then drain everything out every last ounce of liquid in there out of the case, wipe everything clean with fresh from the store tightly woven cotton rags, and then like everyone else said put a brand new gasket on that sucker after you completely wire brush the surface before putting the new gasket on. I would also recommend putting some Lucas Oil in that case to improve shifting run it for 30 or 40 hours and then siphon out all of the oil out of the case again wipe it all down again and then put in fresh new replacement oil and more Lucas Oil and then you should be good to go! If you follow these procedures your transmission should last a long time before you have to tear it down and replace things

Hay Wes I am by no means a tractor mechanic but I do know this. Oil and water will eventually destroy you gear box. Please flush it out immediacy and clean it as best you can. Does the transmission and differential share the same oil? If so the continued corrosion will destroy both. Good luck with your repair.

What fixes rust? a full transmission rebuild, sadly. Might be able to sandblast the gears and shafts for minimum cost, but that will cause things to loosen up a little. And definitely replace that top seal so it doesn't happen again!

i guess i should have watched the video to the end. bad tree nasty tree lol

I'd take that hickory down and use it for barbecue. It's a revenge kind of thing.

HEY MY TRACTOR IS STUCK ON THE LEFT SHIFTER ON 4 GRAR AND IN LOW GEAR ANY HELP ON HOW UNSTUCK IT ??

you could drain your fluid and put diesel fuel in instead that will get rid of most to the junk then you can either flush it with oil, diesel or you can just put oil back in.

please tell me you removed that small tree that is in your way.

Do not add any oil additives. Stick to the repair manual's recommended lubricants.

If it was me I would open the drain plug and buy me some purple power soak it real good then wash out with water till all rust is gone then blow dry with hair dryer replace drain plug fill to spec's Love your video's

I would say your getting water in the transmission maybe thru the old boot cushions or thru the top cover plate from not being resealed after removing it and replacing it over and over. Try parts cleaner and some good old fashioned scrubbing where you can with small steel brush and then drain that junk out of your transmission when your done and try sealing the top cover plate and make sure those rubber boots aren’t bad because dirt and debris can get inside your tranny that way. Good luck!

That is supposed to be full of Hydraulic fluid. My dad had one of those tractors and we poured it full of Hydraulic fluid. Your was dry?

The gromett around the White neutral safety switch

Take it all apart clean it and seal it up good( you will have to split the tractor)

The unit is not getting enough venting. I had this problem with my old David Brown 990. Solution came when I replaced the tractor. Apart from that you just have to replace transfer case oil more often. These old tractors also leak around the shifter seals.

M facing same prob with my Ford 3000 ,1975

whats the wires to coming out

To deal with rust, as in remove it, you would need to dismantle everything and physically remove it. That said, do an oil change on the trans. Fill it with Synthetic of correct viscosity. I don't know enough about the build of that tractor. If you have wet clutches etc then you can't go crazy with friction modifiers. For example, my Dad's JD1050 uses the trans as the hydraulic reservoir, so its hydraulic fluid. Period end of story. But, if it's just the transmission... you can also add some Marvel mystery oil - I'd say the same as for crank case - in the crankcase the carrier oil boils off from heat, in the trans it wont get that hot (we hope) so dont go crazy. And/or you can add Tufoil - this is ptfe teflon microbead additive which will impregnate the pores in the metal at the ware points. Yes, I add this to my vehicles and where I can differentials.and such and transmissions (I have to say my old "1st car" looked like hell, but you could shift it with 1 finger) anyway. All these additives will help break down gunk and varnish inside the linkages and help the by now well.worn metal gears mesh a little better. My guess is that the transmission, bull gears, and differential are all one big puddle of oil on that thing, and if you are getting rust and evidence of water up top, it's going to be all the way through. Check all.the seals on that top plate too. Good luck !!

When I get rust on anything I use a product called Ospho, google it and I think you'll like what you read. It's worked great for me !

drain all the oil out of it flush it out fill it all the way to the top with apple cider vinegar I let it sit for 3 days

i bet the bearings are shot with this much rust.

u May need to drain all The oil out of it and somehow wash it out with mineral spirits or somethin like that

you need aq new second/reverse fork installed, yours is shot.

Cricket would have fixed it the first time

flush it out and seal it water is getting in!!!

Seems you have had mistakes, accidents and crashes over the last several videos.

What you need is a complete teardown and cleaning with new seals and bearings....

Get a few gallons of WD40 and pour it in there and let it soak for a few days. then flush it out and add transmission fluid. You may need to emery cloths heavy areas. Use RTV to help sea the Lid. www.wd40.com/products/specialist here is a video showing how WD40 specialist removes rust. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pr2DZJymv5m6mXk.html

Iv got what look like lots cavitationin my transmission. Frothy bulbs. Any thoughts fellas

coca cola

You’re not serious are you?

The problem with this tractor is it’s a Ford.